The press conference was attended by two-time Olympic champion in gymnastics, First Deputy Head of CSKA Lieutenant Colonel Svetlana Khorkina, senior coach of CSKA and the national team of the Armed Forces of the Russian Federation - President of the Russian Rock Climbing Federation Dmitry Bychkov, CSKA team coach Sergey Sigov and press secretary of the CSKA command Ekaterina Agafonova, as well as about 20 army climbers - candidates for participation in the III Winter Military World Games.
“The purpose of the War Games is to promote world peace and establish close ties between the armed forces of different countries in the field of sports and physical education. Sports victories unite, so we want our military climbers to win as many medals as possible and set world records, ”the presentation of the climbing wall began with these words of the great army gymnast, where in less than a month for medals in four disciplines (difficulty, bouldering , as well as speed in a record and classic format) about 70 military personnel from 11 countries will fight.
Dmitry Bychkov noted that this climbing wall will be used to prepare the national team for the 2020 Olympic Games in Tokyo.
“The presented climbing wall is a unique facility for Russian sports, which can be used to host stages of international tournaments of various categories, including the Olympic Games. An analogue of this climbing wall was used at the 2016 World Championships in Paris, - said Dmitry Bychkov.
The height of the climbing wall is 15 meters, width - 12 meters, hanging over the base 7 meters, i.e. the slope is about 30 degrees. The total weight of the climbing wall is about 60 tons. 15 trucks will be used to transport the climbing wall to the Bolshoy Sports Palace in Sochi.
For the equipment of sports tracks, the number of which is not limited in theory, 6,000 holds (3,000 Russian and 3,000 foreign) and 110 reliefs (60 Russian and 50 foreign) were purchased. The equipment of the climbing wall meets all international requirements.
After the presentation, about twenty media representatives tried their hand at speed climbing, the discipline in which our team has the best chance of winning the Sochi Military Games. The best of the journalists was able to climb to a height of seven meters in a minute and a half, while military athletes climb to the top point (15 meters) in 15 seconds.
The presentation of the climbing wall ended with a group photo of members of the Russian Armed Forces team, the coaching staff and official representatives of CSKA.
Climbing competitions at the III Winter Military World Games will be held from 24 to 27 February. After the Military Games, the climbing wall will be installed in the CSKA athletics arena on Leningradsky Prospekt in Moscow. As Dmitry Bychkov noted, “in the new Olympic cycle, the rock climbing wall installed in the CSKA exercise therapy center will become the main training base for the Russian team, where the main All-Russian competitions will also be held.”
On February 24-28, 2017, a significant event in Russian and international rock climbing took place: 3rd Military World Winter Games (3rd CISM World Winter Games). The course of the competition was followed not only by numerous spectators in Sochi, but also by television viewers throughout Russia. Broadcasts were conducted through the websites of Match-TV, Sportbox, Zvezda, the official website of the Military Games http://cismsochi2017.ru, the Nash Sport TV channel, and various reports were even published on Channel One.
Stas, please tell us about your role in the broadcasts from the Military Games.
I was invited to Ostankino as a commentator, as an expert in rock climbing. We covered all three events (difficulty, bouldering, speed), mostly semi-finals and finals, which are the most interesting. The task was to tell what rock climbing is, how one subspecies differs from another, what features can be, and to tell during the broadcast about the nuances that may not be visible or understandable to viewers.
Who did you comment with?
I was lucky to work together with an experienced Match-TV commentator, Leonid Naroditsky. Leonid's television career began in 2004 on NTV+ as a sports correspondent covering volleyball and billiards. Then he began to comment on the Olympic Games (taekwondo), and since 2010 he appeared in the frame as a sports news presenter in the studio of the Today program (NTV). The Winter Olympic Games in Turin, Vancouver, Sochi were a parallel course in my career. For 12 years, Leonid has commented and continues to comment on Nordic Combined - a unique sport that combines seemingly incompatible things: ski jumping and a 10 km race on classic skis - all in one day. Our favorite rock climbing - a new Olympic sport - is a new peak to conquer, new emotions, a new challenge for the experienced Naroditsky, because, in his opinion, a commentator should never stop developing.
