What lubricates skis for sliding. Preparing plastic skis for classic skiing. How and with what to lubricate semi-plastic skis? How to lubricate cross-country skis. How to oil new plastic skis

Plastic skis today are much more popular than wooden ones, they are more comfortable and glide better, but, like wooden ones, they need lubrication. If this sports equipment is not lubricated, then there will be no smooth and easy movement, so in this article we will talk about how to properly lubricate plastic ones.

Do plastic skis need to be lubricated?

People who have just started skiing do not yet know about many of the intricacies of caring for this sports equipment, and, of course, most beginners do not understand why skis should be lubricated at all.

This procedure is simply necessary, because lubricated skis glide much better, snow does not stick to them, and the shelf life of the skis increases from this, because the lubricant protects the sliding surface.

In order to process skis, as a rule, they use a hard brush, a special iron, a plastic scraper and paraffin-based lubricants, which come in several types:

Liquid lubricants. As a rule, this lubricant is applied in a thin layer, then the skis are dried and their surface is carefully polished. The advantage of this type of ointment is that it has a very high coefficient of adhesion with snow.
Solid lubricants. This type of ointment should only be applied to a preheated ski surface, for this a special iron is used (many skillfully use old irons with heavy thick soles).
Sprays and gels. Usually professional athletes use this form of ointment. it requires certain skills in applying to the ski surface.

How to lubricate plastic skis?

To cope well with this task, you should consider some rules:

Skis must be cleaned and dried before being lubricated.
If you have opted for a solid type lubricant, then it should be applied in several layers, with each layer must be rubbed separately and very carefully, and the last layer should be applied outdoors. Then the skis must be cooled for 20-30 minutes.
If your style of skiing is classic, then you need to lubricate the back or front of the skis.
Moisture should not get into the lubricant, so close the jar tightly, otherwise such an ointment will not be of any use.

How to lubricate new plastic skis?

In order for your skis to serve you for a long time and meet your requirements, they need proper care. If you purchased this sports equipment, then before you go out into the snow you need to lubricate them:

Published: December 19, 2012.

How to lubricate your skis? Do you need to lubricate your skis at all? These and many other questions arise for those who buy skis and plan to run or walk on them. In fact, why lubricate the skis?

Why oil your skis

Why lubricate skis? It is necessary to lubricate skis, both plastic and made of wood. The fact is that no matter how soft the snow is, friction occurs between it and the ski. The force of friction depends on the material from which the skis are made. In addition, the friction force depends on the quality and condition of the snow. Plastic skis glide better in the snow. Plastic has less friction force than wood.

In any case, the force of friction is present. In order to reduce it and lubricate the skis. Ski lubricant reduces friction between skis and snow. Try to check it yourself. Ride on ungreased skis. Another time, apply lubricant to the skis correctly according to the weather. Lubricated skis will glide better. This is if the weather is about the same.

After all, the friction force also depends on the temperature and condition of the snow. And to eliminate these factors, apply lubricant to one ski and not to the other. Then you will clearly see the benefits of lubrication. And the lubrication of cross-country skis, that is, skis for running and walking, is of particular importance.

Have you ever watched a skiing competition? If you watched, you probably heard that sometimes athletes complain about improperly selected ski lubricants. In any case, skis glide better with lubrication. Only someone was able to pick up a lubricant better and his glide was better. Accordingly, the result is better. After all, it rolled faster!

Lubrication is used not only for sliding. Sometimes when pushing, the skis slip back. After all, the ski can roll forward and backward. And we just need to move forward. To prevent the ski from slipping back, ointment is also used. A warmer ointment is applied under the ski block and during the push the ski sticks to the middle part of the ski track and does not slip.

Well, it is not yet necessary to exclude the purely practical benefits of lubrication. Lubrication reduces friction. And this means only one thing - lubricated skis wear out less. If you feel sorry for your skis, then lubricate them. And they will repay you with better gliding!

How to grease skis

What ointments are used to lubricate skis? If you are an athlete, then you already know. Athletes use a wide variety of ointments and paraffins from various manufacturers. From inexpensive to well, very expensive in price. For ordinary skiers, this is not so important.

What is ski lubricant

Lubrication for skis is different. There are many manufacturers of ski lubricants. Everyone has their own recipes. In general terms, this is the layout. There are solid ointments, liquid ointments, paraffins, gels and sprays. Gels and sprays are more for professionals. And we have enough solid ointments and paraffins.

Don't bother with the choice. Over time, you will understand what you need. Buy two sets to get started. This is a set of ointments for temperatures from a few degrees of heat to minus thirty frost. And at the same temperature a set of paraffins. And do not forget the cork for rubbing and leveling ointments.

Paraffins are more commonly used to lubricate plastic skis. The ointments are used to lubricate wooden skis and as holding ointments for plastic skis.

How to apply ski lubricant

How to properly lubricate plastic and wooden skis, or rather what paraffins and ointments to use for this, is written in the instructions for them. Read the instructions carefully, everything is detailed there. Everything is simple. To start. If you want to lubricate the skis with paraffin according to the instructions, then buy another iron to level the ointments and paraffins.

Ointments will be consumed over time. You will use some ointments more often, others less often. The consumption of ointments will be different. The most popular ones, as they are spent, can be purchased in the form of separate tubes at the desired temperature. You can even experiment if you want. Buy ointments of the same temperature from different manufacturers. Very often, they differ in slip.

How to lubricate your skis

How to lubricate your skis? Carefully read the instructions for ointments or paraffins. The words "block" and "ski ends" are found there. Who read my previous article, he knows, but for the rest I will say. The block is the middle part of the ski, and the ends of the skis are the toe and heel.

How to determine where to apply ointment

Determining where the last starts for your skis and your weight is easy enough. Stand on both skis on a flat surface. Place a sheet of paper under the middle of the skis. Under the middle of the skis should be clear, the sheet should move freely. It shouldn't be pinched. If it is pinched, then, unfortunately, you have the wrong skis. How to choose the right skis by clicking on the link.

Move the sheet of paper forward to the ski toes. Where it gets stuck, mark this place on the side surface of the skis with a marker. Move the sheet of paper back to the heels of the skis. Where the sheet gets stuck, mark this place with a marker too. Then put the skis side by side and make marks on the same level on the other ski. ski surface from one mark to another and it will be a block.

Paraffins are slip lubricants. In principle, you can do without them, some ointments. But if you have plastic skis, then it is advisable to use paraffins. If you use paraffins, then the general principle of ski lubrication is as follows. We apply paraffins to the ends of the skis, and ointments to the block. We apply, naturally, on the sliding surface of the ski.

How to choose the right ski wax

We apply lubricant (paraffins or ointments) to the ends of the skis, choosing according to the air temperature outside. Athletes, for a more accurate selection, measure the temperature of the snow with a thermometer. For example, if the temperature outside is minus ten degrees, then we use an ointment with a temperature range of -5-12 degrees Celsius.

You may have other ointments and temperatures. I gave an example using my ointments. It is important that the temperature outside falls within the temperature range of the ointment or paraffin. On each tube the temperature of application of this ointment or paraffin is written.

We apply only ointment under the block. Moreover, we apply the ointment warmer than on the ends of the skis. This is done in order to prevent slippage of the ski during a push. That is, so that you can push with your foot. If you lubricate the same ointment as the ends, then most likely, when you push with your foot, the ski will slip back. Walking and especially running will be very difficult.

Warmer - this means that the temperature of application of the ointment should be higher than the temperature of application of the ointment, which was smeared with the ends of the skis. For example, if an ointment with a temperature of -5-12 was applied to the ends, then an ointment with a temperature range of -2-8 degrees Celsius should be applied under the block. That is, the next, warmer one from your set of ointments. I give an example with my ointments (you may have other temperature values).

From my experience, I will say that it is also important to take into account the actual air temperature. That is, if the temperature outside is minus ten degrees Celsius, then an ointment with a temperature range of -5-12 should be applied to the ends. And under the block, it is desirable to be five degrees warmer than the coldest temperature of the ointment range. In this case -10+5=-5.

That is, -2-8, it may not keep the skis at this air temperature. Since -8 is colder, the resulting temperature is -5 degrees Celsius. Therefore, under the block we will use the next one from the set of ointments. And the next temperature is 0-2. We apply it in a thin layer or mix it with ointment for -2-8.

In order to mix the ointment, we apply different ointments alternately with a thin layer on the sliding surface of the skis. For example, five centimeters of skis with one ointment, the next five centimeters another. And, so, the entire part of the block. Better in a checkerboard pattern, alternate to the right and left of the groove. Then take the cork and rub the ointment well with the cork. They will mix. After you have applied ointment or paraffin to the sliding surface of the ski, it must be leveled with a hot iron. Excess paraffin must be removed with a special scraper.

