oak knot- rope knot, tied by connecting two opposite ropes or cables, the running ends of which are folded in parallel and jointly tied with one of the musing knots.

It is used in very rare cases, if necessary, quickly tie two cables. To tie two cables with an oak knot, you need to fold their ends along together and, retreating from the edges of 15-20 centimeters, tie both ends with a simple knot as a whole. The connection with an oak knot on vegetable cables is quite reliable, but a tightly tightened knot is very difficult to untie. An oak knot is not suitable for tying synthetic cables or fishing line, as it slides on them. In addition, the oak knot significantly weakens the strength of the rope.

The oak knot has two variations: the simple oak knot and the oak figure eight knot.

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Literature

An excerpt characterizing the Oak Knot

“No, you can’t convince him like that for anything,” Anatole said, “wait, I’ll deceive him.” Listen, I'm betting with you, but tomorrow, and now we're all going to ***.
“Let's go,” Pierre shouted, “let's go! ... And we take Mishka with us ...
And he grabbed the bear, and, embracing and lifting him, began to circle with him around the room.

Prince Vasily fulfilled the promise given at the evening at Anna Pavlovna's to Princess Drubetskaya, who asked him about her only son Boris. He was reported to the sovereign, and, unlike others, he was transferred to the guards of the Semenovsky regiment as an ensign. But Boris was never appointed adjutant or under Kutuzov, despite all the troubles and intrigues of Anna Mikhailovna. Shortly after Anna Pavlovna's evening, Anna Mikhailovna returned to Moscow, directly to her wealthy relatives, the Rostovs, with whom she stayed in Moscow and with whom her adored Borenka, who had just been promoted to the army and immediately transferred to the guards warrant officers, was brought up and lived for years. The guards had already left Petersburg on August 10, and the son, who had remained in Moscow for uniforms, was supposed to catch up with her on the road to Radzivilov.

Sailors use it only in exceptional cases, when it becomes necessary to tie two cables very quickly. Although the connection of plant cables with an oak knot is quite reliable, it has a serious drawback: a tightly tightened knot is very difficult to untie later, especially if it gets wet. In addition, a cable tied in such a knot has less strength and, during operation, creates a danger of catching on something during its movement. Its only positive qualities are the speed with which it can be tied and reliability. To connect two cables, their ends must be folded lengthwise together and, stepping back 15-20 centimeters from the edges, tie both ends as one with a simple knot. Do not try to tie synthetic cables and fishing line with this knot: he crawls on them.

This is one of the oldest marine knots, which was used on ships to connect two cables, both thin and thick. In fact, this is the same figure eight, tied with two ends. There are two ways to knit this knot. First, make a figure eight at the end of one of the cables tied together. Towards the exit of the running end from it, enter the running end of the second cable and repeat figure 8, tied on the first cable. After that, grasping each two ends, left and right, evenly begin to tighten the knot, trying to keep its shape. For the final tightening of the knot, pull on the root ends of the cables (see figure). To connect two cables with a Flemish knot in the second way, put the running ends of the connected cables parallel to one another so that they touch each other approximately along the length of one meter. At this point, tie a figure eight with two cables folded together. In this case, you will have to carry around and thread into the loop along with the short running end of one of the cables and the long root. This is precisely the inconvenience of the second method of knitting the Flemish knot. The connection of two cables with a Flemish knot is considered very strong. This knot, even when tightly tightened, does not damage the cable, and is relatively easy to untie. In addition, it has excellent quality - does not slip and holds securely on synthetic fishing line.

No less durable is the connection of two cables with a water knot. To tie it, lay the ropes to be tied with their ends towards each other so that their ends run parallel and touch each other. Holding the running and root ends of two different cables in one hand, begin to knit an oak knot with them, but instead of one run-out of the root end, make two. Before finally tightening the knot, check that one pair of ends comes out of the loop from above, and the second from below, as shown in the diagram. The water unit is simple and reliable. In the Navy, it has not found wide application, because with strong traction it drags on so much that it is very difficult to untie it.

