Over the years, numerous companies have tried to make a snow bike. While there are, of course, fat bikes with fat tires, a number of designers believe swapping tires for skis is the only option. We meet a novelty - a bicycle on Snogo skis.

winter lovers active species sports, tremble! The new ski bike, which uses articulated steering and front suspension, is available on Kickstarter for $1,299. Snogo compares favorably with the fact that it implements the possibility of sharp turns. Ski bikes are a classic example of mechanisms that look super fun on paper or on YouTube videos, but actually turn out to be not so attractive in real life.

Salt Lake City-based Snogo wants to break that stereotype and make the three-ski bike truly fun. It is worth noting that the Snogo does not have a classic seat, it is designed for standing up riding. A separate fan of the Snogo bike should be given by its multi-link steering, called RLTAG. This design allows each rear ski to move independently.

According to people who have tested the bike, the RLTAG provides true freedom of movement, unlike the same fat bikes, thanks to much better snow grip and better handling. At the same time, the bike is very loyal even to beginners - the steering in it can be adjusted both for beginners and for more experienced and advanced athletes.

Separately, it is worth noting the ease of use of Snogo. It has an integrated hook with which the bike can be hooked up to the cable car. Skis have special mounts so that they can be removed for transportation or replacement in just a minute. At the same time, the skis are made universal and are suitable for descending from any mountain. They have a full wood base, steel ribs and additional edge protection.

The rear skis are equipped with open leg bindings. As with a regular bike, the Snogo components are interchangeable, allowing you to customize the bike for yourself. The bike, made of aluminum alloy, weighs 14.5 kg. You can order the Snogo on Kickstarter for $1,299 (the bike is expected to retail for $1,599). A startup needs only $21,000 to raise snow bikes.

On the eve of winter, it's time to pay attention to. They amaze the imagination.

Citizens share their experience and give advice to newcomers.

Olga Korchagina

How did you start? In 2015, for the first time I tried to ride a bike in winter, it was a rehearsal before the first winter bike parade :) Before, when I worked in the office, I went to work by bike in winter, combining trips with the MCC. Now I do it irregularly, but sometimes it happens. For example, I can drive to a coffee shop or a store.

Olya with old Merida.

Are you getting ready for winter? I used to have Mountain bike, which was replaced by the urban Electra. I have not changed tires to studded tires on any of the bikes. To be honest, I don't take any measures at all to operate the bike in the winter. I drive like any other time of the year. Just be sure to wash my bike after every ride.

Most of all in winter, puddles, mud and slush on the roads interfere with a person on a bicycle - no one wants to be rolled from head to toe by a passing car.

New city electra.

For those who ride in the warm season, I advise you not to rush to put your bike on the balcony. Try riding in the winter and you'll see that there's nothing wrong with cycling in cooler temperatures. The main thing is to warm the legs, arms and ears. In addition, the third winter bike parade will be held in February, why not try it?

Afanasy Ismailov

For 3 years now I have been cycling to anywhere in the city, regardless of weather conditions. I came to winter riding somehow by itself or something: autumn was coming to an end, snow fell and played an interest - but how is it to ride in the snow. That's how I ride a bike in winter.

Are you getting ready for winter? Or is the bike in the same condition as in winter? Of course, I warm myself, but this happens gradually, as it gets colder and the clothes change accordingly. And I prepare the bike by relieving pressure in the wheels - it’s more reliable to move on winter roads.

I think that the most unpleasant thing for a cyclist in winter is (as you might guess) - cold, and it intensifies in motion. If we insulate the body and head, then the hands and feet will still freeze, no matter how we insulate them. Therefore, from time to time it is necessary, and this is very important, to take walks, and better lungs jogging to prevent freezing of the limbs.

I can advise the guys who are still wondering about winter cycling, just show interest in it - riding in the snow will bring a lot of positive emotions. Otherwise, you can always put the bike on the balcony or in the garage before the thaw.

Alexey Trunov

How long have you been cycling in winter? So far, I have completely left only last winter, although I ride a bike around Moscow to work, from work, on business - constantly, about 20-25 km a day. Prejudices stopped: cold, slippery, dirty.

Prepared somehow specially for the winter? No, I didn’t do anything on purpose, but I chose one of my two bikes for trips that I don’t mind :) I understand that reagents, negative temperatures are unlikely to have a positive effect on iron.

