From the ability to knit correctly and apply the basic climbing knots The life of not only the climber, but also the group depends on it. Learn about the main climbing knots.

There are twelve main knots in mountaineering. Here you can add a couple more “tasty” knots and you get 17. Knowing how to knit knots is useful, but not enough. You need to know and be able to apply knots in different situations. Plus, you need to be able to knit climbing knots in winter mittens, with your eyes closed, behind your back and with your eyes closed in mittens behind your back. Suddenly you find yourself in a situation where at night on high altitude in 30 degree frost you will need to tie a knot ... the head will not boil, only repeated repetition and muscle memory will help you. And therefore - practice knitting climbing knots all the time!

Basic climbing knots.

There is 12 basic climbing knots that you need to know how to knit:

1. figure eight knot
2. Node Explorer
3. Austrian conductor knot
4. Prusik knot
5. Bachmann knot
6. knot grapevine
7. Counter node
8. Bramstring knot
9. Node UIAA
10. Knot Stirrup
11. bowline knot
12. Control Node

Nodes are divided into 4 groups:

• Looped: figure eight, conductor, Austrian conductor, bowline
• Grasping: Prusik, French, Austrian, Bachmann
• Binders: grapevine, counter, bramshkotovy
• Special/Auxiliary: control knot, uyaa, stirrup, guard knot

The twelve basic climbing knots are:

Loop knots.

1. Explorer

It is used for tying to a rope and organizing self-insurance. The knot is used in solving many problems in mountaineering.

Pros: Easy to knit, easy to remember. You can tie both at the end of the rope and in the middle. Can be tied at one end.

Minuses: Strongly tightened under load. "Crawls", especially on a hard rope.

Be sure to knit a control knot!

How to knit a conductor knot:

2. Eight

A simple and very reliable knot. It is used to secure the rope to the climbing harness, that is, for tying. When tying to a harness, the knot loop should be slightly smaller size fist.

Be sure to tie a control knot- the knot should fit snugly against the "eight". After tying the G-8 knot with the control knot, the tip of the rope 5-7 cm long should remain.

How to knit a figure eight knot with a loop:

The recent vicissitudes of the Moscow weather: squally wind and hurricanes did not pass by the holy places either - a cross loosened on the central Armenian church. It was necessary to get close to the cross and secure it with 20 mm bolts. Neither the aerial platform nor the pikaniska, a type of automatic lift, was suitable for this. Our company had to solve this problem, and we began to look for options on how to get to the dome. It should be noted that the repair of temples has its own characteristics - it is extremely difficult to fix climbing equipment on such a building.

Armenian temple

This is one of the spiritual centers of Armenians in Russia. The Cathedral of the Transfiguration of the Lord, located on the territory of the complex, is the largest outside of Armenia.

Cross on the temple

The cross weighs over 2 tons and is 7 meters high and was made in Tula. With the cross, its height is 58 meters. The diameter of the dome of the cathedral is 21 meters. 72 crosses are carved around the circle - according to the number of the younger disciples of Christ.

WORKING PROCESS

To climb up and repair the temple cross, it was necessary to throw a rope over it. Alpprom specialists have outlined two options for how to do this: the first is to first transfer a thin cord with the help of a quadrocopter, connect it to the rope and drag it through; the second is to use the Big Shot slingshot, which allows you to throw a line or cord with a shot. But all the same weather did not allow to realize the plan - there was a strong wind.

Setting

Before taking off, you need to calibrate the drone's gyrocopters. In addition, you need to connect the remote control to the quadcopter. When the quadcopter is already up in the air, you need to make additional trim adjustments so that it can hover in one place.

Control

Careless operation of a quadcopter can result in property damage, injury, cuts, injury, and even death, as well as the seizure of your equipment and problems with law enforcement.

