Let's see why the chain flies. There are two options: either you have a bent star on the system (the system is a front set of sprockets), or the speeds are poorly configured.

If you have bent star on the system, in this case, you can continue moving simply by switching to another speed at which the star is not bent. But if you use all the speeds while driving, then in the future you will have to replace a bent star. If the system is collapsible, you can only replace one damaged star. If the system is non-separable, you will have to change the entire system along with the connecting rod.

If everything is fine with your connecting rods (what is a connecting rod?), it means that the speeds are badly configured. On each of the derailleurs, both front and rear, there are adjusting bolts that do not allow the chain to go beyond extreme speeds. If they are not adjusted correctly, the chain will fly off. If the chain flies off the largest star, then you need to screw in the bolt with the L index, which means low - the easiest gear.

You need to screw in until the stars on the switch are parallel to the large star. The same on the reverse side: if your chain flies off the smallest star, you need to screw in the bolt with the H (high) index.

Screw it in until the switch is parallel to the seventh speed.

If the front of the chain drops from the small star to the frame, then tighten the low bolt.

To properly adjust the bolt labeled low, you must set the most light speed on the bike and screw it in until there is a gap of 1 mm between the inner derailleur ring and the chain.

If the chain falls from the big star to the connecting rod, then screw in the high bolt.

To properly adjust the high bolt, you must set the bike to the highest great speed and twist it until there is a gap of 1 mm between the chain and the outer frame of the derailleur.

These were the most common causes of chain slip. Now let's talk about her breakup.

2. Broken chain

The most common cause of a broken chain is shifting gears under load, such as when you are driving uphill. When broken, a chain link can either rivet or break. If the link is riveted, you can try to rivet it back. To do this, you will need a chain puller, so it is best to always carry one with you. If the link is broken, it is necessary to remove it and the link adjacent to it, too, and rivet the chain using the same puller.

Putting the chain back is not difficult. To do this, pull back the rear derailleur while loosening the chain and place it on the front sprocket.

Today you learned why the chain can fly off and break, as well as how to solve these two problems with your own hands.

Don't miss the next issue, stay tuned to Slenergy!

Music used in video:

JK Soul - I know this (Original Edit)

Bicycle. On a bike like this, this is a serious problem. Don't move forward or slow down. It's still good if the wheel does not jam.

That is why on single-speed bikes you need to install an additional front. At a minimum, it will always help to slow down in an emergency with a bike chain.

Told him on the phone how to put it back. It seems to have worked out, I came home and began to sort it out and eliminated the very reason that led to this. I decided to describe everything, since this problem often arises, and sometimes it has to be solved in the field.

First of all, you need to understand: why it flies.

Reasons why the chain flies off the sprockets on a bicycle:

1. Weak tension.

   Most common cause related to single speed and multi speed bikes.

   How to check the tension of a bike chain? Its sag in a single-speed bike should be in the center between the stars of a maximum of 10-15mm.

   This is described in more detail in the article and we will not repeat it here.

2. Curvature of one or more chain links. Usually one link is enough. It arises from blows during careless handling or falls of cyclists.

   A single-speed bike chain is stronger and there such problems are extremely rare. With more gentle multi-speed ones, this happens, but it also cannot be said that very often. It cannot be cured. It is necessary to either remove or change the link, if the length of the chain allows, or replace the entire chain. If the chain is already partially worn out, it is better to immediately change it to a new one.

   Aligning the link with a hammer on an anvil or pliers is unrealistic. It is ideal not to align it directly, but in this form it will still accelerate the wear of the sprockets and fly off them

3. Deformed or worn sprocket teeth in the system or cassette.

   Deformation can only occur from impacts, and wear, especially on c bikes, is a natural and inevitable process.

   In both cases, it is better to change the sprockets, and if they are already not the newest, there is a reason to replace the entire cassette at once.

   I would like to clarify one more thing. Putting the crooked teeth of the sprockets into place “with the help of a hammer and some kind of mother” is, at first glance, a simple and obvious thing, but not grateful and often useless. Although the craftsmen do everything, but then you will ride such a bike, so think for yourself. It will not work out perfectly evenly: it means that the wear rate of the chain will increase, and the risk of dropping it from the sprockets will remain.

4. The chain is very stretched.

   This is very rare on single speed bikes, but common on bikes. How to correctly determine chain wear is described and we will not repeat it either.

5. Front or rear derailleur set incorrectly.

   This only happens on shift bikes. The problem manifests itself when, when pedaling, the bike chain itself jumps to another star. In this case, you need to set the switches correctly. This is usually done with two adjusting bolts, marked with the letters L and H. But we will not consider all the nuances of this process within the framework of this article, especially since there are a lot of materials and videos on the network on this issue.

   Here, for example, is a video on setting up a rear derailleur on a bike.

Now about how to put the chain that has flown off on a single-speed bicycle into place.

The idea is: First, she completely puts on one of the stars (usually on the back, but it can also be on the front) and throws herself on the second sprocket (front or, respectively, back) to lie on part of the teeth. Further, when pedaling in the direction of travel, the chain is captured by the remaining teeth of the sprocket and completely rests on the entire star and is thus put on.