Just don't use an iron to iron clothes. You will surely burn your skis. Use special irons to lubricate skis. They are for sale. You can do without ironing. To do this, rub the skis with a cork very vigorously. From friction, the surface of the ski heats up and the ointment or paraffin softens. Rub to a uniform gloss of the sliding surface of the ski. There should not be clots of ointment. If they still remain, then grind them. Then rub the entire surface. Lubrication of skis, their preparation, takes about ten to fifteen minutes.

Adjustment of ski lubrication along the track

It is clear how to lubricate the skis? But, unfortunately, the temperature on the thermometer can differ significantly from the air temperature in the place where you will ski. Therefore, for insurance, you need to take with you both a warmer and colder ointment than the one that was used when lubricating the skis. And, of course, a cork.

If the skis slip backward when kicked. In this case, remove the skis, wipe the sliding surface of the ski with a mitten. Prepare ointments. Under the block you need to apply a layer of warmer ointment than you applied earlier. Rub the ointment with a cork. If the skis frankly "stupid", well, they don't go, that's all, then apply a layer of colder ointment to the ends of the skis than you applied here earlier. Smooth the ointment with a cork.

Here are some simple tips to help you have a good time on the track. And using various movement techniques, which I will talk about in the following publications, you can also feel like a real skier. In any case, exercise in the fresh air will only benefit you. Forward, on the ski track, for health!

Why prepare your skis?

At the very beginning, a few words should be said, for those who are new to this field. Ski ointments are of two types: i. For a classic style, the front and back of the ski is lubricated with glide paraffins. And the center of the ski is lubricated with a holding ointment to reduce recoil. The length of the middle part (blocks) is about fifty centimeters. It is counted from the end of the heel of the boot, placed in the mount towards the toe of the ski. For beginners, it is possible to lengthen the block up to fifteen centimeters towards the toe.

In skating style, skis are lubricated along the entire length with glide paraffins. You will have to choose paraffins depending on what goals you set for yourself. If your goal is to ski on the weekends, then the cost of lubrication and time to prepare the skis will be minimal. But if you are going to compete and do it more professionally, you will have to give a lot of money and time.

The minimum preparation of skis at a more or less professional level includes: cleaning with soft wax (applying it, removing it and then brushing), applying several layers of weather wax (must be applied, allowed to cool to room temperature (about ten minutes), then scraped off , brush and polish). As a result, you will spend at least half an hour on these preparations. Another inconvenience is the smell, but it is not very strong. If you prepare skis at home, then there is a serious problem - paraffin contamination. They can ruin floors. And not only in the room where the preparation takes place, because it is possible to spread it throughout the house. Such training will be to the liking of only ardent fans of skiing. Fortunately, there are easier preparation options.

Lubricants and paraffins of slip.

There are several types of sliding lubricants. Paraffins are widely used among amateurs. Professionals, in most cases, also use additionally. These funds are not cheap, and quickly spent. Therefore, if you are not a professional athlete, then it is better not to spend money on expensive accelerators. The shelf life of paraffins is not limited, but it does not make sense to buy it in large quantities.

If where you intend to ride a humid climate, then you should purchase. Well, if the air humidity is below fifty percent, then ordinary paraffins will do.

In humid climates, it is good to use fluorinated gels, emulsions, sprays. All you need to do is apply them to the skis with an eplicator or spray them. Then dry, heat with a hair dryer and polish. In this case, the skis will be prepared very quickly and without problems. The main disadvantages of such funds are the considerable cost and rapid consumption.

Ski ointments holding.

Holding ointments exist in solid and liquid states. Any holding ointment must meet two criteria. Firstly, it should allow the skier to push (when pushing off, additional pressure is created under the middle part of the ski, and thanks to the ointment, the skis seem to stick to the snow (snow crystals enter the ointment layer), which allows you to push off). After repulsion, the crystals come out of the ointment layer, which allows the skis to glide. Secondly, in the case when a person slides on one of the skis and pressure is also created under the middle part of the ski, the ointment should not slow down the movement. There are various methods of applying the ointment, such as applying several layers.

With ointment for lovers, things are much easier. There is one simple rule that works for sub-zero temperatures and inexpensive ointments: you should use an ointment whose lower limit of the temperature range is three to four degrees higher than the current temperature. If you didn’t guess with the ointment, and if the skis slow down excessively, then apply a more “cold” ointment on top, if they slip too much - a warmer one. Also, to enhance braking, you can increase the length of the block towards the toe of the ski. Applying a new layer of ointment will take only a few minutes, but nothing will spoil your riding experience. Do not be afraid to experiment with ointment, in this way you can quickly find the best option for yourself.

It is enough for an amateur to have three or four jars of ointment, which would be in the range from plus three to minus fifteen degrees. If you oil your skis at home, it is recommended that you remove any remaining wax before applying a new one. To remove the old ointment, use a special one. It is best to apply the ointment in two or three thin layers, rubbing each.

Ointments in the liquid state are called. Apply it in the desired thin strip on both sides of the groove, and then level it with a plastic scraper. This procedure is difficult to do directly on the track, so it is better to prepare in advance at home.

Klister can be applied at positive temperatures. But he has one unpleasant property - he greatly stains the case. So after skiing, it is better to wrap the skis in polyethylene so as not to pollute or spoil the cover. After using the skis, the klister begins to thaw and drain. It is best to wash off the klister immediately after riding, or remove it with a scraper.

Solid ointments usually work great in sub-zero temperatures, but problems can arise under certain conditions:

Podlip. When the temperature goes above zero, such an unpleasant phenomenon as sticking may occur. This is the adhesion of snow to the ointment. As a result, a snowball is formed under the block.
Icing. Snow crystals, instead of leaving the composition of the ointment after a point, break in it. An ice crust appears on the surface of the ointment. Often this happens when the temperature of the ointment is a little higher than necessary.
The condition of the snow inside and outside of the track may differ, therefore, when leaving the track, problems may arise, the skis may brake too much. This can also be observed when leaving the shade for the sun and vice versa.

Ski preparation tools.

A few words should be said about the necessary tools. After reading some articles, newcomers to skiing may have the impression that dozens of tools need to be purchased to prepare skis. For professionals, this is possible. But beginners can get by with only the most modest set.

If the base of your skis is made of high molecular weight sintered plastic, then the main tool for ski preparation will be. The remaining necessary tools are a scraper and 2 types of brushes - copper (for preliminary removal of dirt and residues of old paraffin) and nylon (for polishing the structure after applying new paraffin).

New skis, whether you later hot wax them or not, are best treated with an iron. We do not recommend using an ordinary household iron, since there is a possibility of burning the plastic - an irreversible action that will greatly impair the sliding properties of the plastic. Primary treatment should be performed with plus soft paraffin, the melting point of which is about seventy degrees. It is necessary to set the temperature of the iron to a minimum, at which the paraffin will melt, and proceed to warm up the ski, smoothly running the iron from the toe to the heel of the ski. It is necessary to monitor the temperature of the iron and ensure that there is always a layer of paraffin between the iron and the ski. This method of processing is suitable if you are not going to apply paraffin with an iron in the future.

A non-woven material that is used for the final polishing of skis. Used by professionals when applying expensive accelerators.

Sandpaper. It is used for sanding a ski last in a classic style in order to better hold the ointment on it in the future. Not necessary. For sanding, any fine-grained sandpaper is suitable.

Metal cycle. Used to remove the old structure. The fan doesn't need it. Cycling skis requires a special machine and certain skills. But it is very easy to ruin skis with this device.

, with which a new temperature structure is applied to the sliding surface. For amateurs is not necessary. Manufacturers apply sufficient structure.

. It is used for preliminary cleaning of the ski structure and for removing old paraffins.

. It is used to remove holding ointment and sliding paraffin. It is advisable to purchase. A very useful thing.

. It is used for leveling holding ointments. Plastic rubbing is best applied to ointments, and cork - to accelerator paraffins. Required tool.

Accessories.

Selection of ski waxes.

Depending on the level of training of the skier, you can in our store or collect your own:

1) Minimum. Suitable for walking through the forest on plastic skis. It is not necessary to buy paraffin and a bunch of tools. It is enough to purchase a set of holding ointments. You need to lubricate the skis under the block, rubbing with a synthetic cork so that there is no recoil. This will be enough for walking.

Compound: three or four jars of holding ointment, with a temperature range from zero to minus fifteen degrees. And one cork-grinding.

2) Sufficient. Kit for complete and intelligent ski care. With it, you can ride in any weather, and even participate in some competitions.

Compound: the minimum set plus a set of inexpensive paraffins, a ski iron, a wash, a brush, a scraper.