A simple bike that Alexei does not feel sorry for.

In Moscow - reagents and dirt. Although you can find roads that have fewer of them, but this black porridge is the worst thing in winter.

What do you recommend to newbies? Worth a try. Without fanaticism, of course, it is not necessary to leave at -20 °. I advise you to buy small heating pads in the sports store, which begin to heat as soon as you take them out of the package. This helps a lot if your hands or feet begin to freeze.

Anna Kuzmina

I have been riding a bike since the winter of 2015, then there were single trips, to the pool or to the store, and in the winter of 2016-2017 I switched to constant riding.

Tell me, how did you prepare for winter? I have a bike with a planetary hub, it is less prone to malfunctions in the cold season, but I still had to change something. For some time I drove on summer tires and realized that specifically in my case - this is not a safe option. I want to get the same benefits from driving in winter: speed, safety, comfort. When riding on studded tires, you can maintain a sharper cornering angle, you're more stable on loose snow, and you're more agile on ice. Tires I chose Schwalbe series "Winter active". The width of this rubber is the same as on native tires, so they look harmonious and not weighty.

A post shared by AnnKuzz (@annkuzz) on Dec 4, 2017 at 2:35am PST

A person in Moscow, in principle, is hindered by poor-quality street cleaning, chemical reagents and the lack of infrastructure. Oddly enough, the same things interfere with a person on a bicycle: during heavy snowfalls, most of the bicycle infrastructure is covered with snow, it is not convenient to use it and you have to use car roads even where there are bike lanes. Dirt and reagents accumulate along the side of the road, refusing reagents, as in St. Petersburg, you can make the roads whiter and cyclists happier, because it is much more pleasant to ride on packed snow.

Every time I make such lists of things for myself, I am constantly surprised that the weather conditions do not end up in the calculation.

A post shared by AnnKuzz (@annkuzz) on Dec 15, 2016 at 11:17pm PST

A post shared by AnnKuzz (@annkuzz) on Nov 19, 2016 at 6:00am PST

Your advice to those who only think. When I make a choice between cycling and not cycling, I primarily appeal to my own comfort and time. Now cycling is easy and pleasant to combine with the MCC and suburban electric trains and buses. Your trip may not be as tedious as by car (with daily 8-point traffic jams) and not as uncomfortable as by car. public transport. Start small, understand what type of riding you are comfortable with in winter, first try to ride on business within the area, then combine adding other modes of transport to the bike, try to plan a route and be sure to pay attention to clothing so that you early stages choose the best one for your driving pace.

Andrey Burkov

How long have you been cycling in winter? I'm moving for the second year in a row. Although even in my school years it was not difficult and problematic to ride bicycles with classmates around the district in winter. There were even more impressions than in summer.

I don’t prepare specifically, I just do basic maintenance and lubrication of the units before winter. Otherwise, the bike is in the same condition as in summer. Even the wheels are summer. Spikes are needed only if there is a lot of ice on the road, in other cases in a city where roads and sidewalks are cleaned, this is not required.

Andrey's bike, which he does not prepare in any way.

What hinders a person on a bicycle most of all in winter? Most importantly, it's not cold. The wind and badly cleaned roads interfere. You can warm yourself from the wind, but you can’t run away from poorly cleaned roads. And if the temperature is near zero, then there are no problems with cleanliness, but if it is lower, then the uncleaned snow will freeze into ice, making the movement quite dangerous and uncomfortable.

The main advice is to drive close to home and look at the sensations and well-being. Identify problems, both your own: where and what freezes, and the bike: if something does not work in the usual mode.

Andrey Grishin

I have been living in Moscow for the sixth year and from the very beginning I have had a bicycle here. First moved on it only in the warm season. But for the fourth year now, the cycling season for me does not end with the onset of winter and cold weather.

First of all, I bought winter studded tires - with it I began to drive more confidently in the winter in the snow. For the rest, I don’t really prepare, although for the cold season it would not hurt to change the lubricant to winter, otherwise it’s more difficult to ride in the cold from summer, the bike becomes harder and harder.

What bothers you the most in winter? Snow on the roads and icing on the ramps and curbs - you can get a good turn on if you do not hold the steering wheel firmly.

