In just 7 tr and 90 minutes, Aeroflot delivers your body to Murmansk, and there is a little more and PROVENCE the village of Teriberka on the seashore.

We checked out the new terminal D at Sheremetyevo. Looks and works almost like a normal European one. However, there is nothing stronger than a Martini in bars!

And on TV before landing they show all sorts of horror stories about Russian planes

On approach, looking under the wing was not particularly inspiring: in Moscow, the grass is green, the leaves on the trees have opened. In Murmansk on May 5, 2011 it was like this:

Murmansk met us with wonderful weather: bright sun, no wind. Aborigines flying in astrakhan fur coats caused our bewilderment.

But it was just a subtle marketing move by the Murmansk weather. How good it was on May 5th, it was just as bad on May 10th, when we returned. Our escorts, when they had already left on the asphalt, crossed themselves and stated: they would have left an hour later, it’s not a fact that the combat loaf could break through the snow barriers.

Now in detail about the purpose of our spring trip. Village Teriberka. All-knowing Wikipedia says:

The first mention of the camp of Teriberka refers, approximately, to 1523. Eyewitnesses of those times already confirm the appearance of permanent Russian settlers. At the end of the 19th century, there was already a fairly developed settlement here: there was a church, a lighthouse, a hydrometeorological station (the first on the Murmansk coast).

Even earlier, the Great Petrovsky Expedition worked here, as evidenced by the geographical names of these places: Deploransky Cape, Zavalishina Bay and others.

At the beginning of the 20th century, cod and shark fisheries were quite developed in Teriberka (the Norwegians were mainly engaged in having their trading post and shop here), there was a rather active cod trade. At the end of the 20s of the XX century, the first collective farm was organized, which, in addition to fishing shnyaks, had its own dairy farm and a reindeer herd.

There are two hydroelectric power stations (this is not a joke of the Hydro Power Plant). Upper and Lower hydroelectric power stations. In Teriberka, Gazprom was going to build a plant to liquefy gas from the Shtokman field. But the local population said a firm NO to the plans of the imperialists of the national property. Gazprom will have to build a plant a little far from the proud Tiriberka.

Transfer airport-hotel was filled with unforgettable experiences and adventures.

Fishing fees

Fishing in the Barents Sea, this is not a paid pond in the suburbs, not once. Grown men in a boat on the waves shout "M-A-M-A" and a bunch of other things. Flying in an airplane in turbulence is a cheap children's party compared to fishing in the Barents Sea. The picture shows a set of a fisherman: weights of half a kilo (otherwise the wind blows the boat and you can’t reach the bottom), a reel with 300 m of braid (a hundred meters to the bottom, until you pull the fish out of sweat and change your hand a couple of times), a waterproof box with documents (each exit to the sea presenting the personnel to the border guards because the border zone and the enemy are not asleep), the rod is only one and a half meters long, but with rollers instead of rings.

Teriberka is home to brown trout, pike, perch, whitefish, burbot, minnow, and occasionally char. But this was not enough for a man, and he decided to help nature: he spread a peled. If earlier the main prey of the fisherman was trout for the whole season, now until mid-July (so far big water) brown trout is an infrequent trophy. But when the water subsides, the peled apparently goes to the stretches, and after a while, the trout begins to appear. Peled has a silvery color with rare dark spots, reaches 3.5 kg. In Teriberka, fish are mainly caught up to 1 kg, and immediately after the flood, large fish predominate in the catches.

We set off on our journey from the bridge on Ivolga double rubber boats. We are me and my constant partner and like-minded person Oleg Volkov. We had to make a journey of about 30 km along the river with two or three drifts of the most powerful rapids.

Rod setup. We take two at once: one with a dry fly, the other with a wet fly.

We caught with glass floats, which we made ourselves, as well as flies. I tied a dry fly in front of a float of 1.5-1.8 m, a leash of 20 cm; wet - to the main line at the same distance behind the float. Spinning rods were 2.7 m long and with a test of 10-40 g. On the first casts, only a trifle of 200-300 g pecked.

I chose a place where two boulders stood closer to my bank, about a couple of meters apart along the current, and there was a lull between them, while the water roared swiftly in the middle of the river.

Dropped a dry fly. As soon as the bait entered calm water, a very large trout jumped out from under the stone. Curving in the air and showing her bronze side, she flopped into the water. I have never seen such a fish!

Continued casting. The brown trout went out for the fly two more times, but she never took it. He decided that he needed to stop, give her a rest and calm down himself.