And yet, industrial climbers are not used to giving up, so they decided to conquer this "peak" by such a method as "perforating" - speleological ascent with the help of a perforator. This time everything went well: the ascent was completed, two nooses were thrown on the spire, they were pulled up to the base of the cross and proceeded to the next stage - now it was necessary to fix the cross with bolts. However, it became clear on the spot that it would not be possible to drill 90 mm of stainless steel with a hand tool, then Alpprom employees began to coordinate with the customer another mounting option - welding.

Insurance

They worked in pairs. We constantly needed to back each other up.

Additional mount

An attempt to fix the cross on a bolted connection.

Fortunately, the workshop at the temple turned out to have all the necessary accessories: stainless steel electrodes and a welding machine. And our specialists performing the task had the necessary qualifications and experience to carry out high-quality welding work. Industrial climbers completely coped with the task. Despite the difficulties that arose, they quickly found a new solution, which allowed them to successfully complete the repair of the temple cross.

"The knot will be tied, the knot will be untied ..."- this is how the Russian singer Alena Apina sings in the once popular song. Only in mountaineering, the knot must be tied so that there is no unforeseen “untied”, but at the same time, if necessary, it should be easily untied.

Most of the climbing knots are of marine origin. In the beginning it was ... Hence the marine names of many knots.

Quite often, we use various nodes in everyday life, without even thinking about their name, origin and use in mountaineering or navigation.

When classifying nodes in mountaineering, they most often rely on their purpose and distinguish 3 categories:

• binding (or for binding);
• strapping (or for strapping and loops);
• auxiliary.

Knots for tying ribbons and ropes

Used for tying ribbons and ropes, both the same diameter and different.

In the first case, most often used:

• direct (marine);
• clew;
• weaving.

In the second:

• counter;
• bramshkotovy;
• academic.

straight knot

The straight knot is very simple to perform: both ends of the rope are parallel on one side.

Its main drawback is spontaneous "sliding", i.e. propensity for self-unleashing.

In this regard, for additional strength, its ends are strengthened with control safety knots (“controls”), although in everyday life this is most often not necessary. These "controls" under extreme loads on the rope will prevent it from slipping and untying the main knot.

How to tie a straight knot step by step

Grapevine

The grapevine knot is considered reliable and beautiful. It is used not only for tying ribbons and ropes, but also for knitting loops for bookmarks and guy loops.

It is extremely practical when tying a lanyard loop.

The advantage of this node is the ability to adjust the length of the loop.

Under the influence of the load, it is able to tighten strongly.

Step-by-step instructions for knitting a grapevine knot

Counter node

The counter knot is ideal if you need to tie completely different materials, for example, a ribbon with a rope, a rope with a cord, etc.

It not only holds well and does not creep, but is also easily untied after removing the load. At the same time, it tightens perfectly under load.

The counter node has a second name - looped. In the practice of mountaineering, loops of braid of different widths are often used. To tie them, only a counter knot is used. That's where the second name comes from.

Step-by-step instructions for knitting an oncoming knot

clew knot

The clew knot creeps only under variable loads, but at the same time it does not tighten.

This knot belongs to the category of reliable and knitting easily.

Tying "controls" is a must.

Knitting a clew knot step by step

weaving knot

The weaving knot is very simple in execution, but it is able to tighten strongly under heavy loads and crawl under variable loads.

It is often used during rescue operations in the mountains while providing assistance to victims.

Step by step instructions for knitting a weaving knot

Bramstring knot

Bramshkotovy knot is single and double.

Perfectly binds ropes of different diameters. When performing, you need to monitor the parallel arrangement of the strands and the correctness of the knot pattern.

academic node

The academic node is a relative of the direct node.

Ideal for tying ropes of different diameters.

A loop is made with a thick rope, and a loop is wrapped with a thin one. Be sure to tie control knots for reliability.

Knots for tying and loops

These knots are used to tie the climber when organizing insurance and to form non-tightening loops.

Remember the beginning of the movie with Sylvester Stallone?

Bowline

Bowline is used for tying to the main rope.