3) Advanced. A set that will suit a well-trained professional athlete.

Compound: a sufficient set plus a set of holding ointments with fluorine, a set of paraffins with fluorine, knurling, accelerators, sprays and emulsions.

Ski waxing

First, a few words for those who are completely ignorant of ski lubrication. There are two main types of lubricants: sliding lubricants and holding lubricants. For a classic course, the nose and heel of the ski are lubricated with glide lubricants, usually paraffins. And the central part of the ski (block) is lubricated with a holding ointment so that there is no recoil. The length of the block is approximately 50 cm from the heel of the boot placed in the mount, forward to the toe of the ski. For beginners, you can lengthen the block by another 10-15 cm to the toe of the ski. (I have heard how people were advised that there should be no recoil to smear the back (!!!) of the ski.) Skis for skating are lubricated along the entire length with slip lubricants. The choice and purchase of lubricants and lubrication tools depends on how you intend to ride. If the main goal is hiking on weekends, then the arsenal of funds and, most importantly, the time spent on preparing skis are greatly reduced. If you are going to race, then you will have to invest money and precious time. If you've read Swix's or any other company's ski preparation material, you can estimate how long it would take to get one pair of skis to a minimum professional level: soft wax cleaning (application, plastic scraping, brushing), then 1-2 coats of weather wax (applying, cooling the ski to room temperature for at least 10 minutes), removing with a plastic scraper, brushing, polishing). That is, for half an hour at least you will be messing with one pair. Plus, additional "pleasures" - the smell (though not strong), scraped paraffin on the floor. If you have carpets on the floor - the end of the carpets. Once a friend and I prepared skis at his house, rolled up the carpet, then, of course, removed everything, but some remnants of paraffin, apparently, remained on the floor, and the carpet began to slide wildly ... I remember the kind words of his wife ... In short, we need a place where to turn around and not disturb anyone for at least 30-40 minutes, otherwise the remnants of paraffin will be smashed with their feet throughout the apartment, especially in winter, when, due to dryness and static electricity, these remnants strive to stick to everything. It happens that while you are fiddling with the preparation, all the desire to ride disappears at home. This is only for "turned" fanatic skiers. Fortunately, there are alternative options, cheap and good in terms of results, which will be written about in the following sections.

Sliding lubricants.

Gliding lubricants come in many varieties. Most often, paraffins are used, and in professional sports accelerators (powders or pressed), emulsions, pastes, etc. are also used. Such lubricants are quite expensive, and are consumed quickly enough. Therefore, if you are not going to race professionally, then do not take expensive imported lubricants. In most cases, domestic ones are no worse, and often better (except that some go faster than imported ones). The shelf life of paraffins is practically unlimited. But it doesn't make sense to take too much. And many different brands and types are also not needed - the problem of choice inevitably arises - which is better for today's weather ... In professional lubrication, this is solved by hauling paraffins, but lovers do not need to torture themselves with a choice. If the climate in the area where you live is humid, then you are better off buying fluorinated paraffins. If the humidity is usually below 50%, then you will be fine with fluorine-free paraffins. From inexpensive domestic ones, we can mention Uktus, Luch, VISTI, MVIS, FESTA paraffins. For humid climates, fluorinated gels, pastes, sprays, or emulsions are good. Apply to a sliding surface with a cotton swab or spray, dry or warm with a hair dryer, then polish. Fast and convenient. Disadvantages: expensive, quickly consumed, last up to 10-15 km.

Holding lubricants.

Holding ointments are solid (in jars) and liquid (in tubes). The holding ointment must meet two requirements. First - the ointment should allow you to push. When pushing under the block, additional pressure is created on the snow, and snow crystals enter the layer of holding ointment, the ski "sticks" to the snow, which allows you to push. After the push, the crystals should come out of the ointment, which will allow the ski to glide. When a skier glides on one ski, the pressure is under a block is also present, but at the same time, the ointment should allow you to slide on one ski and “slow down” only at the moment of push. Therefore, the selection of the optimal holding ointment, which provides the best combination of holding and sliding, is not an easy task in professional sports. Alternation of layers of different ointments is used, their imposition in a checkerboard pattern and other techniques. Lovers can be smeared easier. In order not to fool my head, I will give the most simple rule: for most sub-zero weather conditions and inexpensive holding ointments (Uktus, MVIS, VISTI, inexpensive (without fluorine) imported SWIX, START, RODE, etc.) you need to put an ointment, the lower temperature limit the range of which is 3-4 degrees higher than the current temperature. For example, if now -5, then put the ointment -1 + 1 or -2-0. Since the condition of the snow, and hence the holding, depends not only on temperature, but also on air humidity, wind, old or new snow, and even the region, always take a plastic rubbing (the so-called "cork") and a warmer ointment with you and colder than the one that was smeared at home. If you do not get into the ointment, then if it slows down too much - put a colder one on top, it does not hold well - warmer. (To improve grip, you can also lengthen the lubrication zone of the pad forward towards the tip of the ski.) Get lubed in a couple of minutes, and you will be happy to ride the rest of the time. Since snow is different everywhere, for a particular region this rule can be adjusted in terms of the value of the shift in the temperature of the ointment relative to the air temperature. Don't be afraid to experiment and you'll quickly find the best fit. For an amateur, 3-4 jars of ointment are enough, covering the temperature range from +3 to -15 degrees. If you are smearing at home, then before applying a new holding ointment, it is advisable to remove the remnants of the old ointment with a plastic scraper. It is better to apply the ointment in 2-3 thin layers, rubbing each with a cork. Liquid ointments are often called klisters. The klister is applied in a thin strip on both sides of the groove and leveled with a plastic scraper (it is difficult to do in the cold, it is better at home). Klister may be needed for positive temperatures. But he gets very dirty. Before you put your skis in a bag when you go skiing, wrap them in plastic so as not to ruin the bag. In addition, after skiing, the klister thaws and if the skis are vertical, then it begins to slowly flow down them. So after skiing, it is better to remove the klister immediately with a wash (gasoline, or even a scraper and a dry rag). In sub-zero temperatures, solid ointments usually work well. But under certain weather conditions, you may encounter some problems: Podlip. At transient temperatures (about 0 degrees) and with fresh, especially falling, snow, you may encounter a "stick" - the snow will stick to the ointment and turn into a thick snowball under the block. Icing (freezing) of the ointment. At negative temperatures (more often at transitional temperatures of -2 -0, but it also happens at -25), "icing" of the ointment may begin - snow crystals, instead of completely leaving the ointment layer after a push, begin to break off, leaving the tips in the ointment, and on an ice crust appears on its surface. More often this is due to the fact that the ointment is softer (warmer) than necessary. It can also happen if you start skiing right after leaving the house, when the skis are even warmer than the surrounding air. If the air temperature is below 0 degrees, but the snowflakes on the ski turn into water, it’s too early to ski. In addition, the uncooled ointment can quickly come off. Allow skis (and wax) to cool to ambient temperature for 10-15 minutes. The condition of the snow in the track and outside it can be different, so the ointment, which allowed you to roll normally in the track, can slow down a lot when leaving it. Also you can feel the difference in holding and sliding when riding in sunny areas and in the shade, for example, in the forest.

Necessary tools and their substitutes.

