In the Middle Ages, the Italian peninsula, the "Italian boot", was a patchwork of duchies, republics, kingdoms. Over the centuries, borders have constantly changed, cities have changed hands, whole states have arisen and disappeared. Even in the Papal States it was restless. The inhabitants of Tuscan Siena, who competed in the XIII-XIV centuries, did not know peace either. with Florence, whose possessions extended almost to the city walls. But on September 4, 1260, at the battle of Montaperti, they, who supported the supporters of the emperor (Ghibellines), managed to win a convincing victory over the Florentine Guelphs (supporters of the pope). Before the battle, the entire adult population of Siena took part in solemn ceremonies in honor of Our Lady. Only the Virgin Mary, according to the townspeople, could provide worthy patronage in the fight against Florence and other Guelph cities. After the victory in Montaperti, the first mass Siena Palio was held (from the word "palio" - a flag, a banner that is awarded to the winner). True, the main competitions were not horse races, but a fight on wooden swords (elmora) between 3 thirds (parts) of the city, which, in turn, were subdivided into 59 contrades (quarters, districts). Public games imitating fights were banned in 1291 after a particularly sad ending that spoiled one of the city's holidays. However, there were no bans on horse or bull racing, walking races and other competitions. Historians believe that the races in Siena, as the main event, began to be held in honor of great holidays already from 1310. In the 16th century. the townspeople were carried away by bullfighting, and after its ban by Ferdinand I of the Medici in 1590, the Siena races again came to the fore. They were held in Piazza del Campo. At first it was donkey racing, then buffalo racing. After several serious injuries in 1650, they were also banned. For the first time, the Palio in Siena in the modern sense - horse racing without a saddle - took place on July 2, 1656. By that time, the city was divided into 20 contrades, competing with each other. Currently, there are only 17 contradas that bear funny names for the uninitiated (for example, Turtle, Snail, Porcupine, Elephant, Owl, Forest and even the Ram Valley). Each of the quarters has its own coat of arms, flag, motto, colors, temple. The most successful contrada is Goose's contrada. For 400 years, she has won the Palio 65 times. Orel's contrada won the least - 24 times. For the Sienese, the Palio is a matter of life and death. The contrada that wins the Palio rises from happiness to heaven and arranges a huge celebration. Her traditional enemies - each contrada has its own - are grieving. But the saddest are the so-called "grandmothers" ("nonna") - this is the contrada that has not won the Palio for the longest time. The life of true patriots of the city is divided into 3 periods: before the Palio in Siena, during the Palio and after it. Since the competitions are dedicated to the Mother of God, official bets on the victory of one or another contrada are prohibited. But the very format of the Siena Palio - bareback horse racing over rough terrain - implies that the struggle will be serious. Horse racing in Siena usually lasts no more than 1.5 minutes. However, in the process of preparing for them, each contrada shakes up its costumes in the color of its flag anew, rehearses the ceremony of the solemn procession on the eve and on the day of the Palio, and re-develops the strategy for the behavior of the jockey and the horse on the course. The length of the distance is 1 km or 3 laps around the perimeter of Piazza del Campo. So that the horses do not immediately damage the hooves, the famous Sienese earth of a brownish-yellowish color is brought to the square, which is sprinkled with sand on top, after which it is compacted.
Every year, hundreds of thousands of tourists flock to the Italian city of Siena to see, in addition to ancient architecture, the famous Palio races. There is something in the word "Race" itself, and the upcoming races in the medieval city portend just an extraordinary spectacle!
The Palio races (Il Palio) are held in Siena twice a year - on July 2 and August 16 - and are a completely unique phenomenon, because the traditions of the Palio have remained virtually unchanged for many centuries. The races taking place on July 2 are named Palio di Provenzano in honor of the Madonna di Provenzano (there is a church of the same name in Siena). The Palio, held on August 16, is called the Palio della Assunta in honor of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin.
Initially, the races were held on bulls, then on donkeys. It is believed that the first Palio involving horses took place on July 2, 1656. In recent years, the Sienese have seen few spectacles, and they began to periodically arrange additional, third races from May to September, timed to coincide with significant events, such as, for example, the onset of the Millennium or the 100th anniversary of the unification of Italy.