There are two options for knitting a knot. Traditional sequence and knitting with one end of the rope. The second option is more suitable for tying the chest harness harness.

A simple bowline needs to be fixed with a control knot, as it is prone to unraveling. This knot must always be tightly tightened.

Bowline knot step by step instructions

double bowline

The double bowline was proposed by the mountaineering instructor Emelyanov E.B. for binding as particularly reliable.

When knitting it, a soft rope or half-rope about 5 meters or a 20 mm tape is used.

The knot is characterized by the presence of two self-insurance loops:

1. At the end of the rope that enters the loops of the chest harness.
2. This one is longer, at the end of which it connects the gazebo loops.

This knot allows, in the presence of self-insurance on a short loop, not only to dissolve lower part pergola, but also to remove it. This technique is used when there is a need to change clothes while moving along the rock (for example, take off).

Node Explorer

The conductor knot has one indisputable advantage - the extraordinary simplicity of its knitting.

Sometimes we often use it in everyday life, not even suspecting that the knot is climbing!

Since the conductor tends to be strongly tightened under the influence of a load, it is recommended to insert a metal object into the plexus, which will simplify its further untying.

This simple knot can be made either at the end or in the middle of a rope. One of the nodes often used in rescue work.

Application:

• in the absence of a harness for tying to the middle of the rope;
• for tying ropes.

figure eight knot

The figure eight knot is one of those knots that does not require control knots.

It is characteristic that it does not drag on and does not creep.

This knot is obtained as a result of an additional half-turn of the loop after knitting the initial stage of the conductor.

Step-by-step instructions for knitting a figure eight knot

Auxiliary nodes

This includes a number of nodes that are necessary when pulling the crossing and railings, when lifting a load or a person.

Knot (loop) Garda

Knot (loop) Garda is applicable on a rope of any condition. Very easy to tie.

Used:

• when transporting the victim;
• for insurance.

Grasping knot

The grasping knot has lost its position in the category of the main ones used for insurance.

This is due to the fact that in practice and during tests in extreme conditions very often there was a melting, or even worse - a break in the knot. However, it does a great job when there is not much friction when moving very fast on the rope.

It is knitted from an auxiliary rope to the main one. There are two ways to knit it:

• loop;
• one end of the cord.

Tip: to increase reliability, you can knit three turns.

Bachmann knot and carabiner knot

The Bachmann knot (Fig. a - c) can be easily pulled along the rope in the absence of load. Its reliability is manifested in any kind of work on the transportation of victims.

You can knit on single and double rope.

Step-by-step instructions for knitting a Bachmann knot

The carabiner knot (Fig. d, e) has the same characteristics and application as the Bachmann knot.

Stirrup

The stirrup can be called a universal knot, which is very easy to tie even at the end of the rope, even in the middle.

You climbed to the shelf, and there is a tree. Instead of assembling a station from bookmarks, hooks and loops, make it on a tree. If it is thick, then it probably corresponds to:

• Durable- a tree 15 cm thick can withstand up to 15 kN.
• He doesn't need spread the load, it is not needed block with extra dot, because it is one and reliable.
• The tree station is ready for unexpected change in load. The tree will remain in place if the second participant fell off on the traverse in front of the station or the spotter was thrown up when the leader fell off.

perfect tree

At the base, its thickness is greater than or equal to the diameter of the helmet. It is alive or dried up recently. The ideal tree grows in a few square meters of normal soil, not in a pile of sand or gravel.

Do not trust old rotten stumps!
Make stations on living trees.

tree station

If you still have a loop of the desired length, circle it around the tree and fasten the ends with a carabiner.

The loop should be long enough not to tighten around the tree. If it is wrapped too tightly around the tree, the carabiner connecting the ends will have to be loaded from three sides.