The algorithm of actions when putting on a chain is approximately the following.

1. Turn the bike upside down by placing it on and , or raise it so that rear wheel rotated freely.
2. If your bike has a bike chain protector, it's best to remove it. So it will be more convenient and easier to get to the front star. If you are too lazy to shoot, or you can already reach the asterisk - well, it's up to you.
3. Pull the chain completely over the rear sprocket. (If you haven't removed the guard, then it may be more convenient to fully put it on the front sprocket).
4. Put the chain on the front sprocket as it rotates and pedal forward as you go. When pedaling, she herself throws herself on the remaining teeth.

Here you need to understand that if the bike is upside down, then the chain is thrown onto lower part stars (in relation to you) and, scrolling the star itself by the pedal clockwise, we throw it on the entire front sprocket. If you start chaining upper part stars in relation to you, you will not be able to pedal - in fact, you will have to press the brake.

If the bike is in the normal position (wheels down), then again put the chain on top of the star and pedal clockwise - as if you were driving forward.

Everything - the chain is dressed.

How to Increase Chain Preload on a Single Speed ​​Bike

So that the next time the chain does not fly off again due to sagging, it is better to immediately increase its tightness.

To do this: Loosen the nuts on the dropouts just a bit to allow the rear wheel to move a little and pull it back. After setting the correct tension of the bike chain, slowly tighten the nuts. Just do not warp the rear wheel and check that it rotates in a strictly vertical plane and does not touch the frame and fender feathers.

It is not necessary to pull the bike chain very hard, the pedals will spin tightly. There should be a slight sag, but a maximum of 1-1.5 cm.

If the rear wheel has nowhere else to move -.

Bicycle chain

The chain in a bicycle is one of the key components of the transmission. It is the content of the chain in perfect condition and guarantees adequate operation of the entire mechanism. When buying a bicycle, no one will choose a new chain, but over time, replacing a part that has become unusable is inevitable. How to choose the perfect chain for your bike? How many chains do you need to have in a "bicycle" farm? How to change the chain on your own, so as not to contact the bicycle master for every trifle? These skills and knowledge will not be superfluous.

Data windows located in the upper left corner of the video: This block contains two white windows with a blue line representing very important data. In the lower window, you see the pattern of oscillation movement on the axis: the blue line indicates the pattern of forces applied to the axis.

This pattern of intense and powerful vibration is directly transmitted to the tire contact areas, causing the tire's road contact patches to decrease and increase along the road like a ball ball periodically, following the same blue line pattern. The same pattern of powerful vibration is also transferred directly to the rider's bony joints, causing fatigue. During our unbalanced wheel testing, we also uncovered and documented new and disturbing evidence never before seen by the bicycle industry.

Chain: choice and competent care

For people who still remember, the suggestion “choose a new chain for a bicycle” sounds a bit wild. For some reason, then the chains served almost longer than the bike itself. The answer is simple: those bikes had only one speed, because the chain was constantly in a calm state and did not wear out as quickly as on modern bikes. Now even the most budget iron bike is equipped with the ability to change gears, which leads to chain wear. Modern chains are no doubt stronger and more reliable if they are able to withstand such loads in such operation.

We decided to name and terminology some of the negative results we recorded, which can be seen in this test data video, for example. Here we explain the chain of events that can be started by as little as 6 grams of unbalanced wheel weight, which most bike, wheel and tire manufacturers consider minor and harmless.

The entire wheel from the axle to the outer perimeter oscillates and generates centrifugal forces, which can, for example, be 7 kg in the front wheel and 10 kg in the rear wheel - imagine sledgehammers! Now that the innocent 6 grams have started a few problems cascading through the bike and bike wheels.

• Then a cascade of really bad things starts to unfold.
• Now the tiny 6 grams have triggered and become an uncontrollable cascade of energy.

This means that even if a 90kg rider mounts this bike, the shaking is so powerful that it can cause the tire patch to still bounce down the road like a ball.

So, it's time to replace the chain on your own bike: what should you pay attention to, which chain to choose? Most popular manufacturers are KMC, Shimano and SRAM. In the lines of these manufacturers, you can find chains of various prices and various qualities. All these chains can easily replace each other and, if the cyclist has a desire, he can sort through the chains indefinitely until he finds the one that will completely suit him.

When in doubt, put the bike on a stand, have 5 or 10 adults hang on the bike as you spin the rear wheel to 80 km/h, and have all the adults try to stop the shaking. You will find that this is not possible as the violent shaking goes through all adults like Jello. This only happens with the rear wheel.

Imagine the front wheel doing the same thing at the same time! Dynamic Speed ​​Balance not only eliminates all the debilitating symptoms caused by unbalanced wheels, but raises levels of efficiency, performance, control and rolling safety to new levels never thought possible in the industry. The dynamic speed balance ensures that the mass has no oscillation, so it can continue to move smoothly and quickly without interruption.