The races are preceded by a special ritual of Corteo Storico, which exactly repeats the medieval one. The jumps themselves last no more than one and a half minutes. 10 horses circle the famous Piazza del Campo three times, the total length of the distance is about 1 kilometer. Traditionally, riders ride bareback and often fall off their horses on sharp turns. A horse can win a race alone - the victory is awarded to the horse. In case of victory, the rider receives a cash prize, and the contrado gets the Palio - a silk banner with the image of the Madonna and the baby.
The Palio is attended by 10 horses representing 10 contradas (districts). In total, there are 17 countertrades in Siena today, previously there were up to 80.
Siena countertrades:
1. Aquila (Eagle)
2. Bruco (Caterpillar)
3. Chiocciola (Snail)
4. Civetta (Owl)
5. Drago (Dragon)
6. Giraffa (Giraffe)
7. Istrice (Porcupine)
8. Leocorno (Unicorn)
9. Lupa (Wolf)
10. Nicchio (Shell)
11. Oca (Goose)
12. Onda (Wave)
13. Pantera (Panther)
14. Selva (Forest)
15. Tartuca (Turtle)
16. Torre (Tower)
17. Valdimontone (Ram)
Contrades were formed in the Middle Ages and play a significant role in the life of the Sienese. Contrada lives as one big family sharing joys and sorrows together. Of course, every contrada has allies and opponents. Belonging to the contrada persists even after marriage; born boys belong to the father's contrade, girls - to the mother's contrade. The Goose and Wolf counters have no allies, and the Caterpillar, Dragon, Giraffe and Forest counters have no official opponents.
About a month before the race, Siena begins to be decorated with contrada flags. Residents also dress up in matching caps and bandanas. 3 days before the race, on June 29 and August 13, respectively, 10 best horses are selected from 30 horses and a lottery is held to determine which horse will represent which contrada. Which 10 contrades out of 17 will take part in the Palio is determined by alternating the performances of 7 contrades and by drawing lots for the missing three contradas.
The race area on the square is fenced off and a special ground coating is poured, which simultaneously protects the ancient pavement from damage and the horses' legs from possible injuries. On the eve of the races, several trial races are held, accompanied by processions with music and songs, as well as long feasts after the races. On the day of the Palio, a dress rehearsal is held in the morning, after which the riders, along with the horses, go to the church for a special initiation ceremony. The priest reads a prayer, after which he admonishes each horse with the phrase: "Ve torna vincitore (Go and return with victory)". The races themselves are held at sunset, when the heat of the day subsides.
Having studied all of the above, we went to Siena, realizing that we would see something completely unique. At the southern gates of the city we were met by the flags of the contrada Onda (Wave). The symbol of this contrada is a dolphin, the colors are blue and white. The motto of the contrada is "Color of the sky, power of the sea" ("Il colore del cielo, la forza del mare"). Contrada Volna has the title of captain contrada, in the past her soldiers guarded the Palazzo Pubblico.
It was the day of trial races on June 30, but no less tourists came from that. Everyone moved along the decorated streets to the main square Piazza del Campo (Piazza del Campo). Tables were set up in the streets for the evening celebration. On that day, the inhabitants of the contrada Volna did not yet know that it was their horse that would come first on July 2, 2012.
The streets of Siena gradually became almost deserted.
On the day of the Palio races, Piazza del Campo is always packed to capacity. Also, all the balconies of the houses overlooking the square are occupied, despite the fact that for this pleasure you have to pay from 500 euros. The spectacle from Siena is televised and overshadows all other news in Italy that day.
Before the start of the race, the police cleared the fenced-off track with some difficulty.
The audience was frozen in anticipation.
From time to time, men sang a hymn with inspiration.
In general, entertainment is more popular among the men of Siena, as it seemed to me. Visiting tourists, however, also really liked it.
The process of building horses traditionally lasts much longer than the races themselves. The tradition was observed in the test run.
Broncos were not very willing to line up in the right order.
The races themselves passed, or rather they galloped, so quickly that we simply did not have time to take photos. But the video perfectly conveys the atmosphere of the event.
There was no winner this time, so all the horses after the race were in the center of attention of spectators and reporters.
After the races, we walked through Siena in the flow of tourists, we even managed to have dinner in a small restaurant. Finding a free table on such an evening was not easy.