Now about the necessary set of tools. If you look at the SWIX (or another company) manual for preparing skis, it seems that you need to additionally purchase a whole suitcase of all kinds of tools and materials for skis. For professional ski training, this is really necessary. But an amateur can get by with a much more modest set of tools. If you take skis with a racing base (sometimes called a sliding surface), which is made of high molecular weight sintered plastic, then the main tool is a ski iron, the rest can be depicted from improvised means. The fact is that a household iron has a very large hysteresis loop at the thermostat - paraffin either smokes or barely melts. And at a high temperature, you automatically burn out the base (sliding surface), that is, you melt the pores, and the paraffin stops being absorbed into the base. And the point of buying expensive skis disappears. A good ski iron can be bought for $60-70. Regardless of whether you later use a hot paraffin application or not, it is still better to process with an iron the first time. In extreme cases, you can get by with a household iron (just don’t ruin a good one, take an old condo one, without holes in the sole). In this case, be Be careful - have a large damp cloth handy. If suddenly the paraffin smokes, you can quickly reduce the temperature of the soleplate of the iron by applying a rag to it and avoid burning the plastic. Primary treatment is performed with soft plus paraffin without fluorine, the melting point of which is 65-75 degrees, which also reduces the risk of burnout. Set the temperature regulator of the iron to the minimum at which the paraffin melts normally, and begin to warm up the ski, moving the iron smoothly and without pressure from the toe to the heel of the ski. Make sure that it does not overheat, and that there is a layer of paraffin between the iron and the ski all the time. It is better to lead a household iron sideways, with a wide part of the sole. This option is suitable if you do not plan to constantly apply paraffins with an iron. The following lists the main tools used in the preparation of skis, and considers the feasibility of their acquisition by amateurs. Plastic scraper for removing excess paraffin. You can buy a branded one for 3-4 dollars, or you can replace it with a piece of a transparent school ruler, plexiglass, etc. 2-4 mm thick. In this case, you need to do the following: put a fine sandpaper on a flat surface with the abrasive up, and trim the ruler on the sandpaper so that the edges are sharp and straight, and there are no burrs and bumps. In addition, grind the corners of the ruler on the skin in a semicircle (the edges should remain sharp). Fit these corners to the groove of your skis so you can skim the wax out of the groove later. If you have several pairs of skis, then adjust the angles for different pairs. Look in the store for branded scrapers to get an idea of \u200b\u200bwhat should come out in the end. Nylon brush, used to remove paraffin residue after removing it with a scraper. If you will be using a hot wax application, then a brush that is hard enough is essential. For this, I had to use household brushes such as "ironing" or a hand brush with stiff nylon bristles. "Sand is an unimportant substitute for oats", but remove excess paraffin is also possible. Coarse Fibertex (fibertex), for example, SWIX T265 - is needed when preparing new skis to remove lint from plastic remaining after machine grinding of the sliding surface. (Actually, the residual nap will come off on its own after a few months of riding). Fibertex is not too expensive. Approximately the same in appearance household abrasive plates may contain not such an abrasive, and only add a pile. But there are also almost complete analogues. But to buy it or not to buy ... Probably not necessary. Fiberlene (fiberlen) - non-woven material used for the final polishing of skis. In general, it is not needed, you can polish the skis with an old nylon stocking. Or a piece of felt. Finally, an old woolen sock. Sanding paper SWIX No. 100, used for sanding classic ski lasts, so that the wax adheres better. Need not. Any household skin will do the appropriate grit. In general, sanding under the block is necessary if you run more than 20-30 km or on ice. Razor scraper Swix T-89, used to remove the pile - the amateur does not need it. Metal cycle. It is unlikely that you will scrape yourself - the process requires skill, and, most importantly, a ski machine in which the ski is rigidly attached. Modern skis are produced with an applied structure, which should not be scraped. The cycle is only needed to remove burnt plastic. And spoiling a ski during scraping is as easy as shelling pears - a hand trembled - and here is a wave or a scratch. Lovers don't need it. Knurling is used to apply structure to a sliding surface. Lovers don't need it. A universal structure applied at the factory is sufficient. A copper brush is needed to remove frosty paraffins. If you are willing to put up with a slight loss of glide by using a warmer wax, you don't need it. If you apply hard frosty paraffin, you will have to take it. Or use a gel or frost accelerator that applies in a very thin layer and does not require the use of a stiff brush. Wash, used to remove the holding ointment under the block. Also suitable for washing off the sliding paraffin, if it is not possible to use hot cleaning of the skis. Preferably. This is generally a useful thing in everyday life - that she just did not have to clean it off. Rubbing (cork), used for leveling holding ointments. Plastic is better suited for ointments. Cork can be used to apply accelerators. Will definitely be needed.

Additional accessories.

Another desirable item is a ski bag. Firstly, there will be somewhere to store skis, and, most importantly, you will not get dirty with holding ointment while you get to the ski track. It is very difficult to clean it from clothes without a solvent or wash. Good domestic covers cost from 200 rubles. Take a cover for 2-3 pairs. It holds both skis and poles. It's a good idea to take Velcro ski bundles. There is less risk that the sliding surface of the ski during transportation will be damaged by poles or bindings of another pair. If you go to the ski track not far, then in this case you can carry skis without a case. O Skis that are tied together are harder to get dirty. The skis are tied in such a way that the soft lining of the ligament is between the sliding surfaces of the skis, they should not touch. Rags. To process the skis, you will need old cotton rags. They wipe the sole of the iron dry after applying paraffins, clean the scrapers and other tools, remove the holding ointment using a wash, brush off the remaining paraffin after passing through with a scraper and brushes, and so on. Even polishing the ski after applying paraffins, at worst, can be done with a rag without strong pressure.

How to store skis

Since most ski models, especially mass-produced ones, use wood, you should not store your skis near heat sources or on a sunny balcony. My friend put a bag with skis on a glazed balcony on the sunny side for the summer. And one pair of skis "led", it's good that it was inexpensive. Lubricants should also not be stored near heat sources or in the sun.

Simplified lubrication technologies.

You can try this method (experimented): take a metal bucket with a lid, say, a liter. It should not be enamelled, but a purely metal ladle with a smooth, even bottom, preferably aluminum - it has high thermal conductivity. Boil water, pour 2/3 of the ladle, no more, so as not to accidentally scald. Close the pot with a lid to avoid getting burned by the steam. This combination will replace the iron when using soft paraffins during the initial processing of skis or when lubricating with heat and a slight minus. As a rule, such paraffins have a melting point well below 100 degrees Celsius. Paraffin should be previously rubbed with a thick layer on the sliding surface, and the ski should lie horizontally, with the sliding surface up, for example, on two stools. Boiling water and a well-conducting ladle are enough to melt low-melting paraffin. Of course, you can’t put frosty paraffin in this way, but there will be a 100% guarantee against burning the base. Change the water as it cools down. Make several slow passes from the toe to the end of the ski. But keep in mind that this method has a significant drawback - you can accidentally turn the ladle over and scald. Therefore, for permanent use, it is still better to purchase a ski iron. One more way. Paraffin can be applied by intensive rubbing. First of all, clean the ski. If there is a clear layer of old paraffin on the ski, then lightly go through with a plastic scraper and / or a nylon brush. Rub a clean ski with a very thin continuous layer of paraffin bar (this is convenient to control by looking at the reflection of the ski from the window). Not even necessarily a completely continuous layer. Then take a cork rub and rub it intensively in both directions for 1-2 minutes. The generated heat is enough to partially fuse the paraffin into the base. Then go lightly brushing from the toe to the heel of the ski. The time spent is minimal. There is practically no dirt, the machine is not required. On normal snow will keep at least 10 km. There is such a thing - thermal rubbing from the TOKO company - this is a piece of dense felt with a fine structure, glued to sponge rubber. This combination allegedly generates enough heat to apply the accelerators cold. It is imitated by an insole made of dense synthetic felt wrapped around a small flat piece of wood. It can also be used as an alternative to cork rubbing when applying paraffins in a cold way.

What lubricants to buy.

Depending on the level of your training and the thickness of your wallet, there are three sets of lubricants that are enough for skiing.

Minimum.

This kit will be enough for you to comfortably walk through the forest on plastic skis without recoil and sticking. It is not necessary to buy paraffins, irons, brushes and other tools. It is quite enough to buy a set of holding ointments (for example, VISTI or Sviks) and smear the skis only under the block, rubbing them with a cork so that there is no recoil. For walks, believe me, this is quite enough, the skis will glide even without paraffin. Here is what is included in the required minimum kit: 3 - 4 jars (briquettes) of holding ointment covering the temperature range from 0 to -15 degrees (adjust depending on the region), and one cork or synthetic rubbing. Ointments and rubbing will cost you 100 - 200 rubles. If money allows, buy an additional plastic scraper (about 90 rubles) and a bottle of branded wash (about 300 rubles). However, about the scraper and its substitutes was written above. You can do without flushing. As without it at all, that is, remove the old ointment with a scraper, and replacing it with a bottle of kerosene or gasoline.

Sufficient.

This kit will allow you to competently and fully care for your skis. This set is enough for the eyes not only for comfortable skiing in the forest in any weather, but also for participation in most mass ski races such as the "Ski Track of Russia". It includes the same as in the minimum kit, plus a set of inexpensive paraffins, an iron, a brush, a wash can, a plastic scraper, a set of inexpensive liquid ointments. Such a kit will cost a more substantial amount - from 3000 rubles. It is highly desirable to add a special ski machine to this kit - it will allow you not only to prepare your skis very decently, but also to enjoy this process. (If you wish, you can make the machine yourself from improvised pieces of wood, scraps of a tourist rug or something similar, and a few pieces of iron and screws to secure the skis).

Advanced.

This kit may be needed by an already quite advanced and trained skier. To all of the above, you can add a set of holding ointments containing fluorine (solid and liquid), as well as paraffins containing fluorine (such a lubricant is especially effective in conditions of high humidity). You can also buy antistatic paraffins (needed to remove static electricity from the sliding surface of skis), accelerators (powdered and pure fluorocarbons in the form of tablets), knurling (to apply a weather-appropriate structure to the sliding surface), sprays and emulsions. Also, keep in mind that advanced skiers try to have lubricants from different companies in their arsenal, since ointments often from completely different manufacturers work well in different weather. In general, this kit is already for an advanced skier, and its cost increases many times compared to the cost of the first two kits combined.