Tips for those who put the bike on the balcony. Be bold! If not for work, then you can safely go for a walk in the park. To do this, you need to process moving parts - a chain, etc., with winter grease, change ordinary tires for winter studded ones and dress in such a way as not to get tired.

Margarita Leonova

Wings are needed for winter - the longer, the less dirt on clothes. The brakes fill up with porridge and grind down the rims and discs, so a foot brake or a fixed gear option will be more reliable. There should be a lot of light on a bicycle: garlands and other miracles of light delight others and make the cyclist more noticeable.

The backlight on the wheel makes others happy and makes Rita more noticeable.

The drist interferes, which lies in that part of the road where it was easy to drive in the summer. That is, those 40 cm of the roadway become a place where you can go into a skid, not notice the hatch and become very dirty. On the other hand, there are fewer pedestrians - you can take sidewalks, they are cleaner there.

Advise something to those who think. As long as there are reagents, you can put the bike on the balcony. Or buy a bike, which is not a pity :)

Evgeny Gulyaev

I have been traveling in the winter for the last two years. The first time I went when it became necessary to drive to the neighboring area late in the evening, so as not to wait for OT or not to walk.

No, it's not slippery. Exactly to the same extent that it is slippery to walk or drive a car. The safety rules are exactly the same, no differences. The fact is that a person walking on ice usually falls either forward or backward when the supporting leg slides (let me remind you that walking is a controlled fall). A bicycle does not have this problem - it can only fall sideways. And this happens exactly under the same conditions under which a person falls or a car enters. For example, if you turned sharply right on the ice. Otherwise, rubber tires hold better than 90% of winter shoes, and the chance of falling is much less than that of a pedestrian.

What is necessary: Ideally, winter tires if you drive every day, say, to work. But in principle, if you drive carefully, just tires with good grip will work.

What not to do: turn sharply and - important! - "shift" the bike at speed. The side parts of the tread on snow, ice and even just slippery asphalt almost do not hold, you will definitely crash. No winter tires will save.

Also categorically (!) You can not ride on "bald" tires. Actually, the rule, as well as for the car. Tricks and subtleties: Much more dangerous than ice or any other slippery surface is uneven packed snow, frozen, with potholes and pits. Even in summer, if your wheel slips sideways off the curb, you are more likely to fall. Here, a snow “border” can appear anywhere. To safely drive through an area of ​​uneven ice, you just need to hold the steering wheel very firmly- it will pull out - and move straight.

2. So dirty!

This argument is constantly brought up when I talk about winter driving in Scandinavia. Yes, our cities are dirty, there's nothing to be done. But, oddly enough, after riding a bike, you are more likely to come home clean than after walking. I'll explain why.

The fact is that the cyclist does not touch the ground with his feet. When everyone puts on heavy winter boots and boots, I ride in light sneakers that are afraid of water. And I come with dry feet. At the same time, I drive through mud, puddles, slush - all this remains on the tires. Spray is completely cut off by the wings.
What is necessary: definitely correct wings. Shortened, sporty - all this does not fit. Wings must be full-length and cover completely, to the middle of the height, rear wheel, and as far forward as possible - the front. Otherwise, splashes and dirt will seep through. You can't ride without wings, you'll be covered from head to toe in brown goo.

Tricks and subtleties: An important factor is the bottom of the pants. Of course, you can wear special tight cycling pants, but if you are going to work or just on business, then this is not very convenient (you need to wear a change, change clothes). Because the edge of the pants in winter one way or another touches the pedals, gears, gears - and becomes dirty in just a few minutes. The best way out is to gently roll up the trousers literally 2-3 turns up so that their upper edge is higher than the largest gear. Accordingly, we need warm wool knee socks, best of all - ski or for climbers.

3. It's so cold!

It's actually ridiculous, to be honest. In minus 15 I ride in a shirt, a fleece sweater and a Gore-Tex windbreaker, and I'm hot. It's simple: cycling, if it's not walking, is a pretty decent job, a sport. Like running (runners run in rather light clothes in winter, don't they?) or, say, skiing (skiers don't put on down jackets either). The body generates excess heat, even in such light clothes you sometimes arrive at your destination steamed up. This is individual for everyone - you need to calculate in which combination of clothes you will be neither hot nor cold. But in any case, this combination will be an order of magnitude lighter than the usual winter form.