ADVICE! For a cassette of 7-8 stars, you should purchase a chain for 8 gears, for 9 - for 9 and so on.

When purchasing a chain, you should pay attention to the labeling: usually companies put information about the quality of the chain in the numerical designation of the model. For example, CN-HG53 will be much simpler than CN-7701.

Once you've established that this isn't an issue, it's time to head to your local bike shop. You may need a new chain, new chainrings, a new cassette and new rims for the rear derailleur. It will be approximately £100 please. This is what chain wear wears out if you don't catch it early enough: it ruins the rest of the drivetrain. If you notice it early, you can only replace the chain.

All chains get badly worn sooner or later - sooner if they don't like it. The metal of the bushings and pins wears out, so the pins become even more spaced apart. It's not literally stretching, but you often hear the process called stretching. As the chain lengthens, the gaps in the chain do not mesh properly with the transmission teeth.

For adequate operation of the chain, it is important to be able to notice in time the moment when the chain already needs to be replaced or repaired, but the rest of the transmission is still safe and sound. Excessively worn chain not only threatens with driving problems, but also gradually “kills” the stars: in this case, you will have to change not only the chain itself, but also a rather expensive mechanism - the cassette, and sometimes the system. The most truthful way to determine chain wear should be considered not mileage (sometimes 100 km of off-road and dirt country walks will pass for 1000 km of calm city bike rides), but the length of 24 links at the chain:

This is the point of no return: the entire transmission is damaged and needs to be replaced. There is a way to prevent this: measure your chain. Once the chain is 75% longer, it's time for a new one. Once this is more than 1% more, the rest of the transmission will be worn out and will almost certainly need to be replaced too. Less than 5% wear is excellent, even with 10 speed gearboxes. More than 1% wear and it can still work fine if your bike only has one chainring and one sprocket - or e.g.

Measuring less than one percent wear may seem like the work of lab technicians. All bikes use a half-inch step chain. This is half an inch from the center of one pin to the center of the other. The distance between the two pins, i.e. the complete chain link, which is hinged and has both inner and outer side plates, is one inch. So 12 links is 12 inches. Place a steel ruler under the chain, with a zero under your "start" pin. The 24th pin should be at the 12" mark, assuming the chain has been disassembled.

• in the normal state, this figure is 304.8 mm;
• 306.5-307.5 mm - a reason to change the chain;
• 307.5-308 mm - signals not only chain wear, but also problems with sprockets;
• More than 308 mm - serious difficulties with the chain, cassette and system status.

Another way to “by eye” find out how worn out the chain is the following: after installing the chain on a large star, it should be lightly pulled with your fingers and check how many teeth are visible on the chain. If you can see two teeth on the star, the chain is worn out, but still suitable for riding, and three teeth indicate that the chain is completely worn out and needs to be replaced immediately. Also, extraneous sounds from a lubricated chain often signal its wear.

This is a simple measuring tool with pegs for 75% and 1% wear. You will hook one end of the chain and leave the other end of the chain. If it stands as shown in the picture, the chain is worn less than indicated on the tool. If the pin falls into the gap so that it is close to the chain, the chain puts on the specified amount - or more. If the chain is 75% worn, replace it. You should be able to continue using sprockets, cassettes and rims for a while longer.

When you measure the chain, make sure it is slightly taut. The rear derailleur will do it for you. On a single chain and sprocket bike, apply light pressure to one pedal with the rear wheel on the floor. This will stop the top chain travel from sagging the chain.

Replacing the chain on a bicycle: remove and install correctly

Experts advise following some simple recommendations that will allow the bike owner to avoid possible problems with the chain:

• do not drive in heavily skewed gears;
• done on time will help you protect it from an early breakdown.
• do not use thick lubricants and products like WD40 as chain lubrication;
• use multiple replacement chains to extend their life.

The frequency with which you need to check your chain will depend on your weekly mileage, the conditions you cycle in, and how clean and well lubricated you keep your chain. Every two weeks should be enough. Muddy mountain bikes will go through the chains faster than road-only bikes. If your bike has a fully enclosed chainring, a protected chain can last for years.

Take your bike to a local shop or do it yourself. this is not difficult. The most important thing is to get the right one. Because the chains use the same half-inch pitch, the width and fine details vary. The 10-speed chain is thinner than the 8-speed chain and meshes with thinner transmission teeth.

Chain lock.

If the chain still needs to be replaced, it is important to approach this issue competently and skillfully. Before starting work, check which chain is on the bike: with a lock or not. As a rule, chains with locks are only on children's or cheap bikes. For a similar design, you just need to find the lock and remove it with a simple screwdriver.

Count the sprockets on the bike cassette. This is the whole chain you need. Otherwise, chains up to and including 8 tend to be interchangeable - in terms of speeds and brands. Gates does not recommend modifying frames as doing so will void the frame manufacturer's warranty and could result in injury or death. The belt cannot be broken and reconnected, so for a standard rear triangle, you will need a way to get the belt through the frame. The belts also need to be adjusted for installation and tension.