Put another fly and tried to spend it in the same place. At the opposite end of the tackle, I distinctly felt the beating of the fish, but ... only a 400-gram trout appeared on the shore. Fatigue took its toll, which means it's time to go to the camp, cook the fish soup and sleep.

Three days later we moved on. Having set up a new camp, they dispersed to their favorite places. The wind died down and we switched to fly fishing. One of the evenings
having crossed over to the other side, they left the boat on a large flat stone, and part of the boat was in the water.

Having run along the river until dusk, I returned to the place of our landing, my partner was not there yet. Threw a wet fly across the current. There were no bites. I had already lifted the float above the water, when suddenly a shadow flashed from under the boat, and a 400-gram trout was firmly hooked. Five more fish were caught in the same way. It turned out that he had been fighting with a biting fish for half an hour, calling me, but because of the noise of the threshold, I did not hear him. I took his landing net, but I couldn't see anything in the dark water. Finally, the brown trout approached the shore, its silvery side flashed, and soon it was in the landing net. Her weight was 2.2 kg.

The next day we had to pack, rafting down the river, then we had to go along the reservoir to the confluence of the Kiyavryok river, then about an hour to the road where the car was waiting for us. But we did not want to part with our beloved river... We sat by the fire for a long time and made plans for future trips to Teriberka. This river calls to itself again and again.

Once again I ended up in the now famous Teriberka. For a long time there are plans to wander here in winter season, however, so far it is not very successful. And this time I went there for a different reason, so there was no time to go around the neighborhood. And in connection with the well-known events, you can now find a lot of photographs of the village itself and reports about it. We went there to try the so-called sea fishing - to catch cod on a spinning rod in the almost open sea.

We left Kirovsk in normal sunny weather, and after the exit to the Teriberka lapel, we got into such ...

True, in the tundra (almost at the local power plants) the weather improved a little, which cheered up: in bad weather, you can’t go to sea. How gravely wrong I was! :)))
On the way we saw a whole crowd of kiters "bathing" in a good north wind. They lived in the same hotel as we - right in the local "port" (by the way, surprisingly, a very pleasant, comfortable and reasonably priced place - I noted to myself for the future).

We arrived already dark, settled down, went to the sauna there. We attended a slightly pretentious, and similar to the session of "Alcoholics Anonymous" evening meeting of kiters. In my opinion, the same style is very laboriously copied and looks unnatural. Again, as we thought. Anyway. We went to our place and hung out until late at night.

And in the morning, having had breakfast in a nice dining room of the hotel and having gathered, they stomped to load on the boat.

Now we are swimming in clear water. This is a sea view of the village. There was no wind in the bay, only a snowball was falling, and solid clouds were running from above. In the distance, in the direction of Kildin (where we were going), there was generally a bright blue sky without clouds. Our team wandered around the deck, sat in the cabin, photographed the surroundings and had fun in every possible way - it took about two hours to go.

And then it began, we didn’t even have time to pass the Teribersky lighthouse ...

From somewhere there was a wind, the waves began to whip across the deck. Sometimes the shore was hidden from view when we fell between the waves down. Rolling longitudinal and transverse began to really get, although we prepared ourselves by taking the “wheels” from motion sickness in advance. On the one hand, it was all interesting and unusual. With the other - it was no longer up to smiles. I removed the camera a little later - I protected the equipment from salt water, and I had to hold on with both hands. You can’t go down into the cabin - there was a real simulator for checking the vestibular apparatus.

We pass the Teribersky lighthouse. It can be seen that the now fashionable style of facade renovation was interrupted by the winds.

The gear in the corner of the deck was covered with ice, we also have a crust of ice ...

The excitement at sea has become a little less, the clouds are leaving, the sun has appeared. You can start!

Part of our team grabbed spinning rods and settled down at the side. The other part continued to feed the fish with their breakfasts on the other hand :)) So they changed periodically. I was lucky in this regard - having completed a couple of tricks, I didn’t give anything to the “enemy”: during the campaign I stood in the fresh wind, looked straight ahead at a fixed point and tried to swing in unison with the boat. But, all the same, "not sugar", as they say.
However, here is the first one.

Wow! Immediately three on one spinning pulled out at a time!

The mood is different :)

Of course, not a record-breaking fish, but we are fine anyway.

Almost everyone is busy.
I went, poured myself some coffee, sat down on a bench in the sun and enjoyed the weather, sea smells, a day off in good company...

Sometimes, however, he grabbed the camera to fix the catch.

Several times they changed the point when they stopped pecking. They approached the lighthouse, then left it.

Nearby "dangled" another boat with fishermen.