And ski trips know that a necessary condition for the proper operation of sports equipment is its preparation before use. Regular lubrication of the skis makes it easier to glide on the snowy surface and protects them from rapid wear. Everyone needs lubrication, regardless of the material of manufacture: both plastic and wooden.

Types of lubricants

The most common ski lubricant is paraffins. They are available in standard size bars, but vary in price range. In the assortment of foreign manufacturers there is liquid wax with tubes. It is worth considering that in the central zone and in the south of Russia in the winter season, the air temperature can fluctuate significantly, and this is one of the factors affecting slip. Therefore, in the arsenal it is desirable to have several types of paraffins intended for use in different temperature ranges. Since paraffins are slip lubricants, they are used to treat the nose and heel of the skis. For the block (central part), holding ointments are used.

Lubrication of skis with paraffin is especially widely used in amateur sports for short training sessions and short hikes up to 15 km. In a professional environment, the requirements are completely different. Here skiers use more expensive means (accelerators). They can be presented in various variations, in the form of aerosols, powders, emulsions, etc.

Equipment and accessories for lubrication

In order to properly treat the skis with ointments and paraffin on their own, additional accompanying products are needed:

A special iron for application and distribution, you can use a regular old iron, but with care, and set the minimum heating mode.
Plastic scraper for removing the old paraffin layer.
Brush with coarse bristles, mostly nylon. With its help, the sliding surface of the skis is cleaned more thoroughly.
Used to clean pads
To lubricate the skis to ensure maximum glide, their surface is polished with a non-woven material. It can be old things made of nylon, wool or felt.

Ski preparation process

Lubrication of plastic skis is carried out according to the following scheme: first, the remnants of the old lubricant layer are removed with a scraper. Then, the entire surface in the nose and heel is carefully cleaned with a brush and sandpaper in the block. Only after that, the sliding surface of the skis is treated with paraffin, and the block with a holding ointment. For maximum results, paraffin can be applied in several layers. This method is used to prepare professional racing skis. In amateur sports, a single lubrication of skis with sliding ointments (paraffins) is a sufficient condition. In conclusion, the sliding surface of the skis is to be polished.

To cool and fix the lubricant, the skis are taken out into the street for about 30 minutes. After this time, they will be ready for use.

Today we will share with you general information on ointments, lubricants and ski preparation. What a beginner should know in terms of how to prepare skis, what is needed for this, how often it needs to be done. Regardless of what kind of skis they are, in most cases they need to be lubricated.

Do budget skis need to be lubricated?

Budget skis, that is, at a price of up to 5,000 rubles, you do not need to lubricate. The fact is that skis are made from two types of materials: extruded polyethylene and sintered. The slipper, which is made using Extruded Base technology, almost does not absorb. Such a ski glides more on its texture. Sintered Base is a more expensive and more complex technology. Such a surface has pores that can absorb paraffin. Thus, paraffin works: in the process of work, it comes out of these very pores. There is no point in lubricating cheap skis - the lubricant on them will not last long.

Are classic and skating skis lubricated the same way?

And it lubricates differently. Both types of skis have a sliding surface that lubricates the same under equal weather conditions, but classic skis also have a block on which a holding ointment is applied.

Is it possible to do ski preparation at home or do I have to go to the service?

You can cook skis at home. But for this it is necessary to purchase equipment that will allow you to work with skis. From a minimum, an iron is needed - in order to apply paraffin using the hot method.

An ordinary household iron will not work here, it is absolutely impossible to work with such an iron, it is for completely different purposes.

Profile - a special device that is mounted on the table and allows you to fix the ski with the sliding surface up. In this position, the skis need to be prepared. At least two brushes: steel with a fine pile and nylon, soft. Steel is needed in order to clean the ski before applying paraffin and clean the paraffin after application - to open the pores. After that, a soft nylon brush is used to polish the sliding surface, making it even more slippery. You also need a plastic scraper for the initial removal of paraffin after it has been applied and cooled. Paraffin must enter the pores, and it must be removed from the surface of the skis. What we have now listed is necessary for the preparation of skating skis.

To prepare classic skis, you also need a cork for rubbing the holding ointment on the block and a wash. It is very difficult to remove an old and dirty holding ointment with anything other than a wash. The old holding ointment must be removed before applying a new one. A wash is a special solution, quite caustic, which is able to corrode holding ointment, resins and complex contaminants. This is the bare minimum for a home.

Why is it better to prepare skis in a service?

There is a certain sense in buying all this equipment if a large family and everyone skis. If a person is seriously interested in skiing, then it makes sense to buy in order to “wax” yourself and your friends. I would still always turn to the service, there the equipment is more professional than an ordinary skier can afford to buy. Service irons, as a rule, differ from home irons in a thicker sole. Applying powders or even cold lubricants with a home iron is sometimes very difficult. The thing is that the sole loses temperature and it takes more time to melt the lubricant. As a result, many begin to literally rub the lubricant. The ski overheats and the plastic surface melts much easier than the unheated surface. The valuable factory structure suffers greatly from this. This is especially true for warm skis with large and sharp structures.

Lubricant classification

First of all, you need to divide the lubricants according to the temperature of the snow. Four main ranges. Warm lubricants - plus and zero, zero and a small minus. Frosty - by minus 5-15 and by minus 15-30. The colder the snow, the harder the grease will be and the melting point will be higher. In frost, the snow is rough and warm lubricants quickly work out. Frosty snow gets stuck in soft paraffin, which worsens the glide a lot. Warm (soft) lubricants have better water repellency than solid lubricants.

Further, it is worth dividing any lubricants according to the fluorine content. Fluorine significantly increases the water repellency of any lubricant. Lubricants without fluorine are the most budgetary, but it does not mean that they are bad at all. In conditions of low humidity, they are able to give very good glide. The average content of fluorine already gives some advantages at high humidity. Often they are used as an independent lubricant. But riders have more like ground for more fluoric compounds and accelerators. They are much more expensive than fluorine-free lubricants. High fluoride and ultra are used at very high humidity of snow and air. They are expensive and a beginner skier can even be discouraged by their price.

How much will it cost to maintain skis manually and how much will it cost in the service

Four paraffins for the whole winter or even for two seasons will cost 600 rubles per briquette. An amateur iron will cost 4 thousand, a profile - 5 thousand, a scraper - 200 rubles, a scraper for a groove - 200 rubles, brushes will cost 3 thousand. Total for 15 thousand "pass". If a person prepares his skis for only one pair during the season, then it does not always make sense to purchase this equipment. In the service, skis for a beginner will be prepared in 10 minutes. In total it will cost 300 rubles. At the same time, they will give recommendations, assess the condition of the skis, and tell a lot of interesting things. Lubrication applies approximately 20-25 km of travel

Should I remove the grease or let it sit until the next time?

For athletes, before each training session, before each race, the skis are completely cleaned and new lubricants are applied immediately before going out on the snow. And a beginner should apply lubricant in case of weather changes or if the lubricant has developed. Skating skis will in any case be cleaned with a wire brush before lubrication. As for the classics, you will need a wash for the ointment.

For good manufacturers

In service, I mainly use Swix, Start, Vauhti, Maplus, Toko, Ski-go, Holmenkol lubricants. It can be said with dignity - these are the best of the best. These lubricants are used both in world-class racing and in mass sports.

First, a few words for those who are completely ignorant of ski lubrication. There are two main types of lubricants: sliding lubricants and holding lubricants. For a classic ride, the nose and heel of the ski are lubricated sliding lubricants, usually with paraffins, and the central part of the ski (block) lubricated with holding ointment so that there is no return. The length of the block is approximately 50 cm from the heel of the boot placed in the mount, forward to the toe of the ski. For beginners, you can lengthen the block by another 10-15 cm to the toe of the ski. (I have heard how people were advised that there should be no recoil to smear the back (!!!) of the ski.)

Skis for skating are lubricated along the entire length with glide lubricants.

The choice and purchase of lubricants and lubrication tools depends on how you intend to ride. If the main goal is hiking on weekends, then the arsenal of funds and, most importantly, the time spent on preparing skis are greatly reduced. If you are going to race, then you will have to invest money and precious time.