Thus the reason for the purpose built frame. Cleanliness - No Lubrication means no greasy dirt buildup, cleaning hands, clothes and kids. Lightweight - the entire system, 2 sprockets and belt, weighs less than a conventional chain. This means you don't need to retension the belt or replace the belt due to stretch. Consistent Efficiency - The Carbon Drive belt provides consistent efficiency over the lifetime of the drive. On the contrary, chain efficiency decreases with wear and dirt.

Chain with pin.

The situation is more complicated if the bike has a chain without a lock, that is, with a pin. To work with it, you will definitely need a special tool - squeeze, which will allow you to quickly and easily remove the chain without damaging the links. The sequence for removing such a chain is as follows:

The belt also requires center distance adjustment for installation and correct tension. Methods include horizontally adjustable dropouts, eccentric bottom brackets, or eccentric hubs. Carbon driven sprockets are designed to fit many stems and hubs. Front sprockets include both 4-bolt and 5-bolt cranks.

For shared storage, Gates does not recommend winding. It is best to leave the belt in its original packaging until ready for use. However, if you want to carry around a spare strap, the proper winding is an option. Care must be taken not to damage the belt, please watch this video.

• It is necessary to select a chain segment for disassembly (experts advise choosing different segments for each new procedure with the same chain, since disassembly loosens them).
• Insert the chain into the release tool. You can do this like this: or using the seat, in which you can press in or press out the axle, or - in the second position, only the inner part of the sleeve is adjusted.
• Push the axle towards the reinforcing screw (the squeeze screw is turned with a handle).

IMPORTANT! During work, you should carefully monitor the absence of defects on the axis, because then it will be used in the assembly of the link.

The belt can interfere when pressed against the flanges on the chains. This may be due to sprocket misalignment, wheel misalignment, or drive overrun caused by damaged components. Spraying water on the belt can cause the drive to stop within minutes, but the permanent solution is to correct the alignment or replace damaged components. Another possible source of noise is a loose front sprocket. Using a thread lock on the sprocket bolts alleviates this problem.

In some cases, noise can occur when riding in muddy conditions, especially mountain biking, if sand and water temporarily stick to the belt. In most cases, simply rinsing the belt and pulleys after a ride will result in noise. If the noise persists, the solution is simple: spray the belt with water, wait for it to dry, and apply a thin coat of dry silicone spray on the tooth side of the belt.

Before installing the chain the exact length must be determined on the bike: if the length is insufficient, then the chain will not allow easy gear shifting, and if it is too long, it will hang out.

Chain installation on a bicycle - the procedure is simple and, with proper dexterity, is easy to perform, you just need to carefully perform the following steps:

Dry silicone dries instantly, helps drain grit, and doesn't affect belt durability. To fix this problem, use threadlocker on the sprocket bolts. Increasing the belt tension should fix this problem. Consult the bike manufacturer's recommendations or tension information. Usually jumping on a tooth does not cause significant damage to the belt, however, strong riders jumping off their teeth at very high loads may consider replacing the belt. Belt slippage at the proper tension can be a symptom of belt or sprocket wear and may be an indication that one or both need to be replaced.

• Install switches on small stars.
• We put the chain on the bike, taking into account the correct location of the tensioner rollers - the lower one bypasses on the left, and the upper one on the right.
• After the links are aligned and fixed with a screw, you can clamp the chain in the squeeze.
• Carefully press in the axle by slowly turning the squeeze handle: monitor the level of immersion relative to neighboring links.
• We check how the axis works - freely and without jamming, whether it protrudes.

Bicycle chain problems

One of the most common problems is chain slack. This process is due to the fact that the axles gradually wear out during movement, which leads to sagging of the chain. This process cannot actually be prevented, so it is simply necessary to remove extra links as it lengthens.

Chains are often replaced due to scratches and wear rather than actual failure. The drive belt does not stretch, so trouble-free operation remains the same throughout its entire service life. When the belt breaks away from the sprockets under tension, it is likely damaged and a replacement is recommended. If you're on the trail or away from home, resetting the belt can get you back under a light load. Be aware that if the tensile cords are damaged, the belt may not be able to handle the full load and will break if it is subjected to any significant load.

In order to shorten the chain you will need for the chain and pliers:

• We disconnect the chain, remove the squeeze.
• We determine the number of extra links (the best way is to pass the chain through large sprockets).
• We remove the extra links according to the principle of disconnecting the chain.
• We connect the chain and check its mobility.

