Having become an experienced skier, a person thinks about self-lubricating winter equipment for better skiing. After reading the article, you can learn about the preparation of skis for the classic course before the descent, for the summer, workout . Training classic skis - the process is painstaking, long, but makes riding enjoyable.

The process of descent is a pleasure when there is no discomfort. Inexperienced skiers find lubrication superfluous. Processed inventory is stored longer than that which is not looked after.

With the right When lubricated, during a push, the holding area sticks to the snow, making it possible to push off harder, and unlubricated products slip. Prepared skis glide better, soften the terrain, and do not roll back unnecessarily. Skating like sport , requires mandatory care of inventory.

Attention! Skis with notches are not lubricated.

For proper preparation, you need to know about the presence of 3 zones:

1. Heel - the distance from the heel of the boot to the end of the ski. Responsible for sliding.
2. Block - a distance equal to the length ski boot+30 cm forward. Responsible for holding the product when pushed.
3. Toe - the distance from the end of the block to the pointed tip of the inventory. Responsible for sliding.

Ski preparation tools

Before starting work, put everything you need nearby. Processpreparing new skis for classic skiingwill require the following tools:

• synthetic cork, a piece of cork;
• masking tape;
• acrylic scraper;
• traditional sandpaper (P100).

Of the materials will come in handy:

• holding ointment;
• paraffin;
• thinner, ski oil remover, turpentine, aviation kerosene.

How to prepare skis correctly

The block area is treated with restraining ointments, everything else is sliding. To prevent ointments from getting into other areas, it is recommended to use masking tape. Shoot leftovers lubricants be careful not to damage the outer layer of the skis.

Attention! Paraffin and other lubricants designed to enhance glide must not be applied to the holding area, otherwise slippage will occur when repulsed.

Before preparation of cross-country skis for classic skiing, they are thoroughly dried, wiped from dirt and dust with a soft damp cloth. Detergents and abrasives must not be used. Serious dirt that cannot be removed with a cloth can be treated with a solvent. Education the process of preparing winter equipment at the first stages should be controlled by a person who knows the matter - this will help to avoid wrong actions.

Sliding surface preparation

The stop zone is processed with sandpaper, which allows you to raise small villi to improve the gripping quality of the surface. A heated primer mixture applied to a rough surface will help smooth the plane for better glide - especially important before competitions . Choose a primer, focusing on weather conditions.

The retaining lubricant is applied in 4-6 steps. Each new layer is rubbed with a synthetic cork, then ironed with an iron heated to 130-150 degrees.Preparing plastic skis for classic skiinggradual application of the substance increases the protective properties.

Applying liquid ointment

The klister is applied to the containment area after sanding it. The room where the lubrication process will take place should be warm. First, the block area is treated with a liquid base - Blue, Violet.

After leveling the main layer, proceed to the application of liquid ointment, selected according to weather conditions. A hair dryer is used to warm the lubricant. Do not dry skis near open flames - they can catch fire. The preparation process is suitablefor combined skis skating and classic. Plastic, wooden products need rest after lubrication.

Cleaning the sliding surface

The lower part of the skis is cleaned with an acrylic scraper, freeing the plane from the remaining ointment. For these purposes, use a wash to remove serious contaminants. After application, wipe with paper after 20-30 seconds - this time is enough for the solvent to begin to act.

The slip zone is cleaned 3 times. Soil paraffin is used to remove dirt. After melting, the contaminants rise to the top - then they are cleaned with a scraper. When the surface is clean, you can do the following step – apply paraffin appropriate to weather conditions.

Attention! It is not recommended to use a solvent for cleaning the slip zone - after it, a primer ointment must be used again.

The liquid is used to clean the retaining ointment, which has accidentally fallen from the stop zone.

In order not to spoil the winter inventory , follow the instructions for proper preparation. Here are some tips that can simplify the process and reduce the risk of spoilage:

1. Household iron does not allow you to adjust the temperature, accurately setting the desired value. To warm the ointments, special equipment is needed.
2. Surface treatment with an iron does not tolerate delays in one place. Repeated movement in one zone threatens to burn plastic.
3. The slip ointment is applied after “activating” the surface with a brass brush. It must be carried out along the entire length of the ski ridge or the classic move, starting with the toe.
4. After removing the paraffin mixture from the skis, thoroughly brush the surface.
5. It is impossible to treat the sliding zone with a solvent, holding and the front part - you can.
6. The application of a liquid ointment can help reduce the pad by 3-4 cm.
7. Paraffin increases the protective properties of the sliding surface. The processing of inventory with this mixture accompanies subsequent rest - in the spring, for example, before a long storage .

Preparing classic skis is a laborious process that requires time, attention, and skill. Following the recommendations described, you can simplify the matter. The choice of suitable ointments, the determination of the length of the stop - this will come with experience.

How to choose skis for skating and make no mistake? Choosing skis is not an easy task, especially for beginners. The purchase of this sports equipment requires the use of a competent, responsible and balanced approach.

How to choose skis for skating for a beginner?

The first difficulties may arise directly in the definition of products that are included in the category of cross-country. Often this type includes models that differ in structure from skiing. At the same time, a beginner absolutely does not need professional skis for skating, at least based on their high cost.