By the Palio, absolutely everything in Siena is decorated with colorful flags and coats of arms of contrades, even the showcase of the famous Nannini confectionery. Palio caps and silk scarves are sold at every corner.
In the rays of the setting sun, the 13th-century Siena Duomo di Siena looked luxurious.
The cathedral was closed, that evening even the clergy were in Piazza del Campo!
When it got dark, on the main square of Siena, Piazza del Campo, directly on the race track, the tables of the nearest restaurants were set up. On the ground, there were still traces of horseshoes that had recently galloped here.
In the center of the square, the local orchestra was slightly out of tune, playing popular melodies, but the mood of those around it only lifted.
The waiters were knocked off their feet, taking orders for wines and traditional Tuscan cuisine. The famous Italian chocolate ice cream, served on fire, was excellent.
The celebration of the trial run of horses at the Palio (a great occasion!) continued throughout the city, not only in the main square. We had the opportunity to make sure that the contrada in Siena is almost a family formation.
On Sunday, processions of the inhabitants of contrades in medieval costumes were expected to the beat of drums. It seems that you can come to Siena every day, it won't be boring. In this beautiful city, you can get bored with great pleasure, walking along the perfectly preserved medieval streets. The gaze stops at something literally every minute. Siena is rightly considered one of the most beautiful and interesting cities in Italy. Every stone, every doorknob here has its own history.
The last thing we managed to see in Siena is the Volna contrada fountain in the form of a dolphin, which is a symbol of this contrada. They say that the favorite entertainment of tourists in Siena is the search for all the fountains and other attributes of contradas. Each contrada has its own flag, motto, square, museum, fountain and baptismal.
Oh, how much more we did not have time to see and learn in this wonderful city! More precisely, we didn’t manage to do anything at all in one evening!
Finally, one more shot of Siena shining with lights at night, already from the car window. I did not want to leave at all ... We will definitely return!
Palio in Siena (Illustration by Franco Caprioli)
In Piazza del Campo in Siena (Piazza del Campo) are the traditional races Palio (from the Italian "Il Palio", which means the banner - the trophy of the winner). 17 districts (counterparts) of the city compete in the competition. Horse racing is organized twice a year - on July 2 and August 16. If you are going to Siena in mid-August, then you have a chance to watch these traditional races.
Riders must ride bareback three laps of 333 meters each. If the rider falls during this extreme race, his horse ends the competition. In the final, not the rider is honored, but the winning horse.
Piazza del Campo is the main square of the city of Siena, where the horse races take place. In the center, the City Hall "Palazzo Pubblico" (Palazzo Pubblico), also known as (Palazzo Comunale) was built around 1297-1310 by the Government of the Nine as the building of the city administration. Siena was a free city of the republic (for comparison - in Ancient Russia Veliky Novgorod was such a free city, in Germany - Hamburg). A government of nine came to power in Siena in 1287.
Seventeen participants - Siena's contradas have their own names and emblems: Aquila (Eagle), Bruco (Caterpillar), Chiocciola (Snail), Civetta (Owl), Drago (Dragon), Giraffa (Giraffe), Istriche (Porcupine), Leocorno (Unicorn) , Magnifier (She-wolf), Nicchio (Shell), Oka (Goose), Onda (Wave), Panther (Black Panther), Selva (Forest), Tartuka (Turtle), Torre (Tower) and Valdimontone (Sheep Valley).
The area where the races take place does not belong to any of the contradas.
Lady of the contrada Bruko (Caterpillar).
Ladies with contrade symbols
Each contrada has its own coat of arms, colors and motto. These funny names for a modern person also have their own history. Each citizen of Siena remains "attached" to his district from birth, even if he moves to another district.
Lady of the Contrada Aquila (Eagle). Looks like the coat of arms of the Russian Federation
In the Sienese chronicles of the 12th-13th centuries, the festive races are referred to as "Palio di San Bonifazio" - "The Palio of St. Boniface".
The symbol of the Oka (Gus) district on a city street. It started to rain
In the Middle Ages, Siena was one of the richest and most cultured cities in Europe, traditional Palio became a festive event in honor of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, the protector of the free city. During the holiday, representatives of the city authorities and citizens solemnly brought candles and gifts to the cathedral as a token of gratitude and devotion to the Mother of God. Chronicles of 1200 tell how the townspeople "brought candles into the temple" in honor of the holiday.