How much irony and disdain can be heard on the part of sailors towards this primitive and, unfortunately, knot that has firmly taken root in our life. That's exactly what sailors shouldn't do - tie this knot. A naval man who unluckily tied a woman's knot even on the shore will surely be ridiculed by his colleagues. Like, this is a shame for the fleet. But, alas, among land people this knot is a station wagon. The vast majority of people who are not familiar with rigging, or those who, by their profession, do not deal with ropes, ropes, or threads, use a woman’s knot in all cases when they need to tie, tie or tie something . It seems that people, having mastered this knot in childhood, believed in its utility so much that they don’t even want to hear about any other complex marine knots. Nevertheless, speaking seriously, this traitor knot in the entire history of mankind has done a lot of trouble and even claimed a lot of human lives. The Babi knot consists of two half-knots tied in series one above the other in the same direction. If he ties two ropes and pulls, then it is immediately clear that he begins to move along the rope, to slide along it. And if you tie it close to one of the connected ends of the rope, then when pulling it, it can slip and will certainly slip if the connected ropes are of different thicknesses. Unfortunately, not everyone knows about this and continues to use it. In our country, this knot got its name due to the fact that from time immemorial, women tied the ends of headscarves with it. Abroad, it is called "grandmother's", "stupid", "veal", "false", "salaga" knot. But, oddly enough, the woman's knot is used in their work by sailors and fishermen of some countries. In addition to his negative qualities (to slip and not be untied), they caught one of his positive property- under certain conditions, instantly turn into a simple bayonet - into one of the simplest and most reliable marine knots for securing a mooring vessel on the shore for a fell, bollard or mooring bollard. But in order to tie a simple bayonet when mooring, you need to get off the ship ashore and do it directly at the fell or put the end on the shore so that those on the shore do it. But it turns out that a simple bayonet can be tied to a bollard without leaving the ship ashore. And this is done with the help of a woman’s knot despised by sailors ... To do this, at the end of the cable, which they intend to bring ashore for fastening it with a simple bayonet around the fell, a loop is made, the running end of which is connected to the root end with a woman’s knot, which is not completely tightened. From the side of the ship, this loop is thrown onto the fell. When jerking at the root of the mooring line, the woman's knot turns into a simple bayonet.

Some people, tying two ropes together, somehow manage to tie a so-called "mother-in-law" knot, somewhat reminiscent of a woman. If at the latter the running ends come out of the knot on one side, then at the mother-in-law's knot they come out from different sides diagonally. The "mother-in-law" knot is as insidious as the woman's (if not more). It should never be used under any circumstances.

Archaeological finds indicate that the Egyptians used it about three thousand years before our era. The ancient Greeks and Romans called it Nodus Hercules - the Hercules or Hercules knot, because the mythical hero Hercules tied the front paws of the skin of the lion he had killed on his chest with it. The Romans used the straight knot to stitch wounds and heal broken bones. It consists of two half-knots, sequentially tied one on top of the other in different directions. This is the usual easiest way to knit it (Fig. a). Sailors, who have been using this knot since ancient times to tie cables, use a different knitting method (Fig. b). Weavers who use a straight knot to bind broken threads of yarn tie it in their own way, in a special way that is convenient for them (Fig. c). With heavy loads on the tied cables, as well as when the cables get wet, the straight knot is strongly tightened. How can a straight (reef) knot be untied, which is so tightened that it cannot be untied and will have to be cut. A straight knot, even wet and tightly tightened, is untied very simply, in 1 - 2 seconds. Tie a straight knot as shown in diagram (d). Take ends A and B in your left hand, and ends C and D in your right hand. Pull them strongly in different directions and tighten the knot as tight as possible. After that, take the root end A in your left hand (so that it does not slip out of the hand, make a couple of hoses around the palm). IN right hand take the running end B (it can also be wound around the palm of your hand.). Pull the ends sharply and strongly in different directions. Without releasing end A from your left hand, hold the rest of the knot in your fist with your right hand, holding it with your thumb and forefinger. Pull root end A to the left side - the knot is untied. The whole secret lies in the fact that when the ends of A and B are jerked in different directions, the straight knot turns into two half-bayonets and completely loses all its properties. It is also easily untied if you take the root end D in your right hand and pull the running end B strongly to the left. Only in this case, the end of G must then be pulled to the right, and the rest of the knot (half bayonets) to the left. When untying a straight knot in this way, remember that if you pulled the running end to the right, pull the root to the left and vice versa. When untying a straight knot, one should not forget that with what force it was tightened, it is necessary to pull one of its running ends with the same force.