A person who is just starting to ski, first of all, needs to decide on an affordable price category. The cost of individual models of skis for skating can range from $30 to $350. And even with a special wallet size, the most expensive models from reputable world manufacturers are not always the ideal solution.

What are the best skis for skating? The best solution for beginners can be cross-country skis for skating of domestic production. Firstly, the average quality of such models allows you to feel the whole range of positive emotions from skiing, and secondly, their cost is so affordable that you can use such skis without sparing, in almost any conditions.

Another important issue for a beginner is the selection of cross-country skis based on technical parameters: length, stiffness level, structural strength. It is these characteristics that are decisive when choosing any models.

The optimal length of skis for skating can be determined according to the classical calculation formula. To do this, you need to add 25-30 cm to the height of the skier, which will become an indicator of a suitable length.

As for the stiffness of skis, here it is necessary to focus on the weight of the skier. Under too heavy a rider, soft models will certainly sag, delivering a whole lot of inconvenience. With a low skier weight, too rigid equipment will slip with rather unpleasant feedback. To determine the optimal level of rigidity, it is enough to stand on the skis with full weight, after placing a thick sheet of paper under the binding area. A sufficient rigidity indicator is considered if the sheet can be moved under the sliding surface without much difficulty at a distance of about 30-40 cm in both directions.

The majority of buyers prefer to immediately purchase for riding entry level expensive skis for skating, hoping for a comfortable riding experience based on the authority of a recognizable manufacturer. However, the reliability and high quality of expensive skis are justified by the need to achieve maximum speeds on the track. It is unlikely that a novice amateur will immediately be able to ride at such speeds using correct technique ride. Therefore, it makes no sense to spend money on buying a professional ski model for a person without much experience.

Manufacturing materials

When carrying out such a procedure as choosing skis for skating, choosing the right material remains an important issue for most beginners. Many of us have not yet forgotten the good old wooden models of Soviet-made cross-country skis, which at one time had practically no alternative. Therefore, some sports fans are extremely difficult to accept the need to switch to the use of modern plastic models. The main reason here is far from the rigidity of perception, but rather the lack of information about the features of the operation of such equipment.

Plastic skis for skating are not as simple as they might seem at first glance. Using such a model without proper preparation and maintenance, you can feel discomfort, convincing yourself of an unsuccessful purchase already on the first meters of the track.

In fact, plastic has improved sliding qualities compared to wood. Therefore, when choosing plastic cross-country skis, you need to be prepared for the need for regular lubrication of the sliding surface of the product, selecting the appropriate compositions and based on weather conditions and the nature of the terrain.

Plastic models of cross-country skis are much stronger than wooden ones and, accordingly, have an increased level of reliability. And if the owners of the former begin to cover their favorite inventory with the appearance of positive indicators on the thermometer, then the happy owners of plastic counterparts usually please themselves for some time with the continuation of the season.

How to choose skis for skating according to your riding style?

One of the defining moments in the selection of skis is the compliance of the chosen model with the style of skiing. It is recommended to consider individual features and configuration of skis, based on the nature of the future use of the purchased pair.

The selection of skis for skating should be carried out, focusing on the features of the riding style itself, which is characterized by the need to perform sweeping movements, the so-called "herringbone".

The main difference between classic skis and models for skating are the features of their lubrication. In order to achieve the most uniform sliding, the surface of skating skis is treated with primers in the form of holding ointments, lubricated with paraffin along the entire length, additionally treated with special slip lubricants. At the same time, such processing is unacceptable for classic ski models, the sliding surface of which, on the contrary, is skinned to achieve greater grip, after which it is covered with a holding lubricant.

To choose skis for skating that will be used for cross-country riding, you need to pay attention to the most durable products that can withstand significant loads.

In general, experts recommend purchasing several sets of skis for traditional, skating and cross-country skiing. It is this solution that will allow you to avoid difficulties and discomfort, having the opportunity to switch from one move to another.

ski boots

The most important process, along with the direct selection of cross-country skis, is the selection of a whole range of necessary accessories: bindings, boots, poles, etc. Innovative ski boot models are not just special shoes for a comfortable connection with skis, but also products that can protect the feet from certain loads and maintain a balance of warmth.

In the production of modern ski boots, the anatomical features of the foot of skiers and the natural requirements of hygiene are taken into account. The selection of high-quality, reliable boots is the key to a comfortable, successful ride. A responsible approach to the selection of shoes eliminates the need to be distracted by all sorts of inconveniences in the form of squeezed fingers or wet feet.

Currently, there are several main categories of ski boots:

1. Classic models - traditionally used on ski models that are used for classic skiing.
2. Skating boots - the structure and functionality of this equipment corresponds to the features of skating.
3. Combined models - can be used for riding in various styles, thanks to the presence of a convenient removable cuff.

Mounts

When choosing skis for skating, you need to think about the selection suitable fasteners. To date, there are standard and profile types of fasteners.

Standard bindings involve connection with boots using holes for which there are connectors on the soles of special boots. Such bindings also have ledges, due to which, in fact, the ski boots are securely fixed.

The profile systems have rubber elements of different stiffness, which ensures high efficiency of repulsion when running. Under the profile boots, there are several separate mounting options - NNN and SNS. The difference between these types of profile fasteners lies in the number of recesses. There are two in NNN format mounts, and only one in SNS mounts.

ski poles

When choosing the best skis for skating, you should pay attention to choosing the most comfortable, efficient poles. In many ways, the choice of sticks depends on the style of riding. The classic style of riding is best suited to the choice of poles, the length of which reaches the armpits, and for the "horse" it is recommended to select poles that are shoulder height.