What is necessary: so, I already spoke about woolen stockings. I'll tell you about windbreaker is the #1 thing. Not a down jacket, not a jacket, not a sweater, but a good expensive windbreaker with Gore-tex or a similar membrane. I’ll give you a hint: really high-quality things start somewhere from 10,000 rubles. I generally have a mountain storm windbreaker, no wind breaks through it. It is a good windbreaker that is the guarantee that you will not freeze in the wind. And what is under it is the second question.
Still absolutely necessary gloves. Don't even think about leaving without them. Hands will turn into two insensitive stumps. In principle, there is even a chance of getting frostbite. Gloves are warm, but do not restrict the movement of the fingers and do not interfere with pressing the brake.

Tricks and subtleties: The pants have weakness- protection of the inner surface of the thigh. In the middle, it protects partly the saddle, partly underwear and several layers of pants fabric (there is also a zipper or buttons, after all). But on inner surface an icy wind rushes through your hips. Ideally, you need thermal underwear. It’s better in the form factor of shorts, because if you put woolen knee-highs on top of the bottom of the thermal underwear, you’ll be boiled alive.

4. Bicycle equipment

A bicycle is a relatively complex mechanism with a large number of moving parts. And they are affected by frost. I'll tell you about the features of the impact of winter weather on various details.

Brakes. If you have disk drives, then everything is fine, you don’t have to worry (most importantly, don’t forget about increasing the braking distance). But if they are rimmed, then when they are idle for a long time in frost below minus 5 degrees, they harden tightly and do not slow down at all (!). In order to bring them to life, you need to carefully drive forward, slow down, drive again, slow down again, in 15-20 braking they will warm up by friction on the rim and start working. About other types of brakes - roller, drum, tape - I will not tell because of their rarity.
Transfers. After a long standing, they, like other parts of the bicycle, freeze over. The chain can simply slip to another gear without pressing the shift. Be careful. It is best to drive in the gear that has been established as stable. But this is only in severe frost and ice.

Pedals. They also get icy, and the foot can slip off. If in summer, in principle, it is not very important which side of the pedal to press on (the reverse side usually does not have protrusions, hooks), then in winter, make sure that the pedal is pressed into the sole of the shoe and held firmly.

Velolock. It can freeze tightly (like a car). You have to warm up. The easiest way to pour boiling water. A lock with a key is more reliable and more convenient in cold weather than a lock with a code.

Seat. It is better to have a cloth to wipe it off the snow after standing outside, just like in the rain.

Electrician. Bike computers almost always “die” and do not work in sub-zero weather. They're just not designed for it. There are individual models that are indifferent to weather conditions, but to establish this, you need to test. At least the ordinary wireless Cateye doesn’t work for me in winter, and O-Synce doesn’t either. So if suddenly some company makes a bike computer that works in a twenty-degree frost, I will test it with pleasure.
Signal. Conventional bicycle bell with rotating inside freezes and stops ringing - especially if there is ice on it. But the “pipe” is indifferent to frost. Its timbre changes, but the volume remains.

5. Rules for driving and care

Naturally, winter driving is different from summer driving. As mentioned above, in winter you can’t shift the bike at speed and generally turn sharply. But there are also a few more rules.

1. Keep a large distance and do not accelerate to extreme speeds. The braking distance on slush grows in relation to dry asphalt twice. If a pedestrian or car jumps out, you simply will not have time to slow down. 2. Keep a map of cleared surfaces in mind. A short path ceases to be short if it is uncleaned - the bicycle goes through snow and ice with difficulty. Sometimes it is easier and faster to go around on cleared legs. 3. Wherever there is a bicycle in the apartment, it is worth laying a rag or some old bedspread under it. Upon arrival, water and dirt will flow onto it. 4. In winter, it is worth lubricating the bike more often than in summer. Water in its construction is almost constant, and this is a negative factor.

I hope I haven't forgotten anything. Though I'm sure I forgot something. The main thing - do not be afraid to leave in the winter. There is nothing terrible or dangerous in this. In summer, its features are a sweaty T-shirt, a high probability of puncturing a wheel (in winter, sharp objects are usually blown away by water or pressed into the snow), and so on.

The Finns are driving. And the Danes. And we are worse?