If you've read Swix's or other companies' materials on ski preparation, you can estimate how long it will take minimal professional preparation of one pair: cleaning with soft paraffin (application, removal with a plastic scraper, brushing), then applying 1-2 layers of weather paraffin (application, cooling the ski to room temperature for at least 10 minutes), removal with a plastic scraper, brushing, polishing) . That is, for half an hour at least you will be messing with one pair. Plus, additional "pleasures" - the smell (though not strong), scraped paraffin on the floor. If you have carpets on the floor - the end of the carpets. Once a friend and I prepared skis at his house, rolled up the carpet, then, of course, removed everything, but some remnants of paraffin, apparently, remained on the floor, and the carpet began to slide wildly ... I remember the kind words of his wife ... In short, we need a place where to turn around and not disturb anyone for at least 30-40 minutes, otherwise the remnants of paraffin will be smashed with their feet throughout the apartment, especially in winter, when, due to dryness and static electricity, these remnants strive to stick to everything. It happens that while you are fiddling with the preparation, all the desire to ride disappears at home. This is only for "turned" fanatic skiers. Fortunately, there are alternative options, cheap and good in terms of results, which will be written about in the following sections.

In order to have an idea about the process of professional ski preparation, read A. Grushin's article "How to prepare skis?" from the magazine "Ski racing" No. 5. Or pick up the SWIX Nordic ski preparation brochure from Fischer.

Ski waxes

Lubricants come in a variety of types. Most often, paraffins are used, and in professional sports accelerators (powders or pressed), emulsions, pastes, etc. are also used. Such lubricants are quite expensive, and are consumed quickly enough. Therefore, if you are not going to race professionally, then do not take expensive imported lubricants. In most cases, domestic ones are no worse, and often better (except that some go faster than imported ones). The shelf life of paraffins is practically unlimited. But it doesn't make sense to take too much. And many different brands and types are also not needed - the problem of choice inevitably arises - which is better for today's weather ... In professional lubrication, this is solved by hauling paraffins, but lovers do not need to torture themselves with a choice.

If the climate in the area where you live is humid, then you are better off buying fluorinated paraffins. For example, for Moscow, where air humidity in winter is most often above 50%. If the humidity is usually below 50%, then you will be fine with fluorine-free paraffins.

From inexpensive domestic ones, we can mention Uktus, Luch, VISTI, MVIS, FESTA paraffins. For Moscow, you can take the MVIS Marathon kit - it will suit you perfectly. (These greases are rolled back just in the Moscow region, and they go well there). It is inexpensive (almost 50-60 rubles), and rolls well in most cases. This is a set of light fluoride paraffins (with a small amount of fluorine) for three temperature ranges. It is also worth taking pills - the MVIS accelerator. They have for sunny weather No. 238 for a temperature of -9 + 5, it lasts up to 100 km. It is not often sunny weather, in which it is really good, but it will go on cloudy, although worse. In my opinion, its main advantage for an amateur is the ease of application and durability of the lubricant. Once smeared in a cold way - you can ride for a month. It costs about 350 rubles, but it is spent very economically - enough for many years.

For humid climates, fluorinated gels, pastes, sprays, or emulsions are good. Apply to a sliding surface with a cotton swab or spray, dry or warm with a hair dryer, then polish. Fast and convenient. Disadvantages: expensive, quickly consumed, last up to 10-15 km.

Ski waxes

Lovers can be smeared easier. In order not to fool my head, I will give the most simple rule: for most sub-zero weather conditions and inexpensive holding ointments (Uktus, MVIS, VISTI, inexpensive (without fluorine) imported SWIX, START, RODE, etc.) you need to put an ointment, the lower temperature limit the range of which is 3-4 degrees higher than the current temperature. For example, if now -5, then put the ointment -1 + 1 or -2-0. Since the condition of the snow, and hence the holding, depends not only on temperature, but also on air humidity, wind, old or new snow, and even the region, always take a plastic rubbing (the so-called "cork") and a warmer ointment with you and colder than the one that was smeared at home. If you do not get into the ointment, then if it slows down too much - put a colder one on top, it does not hold well - warmer. (To improve grip, you can also lengthen the lubrication zone of the pad forward towards the tip of the ski.) Get lubed in a couple of minutes, and you will be happy to ride the rest of the time. Since snow is different everywhere, for a particular region this rule can be adjusted in terms of the value of the shift in the temperature of the ointment relative to the air temperature. Don't be afraid to experiment and you'll quickly find the best fit.

For an amateur, 3-4 jars of ointment are enough, covering the temperature range from +3 to -15 degrees. If you are smearing at home, then before applying a new holding ointment, it is advisable to remove the remnants of the old ointment with a plastic scraper. It is better to apply the ointment in 2-3 thin layers, rubbing each with a cork.

Liquid ointments are often called klisters. The klister is applied in a thin strip on both sides of the groove and leveled with a plastic scraper (it is difficult to do in the cold, it is better at home).

Klister may be needed for positive temperatures. But he gets very dirty. Before you put your skis in a bag when you go skiing, wrap them in plastic so as not to ruin the bag. In addition, after skiing, the klister thaws and if the skis are vertical, then it begins to slowly flow down them. So after skiing, it is better to remove the klister immediately with a wash (gasoline, or even a scraper and a dry rag).

In sub-zero temperatures, solid ointments usually work well. But under certain weather conditions, you may encounter some problems:

· Podlip. At transient temperatures (about 0 degrees) and with fresh, especially falling, snow, you may encounter a "stick" - the snow will stick to the ointment and turn into a thick snowball under the block.

· Icing (freezing) of the ointment. At negative temperatures (more often at transitional temperatures of -2 -0, but it also happens at -25), "icing" of the ointment may begin - snow crystals, instead of completely leaving the ointment layer after a push, begin to break off, leaving the tips in the ointment, and on an ice crust appears on its surface. More often this is due to the fact that the ointment is softer (warmer) than necessary. It can also happen if you start skiing right after leaving the house, when the skis are even warmer than the surrounding air. If the air temperature is below 0 degrees, but the snowflakes on the ski turn into water, it’s too early to ski. In addition, the uncooled ointment can quickly come off. Allow skis (and wax) to cool to ambient temperature for 10-15 minutes.

· The condition of the snow in the track and outside it can be different, so the ointment, which allowed you to roll normally in the track, can slow down a lot when leaving it. You can also feel the difference in grip and glide when riding in sunny areas and in shady areas such as in the woods.

Necessary tools for preparing skis and their substitutes

If you take skis with a racing base (sometimes called a sliding surface), which is made of high molecular weight sintered plastic, then the main tool is a ski iron, the rest can be depicted from improvised means. The fact is that a household iron has a very large hysteresis loop at the thermostat - paraffin either smokes or barely melts. And at a high temperature, you automatically burn out the base (sliding surface), that is, you melt the pores, and the paraffin stops being absorbed into the base. And the point to buy expensive skis disappears (see Steve Poulin's article "Use the iron correctly"). A good ski iron can be bought for $60-70.

New skis, regardless of whether you later use a hot paraffin wax or not, it is still better to process using an iron for the first time. In extreme cases, you can get by with a household iron (just don’t ruin a good one, take an old condo one, without holes in the sole). In this case, be careful - have a large damp cloth handy. If suddenly the paraffin smokes, you can quickly reduce the temperature of the soleplate of the iron by applying a rag to it and avoid burning the plastic. Primary treatment is performed with soft plus paraffin without fluorine, the melting point of which is 65-75 degrees, which also reduces the risk of burnout. Set the temperature regulator of the iron to the minimum at which the paraffin melts normally, and begin to warm up the ski, moving the iron smoothly and without pressure from the toe to the heel of the ski. Make sure that it does not overheat, and that there is a layer of paraffin between the iron and the ski all the time. It is better to lead a household iron sideways, with a wide part of the sole. This option is suitable if you do not plan to constantly apply paraffins with an iron.

· Plastic scraper for removing excess paraffin. You can buy a branded one for 3-4 dollars, or you can replace it with a piece of a transparent school ruler, plexiglass, etc. 2-4 mm thick. In this case, you need to do the following: put a fine sandpaper on a flat surface with the abrasive up, and trim the ruler on the sandpaper so that the edges are sharp and straight, and there are no burrs and bumps. In addition, grind the corners of the ruler on the skin in a semicircle (the edges should remain sharp). Fit these corners to the groove of your skis so you can skim the wax out of the groove later. If you have several pairs of skis, then adjust the angles for different pairs. Look in the store for branded scrapers to get an idea of \u200b\u200bwhat should come out in the end.

· Nylon brush, used to remove paraffin residue after removing it with a scraper. If you will be using a hot wax application, then a brush that is hard enough is essential. For this, I had to use household brushes such as "ironing" or a hand brush with stiff nylon bristles. "Sand is an unimportant substitute for oats," but you can also remove excess paraffin.