The ideal solution can be considered the selection of sticks with an anatomically adjusted lanyard and large paws. The presence of these characteristics makes it possible to ride for a long time, practically without feeling tired or uncomfortable in the hands.

How to prepare skis for skating?

The preparation of skis for skating involves, first of all, the creation of a sliding surface structure that best matches the nature of the snow. For this, the outer plane of the skis is treated with special substances in the form of ointments and paraffin, which are selected based on weather conditions.

First of all, a solid holding ointment is applied to the sliding surface of the skis. The procedure is carried out in the following order:

• the outer plane of the skis is processed with sandpaper, which helps to improve grip due to raising the pile;
• a ground heated ointment is applied with a consistency that is most appropriate for weather conditions;
• the ointment is leveled with an iron of medium temperature;
• after solidification, subsequent layers of ointment are applied in the holding area and leveled with a synthetic stopper.

Applying paraffin to the surface of the skis

Lubrication of skis for skating in the presence of sufficiently soft paraffin can be done by applying it to a sliding surface in a cold form. If ski processing occurs with the use of hard paraffin, in this case, they resort to heating the lubricant with an iron. Alternatively, lubrication of skis for skating can be done by briefly heating a bar of hard paraffin, followed by smooth strokes of the skis.

Such an amount of paraffin should be applied to the ski so that, in the molten form, the lubricant spreads evenly over the entire sliding surface, and the layer of the substance should be no more than 1 mm. It is leveled with the same hot iron.

Preparing skis for skating by applying lubricant in the form of paraffin heated with an iron is the most dangerous procedure. With a careless approach to the operation, there is a high probability of overheating, deformation and burning of high-molecular plastic. Therefore, when applying paraffin, it is strongly recommended to set the minimum possible temperature of the iron, at which the existing paraffin can be melted.

It is necessary to run the iron along the sliding surface of the skis smoothly and without delay. At the same time, there must be a layer of paraffin between the plastic and the sole of the iron, because the plastic quickly burns in the presence of direct contact with the heated surface of the iron. Based on this, it is not worth saving on paraffin consumption, as this often leads to more serious material losses in the form of damage to equipment.

Cleaning the ski surface with special brushes

In cases where the entire length of skis for skating is machined on special grinding machines, it becomes possible to form a complex large or small surface microstructure. Such processing contributes to the optimal removal of liquid and air when the ski comes into contact with snow, which ensures the best glide.

After removing the remnants of the old paraffin with the help of scrapers, with the advent of the new season, there are enough small grooves filled with grease. To restore the original structure of the ski surface, wax residues should be removed with rotary or manual brushes. The most effective may be the use of hard metal or nylon brushes, which are distinguished by a thin pile.

When cleaning the sliding surface from paraffin with brushes, it is not recommended to be too zealous, making sudden movements or excessive pressure, so as not to damage the plastic structure. Most effectively, the bristles of metal and nylon brushes clean off paraffin residues when they are placed at right angles to the surface to be treated.

1. To apply the base layer in the form of a primer, it is better to use a special iron, since most irons for ironing clothes do not allow you to set the optimum temperature.
2. The delay of the heated sole of the iron at one point on the ski surface often, unfortunately, leads to burning and deformation of the plastic.
3. Before applying a slip wax when preparing skis for skiing, you should activate the surface by once again treating it with a brush.
4. When preparing skis for skiing in frosts, it is better to resort to creating a fine structure of the sliding surface, and in warm weather - to use a large surface texture.
5. Of great importance in the preparation of a sliding surface is the use of trial and error. In other words, worth a try personal experience different combinations of lubricants for different weather conditions.
6. Before the need for long-term storage of skis, you should not clean off the old paraffin, which will act as protection for the sliding surface in the off-season.
7. It is recommended that you initially take extreme care of your skis, because only in this case you can hope for their long service life and getting maximum pleasure in the process of skiing.

Now it is difficult to imagine when and who was the first to use ski lubricant. It is clear that this was done a very, very long time ago by ancient hunters in order to reduce the layer of snow sticking to skis (or snowshoes). At first it was lard and fat. Then they were replaced by modern ski lubricants with paraffin. Today, many manufacturers in the world market compete to ensure that their ski wax is the best. And of course the brands Swix, Start, Rex, Brico are a serious guarantor of the quality of ski wax.

But enough lyrics. How to prepare cross-country skiing for skiing? Many will say: skis should be anointed with ointment. And so not quite. modern ski lubricants perform two functions at once: firstly, the ski must glide well, and secondly, it must not go backwards (unless, of course, we are talking about the classic style of movement). Many, having bought plastic skis for the first time, are wondering how to properly lubricate plastic skis. Basically the same as wood. Is it that wooden skis were smeared almost exclusively with ski ointment, while for plastic skis the noses and heels are lubricated with paraffins - or, scientifically speaking, with slip ointments. Accordingly, sliding ointments and holding ointments are distinguished. Holding ointments are what used to be solid in jars and liquid in tubes. Gliding ointments are usually paraffins, emulsions and powders. And of course ski sliding is one of the main factors for skiing.