At first glance, it almost does not differ from a direct knot and it seems that it is akin to it. But if you look closely, it becomes clear that the running ends of the thieves' knot come out of it diagonally. The thieves' knot, as well as the women's and mother-in-law's knots, are shown for clarity, to emphasize their similarity and difference with the direct knot. The use of these four nodes is not recommended, as they are unreliable for tying two cables. The origin of the name "thieves' knot" is curious. It appeared on English warships at the beginning of the 17th century. Theft of royal property and the theft of personal belongings of sailors on British ships were considered commonplace. In those years, the sailors of warships kept their simple belongings and food, mainly in the form of biscuits, in small canvas bags. The bag, of course, cannot be closed with a lock, it can only be tied. As a rule, sailors tied their personal bags with a straight knot. Thieves, mostly recruits who were not yet accustomed to the starvation of the ship's diet, having stolen other people's biscuits, could not properly tie the knot with which the bag was tied. They knitted something similar - a knot that the sailors began to call thieves. There is also a second version about the origin of this name: in order to prove the act of stealing from a bag, the owner deliberately tied a knot very similar to a straight one, and the thief, not paying attention to the trick, tied the robbed bag with a straight knot. But be that as it may, the origin of the node itself, like its name, is associated with the Fleet.

They are still used by surgeons to tie threads of ligatures to stop bleeding and to stitch tissues and skin together. Nowadays, medicine has not yet abandoned the use of knots, and doctors skillfully use them. During abdominal operations, surgeons have to suture catgut (a special material obtained from the mucous layer of the intestines of a ram or sheep), which resolves after 3-4 weeks. When tying, the catgut slides, and, making knots on it, surgeons use special clamps. During microsurgical operations, physicians use extremely thin suture material - a synthetic thread 10 to 200 times thinner than a human hair. It is possible to tie such a thread only with the help of special clamps under an operating microscope. These threads are used in the suturing of the walls of blood vessels, for example, in the replantation of fingers, in the suturing of individual nerve fibers. Basically, they use the woman's, straight, bleached, surgical knots and the so-called "constrictor" knot. When tying a surgical knot, first two half-knots are made one after the other with two ends, which are then pulled in different directions. Then they tie from above, but in the other direction, another half-knot. The result is a knot very similar to a straight knot. The principle of the knot is that the first two half-knots do not allow the two ends to disperse in different directions while another half-knot is knitted on top. It is convenient to use this knot when there is a need to pull off and tie some elastic bale or load with a rope, and the tightened first half of the knot on the rope, without releasing its ends with your hands, you have to press it with your knee.

It is very similar to the surgical knot, differing only in that instead of one second half-knot, it has two of them. It differs from its, if I may say, progenitor - a direct knot in that the running end of the cable is wrapped around the running end of another cable twice, after which the running ends lead towards each district and again run around them twice. In other words, there are two half-knots at the bottom and two half-knots at the top, but tied in the opposite direction. This gives it the advantage that when the rope is heavily loaded, it does not tighten as much as a straight knot and is easier to untie in the normal way.

It has long been considered one of the most reliable knots for tying cables of different thicknesses. They even tied anchor hemp ropes and mooring lines. Having eight weaves, the flat knot never tightens too much, does not creep and does not spoil the cable, since it does not have sharp bends, and the load on the cables is evenly distributed over the knot. After removing the load on the cable, this knot is easy to untie. The principle of a flat knot lies in its shape: it is really flat, and this makes it possible to choose the cables connected by it on the drums of capstans and windlasses, on the welps of which its shape does not interfere with the even overlap of subsequent hoses. In marine practice, there are two options for knitting this knot: a loose knot with tacking of its free running ends to the root or half-bayonets at their ends (a) and without such a tack, when the knot is tightened (b). A flat knot tied in the first way (in this form it is called a Josephine knot) on two cables of different thicknesses almost does not change its shape even with very high traction and is easily untied when the load is removed. The second knitting method is used for tying thinner than anchor ropes and mooring lines, cables, with the same or almost the same thickness. At the same time, it is recommended to first tighten the tied flat knot with your hands so that it does not twist with a sharp pull. After that, when a load is given to the connected cable, the knot crawls and twists for some time, but, having stopped, it holds firmly. It is untied without much effort by shifting the loops covering the root ends. As already mentioned, a flat knot has eight intersections of cables and, it would seem that it can be tied in different ways, there are 256 various options his tying. But practice shows that not every knot from this number, tied according to the principle of a flat knot (alternating intersection of opposite ends from under and over), will hold securely. Ninety percent of them are unreliable, and some are even dangerous for tying cables designed for strong traction. Its principle depends on changing the sequence of intersection of the connected cables in a flat knot, and it is enough to slightly change this order, as the knot receives other negative qualities. Before putting this knot into practice for any important business, you must first remember exactly its scheme and tie the cables exactly along it without any, even the most insignificant deviations. Only in this case, the flat knot will serve you faithfully and will not let you down. This marine knot is indispensable for tying two cables (even steel ones, on which a significant effort will be applied, for example, when pulling a heavy truck stuck in mud on half a wheel with a tractor).