· Coarse Fibertex (fibertex), for example, SWIX T265 - is needed when preparing new skis to remove lint from plastic remaining after machine grinding of the sliding surface. (Actually, the residual nap will come off on its own after a few months of riding). Fibertex is not too expensive. Approximately the same in appearance household abrasive plates may contain not such an abrasive, and only add a pile. But there are also almost complete analogues. But to buy it or not to buy ... Probably not necessary.

· Fiberlene (fiberlen) - non-woven material used for the final polishing of skis. In general, it is not needed, you can polish the skis with an old nylon stocking. Or a piece of felt. Finally, an old woolen sock.

· Sanding paper SWIX No. 100, used for sanding classic ski lasts, so that the wax adheres better. Need not. Any household skin will do the appropriate grit. In general, sanding under the block is necessary if you run more than 20-30 km or on ice.

· Razor scraper Swix T-89, used to remove the pile - the amateur does not need it.

· Metal cycle. It is unlikely that you will scrape yourself - the process requires skill, and, most importantly, a ski machine in which the ski is rigidly attached. Modern skis are produced with an applied structure, which should not be scraped. The cycle is only needed to remove burnt plastic. And spoiling a ski during scraping is as easy as shelling pears - a hand trembled - and here is a wave or a scratch. Lovers don't need it.

· Knurling is used to apply structure to a sliding surface. Lovers don't need it. A universal structure applied at the factory is sufficient.

· A copper brush is needed to remove frosty paraffins. If you are willing to put up with a slight loss of glide by using a warmer wax, you don't need it. If you apply hard frosty paraffin, you will have to take it. Or use a gel or frost accelerator that applies in a very thin layer and does not require the use of a stiff brush.

· Wash, used to remove the holding ointment under the block. Also suitable for washing off the sliding paraffin, if it is not possible to use hot cleaning of the skis. Preferably. This is generally a useful thing in everyday life - that she just did not have to clean it off.

· Rubbing (cork), used for leveling holding ointments. Plastic is better suited for ointments. Cork can be used to apply accelerators. Will definitely be needed.

Additional ski accessories

It's a good idea to take Velcro ski bundles. There is less risk that the sliding surface of the ski during transportation will be damaged by poles or bindings of another pair. If you go to the ski track not far, then in this case you can carry skis without a case. O Skis that are tied together are harder to get dirty. The skis are tied in such a way that the soft lining of the ligament is between the sliding surfaces of the skis, they should not touch.

Rags. To process the skis, you will need old cotton rags. They wipe the sole of the iron dry after applying paraffins, clean the scrapers and other tools, remove the holding ointment using a wash, brush off the remaining paraffin after passing through with a scraper and brushes, and so on. Even polishing the ski after applying paraffins, at worst, can be done with a rag without strong pressure.

How to store skis

Simplified ski lubrication technologies

You can read about the intricacies of applying lubricants in a hot way (using a ski iron) in Steve Paulin's article "Use the iron correctly" from HP No. ... In particular, he does not recommend the use of household irons for this purpose - you can easily burn through the plastic of expensive skis. But you can apply slip lubricants without an iron.

Boiling water and a well-conducting ladle are enough to melt low-melting paraffin. Of course, you can’t put frosty paraffin in this way, but there will be a 100% guarantee against burning the base. Change the water as it cools down. Make several slow passes from the toe to the end of the ski. But keep in mind that this method has a significant drawback - you can accidentally turn the ladle over and scald. Therefore, for permanent use, it is still better to purchase a ski iron.

One more way. Paraffin can be applied by intensive rubbing. First of all, clean the ski. If there is a clear layer of old paraffin on the ski, then lightly go through with a plastic scraper and / or a nylon brush. Rub a clean ski with a very thin continuous layer of paraffin bar (this is convenient to control by looking at the reflection of the ski from the window). Not even necessarily a completely continuous layer. Then take a cork rub and rub it intensively in both directions for 1-2 minutes. The generated heat is enough to partially fuse the paraffin into the base. Then go lightly brushing from the toe to the heel of the ski. The time spent is minimal. There is practically no dirt, the machine is not required. On normal snow will keep at least 10 km.

There is such a thing - thermal rubbing from the TOKO company - this is a piece of dense felt with a fine structure, glued to sponge rubber. This combination allegedly generates enough heat to apply the accelerators cold. It is imitated by an insole made of dense synthetic felt wrapped around a small flat piece of wood. It can also be used as an alternative to cork rubbing when applying paraffins in a cold way.

What ski wax to buy for ski preparation

Depending on the level of your training and the thickness of your wallet, there are three sets of lubricants that are enough for skiing.

Minimum.

Solid holding ointment

Here is what is included in the required minimum kit:

3 - 4 jars (briquettes) holding ointment covering a temperature range from 0 to -15 degrees (adjust depending on the region), and one cork or synthetic rub.

Synthetic cork

Ointments and rubbing will cost you 100 - 200 rubles. If money allows, buy an additional plastic scraper (about 90 rubles) and a bottle of branded wash (about 300 rubles). However, about the scraper and its substitutes was written above. You can do without flushing. As without it at all, that is, remove the old ointment with a scraper, and replacing it with a bottle of kerosene or gasoline. (To clean the skis clean, which, in general, is completely optional, you can use a piece of cotton wool soaked in gasoline. And the main "household" advantage of the wash is the absence of a strong smell.)

Just please keep in mind that with such a lubricant (solid ointments) you should not go on the ski track at above zero temperatures, because with a plus you will need liquid holding ointments (klisters).

Sufficient.

Holding liquid ointment

This kit will allow you to competently and fully care for your skis. This kit is enough for the eyes not only for comfortable riding through the forest in any weather, but also to participate in most mass ski races such as "Ski Track of Russia". It includes the same as in the minimum kit, plus a set of inexpensive paraffins, an iron, a brush, a wash can, a plastic scraper, a set of inexpensive liquid ointments. Such a kit will cost a more substantial amount - from 3000 rubles. It is highly desirable to add a special ski machine to this kit - it will allow you not only to prepare your skis very decently, but also to enjoy this process. (If you wish, you can make the machine yourself from improvised pieces of wood, scraps of a tourist rug or something similar, and a few pieces of iron and screws to secure the skis).

Advanced.

This kit may be needed by a rather advanced and trained skier, so that in many respects the following information may already be known to him from previous publications in "LS", from a coach or from some other sources. However, we provide this list. To all of the above, you can add a set of holding ointments with fluorine content(solid and liquid), as well as paraffins with fluorine content(This lubricant is especially effective in high humidity conditions). You can also buy antistatic paraffins (needed to remove static electricity from the sliding surface of skis), accelerators (powdered and pure fluorocarbons in the form of tablets), knurling (to apply a weather-appropriate structure to the sliding surface), sprays and emulsions. Also, keep in mind that advanced skiers try to have lubricants from different companies in their arsenal, since ointments often from completely different manufacturers work well in different weather. In general, this kit is already for an advanced skier, and its cost increases many times compared to the cost of the first two kits combined.

Everyone knows that skis need to be lubricated before use - this way they glide easier on the snow, and the athlete feels more confident and comfortable during the walk. Many beginners do not do this procedure on their own, preferring to leave the grooming equipment to professionals - a great option if you have extra money. It's actually very easy to prepare your skis for skiing at home with some lube and a few simple tools. How exactly?

First of all, the skis need to be cleaned of dirt and remnants of old paraffin. A brush, a scraper and two straight arms are used for this. If you got the inventory used and unkempt, it also makes sense to go over the lower sliding surface with sandpaper. Plastic skis usually do not require polishing - but old wooden ones usually need it. Then we directly apply the lubricant ... by the way, a few important words about lubricants. They are presented on the market in a huge variety and a wide price range, but only professional athletes need to be well versed in the brands - any beginner and amateur is suitable, even the most inexpensive ones. Without fail, you will need paraffin slip lubricant, and holding lubricant will also not be superfluous: the first is applied in the front and back of the skis, and the second in the center (in the block area). From the first it is clear, it is thanks to her that the skis will glide easily without getting bogged down. Why is holding lubricant needed? It just serves the opposite purpose - "sticks" to the snow at the moment of the greatest load, so that it is easier for you to make a push.

Another important point: you don’t have to lubricate the skis often. If you use them two or three times a season, take care before the first trip - and that's it. Well, if you ride constantly, then, of course, the lubricant will have to be updated several times over the winter. A characteristic sign that it is time to take up the iron again is a white coating on the sliding layer.

What kind of iron? Paraffin is a thick substance, and when cold, it will not smear well on a ski. Therefore, it is heated using a special tool, which can also be bought along with lubricants at a sporting goods store. You can, however, get by with improvised means: pour boiling water into the most ordinary enameled mug and smooth the waxed ski with it for a couple of minutes so that the lubricant is absorbed and lies in a thin, even layer. However, if we're talking about how right lubricating skis at home is more correct (and more convenient) with an iron. Just do not use a household iron, you do not need to get it dirty - otherwise, traces of grease will then appear on clothes.