Now it's difficult about simple. Snow is water that freezes when it falls from the sky. Therefore, as we know from physics, skis do not ride entirely on snow, but rather, of course, on snow, but due to the thin film of water that forms between the skis with snow and plays the role of a lubricant. Of course, at low air temperatures, ski sliding is mostly dry friction, and at an air temperature near the melting point, on the contrary, the ski "sucks" to the snow (due to excess water).

So, our task with you is to prepare the sliding surface of the skis in such a way that this lubrication film is optimal. Because if the layer of water between the ski and the snow is large, the ski seems to stick to the snow, and if it is small, then dry friction is obtained and the ski slides very badly. In addition, when it is frosty outside, it is more difficult to melt the snow until a water film is obtained, and when, on the contrary, it is damp and wet outside, there is already excess water in the snow and excess water must be pushed away and removed from the sliding surface of the ski.

In order to optimize the thickness of the water film between ski and snow, not only ski lubricants are used, but also a number of special tools. These are ski scrapers, cycles, knurling and brushes. With the help of them, you can either gloss the surface in severe frost, or vice versa, apply a special structure to the ski to remove excess water. But this is purely professional.

So if you are going to skate, then a simplified version of ski preparation is as follows. Take your skis and pick up the paraffin suitable for the weather. Typically, the temperature range of paraffin is indicated on the package. According to the content of fluorine, paraffins are divided into carbonic, low fluorine and high fluorine. Corresponding to the fluorine content, both the price and the sliding properties of paraffin increase. Especially under conditions of high humidity. But remember, during heat treatment, fluorine is harmful and volatile. Than to treat them with skis at home, it is better to give them to a special ski service. With carbonaceous paraffin you can handle yourself. To do this, apply paraffin wax to a clean ski surface and melt it with a ski iron to the temperature indicated on the paraffin package. Let the skis cool down, then remove the wax from the skis with a special ski scraper. Clean the remaining paraffin from the sliding surface of the skis with a special synthetic brush. That's all. At the same time, try to do all movements with a scraper and a counter in one direction from the nose of the ski to the heel.

If you are going to ride the good old classics (that is, on the ski track) in the above way, you prepare only the socks and heels of the skis. The area of ​​skis called the block (approximately a foot up and a foot down from the leading edge ski bindings) must be smeared with holding ointment. The function of the block or weight deflection of the ski is that when you ride evenly distributing the weight on both skis, it does not touch the ski track, but when you transfer all your weight to one ski, in order to push off, the block touches the snow and for a moment should stick to it, as it were. That is why the ski wax that you use as a ski wax is better to choose half a range or a range warmer than the temperature outside. After you have chosen the ski ointment and smeared it on the ski block, you need to grind it to a gloss with the help of a grinding plug. I recommend not to get up on skis right away, but to freeze the ski wax a little on the street.

If, on the skis, you feel that the skis do not hold and slip back, you can try smearing the ski block with warmer ski wax right on the street or smear ski wax a little higher to the toe of the cross-country ski. Ski ointment is usually sold in sets for different weather conditions and most often with a stopper - rubbing. In addition to traditional solid and liquid ski waxes, ski wax manufacturers offer universal sprays and special adhesive tapes that are glued to the ski block to prevent recoil. And surprisingly, all these innovations also work well. Progress, what can I say, touched ski ointments.

In the photo above, the ski wax kit includes a cork and three ski waxes. In this case, from the entire range of SWIX waxes, the manufacturer has chosen, for dummies, three ski waxes with good holding properties.

If you are a little disappointed by the completeness of information about cross-country ski lubrication that is presented in this article, I apologize the article was written for Dummies.

p/s site also provides a full range of services for service processing, repair and preparation of cross-country skis for skiing. Ryazan, st. Gagarina, d. 78, N 2.

SKI PREPARATION

1. Factors affecting the choice of ointment.

Temperature.

Before you start preparing skis for a race or just a walk, you need to take into account a number of factors - air temperature (snow), air humidity (snow), type of snow (granularity).

Air temperature (snow)

Today you can find out the air temperature in a particular area without leaving your home, just open one or another weather widget. It is much more difficult with the snow temperature, it must be measured directly on the track.

Usually, the air temperature is indicated on the packages of paraffin (ointments). The temperature of the snow can also be helpful. But remember that when the temperature of the snow has reached the freezing point (0 C), then it will not grow further, regardless of the increase in air temperature. In this case, it is better to use the air temperature and pay attention to the water content of the snow.

Humidity.

Humidity is more important as a local climate trend and does not need to be accurately measured. It is important to know if you are riding in a dry climate zone with an average humidity of 50%; in a normal climate zone with a humidity of 50% - 80% or in a humid climate from 80% to 100%.

Snow grain.

For right choice ointments, the type of snow crystals and the type of resulting surface are also important. Falling or very fresh freshly fallen snow is the most a difficult situation for lubrication. Sharp crystals require an ointment that does not allow the penetration of snow crystals, but at higher temperatures it must also be water-repellent. Freshly poured snow at low temperatures especially requires synthetic paraffin additives. When the air temperature rises above 0 C, the temperature of the snow remains 0 C. The amount of water surrounding the snow crystals increases until the snow becomes saturated with water. In this case, strongly water-repellent ointments and a deep structural pattern of the sliding surface are required.