Features of training and cycling in winter

A bicycle, as many might think, is not only a summer means of transportation. Every year on the streets of our city we see everything more people for whom winter is not a hindrance. If you decide to join their ranks, then you probably have a lot of questions:
How do you prepare your bike for winter?
- how to dress before leaving?
- how to ride a bike in winter?

We have prepared answers to all the questions that you may have before the first winter trip.

Advantages and features of skiing in winter

Winter cycling has its own advantages and features that must be taken into account when preparing and operating a bicycle.

Pros of winter skiing:

• It is much more pleasant to ride under falling snow in winter than in the rain in summer. Winter frost is easier to bear than summer heat and if you are cold, you can just speed up and warm up. In the summer, intensive driving, on the contrary, can lead to discomfort from the heat. Although, it should be noted, the clothes of a cyclist should be adequate at any time of the year.
• The summer road with pits and puddles is transformed in winter. On the other hand, the asphalt road, on which there were no pits and potholes in summer, is covered with ice in winter.
• Everything that can lead to tire punctures in summer (nails, glass, etc.) ends up under the snow in winter.
• On soft snow, tires wear out less than when driving on asphalt.
• Winter - good time to practice skiing skills extreme conditions- by analogy with extreme driving a car.

However, there are also features that must be taken into account:

• At negative temperatures, the grease in the bearings thickens, which makes the bike ride harder and the reel less effective.
• When the bicycle is moved from a heated room into a frost, the tire pressure drops noticeably. It is necessary to keep this in mind and, if necessary, pump up the cameras.
• In winter, it gets dark much earlier than in summer, so you should take care of additional reflectors. It is better to use flashlights very carefully, because in the cold the batteries can oxidize.
• It is better not to use bike computers in winter, because their liquid crystal screens stop reproducing information at low temperatures.
• It is worth removing all the plastic parts that you can do without - plastic becomes very fragile in the cold and there is a risk of breaking them.
• It is extremely important to avoid sudden braking followed by wheel locking, as well as sharp turns at high speed.
• You should not wash your bike before you go out - it will instantly freeze up, and, most importantly, the brakes and other components of the bike may stop working.
• Friction, or more correctly, the grip of tires with the road depends on temperature. The lower the air temperature, the better the grip. And vice versa, when the temperature is closer to zero, “porridge” forms on the roads, then the grip level is much worse.
• When driving, bicycle tires are intensively deformed. Some of this energy is converted into heat and heats up the tire, causing the wheels to “tan” less and roll better. Therefore, in winter it is better to ride at a moderately fast pace. In addition, good speed allows you to keep warm in the cold.

Winter equipment for a cyclist

Good warm clothes- a must when cycling in winter. It is important that you wear clothing that is safe and comfortable for you to ride. Winter clothing for a cyclist must meet the following requirements:

• Should not restrict movement or interfere with control.
• Should not reduce visibility.
• Should not be too warm or too cold.
• Must be windproof and waterproof.
• Must be visible to drivers and pedestrians.

The approach to choosing clothes should be such that at first, as soon as you go outside, you are cool, and that after five to ten minutes of active skiing you are well warmed up, but not sweaty. Sweating in the cold is extremely undesirable, because if you sweat, you can only dry out in a warm room. If, nevertheless, the underwear has become wet, then you should go without stopping, not allowing yourself to cool down.

For cycling in winter you will need:

Jacket
- underwear
- trousers
- hat and helmet
- shoes
- gloves
- glasses

It is better to dress in “layers”, that is, wear several layers of light clothing.

The first layer is thermal underwear. The task of the lower layer of clothing is to keep warm and remove moisture. Cotton underwear is undesirable, since the body sweats quickly in it and cotton, absorbing moisture, does not allow it to evaporate. It is better to choose thermal underwear of well-known brands.

The second layer is insulating. The best option is a fleece sweatshirt. Fleece has excellent thermal insulation qualities, is wear-resistant, perfectly removes moisture, dries quickly and is very pleasant to the touch.

And finally, the third layer is a waterproof and windproof jacket or windbreaker. The task of outerwear is to protect against wind and snow. However, don't go overboard with the top layer: it shouldn't be too warm, and it should also allow your body to "breathe".

Trousers
Shoes

Trekking boots with a warm toe are quite suitable for winter skiing. You can also pay attention to shoe covers made of special materials that help retain heat. Important point- while skiing, the feet are almost motionless and at low temperatures they begin to freeze even in warm shoes. If you begin to feel that your feet are freezing, stop and vigorously walk and run for a few minutes.