Another difficulty is chain slip: Depending on the severity of this problem, the cyclist may experience either minor inconvenience while riding, or serious difficulties, leading to the likely loss of parts, injuries and accidents. Among the causes of chain slippage are the following:

• Caliper adjustment. In the middle positions, this can lead to the fact that the chain will jump over the sprockets, and in the extreme positions, it can jam between the frame and the sprocket. To avoid such difficulties, it is necessary to adjust the calipers in a timely manner: at the same time, do not forget about those gears that are not often used (for example, 1-1 or 3-9).
• Wear of the chain or its components. The critical mileage of a bicycle can be from 2 to 8 thousand km: when these indicators are reached, the chain starts to jump off at increased load, then more and more often. In this case, you can notice a certain looseness of the chain, as well as an uncharacteristic sharpness of the sprockets. This problem can be solved only by the complete or partial replacement of the damaged element.
• The presence of dirt in the chain or. Dirt particles, ice, grass or earth can cause chain malfunctions. Eliminating slips in this case is easy: just clean and lubricate the chain.
• Twisting or breaking the chain. Twisting is an easily solved problem that occurs when an unsuccessful plexus or removal of a jammed chain. To eliminate it, you need to find the damaged link, carefully bend the chain and straighten the defect. A break, of course, requires more serious efforts: replacing a damaged pair of links or the entire chain.

Chain damper

Chain damper.

When the bike is moving, which cause it to fall. Because of this, you can get hurt. Used to prevent. A range of accessories is called a chain guide. Usually, this is a design of two rollers and rocking. It is placed in place of the front derailleur on the frame, providing protection for the chainring and holding the chain from flying away. Many models are made at home.

The power part that protects the front chainring from impacts is a rockring. It partially performs the function of a calmer, is commercially available. Made in the form of a circle, the size is larger than a star. Rockring is fixed as standard, and can be operated in tandem with. The main element of "calming" is the roller supporting the chain.

Sedatives are:

• Rollerless. The chain is held by the frame. This is an easy option.
• With a pair of rollers - one on top, the other on the bottom.
• With wide rollers - for.

Types of mounting dampers:

• ISCG - fastening with screws on the frame in three places.
• ISCG 05 is the most advanced standard.
• BB - fastening to the carriage. She draws the pacifier to.

There is a sedative on the cassette. It is mounted at the back. It is rare on professional bikes, more often on ordinary ones. It is easy to make, but it is a hindrance to gear shifting, it consumes energy.

Device price depends on the manufacturer and the prestige of the company. It can be 1000 rubles, or maybe 5000 rubles. There are only four normal firms - Truvativ. This is a brand from SRAM, the firstborn of quality, a legitimate product. British Hope - uses the most advanced materials. Funn is a very expensive brand, its price is too high. The most popular brand is Shimano. Its products are designed for the Russian buyer.

Replacing a bicycle chain is an essential skill for every home "mechanic". Chain - consumable bicycle transmission. Over time, it tends to stretch and wear out. So sooner or later it will be time for a replacement.

The video below shows the process of installing a new chain on a bike. The instructions are suitable for both mountain bikes and road bikes.

How to replace a worn chain

The steps below are the same whether you are mountain biking or cycling. Chain splitter A tool for checking the chain. . There are a few exceptions, but most chains from major manufacturers are compatible with each other's transmission components. However, you will need to match the speed of your transmission with the speed of your chain - for example, a 9 speed transmission will require a 9 speed chain.

Using a chain splitter, pull one of the pins from the bottom of the chain, or undo the quick link if installed. Once you have removed the pin, carefully remove the chain from the bike. If you have allowed your chain to wear too much, you may need to replace your cassette at the same time.

How to install a chain - video

Tools for the job

• Squeezing the chain;
• Chain wear indicator (chain stretch tester);
• Bicycle spoke;
• Pliers;

Step-by-step instruction

Bicycle transmission elements of most manufacturers, with rare exceptions, are compatible with each other. It is only necessary to choose the same number of transmission and chain speeds. For example, for a transmission with nine gears, you need a chain designed for the same number of speeds.

Slide the rear derailleur into the largest cog and forward to the largest chain. Release the clutch mechanism on the rear derailleur if you have one. Thread the end of the chain through the front derailleur and rotate the cranks so there are a few inches down. Place the other end into the seat and place it on the cassette. Pull down on the rear derailleur.

Alternatively, you can measure 12 full links, and if that section of chain measures 308mm or more, your chain is worn out and needs to be replaced along with the cassette. By comparison, the new chain should measure exactly 8mm across 12 links. There are a huge number of chain tools available. For a home toolkit, a large tool makes it easier to break and join the chain.

1. Removing the old chain

Using a chain squeezer, squeeze out one of the rollers (the pin that connects the chain links) in the lower chain passage. If there is a lock link, then get it. After removing the roller, carefully remove the chain from the bike.

If you use one chain for a long time without replacement, you may need to replace the cassette as well.

You can spot worn chain with a straightedge, as we mentioned above, but chain wear tools are a handy way to check regularly. One of the most overlooked elements regular maintenance on the bike is a chain. Oh, we all know that a chain needs to be oiled regularly. A chain is made up of literally hundreds of metal parts that shake together, and this combination of metal parts then rubs against other metal parts, i.e. the cassette and chain. The chain experiences significant stress and stress by being heavily loaded and then unloaded when it returns to the rear derailleur, all of which is jerky at times.

2. Installing a new chain

Shift reverse and forward gears to the largest sprockets. If the bike has a clutch mechanism, then loosen it.