In foreign rigging practice, this knot is considered one of the best knots for tying two large diameter cables. It is not very complicated in its scheme and is quite compact when tightened. It is most convenient to tie it if you first lay the running end of the cable in the form of a figure of the number 8 on top of the main one. After that, thread the elongated running end of the second cable into loops, pass it under the middle intersection of the figure-eight and bring it out over the second intersection of the first cable. Next, the running end of the second cable must be passed under the root end of the first cable and inserted into the figure-eight loop, as the arrow indicates. When the knot is tightened, the two running ends of both cables stick out in different directions. The dagger knot is easy to untie if one of the extreme loops is loosened.

Despite its name, this elementary node is quite reliable and can be heavily loaded. In addition, it is easily untied in the absence of traction. The principle of the knot is half-bayonets with other people's ends (a). Sometimes we have to tie two straps: or two ribbons, let's say the reins. For this purpose, the "herbal" knot is very convenient (b). It can be tied by changing a little "Teschin" knot or starting with half bayonets, as shown in diagram (a). When tightening the "grass" knot by the root ends, the knot twists and takes a different shape. When it is finally tightened, the two running ends look in the same direction.

Its name suggests that it is convenient for tying bags and bundles. It is simple, original and designed for quick knitting. The packet knot is somewhat reminiscent of a herbal knot. In terms of strength, it is not inferior to the latter.

In Russia, this knot has long had three names - forest, fishing and English. In England it is called English, in America it is called a river or water knot. It is a combination of two simple knots tied with running ends around other people's root ends. To tie two cables with a fishing knot, you need to put them towards each other and make a simple knot with one end, and pass the other end through its loop and around the root end of the other cable and also tie a simple knot. Then you need to move both loops towards each other so that they come together and tighten the knot. The fishing knot, despite its simplicity, can be fearlessly used to tie two cables of approximately the same thickness. With strong traction, it tightens so tightly that it is almost impossible to untie it. It is widely used by anglers for tying fishing line (not synthetic) and for attaching leashes to the fishing line.

This knot is considered one of the most reliable knots for tying synthetic fishing tackle. It has quite a lot of weaves, is symmetrical and relatively compact when tightened. With a certain skill, they can even tie the strings of the piano. To do this, the place of the string bundle must be carefully degreased and covered with shellac. The snake knot can be successfully used to tie two cables made of any material when a strong, reliable connection is required.

In weaving, there are about two dozen original knots for tying a broken thread of yarn and for connecting new coils. The main requirements imposed by the specifics of production on each weaving knot are the speed with which it can be tied, and the compactness of the knot, which ensures the free passage of the thread through the machine. Experienced weavers are truly virtuosos in knitting their ingenious knots. They tie a broken thread in just a second. They have to do it without stopping the machine. Almost all weaving knots are designed primarily for instant tying, so that in the event of a thread break, the weaving machines will continue to run smoothly. Some of the weaving knots are very similar to sea knots, but differ from the latter in the way they are tied. Some weaving knots have long been borrowed by sailors in their original form and serve them reliably. The weaving knot can be called the "brother" of the clew knot. The only difference is in the way it is tied and in the fact that the latter is tied into a krengels or sail fire, while the weaving knot is knitted with two cables. The principle of the weaving knot is considered classical. Truly this is the embodiment of reliability and simplicity.

This knot is similar to weaving in its principle. The only difference is that in a knotted knot, the running ends look in different directions - this is very important when tying yarn threads. Neither in simplicity nor in strength is it inferior to a weaving knot and is just as quickly tied. This knot is also famous for the fact that on its basis you can tie the "king of knots" - the gazebo knot.