2. Ski preparation tool

Tables and machines

First of all, for the lubrication and processing of skis, we need a table of convenient height, equipped with the necessary devices for work (electric sockets, additional lighting, etc.). Tables can be both home-made and manufactured by some companies (for example, “SWIX”), stationary or portable, with a wide variety of designs and their modifications.

Machine - a device on which you can strengthen the ski so that it has support along its entire length. Machines can be, just like tables, homemade or “branded”. By design, they can be very different (one-piece, collapsible, with variable length, etc.). Usually they are attached to the table with clamps or have independent “legs”. The last option is designed to work in the "field" conditions.

Thermal appliances

The main purpose of thermal devices is the heating of paraffins and ointments. Commonly used electric irons, heated irons, gas burners, hair dryers. Preference is given to appliances that do not use open flames and that can maintain a constant, controlled temperature for a long time. Of all the existing thermal devices, the most used are:

electric irons - for melting paraffins and powders.

hair dryers - to melt the holding ointment applied under the ski block. If you use an iron for this purpose, you will only achieve that the ointment will “scatter” into the groove and onto the sides of the ski. Hair dryers, unlike irons, are much more suitable for melting the ointment, since they allow you to heat it evenly.

gas burners - usually used in "field" conditions, where there is no access to the mains.

Cycles, scrapers

Metal scrapers - serve to level sliding surfaces and remove lint (the hardness of the steel from which the scraper is made and its thickness depend on how large a layer of plastic you need to remove).

Metal cycles are produced by various companies (“TOKO”, “SWIX”, etc.) or made to order from special grades of steel.

Soft metal makes it possible to sharpen cycles in normal, “field” conditions using special sharpening. Hard metal involves sharpening cycles only in the factory.

SCRAPERS FROM PLEXI, PLASTIC processing of the sliding surface after application of paraffins. Available in 3.4 and 5 mm thickness. Thicker scrapers are designed to remove colder and therefore harder wax.

RAZORS are used to remove lint after mechanical and manual grinding (sanding) of skis.

SCRAPER FOR CLEANING THE GUTTER are available in various varieties. Now scrapers are becoming more common, their shape resembling fountain pens.

brushes

Brushes are designed for the final finishing of the sliding surface of the skis. There are two types: conventional (for manual processing) and rotary (for mechanized processing using power tools).

For manual processing, brushes of several varieties are used:

metal (brass, bronze, steel)

nylon (hard, medium, soft)

natural (usually from horsehair)

combined (brass-nylon, bronze-nylon, brass-natural, natural-nylon)

polishing (in the form of natural cork or block with flannel).

For mechanized processing (in this case, electric or cordless drills are used as a drive), rotary brushes are used. They are placed on a special axis, one side of which serves as a handle for holding, and the other is attached to the drill chuck.

Rotary brushes are similar in terms of the “bristle” materials used to the manual brushes listed above.

METAL BRUSHES

(except steel) are mainly used to clean the sliding surface and microstructure from old paraffin and dirt.

STEEL BRUSHES

usually used not so much to remove paraffin, but to apply a fine microstructure to the sliding surface (depending on weather conditions).

Steel brush	copper brush	brass brush

NYLON BRUSHES

are hard, medium and soft. Hard wax is used to remove harder (frosty) paraffin, medium wax is used to remove soft wax (intended for transitional and warm weather). Soft brushes are used for final polishing of sliding surfaces.

Nylon brush hard	Nylon brush soft	Nylon brush medium

NATURAL BRUSHES

are used to remove soft wax and to treat surfaces after powders and accelerators have been applied to them.

POLISHING BRUSHES

are used for dry (without the use of an iron) method of applying compressed and conventional (loose) powders.

TIP: It will be better if you use one specific brush for each type of powder. In other words, it is not necessary to process positive and frosty powder with the same brush.

Fibrous porous fabric (fibertex)

Fibertex is a non-woven nylon fiber with or without abrasive microparticles.

RIGID FIBERTEX WITH ABRASIVE

used to remove pile after scraping the sliding surface.

SOFT FIBERTEX WITH ABRASIVE

To remove the upper very thin layer of the surface (in fact, a kind of smoothing) without changing the structure of the ski.

FIBERTEX WITHOUT ABRASIVE

serves for polishing sliding surfaces.

3. Paraffins and holding ointments

Paraffins

Paraffins are the basis for the care of the sliding surface. For most leading manufacturers, the line of paraffins has two or three varieties of ointment for different snow temperatures. In addition, waxes can vary in the content of fluorine and other additives. Paraffins with a high fluorine content are more expensive, they are more "slippery", but at the same time they are quickly wiped off the sliding surface. Additionally, all-weather ground paraffins are produced - not very slippery, but cheap, they are mainly used to prepare skis for long-term storage and transportation. It is customary to make paraffins for different snow temperatures in different colors. Commonly used colors are yellow for "warmer" snow, red for colder snow, and blue for the "coldest" of paraffins. Ground paraffin is usually white, like regular medical wax. The application of paraffin is a separate topic, and will be discussed below.