Put the chain on the front sprocket, pull the end through the front shifter. Rotate the pedals so that the end of the chain hangs down from the sprocket about 10 centimeters. Pull the other end through the rear fork of the bike frame and over the largest sprocket of the cassette. Lower the rear shifter down.

It pulls against your cassette sprockets and chainrings. It must also pass torsional forces along the way from the cassette to the chainrings. This twisting is why the cross chain is so discouraged that it will wear your chain, and therefore your cassette, faster. If your bike is changing well, why would you want to replace your chain that measures as stretched? By replacing the chain regularly, your cassette will last longer. Of course, cassettes wear out eventually, but a worn chain wears out your cassette faster, and chains are cheaper than cassettes.

Throw the chain over the idler roller, pull it through the legs of the mechanism, wrap it around the tensioner roller. Carefully release the shift mechanism.

3. Chain measurement

You need to make sure that the chain will behave properly when shifting into any gear without damaging other parts of the bike. To check the chain must be installed on the two largest sprockets, front and rear. Even if you never ride in such a gear.

The chain meter measures the chain "stretch"; more accurately, it measures wear in the holes where the pin engages with the side plates of the chain. These holes wear out over time, and as the holes get bigger, the chain gets smaller for longer. What are some thumb replacement options for bicycle chain replacement? Some riders and riding conditions are more difficult than others, requiring more frequent replacement, and failure to keep your net clean and clean will sometimes shorten its life significantly.

Older bikes equipped with 9, 8 or 7 speed chains can expect longer chain life and these chains are more complex than more modern 10 and 11 speed chains. Be careful when you change your chain as each chain brand and generation often has its own nuances. If you install the chain with the wrong side towards you, it will move very badly. Likewise, care must be taken when using the correct tools.

Align the two ends of the chain and determine the extra links that need to be removed. To fix the chain in this position, use a piece of a bicycle spoke.

When using Shimano chains, a link with inner plates should remain at one end, with outer ones at the other. Chains made by SRAM and KMC must have links with inner plates at both ends.

As a general rule, a chain tool that was made for 10 speed chains will not work properly with new 11 speed chains and vice versa. You must carefully follow all of Campi's instructions, including twisting over the pin, or the chain will most likely not hold together.

Yes, you need special tools for this. If you have the right tools and are planning on replacing your chain yourself, you will notice that chains from manufacturers are usually coated in a gooey, thick gooey lubricant that protects an unused chain from corrosion in transit. While you want to get this slime lubricant on the outside of your chain, don't soak your chain in solvent to remove it. Many solvents will wash grease and grease out of the bushings, which increases noise and wear.

After the required chain length is determined, remove unnecessary links. Throw the chain back onto the smallest sprockets.

Attention! On full-suspension mountain bikes, you need to make sure that there is enough chain length to compress the suspension.

4. Chain connection

For Shimano chains, it is necessary to connect both ends with a roller. After installation, the excess part of the roller is broken off with pliers.

For SRAM and KMC, a special locking link is inserted between the ends of the chain, then the plates snap into place. For a complete connection, special pliers are used, but you can use the following method.

While replacing a chainring isn't very difficult, it's often best left to a bike shop that has the right tools and knowledge for the job. Cut the chain too short and you can have potentially disastrous results, such as plucking the rear derailleur off the bike for too long and the bike will move a lot. You could cut the new chain to match the length of the old, but that assumes the old one was cut to the right length, not always a safe bet.

Appropriate approach to bicycle sales. Do not gamble on your next bike or your game! To obtain more information. There is limited space on a motorcycle. The engine, being heavy, should run in the middle of the bike. Wheels must go front and back. Since the engine and rear wheel are far apart, we need to combine them together in some way so that the engine can drive the rear wheel. One way is to have a toothed shaft on the motor output shaft and a rear wheel and use a chain to connect the two.

Scroll the pedals so that the lock link is in the middle of the upper passage. Then hold the rear wheel so that it does not spin. Press down on the pedals, and the locking link will finally sit in its place. Make sure the chain is installed correctly. Pedal the bike using all gears.

Chain care

Regular cleaning and lubrication is the best way to prolong the life of your chain. Use a special lubricant designed for bicycle chains. Lubricate each roller. Lubricate the chain only from the inside, there should be no lubricant on the outside.

Another method is to have a sealed shaft connecting the motor and rear wheel, with suitable seams at both ends, to allow the disc to rotate 90 degrees. There is no point in describing it in words. They are exposed to small pieces of sand that rise from the road. They spin at high speed, which tends to throw things that put little oil on them. Chains either break, seize, or wear out.

To put a chain on a bike, it needs to be broken in order to trick it, and then rejoined. There are two main ways to connect a circuit. First, you can use a special connecting arm that attaches to the side of the plate and holds it in place. Another method is to seal the chain closed, which involves hammering in a special pin until the end is slightly smudged over the side plate and holds it in place.

You should not scroll the chain in the opposite direction and apply lubricant in a hurry. In addition to the increased consumption of funds, you can overload the links. Always remove excess grease with a rag. After riding in wet weather, wipe the chain dry and re-lubricate. This will prevent rust and chain stretch.