Hat and helmet

As in summer, great attention should be paid to safety and do not forget about the helmet. It is also important for the head to provide protection from cold and wind. The ideal "clothing" for the head is a balaclava made of special materials, which can be found in sports stores. When choosing a hat or balaclava, keep in mind that a helmet should be put on top without any problems.

Gloves

You can use fleece gloves or not too bulky ski gloves. It is important that the hands are warm and that at the same time shifting gears and operating the brake levers is comfortable.

Glasses

To protect your eyes, you should wear ski or motorcycle goggles, while the temples of the goggles should be plastic, since the metal in the cold can freeze to the skin.

Bicycle preparation and maintenance in winter

Every car owner is well aware that you need to prepare for winter, but how to prepare a bike for winter is not an easy question. Of course, the arrangement of a bicycle is much simpler than a car, but it also needs to be carefully looked after and prepared for winter skiing. Many experienced cyclists, by the way, have a second bike for riding in the winter. Such a bike usually has a more modest hitch and often a stiff fork.

Frame

It is advisable to hold the bike for 10-15 minutes in the entrance before going outside, so that the frame “gets used” to the cold. It is recommended that you do the same on your return for a smoother temperature change. Sharp changes are undesirable. It is also necessary to keep the frame free of snow, ice and salt, because if there are chips or scratches on it, they can be susceptible to corrosion. It is best to immediately clean, degrease and tint them.

Fork

For winter riding, forks with spring-oil or air-oil shock absorbers, as well as rigid forks, are suitable. Suspension forks do not like salt very much, so they should be thoroughly cleaned immediately after each trip around the city. Forks with elastomer dampers perform poorly in cold weather as the elastomer hardens and loses its elasticity. It is worth noting that some people prefer to put a rigid fork in the winter - skiing in the snow is not too hard anyway, and you can save a good suspension fork.

Ropes and shirts

Before the start of the winter season, it is worth checking the condition of the cables and shirts. Faulty cables and jackets can cause gear shifting to fail or, much worse, brakes to engage. A common cause of malfunctioning switches and brakes is moisture getting inside the cable jackets and freezing it there. As a result, the cable can completely freeze and stop moving. To avoid this, it is necessary to periodically lubricate the cables and their entry points into the shirts.

brakes

In winter skiing conditions, disc brakes are most preferred - hydraulic or mechanical - they are reliable, work effectively in any, even very adverse, weather conditions. Of course, you can also ride with rim brakes, but this must be done with extreme caution, since the effectiveness of rim brakes in winter is greatly reduced. This is due to the fact that the pads and the rim are iced up, and when braking, the pads simply slip along the rim.

gear shifters

In winter, switches may stop working if snow or ice builds up in them. In this case, the switch is simply stuck in one position. To minimize this possibility, it is necessary to treat the switches with a lubricant (for example, WD-40) that has water-repellent properties.

Chain

One of the most vulnerable components of a bicycle in winter is the chain. When riding, a mixture of snow, salt, sand and road reagents is packed into the chain. And if you do not periodically clean and lubricate the chain, it can quickly rust.

Tires

In winter, you can ride on regular tires, but in terms of safety and more comfort, you should pay attention to winter studded bicycle tires. Studded tires differ in structure, tread pattern, as well as the number of studs and rows of studs on the tire. On the most advanced tires, up to 350 spikes are placed in 3-4 rows in the center and in the side parts of the tire tread. On such tires you can confidently ride even on ice. However, if you do not plan on such extreme riding, you can get by with tires with 50-200 studs placed in two rows.

cameras

As already mentioned, it must be borne in mind that tire pressure drops in the cold. However, you should not download them. Let them better sag a little under your weight - so the area of ​​\u200b\u200bcontact with the snowy road will increase.

Wings

In city conditions, it makes sense to install full-size fenders on your bike for better mud protection. When riding outside the city, where the snow is clean, you can get by with the usual lightweight quick-release wings.

Light fixtures

In winter, daylight hours are very short, so you should take care of lighting devices in order to ensure good visibility and be visible to pedestrians and motorists. Behind you can install a flashing LED lamp. You can also put a flashlight with LED or halogen lamps on the steering wheel. If you have planned a long route in dark time, then it is worth remembering that at low temperatures, the “batteries” sit down much faster. Also, additional spoke reflectors and clothing with reflective elements will not interfere.