Pastes and aerosols

Fluoride pastes and aerosols are generally "all-weather". The manufacturer claims that they glide well on snow of any temperature and humidity. Unfortunately, this is not always the case. Snow is a complex structure. There are such combinations of its temperature and crystal size, when no ointments help. But in most cases, applying fluoride paste to a ski that is not “slippery” enough to some extent helps to correct the situation. However, there are several limitations when using pastes. Firstly, to apply the paste, the sliding surface of the ski must be pre-paraffinized, otherwise the paste will be instantly erased. And secondly, the paste is quickly wiped off even from a waxed sliding surface. But since the paste is a cold application, it can be updated without any problems right on the slope. As a rule, a tube of paste is equipped with a sponge. Evenly distributing the ointment on the sliding surface of the ski, you need to wait for it to dry (usually a few minutes, the exact time is indicated by the manufacturer on the package), and then polish the surface.

Accelerators

Despite the fact that the name of this category of means of preparing a sliding surface is extremely "unscientific", accelerators are a rather interesting thing, although useless for the average user. These very "slippery" things are available in the form of solid briquettes (tablets) and in the form of powders. Accelerators usually contain fluorine compounds and graphite, which has an antistatic effect. Why are they useless for the average skier? The fact is that you can feel the presence of the accelerator only on a well-prepared track, while filigree owning the technique, minimizing extraneous slipping and braking. In addition, accelerators wipe off very quickly - they are often applied right before the start, on pre-prepared skis. The sliding surface (necessarily treated with high-fluorine paraffin) is evenly rubbed with an accelerator briquette, then vigorously polished with a special bar resembling a cork. The powder accelerator is evenly sprinkled on the sliding surface of the ski, then cauterized with an iron, and then polished.

Cleaning the sliding surface.

Cleaning can be done in two ways - using a special liquid wash or using ground (low fluoride) paraffin. With a wash, everything is simple - you need to soak a non-woven rag with liquid, and then wipe the sliding surface thoroughly with it. Hot cleaning is a little trickier. Paraffin is applied to the ski, and when it cools, it is scraped off with a plastic scraper. You will see that the wax being scraped off is saturated with dirt. After scraping, carefully work the sliding surface with a nylon or bronze brush. Repeat if necessary. And then, to heighten the effect, you can wipe the ski with a wash. Do not use solvents to remove dirt from the sliding surface, as they dry it out.

4. The process of preparing skis (classic and skate)

The need for ski lubrication is determined in an obvious way. If they do not glide well, snow sticks to the sliding surface, and when moving it seems that someone is stepping on your skis from behind, then it's time to think about lubrication.

Let's start with the fact that according to the "rules" of skiing, it is necessary to prepare for each exit to the ski track, although this is not necessary. But if yesterday your skis glided well, and today the temperature and humidity of the air (and, accordingly, snow) have changed - this is a sure sign that it is worth remembering what the skis were smeared with yesterday and making adjustments. If the weather is more or less even, the snow is good, and you are a lazy person, then after processing the skis good paraffin you can safely ride 15-20 km, usually paraffin keeps on the sliding surface of the skis for so long.

Sometimes the sliding surface of the ski looks like it is “dried up”, covered with some kind of white “coating”. In fact, these are microvilli sticking out of the sliding surface of the skis, torn apart by snow crystals. Such a "plaque" is an excellent reason to paraffin the skis, but try not to allow it to appear, as during oxidation the sliding surface loses precious fluorine, graphite and other impurities contained in it. In addition to abrasion, the sliding surface with paraffin applied to it is subject to another unpleasant phenomenon - it perfectly absorbs various dirt, which is clearly visible when the sliding surface initially has a white color and then starts to turn gray (at present, skis with a white sliding surface practically do not released, as it was already noticed earlier, the composition of the sliding surface includes such components as fluorine and graphite, which give it a dark color). The fact is that the polyethylene from which the sliding surface is made is a porous material. These pores absorb wax, especially when applied hot, and help it stay in place longer. But dirt gets in these pores. Therefore, before applying fresh paraffin, the sliding surface should be cleaned by removing the old contaminated paraffin. In addition, the so-called structure - microscopic grooves - can be applied to the prepared sliding surface. When preparing cross-country skis, the structure can be applied with special knurling at home, moreover, the step and depth of its grooves is determined by the state of the snow, namely, by the size of its crystals.

And now in more detail.

4.1.Preparation of classic skis

Clean up the holding area.

To clean classic skis from old ointment, both the “hot” method and the “cold” method can be used. In the first case:

1. We close the ski area covered with ointment, toilet paper or napkins.

2. Warm up with an iron until the ointment is absorbed into the paper.

3. Using the plastic cycle, remove this impregnated paper. If necessary, repeat this procedure.

4. Remove the remaining dirt with a wash.

In the second case, the old holding ointment is removed with a plastic scraper and a wash.

Particular difficulties arise when removing the "old" (after long-term storage of skis) ointment, in this case it may be necessary to use all methods of removing the ointment.

Paraffin can also be used to cleanse the old holding ointment. It is necessary to paraffin that part of the ski on which the old ointment is located and until the paraffin has completely hardened, remove it with a scraper along with the old ointment. If necessary, repeat this procedure several times.

Preparing a block for classic skis

First you need to decide on the holding area (more on this in the inventory selection section).

For better grip and retention on the ski surface of the holding ointment, today it is customary to “raise the pile” in the holding area. To do this, it is necessary to process the holding area with fine-grained sandpaper for example - P100.