A carbine loaded in three directions. Don't do it

And with the control - it is considered

Do not stand on self-insurance in the resulting loop! You will load the node to the side, but it does not work like that. Below, on the cargo strand, tie a pointed eight, Austrian guide or stirrup. For self-insurance, stand in the resulting knot. More about the node: .

ledge

To quickly make a reliable station, throw a loop over the ledge. Make sure it's not a loose stone. If the ledge is questionable, try to loosen it. Do not stand under it while you stagger: if it breaks off, it will fall on your head. Get up so that he drove to the side if he falls off.

Didn't fall off, great. If there is a loop left, make a station out of it. If not - from the rope. See if the ledge has sharp edges that a sling or rope can rub against. If available, place an extra mitten, backpack, or mat under the loop. While the partner is rising, secure the loop with a rope. Before climbing, untie the safety net to climb out the full length of the rope.

A popular practice is to beat down sharp edges with a hammer. This is an opportunity to leave a mark on history. The notch in the tree will heal over time, and generations and generations of followers will see your mark on the rock. It contradicts rule:

Take away nothing but memories
Leave nothing but footprints!

When making a station on a ledge, make sure it can withstand the upward pull. This is important for all stations, but especially for ledges. If the leader puts a safe point and breaks, you will be pulled up:

How to throw up the insurer when the leader breaks

To prevent the loop from coming off, lay the bookmark so that it works up:

The loop is secured with a bookmark

If the ledge has a mushroom shape, tie the base tightly with a loop. If you knit from cord or rope, knit close and that's it. If you do from a loop, then like this:

Rope climbing can be done in a variety of ways. For this, special descenders are used ("eight", "Radeberger", "Stop" by Petzl, Antron, I "D", etc.). carbine, UIAA knot, improvised items, etc.

The choice of descender depends on the specifics of work, financial capabilities or habits. The main requirement for the descender is that it must be certified, must not have mechanical damage or signs of wear of a visually detectable value, provide a reliable stop in any place, provided that it is used strictly in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations.

The organization of descent along a fixed rope (assuming that the anchoring points are checked) begins with the inclusion of the ISS descending into the safety chain (plugging into the ISS the carabiner of the top insurance, or attaching the lanyard to safety rope using a gripping knot or safety device). Further, a harness is hung on a static carrier rope with the help of a descender and transferred over the bend of the roof, structures, etc. If the insurance is carried out by a partner, then before the start of the descent, you must perform a mandatory ritual. Ask: - "Insurance ready?" Start the descent only after the answer: “Ready”. If the descent is made independently, it is necessary, being on a self-belay, once again to check the reliability of fastening the clamp or the grasping knot on the safety rope and the correct fastening of the climber's ISS on the saddle and only after that unfasten the self-belay.

Crossing a bend is a matter of experience, since bends can be of various types: with a curb, without a curb, with a fence, with access under the eaves, from a horizontal surface or from a slope, etc. It is convenient to use the saddle. as an intermediate leg support before landing. The main condition is that when passing through the inflection there should not be a jerk.

The speed of descent should not exceed 1 - 1.5 m/sec. Otherwise, there is a risk of melting the sheath of the rope and prematurely disabling it. An even greater danger is the increased speed of descent if a grasping knot is used in the second safety chain. It can melt due to the heat generated by rubbing against the safety rope while moving.

It is not superfluous to recall: the point of fixing the self-insurance on the safety rope should be higher than the point of its fixing on the ISS.

As for the grasping knot, it cannot be left unattended. An uncontrolled knot can arbitrarily slide below the point of attachment of the cord on the ISS, creating a value of the jerk factor above the critical one. The same possibility exists for spontaneous tightening of the knot. In order to avoid trouble with the grasping knot during descent, the controlling hand must be placed above the knot. You can’t hold the knot in your fist: in the event of a breakdown and reflex compression of your fingers, you will go down without stopping, as the knot will slip and even melt. The most reliable is the location of the gripping knot below the descender: the load on it is minimal (it is perceived by the descender), and if the rope is released, the worker automatically stops.