Bike maintenance

AT winter season all components of the bicycle are subjected to increased loads and quickly wear out, rust, and collapse. This is due to adverse external influences - snow, ice, salt, reagents do their detrimental work. Negative temperatures lead to thickening of the lubricant in all rotating units, which can disrupt their operation, and they can be worn out and even destroyed. Therefore, after each winter outing on a bicycle, it is necessary to carefully put it in order - clean and lubricate.

winter skiing technique

If you have non-studded tires, and there is ice on the street, then it is better to postpone the bike ride. On such rubber, you can quite comfortably ride on freshly fallen or compacted snow - and relatively safe, and you will enjoy it.

On tires with a small number of spikes (up to 150), you can move more boldly and in more adverse road conditions. But do not make sudden movements, brake sharply - despite the presence of spikes, it is very easy to send the bike into a skid. The most comfortable and safe riding is on tires with a large number of studs (up to 350) arranged in four rows. On such tires you can even ride on ice.

On any tires, you should avoid driving on a side slope - it is better to go around such places, or dismount and walk this section of the road on foot.

The brakes must be maintained at all times. To do this, lightly apply the brake while driving and drive with the brake lever depressed for several meters. First, the brake pads will slip, and then they will begin to cling to the disc or rim. It is worth doing this every 10-20 minutes so that the brakes are constantly in a state of readiness.

In winter, you need to brake gently and intermittently, otherwise the bike may go into a skid. It is better to press the rear brake first, then gently - the front.

• in winter it is better to ride on densely packed snow
• do not drive on ruts and try not to drive on slush
• turn smoothly, on a large radius, avoid sharp turns
• do not drive onto motor roads - this is extremely dangerous in conditions of narrowed carriageways, insufficient visibility, the presence of a track - all this greatly increases the risk of accidents
• try not to make sudden movements
• always be prepared for ice under the wheels, keep your hands on the brake levers in order to slow down in time

We figure out whether a special bike for the cold season is a necessity or a luxury.

WHAT IS A "WINTER BIKE"?

In short, a winter bike is the second (third, fourth ...), relatively inexpensive bike that you ride in winter (have you ever seen this?).

Although it's usually little more than just a dirt bike: Mud fenders, cheap (or old) wheels and wide tires are all things that should be fitted by a winter bike user.

You can also add a pump placed on the frame to deal with the inevitable punctures, a bigger saddle bag for spare tubes and clothes, and of course a decent set of lights. In general, things, the need for which is dictated by common sense.

You can, of course, have just one bike and stock it with all these things for the winter, but constantly changing parts depending on the weather can be cumbersome, because you just want to get out of the house and ride.

Plus, in muddy cold weather, your bike will be subject to much more wear and tear, so if you want to keep your best bike in good condition for as long as possible, it's worth considering a late fall (winter, early spring) inexpensive spare bike.

WHY DO YOU NEED A WINTER BIKE?

By default, we will assume that you are not going to hibernate from December to May, and that you are determined to drive all this time. Ride on the street, not in the room on the simulator ...

Winter inevitably brings with it bad (for a cyclist) weather, as well as dirt, salt and potholes on the roads. Under such conditions, your bike can very quickly become covered with a black coating of chemically aggressive shit (excuse me generously, but there is no other word for it), and this negatively affects the gears, braking surfaces and the frame itself. That's not to mention that you'll be in the mud too, and wet bottoms aren't the best companion on long winter rides.

What to hide, in winter your bike is not easy, and there is nothing worse than watching your half a million rubles, your pride, your joy, your favorite bike slowly dissolve in the mud. You just shouldn't use it in winter! Plus, summer can now also be damp and cold here (just remember the past), so you can perceive your second device as a bike “for bad conditions”.

WHICH BIKE IS BETTER?

A winter bike can really be anything: an old road bike, a cross bike, a gravel bike, or even a mountain bike. Many, having bought new bike, put off the old one and forget about it, although they may well use it as a “winter” one.

Winter bikes usually have metal frames instead of carbon, and if you're buying new, aluminum is a smart choice. Sure, you can use a carbon bike, but it's usually more expensive and you'll probably regret using it mercilessly in the worst weather with all that slush on the road.