To improve glide, skis for “classic” skiing must be treated in the same way as skis for “skating” skiing, with only one but, they do not paraffin in the holding area, so as not to worsen the adhesion of the ointment to the ski surface. Well, if you have no time, then you can do without the preparation for sliding and go straight to the preparation for holding.

The ointment is more even when applied cold and when applied in several thin layers. It is better (and more correct) to rub the ointment on a profile machine.

Rubbing the ointment is done with quick movements. The cork rubs due to the heat created by friction, but if there is too much heat, the ointment will begin to stretch, resulting in lumps and gaps.

Remember that when using liquid waxes, the block should be shorter, since the coefficient of adhesion with snow for liquid waxes is much higher compared to solid waxes. On average, when using liquid ointment, the block becomes shorter by 15 cm. Many skiers, when switching to liquid ointments, not only make the block shorter, but often even switch to stiffer skis. In addition, the length of the distance has a great influence on the length of the block when switching to liquid ointments - the longer it is, the more the athlete gets tired, the more confident he needs to hold, and hence the longer block. In this case, the block is shortened compared to solid ointments not by 20 cm, but by 15 or only 10 cm.

Block for solid holding ointment

Block for holding liquid ointment (klister)

4.2. Skating preparation

Before you start preparing skating skis, try to remember and follow simple rules during the preparation process.

Spend some money on a good lubrication iron - it will work better and keep your skis from overheating. Most recreational skiers use a household iron, setting the temperature somewhere in the region... "cotton", "silk" or "synthetic". This is unacceptable ... Household irons have a thin “sole” that quickly heats up and also cools down quickly, and when preparing skis, it is necessary that the temperature of the iron be set as long as possible. When setting the temperature on a household iron, you can only guess it, and when using a special iron, its thermostat has an indicator of the desired temperature, most professional irons today come with electronic thermostats that help control the temperature more accurately.

HERE IS HOW YOU SHOULD USE THE IRON

After the iron has reached the correct temperature (which is usually the temperature at which the wax begins to melt on the surface of the iron), the iron is moved from the tip of the ski to the end in one continuous pass. Transfer the iron and start the same procedure again with the toe of the ski. Repeat the process from 3-4 times. This process guarantees right time, spent on warming up the ski and a small chance of overheating the base.

Paraffin application - crucial moment with proper ski preparation.

Simple facts:

. Dry oxidized polyethylene can lead to the appearance of a "forced" base.

. Old dry bases do not absorb paraffin, especially fluoride.

. A poorly processed base loses its applied structure faster.

. The speed of your racing wax is highly dependent on the condition of the skis prior to waxing.

. Ultimately, overheating can reduce the efficiency and performance of all paraffins, especially those containing 100% fluorine.

Ski primer

Apply primer wax. In this case, it is desirable to use paraffin in excess, warming up the skis two or three times without intermediate scraping and adding paraffin insofar as it is absorbed into the surface.

Cool down your skis. After 20 - 30 minutes, remove excess paraffin with a plastic scraper and treat the surface with a nylon brush. Carry out this treatment of the sliding surface several times with a thorough cleaning with a nylon brush after each layer. With the above ski primer, we must achieve the creation of a gleaming layer on the surface.

If the weather conditions require a ski to have structure and the skis do not have a factory topcoat, you must manually make the appropriate structure. The structure is always applied before the base wax is applied to the ski. True, sometimes the weather interferes with this work order: for example, in the last hour before the start, the temperature and humidity change dramatically. In this case, the structure has to be applied after the base wax.

When priming a sliding surface under basic paraffin, remember:

the melting point of the wax used in the primer must be higher than the melting point of the base wax, i.e. the priming wax should be more refractory (in this case, the base wax does not mix with the priming wax). In the case of cold weather, when frosty, and therefore refractory hard wax is used as the main wax, and it is not possible to use a harder one as a primer, we prime the skis with paraffin similar in hardness to the main wax.

With very old, hard, “aggressive” snow, if the weather is the same for a long period of time (especially frost), and just to remove electrostatic voltage from the surface when priming, it is recommended to use paraffin - “antistatic” (for example, “START” - antistatic or “REX” - antistatic, etc.)

when priming skis for the appropriate weather under ordinary paraffin, you must use a simple one, and under a fluorine-containing one - fluoride.

Application of base wax (corresponding to the weather)

Under the appropriate weather, we select the most suitable paraffin. After choosing a suitable paraffin, apply it to the sliding surface, melting the paraffin bar on the iron and thus filling the ski with a thick layer of melted hot paraffin. After the paraffin has cooled, its excess is removed with a plastic scraper. Next, a nylon brush (hard) removes paraffin residues. Then you need to polish to a shine with a softer brush.

When applying paraffin, you need to know the following: if paraffin is used for frosty weather (more refractory paraffin), then most of it must be removed before it hardens, because if the refractory paraffin is allowed to cool completely, it will become hard and will chip off the ski in pieces during scraping, leaving large expanses of wax-free skis. After the final cooling of the ski, the remaining paraffin is removed with a plastic scraper and then with a stiff nylon brush.

Application of the last layer - accelerator

The powder is sprinkled in a thin layer on a sliding surface, and then melted with an iron (the correct melting of the powder is evidenced by peculiar “dancing” sparks or stars that appear within one or two seconds after the passage of the iron). At the same time, it is desirable to melt the powder in one motion, when the iron slowly moves along the ski.