Sometimes, when passing a big wave, it seemed that the ship was sinking...

Guys, meanwhile, continue to catch cod.

Change point again. A break also does not hurt: it is not so easy to carry tackle back and forth from the depth.

Kildin Island. So we didn’t get to it this time (I hope for future trips).

"Work continues.

More trophies...

We are right on the coast. The waves continue to attack the shore, although they are not the same as they were in the morning. I decided to take some shots of the coast from the sea. Unfortunately, this time without the "longest" lens - I gave it to the owner. In principle, I have 500 mm and 1000 mm (which are Soviet mirror Maksutov), ​​but they can’t practically shoot a static scene, what can I take them in such conditions :((

Coastal guns are visible. There was a report about a trip there a couple of years earlier.

Meanwhile, our trip is almost over. The captain of the ship showed us how to deal with fish quickly and professionally.

We go to the shore tired, hungry and satisfied.

It seems that the dream of the government of the Murmansk region about the active development of tourism in the region is coming true. There are more and more skiers and snowboarders in the Khibiny, even celebrities come to the Snow Village and the ice sculpture gallery. And you can’t drive to Teriberka. And it's not the weather, because of which the village is sometimes cut off from the world. There are just so many cars, especially on weekends, that there are traffic jams, as if in Moscow!

Leviathan on a hook

Who rides in these hundreds of cars and why? If it were summer, we would answer that the tourists set off on their journey for the sake of the Teriberka. New Life” or relax as savages among beautiful nature. But now they dream of getting into the village ... fishermen! Still, the PR of the village at the expense of Leviathan and the image of a beautiful corner did its job.

Never before have we had so many people coming to fish. This year, there are no places to park cars on the road, and in Teriberka itself. Cars are even at the school, the bus that carries the children cannot find a place for itself, - told KP a resident of Teriberka Victoria Solovyova.

What is it that attracts fishermen so much? In May-June, capelin comes to the coast of the village. There is so much of it that you can literally scoop buckets. What both residents of Teribsk and visitors do with pleasure. Folk fish is harvested literally in bags!

But now it's a long way to the washing feast. But on the other hand, during sea fishing, you can catch cod and haddock.

Know what to catch!

Near the shore there is a small fish, on average per kilogram in weight. But the farther, closer to the island Kildin, the larger it is. A 40 kilogram fish, as recently caught in Norway, has not yet been seen. But up to 5-10 kilos - can lead.

Now there are really a lot of people who want to go to the Barents Sea and cast fishing rods. Every day they call us to find out the cost of tours. Also, many travel on their own, hoping that they will be given transport and equipment. locals, - they told in one of the firms that deals with tours to Teriberka. - The catch is good, do not complain! There are also fishermen who catch 20-30 kilograms of fish per day. Need to know the place.

In general, one small vessel can return with a centner of fish in one run. If you get on the jamb, then you can pull out half a ton. But the storm passes, and the sea becomes empty. This weight seems solid to us, although the sea hunters themselves believe that a centner is not enough: it takes more to rent a boat, housing, tackle, etc. than the whole fish costs. Only renting a small boat for half a day can cost an average of 40-50 thousand, boats - 15 thousand rubles. Accommodation per day - about 1500-2500 rubles per person. As they say, consider yourself.

However, guests are not only interested in cod and haddock. If you search social networks, you can find photos of a feast with sea ​​urchins and crabs. By the way, you can’t catch the latter, you can get under a criminal case.

If we talk about legal catch, then near Teriberka you can catch more halibut, flounder, pollock, catfish, burbot, herring. There may also be a sea cucumber. However, if it is not possible to go to sea, you can throw a fishing rod into the lakes. In some, there are no fish, but there are also those where char and trout remained.

HOW ARE THEM?

Local residents are not happy with the influx

Residents of Teriberka would be glad that life in the village is in full swing. But their impressions of what is happening are twofold. One side, good way earn money by renting out housing and conducting excursions and fishing. There are even ideas to make paid parking. But on the other hand, the locals are afraid that they themselves will not have enough fish. Yes, and visitors are not very careful about the beauty of this corner of the Kola Peninsula: garbage is lying on the roadsides along the road and in the village itself.

They trampled on our weather station, they climb to all the instruments, while the readings are distorted, they ask for excursions. There seems to be nothing more for us to do, so we were just waiting for all these tourists, ”Svetlana Ivanova complained about the visitors in the My Teriberka group.

The same picture is observed in the summer. But the two sides of the same coin still come down to one thing - Teriberka has become popular.