Worn links

There is an opinion that the chain is stretched due to incorrect driving. In fact, the effect of chain elongation is a consequence of the wear of the rollers and rollers. As the chain wears, it damages the teeth of the sprocket, causing the chain to slip. There are special tools for determining chain wear.

If the chain becomes decoupled from speed, you're in big trouble. The chains are heavy and if it becomes disconnected while the bike is in motion, it does serious damage and probably locks up the bike. For this reason, be very careful when connecting circuits. Don't reuse closing links, as they weaken when you remove them. If you have a rivet chain, check the rivet link to make sure it's flat enough to keep the side plate from coming off.

The most common way my chains die is through corrosion. Winter takes a heavy toll on the salt and sand chains on the road, and freezing temperatures make it less inviting to go out and bike for a while. As a rule, by the end of winter, there are a lot of captured links in the chain that jump whenever they go on the sprocket.

An easier way to determine chain wear is to measure 12 links. If the number is 308mm or higher, then the chain and cassette need to be replaced. In the new chain, the length of 12 links is exactly 304.8 mm.

Wringer and chain wear indicator

There is a wide variety of pomace different size from various manufacturers. It is worth noting that this tool is definitely a must for those who want to change the chain themselves. Chain wear can be determined using a straightedge. But for constant monitoring, it is better to purchase a special tool - a chain wear indicator.

There are many ways to prevent corrosion, although careful selection of which chain to buy and regular maintenance. Majority bicycle chains are circular chains. This means that at each turning point there is a small rubber ring. The purpose of this o-ring is to trap the grease inside the stem and keep it lubricated. This means that o-ring chains have a much longer service life than simple chains. However, one problem with the o-ring is that if the lube is ever washed out of the chain, then the o-rings will make lubrication very difficult.

On domestic road bikes, chains are made detachable, one segment of such a chain has a special lock. On sports bikes, it is impossible to make the chain detachable, because this lock interferes with gear shifting.

When buying a new chain, you need to find out which chains fit the system and cassette installed on your bike.

In addition, the O-rings themselves can be damaged by various liquids and rough handling. The instructions that came with my latest chain recommend cleaning the chain by wiping down a paraffin-soaked rag and then re-oiling. All chains "stretch" during their lifetime and eventually need to be replaced. Chains don't stretch in the same way that elastic bands do - they get longer because the metal in the links gradually wears out and increases the overall length of the chain. As the chain stretches, the amount of free play increases and you will eventually have to move the rear wheel a bit to take up the slack.

For 10 speed cassettes, use a 6.2mm wide chain such as SHIMANO CN-HG95
For 9-speed cassettes, use a 6.5mm wide chain such as SHIMANO CN-7701 or CN-HG93.
For 6 to 8 speed cassettes, use a 7.1mm wide chain such as SHIMANO CN-HG50 or CN-IG51.

	Chains are sold in two types - boxed and standard (almost like computer components in Retail and OEM supplies). Usually in the box there is a replaceable axis (pin) designed to connect the chain segments. One end of such an axis is pointed, which facilitates its installation. If there is too much slack, the chain will jump around the lot every time you change speed. If there is too little slack, the chain will be overstressed as you slow down and the rear end of the bike becomes unweighted. When you replace a chain, always replace the sprockets - they are still much cheaper than a chain. This is an implausible savings since putting a new chain on top of worn sprockets will cause your chain to wear faster. It's much easier to loosen the bolt that holds the front sprocket in place when the chain is still on the bike. Pressing the chain requires squeezing. After the axle is pressed in, this pointed end must be broken off with pliers.
	If the chain is not equipped with a special pin with a pointed end (like many chains sold without a box), then the pin must be inserted into one of the segment's plates. You put the bike in high gear and have someone stand on the rear brake when you loosen the retaining bolt a little. Since the front sprocket is still chained to the rear socket, it cannot rotate when you try to loosen it. His Hippocratic Oath: "The more you know about the rider, the better you can help him or her." The bike must be tailored to fit the body, not the other way around. And it takes a good rider mechanic to know exactly what the cyclist wants - and needs. Raise the bar: "Many road riders are looking for an aggressive racing stance with a bar 6-10cm below saddle height, but this accentuates your back, neck and shoulders." Riders spend thousands of miles every season tuning into this aggressive stance. Try moving the bar closer to saddle level for a more comfortable ride. "As you gain more miles, you can move towards a more aerodynamic position." Pressing the chain also requires squeezing.
	Some chains are sold with a special connecting link. In this case, no tools are required to connect the chain. These links are also sold separately. By the way, for cyclists going on a long bike trip, it makes sense to include a connecting link in a personal repair kit: just in case. Naturally, when purchasing a connecting link, one must take into account the width of the chain; for 8, 9, 10 - speed chains, the connecting links are different.

Installing the chain using a connecting pin (axle).