For popular fun, the so-called "Deputati della Festa" were elected, which are mentioned in documents of the XIV century. "Deputies" performed certain festive organizational tasks, for which they received the necessary attributes.
The Palio races were usually attended by noble citizens. The prize was a pallium: a long piece of precious fabric, like a banner-trophy of the winner.
Horse racing in Siena. Contrada page Nikkio (Shell).
Retro postcard.
Victory and defeat were strictly delineated by mocking "prizes". In the chronicles of 1238, a case is described when the loser in the race "did not take the pig", for which he was fined 40 coins. Most likely, the losers were given not a live pig, but a headdress in the shape of a pig's muzzle. This taunt showed the difference between first and last in the competition.
Racing in Siena, 1965
During the Renaissance, the city holiday included ball games, mummer dances, bull racing (later donkeys) and all sorts of hooliganism that ended in injuries.
Traditional races took place along a long route. Noble gentlemen no longer wanted to take part in competitions themselves and hired jockeys. There were gambling, betting on the winner.
In the Middle Ages, fairs were held on the square, merchants from different cities and countries came here. Roads from the square led to Rome to the southeast, to the sea to the southwest, and to Florence to the north.
Equestrian competitions in Piazza del Campo began in 1656 and continue to this day.
Initially, the races were held only on July 2 in honor of the Madonna di Provenzano (Madonna di Provenzano) - the patroness of the city. The second date of the Palio appeared in the 18th century, when the winner from the Oka (Goose) region in July 1701 made a bet that he would win the second race on August 16 in honor of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary (Madonna Assunta).
"Palazzo Publico" in cloudy weather. The city changes in the rain. (Guests from "bog Petersburg" immediately spoil the weather).
The town hall is adorned with the Torre del Mangia tower, which is 102 meters high. The city of Siena competed with Florence and the city decided to build a tower that would be taller than the main tower of the rival city. The height of the tower in the Old Square in Florence is 94 meters. The construction of the tower began in 1325 and was completed in 1349.
The name of the tower was given in honor of the bell ringer Giovanni di Balduccio, who became famous for his love of a plentiful table, for which he received the nickname Mangiaguadagni (which means a spender who spends a lot of money on feasts). The Sunto bell (the name comes from "Maria Assunta", that is, "Ascension of Mary") is dedicated to the Virgin Mary and was installed on the tower in 1666. This bell signals the start of the Palio race in Siena.
The design uses my photos and illustrations from the site sienafree.it
Neither the heat nor the crowds of people stop tourists who travel to Siena from all over the world. In the photo - a panorama of Siena, opening from the vineyards of Tuscany.
We have been infected with this horse racing virus for a long time and this is the third time we have come to Siena. We were lucky to see very interesting and unusual events. The July Palio of 2017 will go down in history as the Palio of Defiance. The horses have shown who is in charge at the Palio!
already existing life experience took us to Piazza del Campo a few hours before the race. The first time, having arrived shortly before the start, we could not squeeze through to the most convenient place near the fence. could not get into the crowded square at all, at a certain point the police stop access. But this time we arrived early! There were a lot of police around the square, metal detectors were installed.
We looked into the courtyard of the Palazzo Publico. I don't dare to climb the tower of gluttony. 102 meters up a narrow staircase in a red-hot tower. The tablet warns that it is better not to do this for those who have doubts about their strength and health.
A few hours impatiently waiting for the start of the event in Piazza del Campo under the scorching sun is a ritual. They say you have to sit on the red paving stones of the square to be happy. Wow, how much we have served ourselves happiness this time! You can sit in the square and make a wish. To guarantee its execution, some not only sit, but also lie down.
Piazza del Campo has a very unusual shell shape and a slope of about 5 meters to one side. There is no second one like it in the world. Siena is located on three hills, the square was arranged in a hollow between them. The square is divided into 9 sectors by a white stone. If you look from above (with a quadcopter camera, for example, or from a gluttony tower), you will see a shell. One day I will have to write a whole article about this square, it deserves it!
The mansions of the Sienese nobility form a straight line of a circle 333 meters long. During the races, horses run three times in a circle along a track covered with soil. There was heavy rain the day before and there were no test races, before the start of the event, the workers corrected the ground.