It got its name from the word "sheet" - a tackle that is controlled by a sail, stretching its one lower corner, if it is oblique, and simultaneously for two, if it is straight and suspended from the yard. Sheets are named after the sail they are attached to. For example, the fore-sheet and the main-sheet are tackles with which the lower sails are set - the fore and main, respectively. Mars-sheets serve to set the topsails, jib-sheets pull back the clew of the jib, and the fore-staysail-sheets pull back the clew of the fore-stay, etc. In the sailing fleet, this knot was used when it was necessary to tie the tackle into the fire of the sail, in the middle, such as, for example, mars-foxle-sheet. The clew knot is simple and very easy to untie, but it fully justifies its purpose - it securely holds the sheet in the crank of the sail. Strongly tightening, it does not spoil the cable. The principle of this knot is that the thin running end passes under the main end and, when pulled, is pressed by it in a loop formed by a thicker cable. When using a clew knot, you should always remember that it holds securely only when traction is applied to the cable. This knot is knitted in almost the same way as a straight one, but its running end is passed not next to the main one, but under it. A clew knot is best used for attaching a cable to a finished loop, krengels or thimble. It is not recommended to use a clew knot on a synthetic rope, as it slips and can spill out of the loop. For greater reliability, the clew knot is knitted with a hose. In this case, it looks like a bramshkot knot; the difference is that his hose is made higher than the loop on the root of the cable around the splash. The clew knot is an integral element of some types of braided fishing nets.

As well as the clew knot, it got its name from the name of the tackle - the bramsheet, which is used to stretch the clew knots of the lower edge of the straight sail when setting the bramsails. If single sheets of the lower sails are tied with a clew knot, then bram-sheets and bom-bram-sheets, bram-halyards and bom-bram-halyards, as well as bram-gits are tied with a clew knot. The clew knot is more reliable than the clew knot, because it does not immediately untie when the pull on the cable stops. It differs from the clew knot in that the loop (or krengels) is surrounded by the running end not once, but twice, and also passed under the root end twice. In the days of the sailing fleet, the bramshkot knot was widely used when working with gear. It was used when it was necessary to take some tackle with the end into the fire, for example, bram-sheets and bram-gits. Usually they tied bram-gintsy into bram-fal and gintsy into topenant of the lower yards. Bramshkotovy knot is also reliable for tying two cables of different thicknesses. It holds well on synthetic cables of equal thickness.

In marine practice, it often becomes necessary to attach a much thinner cable compared to it to a thick rope. Such a need always exists during the mooring of the vessel to the berth, when one or several mooring lines must be supplied from the deck. There are several ways to attach the throwing line to a mooring line that does not have fire, but the most common of them is the use of a docker knot. To tie this knot, the running end of the thick cable to which you intend to attach the thin cable must be folded in half. Insert a thin cable into the loop formed from below, make one run around the root of the thick cable, pass it under the thin cable, then over the running end of the thick cable and, passing under three cables, insert it into the loop. The docker knot is reliable enough to pull out (or lift onto the deck from the shore) a heavy mooring line with a throwing end, and quickly unties. It is best used as a temporary knot.

It seems strange that this wonderful knot, long known to furriers, has so far gone unnoticed by sailors. His scheme speaks for itself. It is relatively simple, has fairly crossed ends, and is compact. In addition, the furrier knot has an excellent property: designed for strong traction, it tightens tightly, but without special work unties. This knot can be successfully used for tying synthetic cables and fishing lines.

This knot, although not widely used in the fleet, is also among the original and reliable knots for tying cables. It is unique in that, with a very simple interlacing of each end separately, it holds tightly with very strong traction and, moreover, it is very easy to untie after removing the load on the cable - just move any of the loops along the corresponding root end and the knot immediately crumbles. It does not slip on synthetic fishing line and can be successfully used by anglers.

In our time, to invent a new knot is an almost unbelievable thing, since no more than 500 of them have been invented in five millennia. Therefore, it is no coincidence that the invention of a new knot by the English retired doctor Edward Hunter in 1979 caused a kind of sensation in the maritime circles of many countries. British patent experts, issuing Haiter a patent for his invention, recognized that the node is really new. Moreover, it holds perfectly on all cables, including the thinnest synthetic lines. In essence, the hunting knot is a successful interlacing of two simple knots tied at the ends of the cables. Dr. Hunter did not pursue the goal of inventing a new knot, but tied it quite by accident. Since the name Hunter in English means "hunter", we called this knot a hunting knot.