Finished with smoothing - take out the skis in the cold so that the paraffin froze. Half an hour is enough, and they will be ready to ride.

Note. Our glorious grandfathers and grandmothers used heated pork fat to rub wooden skis. This is not as convenient as modern lubricants, but it will also work on occasion. If, for example, you want to ride right now, urgently and suddenly, and there is no time for long manipulations, just apply hot lard on the ski and rub it intensively with a piece of felt for about five minutes.

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Skiing is no less pleasant than skating and rollerblading. But ski equipment needs constant care, lubrication with special compounds. After all, even professionals often have to deal with improper sliding on the snow, when the skis begin to slide (give back) back. The reason is the wrong choice of lubricants. When choosing, winter skiers should take into account the quality of the snow (weather conditions, air temperature outside) and know how to properly lubricate the skis, which ointments will be the most suitable, taking into account the temperature outside.

It is necessary to process equipment for:

reducing the force of friction with snow;
improving the sliding effect;
protect the wood material from moisture ingress.

Lubrication is important for any models: plastic, wood, semi-plastic. But novice athletes neglect this rule, considering the procedure useless. When skiing on snow, a friction force appears, which directly depends on the condition of the snow and the quality of the equipment. To reduce the friction force means to treat the skis with a special material (ointments, paraffin) so that they do not give back during pushes.

If you treat skis with ointments in a timely manner, then the life of the product will be significantly increased.

How to lubricate different types of skis?

In sports goods there are different models for beginners (professionals): paraffins, aerosols, ointments. To understand how you can smear skis at home, it is worth highlighting the commercially available lubricant options:

liquid (sprays, fluorine-containing solvents);
solid (ointments, wax with paraffin) for processing equipment in dry snow, at a temperature of -1 and below.

When choosing a composition, it is worth taking into account the consistency of the lubricant, the street temperature. If it is above zero, it is better to treat the equipment with liquid products. If below zero, then taking into account the color of the grease, which is indicated by the manufacturers on the packaging:

purple, suitable at temperatures from 0 to -2 ° C;
green -5 °С;
dark green -10 °С;
black - 5 °C;
blue -2-8 °С.

According to the percentage of fluorine, ointments are distinguished: low fluoride, high fluoride.

Many professionals and beginners-amateurs today prefer universal brands - Visti, Swix, Briko.

Skis for skating, classic skiing

The skating option involves fast movement on the snow, so it is recommended to treat the equipment with ointments, paraffins to achieve a comfortable glide. Rub the soles of the skis, regardless of the course (classic, skating), as follows:

Preheat the iron according to the temperature indicated on the package.
Make notches on the bar, drip a few drops of paraffin.
Walk on the surface of the ski with an iron from heel to toe until a uniform sheen appears.
Remove excess composition with a scraper.
Carry out polishing as the first layer hardens.

The classic move involves a comfortable sliding forward, holding back. So that there is no kickback, it is worth purchasing a holding compound with processing pads under the boot and forward 30-35 cm.

It is necessary to carry out the cleansing process up to the heel of the boot:

Apply a solid holding compound under the last.
Treat the slip zone with paraffin.
Walk on the surface with an iron.
Wait a couple of minutes.
Go through with fine sandpaper.
Grind with synthetic (silicone) formwork.

It is better to make 2-3 thin layers, melting each one separately with an iron, so that a one-time ski treatment is enough for about 50 km along the way.

Cross-country and alpine skiing

Cross-country skis need to be able to glide flawlessly. Applicable solid (semi-solid) compositions: slip ointments (holding), paraffins, powders, sprays. The procedure is as follows:

Clean the surface of the equipment from dirt, wash it with soap.
Treat with a degreaser.
Apply a coat of lubricant hot.
Leave until cool.
Remove excess with a scraper.
Walk with a sponge to evenly distribute liquid paraffin.

Compositions for the purpose of processing cross-country skis must be suitable for the weather, be marked 3 degrees above street temperature.

If mountain model lube is used, the guideline is as follows:

Treat the block area in 2-3 layers.
Rub the composition with light movements.
Leave to harden for 20 minutes.

Treating running equipment with ointment means:

Attach to the stand.
Carry out hot cleaning, melt the paraffin.
Smooth it out with an iron, go over it with a hard scraper from above, not allowing it to harden, so that the layer is no more than 1 mm.
Leave to harden for 0.5 hours.
Go through with a nylon sponge.
Clean the surface until it starts to shine.

plastic models

Plastic skis do not need to be treated with compounds along the entire length, since ointments and paraffins can be quickly used up, and running performance will not improve. It is reasonable to apply the compositions exclusively on the sliding part of the block and towards the toe. The average length is 4-5 cm.

To prevent the skis from slipping back, instructions for applying the ointment:

Treat the surface.
Press down with a cork for shine, uniform layer application.
Remove excess with a scraper.

If the weather is warm outside, then a lightweight option for ski treatment to prevent snow from sticking is liquid ointment in tubes. It is recommended to lubricate 15-20 minutes before skiing and better - in warmth, applying a uniform layer of 1 mm to the bases of the skis, after which you can expose it to the cold (for 30 minutes) so that the ointment solidifies thoroughly and seizes with plastic.

Plastic must not be treated with caustic solutions (acetone). After walking, it is better to lubricate with liquid lubricant, remove the residue with a scraper. If a whitish coating appears, then the composition has lost its properties. This is an occasion to repair the skis: remove the old layer of ointment using gasoline (turpentine) and apply a fresh, new one.

If you treat a plastic surface with paraffin for sliding (fixing), then you will need an iron, a fastening machine, and scrapers. Although experts do not recommend lubricating plastic models with paraffin. But in the absence of good lubrication at hand, the technique is as follows:

fix the skis in the machine;
warm up the paraffin with a special iron;
drip a few drops on a slippery base;
iron with an iron so that the paraffin particles are thoroughly melted.

Semi-plastic models

Semi-plastic models are usually covered with plastic exclusively on the outside in order to protect against wear inside the tree. The handling is identical to that for plastic skis to avoid kickback.

The tree is processed exclusively in a dry, clean form. Instructions for paraffin treatment (candles, tablets):

Place your skis on a stable, level base.
Remove dirt with a rag.
Heat up the iron.
Start processing from the edges.
Apply 2-3 drops of wax to the iron, melt.
Walk over the entire surface, performing even movements back and forth, slightly pressing against the bottom of the skis.
Wait for the wax layer to dry.
Go through with a scraper.
Take equipment out to the cold.

Combined skis

Combined models are used for free and classic style. They are treated with ointments, but it is important to consider the running style in order to use lubricating compounds for their intended purpose.

Of course, ordinary paraffin is quite suitable for lubrication. It is advised to select inexpensive universal options, in which the temperature range is quite wide.

High-quality paraffins will not help if you do not take into account the basic rules of lubrication. Tips from experts:

Treat with compositions at room temperature, after drying, after cleaning the surface.
Apply in 2-3 layers of solid options, rub each one separately, cool well.
Carry out lubrication regularly (at least 3 times per winter), increasing the service life.
If a light gray coating appears, then you need to process it out of turn.
To carry out the procedure right at the time of skiing, you can use a lubricant in a can or a pasty version of it.
You can not strongly heat the sole of the ski with an iron, it is worth setting the minimum temperature on the device.
The classic move requires only the front (rear) of the ski to be held.
Strong glide of skis requires the selection of high temperature ointments. If they glide unimportantly, then the best option is to use ski waxes in a solid state.
Experts advise you to keep a diary and write down the shortcomings that appear when riding.
In order to avoid damage, it is important to store equipment and ointments in dry rooms, inaccessible to moisture, tightly tighten the tubes after use.

How to improve ski glide

The equipment will glide well only if it completely coincides with the structure of the snow. That is why, when choosing good equipment for skiing, it is important to take into account the climate of the area, the weather. The correspondence of the structures of the ointment with the slippery base of the skis should be maximum.

Grease residues must be removed with a scraper, then the surface should be treated with a special solvent. If you lubricate frequently (more than three times in a row), then it is likely that it will hardly be possible to thoroughly clean the areas of old grease without additional flushing.

Many people ask: is it necessary to prepare equipment, treat it with ointments and paraffin? To achieve the perfect glide in the snow, be sure to lubricate your gear before every outing. If there is no money to buy a good but expensive lubricant, you can use paraffin candles. If you decide to seriously engage in skiing, of course, it is better to stock up on lubricants for the future to ensure timely (quality) care of the equipment. Compliance with storage conditions will also significantly extend the operational life.

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