Spectators gradually filled the area. Many dressed up in caps, T-shirts, bandanas and scarves of various contradas. Tickets to the stands for trial races cost from 50 euros, and for the Palio itself, at least 500.
Around the Palazzo Pubblico, some kind of revival began. All the photographers jumped up and rushed there!
The Palio was brought out to be shown to the public, and it is for the possession of this silk banner that the race is fought.
The procession is accompanied by drummers and flag bearers dressed in medieval costumes.
About an hour before the start of the event, the square is no longer overcrowded. Around this time, the entrance to the square is closed. Those who did not have time will watch the Palio through the passages from the streets over the heads of the police.
When the sun goes down to the horizon, a shadow appears on Piazza del Campo.
Before the start of the race, the track is cleared and cleared. Mossière (steward), the captains of the contrades and distinguished guests take their places. Around the crowd of reporters and television cameras.
They check the cracker several times, which will start the races.
Horses always appear truly royal. As if they understand their importance on this holiday. Everyone is here just to see them!
This beautiful contrada Orel will throw off her jockey in a yellow suit in a few minutes and come first without a rider. Good video there are these test races, but my video also shows a rider rising from the ground and a horse running away from him. By the way, it does not matter whether the jockey reached the finish line on a horse or got lost during the races. It is the horse that wins the Palio. The main thing is not to lose the headdress with the symbols of contrada.
But this black stallion named Tornasol will decide tomorrow a few minutes before the start of the main races that he is not in the mood, he does not like the jockey's yellow and blue outfit, the mass in the church was so-so in the morning, there were not enough carrots for breakfast, and therefore he will not take part in the Palio. No persuasion for an hour will help. Tornasol will even dance for the public, but will not want to get up to the starting line. Experienced jockey Luigi Bruschelli will not be able to persuade his pet.
Mossière will be forced to let the horse retire. The Anglo-Arab half-breed born in 2012 was the favorite at these races, with considerable sums wagered on her. There will be almost mourning in the contrada Turtle (Tartuca), counting on the victory of a strong young stallion.
A video called "Proteste di Tornasol" on youtube will blow up the Internet. With what a victorious look will the stallion who refuses to ride leave! He will be more in the spotlight at this Palio than the winning horse. The whole of Italy will grow to the TV screens. But it will be tomorrow. And we are watching a trial run on the eve of the races, July 1, 2017.
We take the place we have looked after in advance at the line of construction of the horses and cling to the fence to death so as not to be pushed back.
Photographers around get up the wonders of tightrope walking in the hunt for good shots. This time I photographed by hanging from the railing and holding the camera up with one hand. And I also managed to turn the settings for some reason ... You should always shoot in such conditions only in automatic mode !!! A future doctor from Canada and a couple from Australia also hung nearby with cameras. The crowd met a very middle-aged Sienese who was a jockey at the Palio 20-30 years ago. He said that in those days they rode almost wild horses, and today the animals are almost tame, which is contrary to tradition, although it is safer for jockeys and others.
Building horses in a line before the start of the race always takes a long time, although at trial races the requirements for the accuracy of building are less stringent.
However, it was probably worth clinging to the fence 50 meters ahead in order to admire the horses' muzzles in the formation, and not their muscular rear parts ... Let's take it into account next time!
The jumps themselves are literally seconds. But what passions are raging around!
After the races, it instantly darkens. Further in the program is already a traditional walk around the city, dinner at the Nannini confectionery and watching the horse races on the TV screen.
For tourists in Piazza del Campo, right on the tracks of the horseshoes of horses that have just galloped, restaurants again set up tables.
Throughout Siena, traditional feasts of contradas take place in the evening. Tourists are not invited, and therefore peep from the bushes.
Night Siena is great as always! The new camera helped to take good pictures at night.
But the daytime shots in Siena did not work out for me this time. Experiments with the settings were not very successful, but there are still frames for memory for the photo album. I hope to take better pictures next time! After all, we will return to Siena on the Palio!
P.S. A stallion named Tornasol is still a star; journalists regularly visit him and post videos of the “interview” on the Internet. However, the horse does not disclose the secret why he refused to ride the Palio.
All experts agreed that the horse is absolutely healthy and mentally balanced. But he knows how to show his character! The question of the possibility of participation of this horse in subsequent Palios is being discussed, including with him.