In mountaineering oak knot used when it is necessary to quickly tie two ropes, for example, to organize a self-reset on an rappel. But there is one serious drawback: a tightly tightened oak knot, when wet, is very difficult to untie later. The positive qualities of this knot are the speed with which it can be tied and reliability. To connect two ropes, their ends must be folded lengthwise together and, stepping back 30-50 centimeters from the edges, tie both ends as one with a simple knot.

Usage

An oak knot is used to connect two ropes. It is used in mountaineering and rock climbing and also has many everyday uses as it is one of the easiest knots. Despite the name given by the Americans as the "European knot of death", the oak knot is good to use in mountaineering for rappelling. The knot is offset from the axis of tension, allowing it to slide over rough surfaces more easily than other knots. Along with its small size, the knot allows you to stretch the rope and reduce the chance of it getting stuck on ledges, cracks or descenders.

oak knot

A rope caught when yanked off is a serious threat to climbers, so these advantages, combined with the ease of tying, have led to the widespread adoption of the oak knot. Some sources recommend the knot to be used, but with the caveats of leaving very long ends (more than half a meter), carefully tying and fully tightening the knot by pulling on each of the four ends, and then subjecting the knot to only moderate trigger loads.

• Tie the ropes oak knot. It's fast and safe.

To oak knot was safe, leave the ends 30–50 cm long.

Which knot is stronger?

In Black Diamond laboratories, the nodes were checked for rupture and posted the following table:

- The oak knot is the weakest!

In general, yes. But I don’t know how to create a load on the rope of one and a half tons during the descent. Yes, in a knot the rope loses some of its strength, but not critically.

Please note that the table also contains numbers for ropes of different diameters (10.2 mm and 8.1 mm). On the other hand, Bob Gaines in the book The AMGA Single Pitch Manual does not recommend using an oak knot for tying ropes with a significant difference in diameter, such as 11mm and 7mm. True, without reference to research.

Ready-to-use oak knot

Tom Moyer took a series of measurements with different knots, ropes and slings. We have selected data comparing the oak knot and the "oak" eight:

Knot	How tied
	The strands in the knot are parallel and each is tightened separately		635, 879, 902, 938
		The rope broke in a knot
	The strands are parallel, but not tightened		485, 508, 666, 848, 907
		The rope broke in a knot

To tie ropes for descent is faster and more convenient with an oak knot.

- Why them? I like grapevine!

• Firstly, because with sufficient strength, it knits much faster. For example, when I was preparing this article, I slowly tied a grapevine in 33 seconds, and oak in 14. In thick mittens, I spent 48 seconds on grapevine, and 13 on oak.
• Secondly, unlike the grapevine or the counter-eight, it does not have ends that stick out along the rope. When you drag a knot through an inflection or bushes, these ends tend to get stuck.

When you knit any knot, remember:

• tie the knot carefully, otherwise it will be weaker (see table below)
• long enough ends should come out of the knot (10 rope diameters, but in the case of oak - more)
• a knot tied with wet/icy/dirty rope will withstand less load

From the Editor:

To keep the oak knot secure, leave the ends 30–50 cm long.

Some people find it unreliable. They can be understood: after an intricate grapevine, an oncoming eight or (do not read children!) Two eights, tied with a carabiner, the oak knot looks too simple and unsafe. However, tests say otherwise.

Which knot is stronger?

In the Black Diamond laboratories, the knots were checked for rupture and posted the following table on Rock'n'Ice:

-Aha! Oak is the weakest!

In general, yes. But I don’t know how to create a load on the rope of one and a half tons during the descent. Yes, in a knot the rope loses some of its strength, but not critically.

- Well, what if he gets untied?

Tom Moyer took a series of measurements with different knots, ropes and slings. Follow the link there is a large table. I chose the comparison data of the oak and the "oak" eight:

- Wait, what kind of "Oak" eight appeared?

Sometimes people “for greater safety” do not knit a conductor, but a figure eight. As can be seen from the table, it creeps at lower loads.

From the Editor:

Never use the "oak" eight for tying ropes!

And this is how (with a load above 600 kg) an oak knot creeps:

That is why it is important to leave the ends long enough. But, I repeat, when descending, you will not be able to load the rope with such force.

If you're paranoid and think you ate too much at breakfast, tie another knot at the remaining ends. With it, the knot will not move anywhere:

In all other cases, for tying ropes, the most durable knot is grapevine.

From the Editor:

When working with rope, always tie knots at the ends. When descending without them, you can pass the end of the rope. And on the rocks, drop your partner, missing the end of the rope. Get in the habit of knitting a knot.