The choice of a winter bike, of course, inevitably relies on the possibilities of your budget, but you could buy (or build) a decent car for bad conditions for 50 thousand - we assume that this is much less than your main handsome man is worth.

WHAT TO PAY ATTENTION TO IN A WINTER BIKE?

As already mentioned, the installation of fenders is necessary - they will not only prevent you from getting wet, but also protect the one who rides with you (if any) from splashes and dirt, and also protect all parts of the bike from negative impacts.

In order to be able to fit the fenders, you need a bike with clearance for them - so make sure there is enough room between the stays to fit them.

If you're going to put fenders that require bolts to the frame, make sure the frame has holes for those bolts (most carbon frames don't).

If you are going to fit 25mm or 28mm tires, also make sure there is enough clearance between the stays and between the brake pads.

It's not a bad idea to move the fit from your main bike to the winter bike so they match up and you can switch from one to the other easily, so compare the fit setup or you might get uncomfortable when switching between them.

DISC BRAKES

Disc brakes for road bike gaining popularity and now they are not as expensive as they were a couple of years ago.

More reliable and confident braking, especially in wet conditions, makes disc brakes good choice for winter bikes. Plus, removing the conventional rim brake calipers also means you have more room to fit the mud fenders.

WHICH WHEELS SHOULD I USE?

Perhaps on a basic bike you can afford the lightest and most explosive carbon wheels, but on a winter bike you need something you really need to match something more suitable (and cheaper).

Since the wheels will be exposed to water, dirt and chemicals on the roads, care must be taken that they can withstand all this rubbish well, or at least they would not be a pity. Many people have a set of old aluminum wheels for just such a purpose (maybe hand-bought, or leftover from the main bike, or just bought on sale).

Suitable wide tires with puncture resistance and wet tread are also a good idea. Most tire manufacturers offer at least one winter model.

WHAT ABOUT GEARS?

With all this extra equipment on board, your winter bike will inevitably be heavier than your main machine. If this is not the case, then it is better to swap your bikes.

A heavy winter bike will ride slower (weather and road conditions will also play a role), so you are unlikely to set speed records on it. However, wait until you get back to your best bike, and you'll feel like you're just flying it up familiar climbs.

Some people use lighter ratio gears on their winter bikes to make it easier to move the extra mass uphill. We would recommend a compact system with 50/34 chainrings paired with a wide range cassette with a large 28 tooth (or even 32) cog. However, other cyclists prefer to exactly repeat the gear ratio of their main bike.

It probably makes no sense to install something from Shimano Dura-Ace or Campagnolo Super Record on a winter bike - mid-range groups like Shimano 105 will fully provide reliability and functionality, as well as save money when replacing parts worn out in bad conditions.

IS A SPECIAL WINTER BIKE NEEDED?

Some manufacturers offer ready-made winter bikes complete with mud wings. If you have money it can be good option. But if your budget doesn't allow for it, then an inexpensive used bike might well be a good alternative.

HOW TO MAINTAIN YOUR WINTER BIKE?

Keep an eye on your winter car and check its components regularly, paying particular attention to wear on the rims, brake system, tire condition, bottom bracket, headset and hub bearings. The chain and transmission components must be well lubricated to withstand wet conditions.

Lubricating the chain with a light lubricant after riding in wet weather or after washing it prevents it from rusting and wear, especially if you have driven on sandy and salty roads.

Later, when the bike is dry, you can wipe off the light grease and replace it with a higher viscosity grease, as it will wash out less while riding.

However, keep in mind that greases have by-effect- they "collect" dirt, forming a black paste that wears out components with frightening ease. Make sure that this paste does not build up too much, and clean the chain and cassette gears more often.

IS IT POSSIBLE WITHOUT A WINTER BIKE?

Of course you can. You can continue to ride year round on your regular bike, but just be aware that you will inevitably have to deal with increased component wear, and this can cost you dearly (most likely more than a spare bike).

By the way, there is even something interesting in this, something fun - to change from a top-end bike to an inexpensive one, but suitable for any conditions, on which it’s nice (and not a pity) to have fun in bad weather.

In addition, it will make you appreciate your best bike even more and, when you get back on it, feel again how good it is and how you fly it.