After cooling, the sliding surface of the ski is cleaned of excess powder with a natural brush (horsehair) and polished.

TIP: when cleaning the sliding surface from powder residues (accelerator), do not press hard on the ski - make gentle movements with slight pressure on the brush.

Powders and accelerators can also be ground cold, without using an iron. To do this, the powder is sprinkled on the sliding surface of the ski (and the ski is rubbed with an accelerator, respectively) and rubbed with a hand, natural cork or a special polishing cork. Then they are processed with a natural brush and polished with polishing paper. However, the powder applied in this way is held on the ski worse than the powder fixed on the skis with a hot iron, and this way preparation of skis is recommended only when participating in competitions for short (5-10 km) distances.

Lubricant

The preparation of skis for skating and classic runs is significantly different, this is due to a number of features and specifics of both the skis themselves and the differences in the push-slide phases during these moves.

It is important when preparing skis that their surface must be dry, clean and at room temperature!

There is also a difference in the preparation of plastic and wooden skis (plastic also includes semi-plastic skis). Everything related to the use of paraffins (lubricants), powders, accelerators and other special preparations is applicable only to plastic skis and skis with a plastic sliding base. As for the ointment, it is used equally on both wooden and plastic skis.

The selection of lubricant is a very complicated procedure, almost an art. Coaches and team lubricators spend months, if not years, gaining experience in handling and working with materials and accessories. various firms manufacturers. Unfortunately, their knowledge and experience is usually kept secret and shared only with teammates. But in many cities, service centers are already appearing (at the end), at ski bases and rentals, where ski preparation, for a purely nominal fee, is carried out by specialists. Of course, the cost of such a service will largely depend on the cost of the materials used for preparation, but on the other hand, a person will get great pleasure from skiing itself, receive competent advice, qualified ski care and remove the very problem of selecting lubrication and preparation.

For those who want to prepare skis on their own, there are some rules and recommendations outlined below. Basically, when selecting lubricants, they are guided by their financial capabilities, since often the quality of materials is determined by their price (although exceptions are possible).

The market for lubricants and service materials is becoming more saturated every year, and the task of the sales assistant is to help the buyer choose the best option. It is generally accepted that Swix is ​​the world leader in the production of lubricants (although it is very conditional and controversial). There are also such foreign brands as: “START”, “Briko” and many others, but all of them are distinguished by the high price of materials, with no guarantee best result. This is due to different climatic conditions “they have” and in Russia. After all, grease of the same brand, in different climatic zones, in different regions, at the same temperature and humidity, works completely differently, and sometimes does not work at all. Although it could show excellent results. All this equally applies to domestic lubricants. Their choice is not as great as the choice of imported ones, but their price is lower by several orders of magnitude, and the quality is sometimes not inferior, and sometimes even superior to imported counterparts.

Among them are: "LUCH" Yekaterinburg, "M VIS" Moscow, "ANCOR" Kirov. Of course, the eminent “Visti” N.Novgorod, which have been sales leaders in Russia for many years and are popular not so much because of the quality, but because of the price.

Skate run.

Due to the fact that the entire sliding surface of the ski “works” in the skating course, which is associated with the peculiarity of the push, therefore the entire surface is subject to maintenance and processing. The preparation of skis for skating is as follows: paraffin is applied to dry, clean skis, to the entire sliding surface by rubbing, or, if the paraffin is refractory, it is better to apply it in a jet-drop from a hot iron, when the bar of applied paraffin is pressed against the sole of a heated service iron. Do not overheat the paraffin! After cooling, the paraffin is removed with a plastic scraper. The remains of small particles of paraffin are “torn out” from the pores of the plastic with a hard copper or synthetic brush. Then the surface is polished with a soft brush made of natural bristles. This procedure is necessary to give the fused paraffin particles a directional structure.

Classic move.

The difficulty of preparing skis for classic move, lies in the need to use a holding ointment. Before applying it to the sliding ends of the skis (dry and clean), they apply a slip lubricant (paraffin) in the above order, while the block, or as it is also called, the cargo area, is left clean. This is due to the fact that the ointment applied to paraffin during the sliding process significantly loses its original qualities and, in addition, the duration of its action decreases by an order of magnitude. Simply put, it simply “does not hold” and very quickly leaves the surface of the ski.

Ointment, like paraffin, is selected according to the temperature and humidity indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer. It is applied by rubbing, not too thick, “under the block”, as some skiers say. Then the applied ointment is rubbed with a natural or synthetic cork until a shiny homogeneous film appears on the surface of the ski. You should not strongly “pull” the ointment on the surface of the skis either up or down.

It is possible to level the ointment with a service iron, while it must be clean (from paraffin residues), and not too hot so as not to overheat the ointment! In general, when selecting equipment, first of all, it is necessary to be based on the wishes of each client and his individual characteristics, such as the length of arms and legs, height and weight, and their proportional ratio. It is impossible not to note the decisive role of the client's financial capabilities in the selection of inventory, lubricants and accessories, because the “limited size of the wallet” will significantly narrow the choice of possible options and models from the proposed range. Therefore, the selection of equipment, inventory, lubricants and accessories is a creative process, but complex and time-consuming. Although it can be exciting both for the sales assistant (if he is well prepared) and for the buyer himself.

Shishkin Pavel Pavlovich
Kirov LLC “Ankor.Sport”.