	We combine the open links of the chain. If we use a replaceable axis, then insert it with a pointed end into the holes of the segment.
	We fill the chain into the squeeze, and fix it with a clamping screw (in the photo - on the left). Important note- Many squeezers have two chain slots. That is, the chain can be inserted into the squeeze in two ways. The seat located closer to the fixing screw is intended for pressing out and pressing in the axle. It is there that the chain must be refueled for removal and installation. (as shown in the pictures) The other seat is only used to adjust the position of the axle inside the hub. If you try to press the axle when the chain is tucked into this seat, you can damage the squeeze or the chain.
	We press the axle into the chain by turning the squeeze handle. We stop when the axis plunges into the hole almost completely (compare with neighboring links). We take the chain out of the squeeze. If we use a replaceable axis, then we break off the pointed end with pliers.
	We check that the chain in the newly connected segment bends freely, without jamming. If this is not the case, then we check how far the ends of the axis protrude from different sides of the chain. If necessary, the axle must be pushed in the desired direction with a squeeze. To do this, thread the chain into another squeeze seat (the one closest to the squeeze handle). Then both ends of the axis will be visible, and its position can be easily controlled visually.

Installing the chain with a connecting link.

Before installing the chain, place the front and rear derailleurs in the positions corresponding to the smallest sprockets.

No tools are required to rivet a chain with a connecting link, and the process is simple and straightforward.

	We put the chain on the bike. It is important to correctly put the chain on the tensioner rollers. The chain bypasses the lower roller on the left, and the upper roller on the right.
	We insert both halves of the connecting link into the extreme links of the chain.
	We combine the extreme links.
	We make sure that the connecting link has risen correctly, without distortions. And just pull the chain by hand.
	We check that the chain just in the newly connected segment bends freely, without jamming. After assembly, the chain should be slightly bent in the transverse direction to ensure better link mobility.

On domestic road bikes, chains are made detachable, one segment of such a chain has a special lock. On sports bikes, it is impossible to make the chain detachable, because this lock interferes with gear shifting.

When buying a new chain, you need to find out which chains fit the system and cassette installed on your bike.

For 10 speed cassettes, use a 6.2mm wide chain such as SHIMANO CN-HG95
For 9-speed cassettes, use a 6.5mm wide chain such as SHIMANO CN-7701 or CN-HG93.
For 6 to 8 speed cassettes, use a 7.1mm wide chain such as SHIMANO CN-HG50 or CN-IG51.

	Chains are sold in two types - boxed and standard (almost like computer components in Retail and OEM supplies). Usually in the box there is a replaceable axis (pin) designed to connect the chain segments. One end of such an axis is pointed, which facilitates its installation. Pressing the chain requires squeezing. After the axle is pressed in, this pointed end must be broken off with pliers.
	If the chain is not equipped with a special pin with a pointed end (like many chains sold without a box), then the pin must be inserted into one of the segment's plates. Pressing the chain also requires squeezing.
	Some chains are sold with a special connecting link. In this case, no tools are required to connect the chain. These links are also sold separately. By the way, for cyclists going on a long bike trip, it makes sense to include a connecting link in a personal repair kit: just in case. Naturally, when purchasing a connecting link, one must take into account the width of the chain; for 8, 9, 10 - speed chains, the connecting links are different.

Installing the chain using a connecting pin (axle).

	We combine the open links of the chain. If we use a replaceable axis, then insert it with a pointed end into the holes of the segment.
	We fill the chain into the squeeze, and fix it with a clamping screw (in the photo - on the left). Important note - Many squeezers have two chain slots. That is, the chain can be inserted into the squeeze in two ways. The seat located closer to the fixing screw is intended for pressing out and pressing in the axle. It is there that the chain must be refueled for removal and installation. (as shown in the pictures) The other seat is only used to adjust the position of the axle inside the hub. If you try to press the axle when the chain is tucked into this seat, you can damage the squeeze or the chain.
	We press the axle into the chain by turning the squeeze handle. We stop when the axis plunges into the hole almost completely (compare with neighboring links). We take the chain out of the squeeze. If we use a replaceable axis, then we break off the pointed end with pliers.
	We check that the chain in the newly connected segment bends freely, without jamming. If this is not the case, then we check how far the ends of the axis protrude from different sides of the chain. If necessary, the axle must be pushed in the desired direction with a squeeze. To do this, thread the chain into another squeeze seat (the one closest to the squeeze handle). Then both ends of the axis will be visible, and its position can be easily controlled visually.

Installing the chain with a connecting link.

Before installing the chain, place the front and rear derailleurs in the positions corresponding to the smallest sprockets.

No tools are required to rivet a chain with a connecting link, and the process is simple and straightforward.

	We put the chain on the bike. It is important to correctly put the chain on the tensioner rollers. The chain bypasses the lower roller on the left, and the upper roller on the right.
	We insert both halves of the connecting link into the extreme links of the chain.
	We combine the extreme links.
	We make sure that the connecting link has risen correctly, without distortions. And just pull the chain by hand.
	We check that the chain just in the newly connected segment bends freely, without jamming. After assembly, the chain should be slightly bent in the transverse direction to ensure better link mobility.