What highlights of the competition do you remember the most?
I remember a lot of things! This is the scale of the competition, and a huge arena, which accommodated everyone who wanted to watch and support our military, and, of course, a climbing wall. Specially for the III Winter Military World Games, a unique complex of climbing walls was assembled, which has the highest level of difficulty of tracks among similar Russian structures. The height of the structure is 15 m, the width is 12 m, the overhang is 7 m, the deviation is about 30 degrees. I also remember all the victories, very colorful and emotional, especially for our guys.
How did our climbers perform at the War Games?
Our entire national team is very strong, everyone deserves respect and, of course, medals. I would like to note our strongest athletes at that time, who in an equal fight brought Russia a total of 9 medals:
- Luzhetsky Sergey - gold (speed - classic)
Timonov Vadim - gold (bouldering)
Tsyganova Anna - gold (speed - classic)
Tsyganova Anna - gold (speed - standard)
Yakovleva Olga - silver (bouldering)
Timonov Vadim - bronze (speed - classic)
Luzhetsky Sergey - bronze (speed - standard)
Kan Darya - bronze (speed - standard)
Lapshina Evgenia - bronze (speed - classic)
How do you think rock climbing is developing in Russia in general?
The development of climbing in Russia is slow, although everyone is trying to work at 100%, and the Federation of Russia, and regional federations, and individual clubs. But, unfortunately, there is very little support for our sport, we do everything on our own. Despite this, at the moment we have a rather powerful team, there are clear world leaders. Now rock climbing has become part of the Olympic family, which cannot but rejoice, we have all been waiting for this for many years. I hope that official support will be more tangible, and we will be able to educate future Olympic champions at modern world-class training facilities. I also hope that events such as the War Games will promote our wonderful sport among adults and children.
From February 22 to February 28, 2017, Sochi will host the III Winter Military World Games, which will include rock climbing competitions.
70 athletes from Russia, Spain, Belgium, Slovenia, Italy, Austria, Germany, France, Switzerland and Kazakhstan will participate in the competition. Competitions will be held on a 15-meter climbing wall located in the Bolshoy Sports Palace (http://cismsochi2017.ru/sports/sport-climbing/#not-set:all).
The CSKA team for the upcoming tournament included:
Dmitry Sharafutdinov (Sverdlovsk region) - 3-time world champion (2007, 2011, 2012) in bouldering, world champion (2007) and European (2013) in all-around,
Anna Tsyganova (Krasnoyarsk Territory) - world champion (2016) and European (2013) in speed,
Olga Yakovleva (Samara region) - silver medalist of the World Championship (2012) in bouldering,
Dmitry Fakiryanov (Sverdlovsk region) - silver medalist of the World Cup stage (2016) in Xiamen in difficulty,
Tatyana Shemulinkina (Samara region) - bronze medalist of the World Cup stage (2007) in Sofia in bouldering,
Daria Kan (Bashkortostan) - 3-time winner of the world championships (2013, 2014, 2016) in speed,
Vladislav Myznikov (Chelyabinsk region) - winner of the world championship (2013) in speed,
Sergey Luzhetsky (Sverdlovsk region) - silver medalist of the world championships (2010, 2012, 2014) in speed,
Arman Ter-Minasyan (Moscow) - silver medalist of the world championships (2006) in difficulty and (2009) in speed,
Evgenia Malamid (Voronezh region) - 5-time champion of Russia (2003, 2009, 20110, 2011, 2012) in difficulty,
Evgenia Lapshina (Sverdlovsk region) - 3-time winner of the stages of the European Youth Cup (2012) in difficulty and (2014) in speed,
Vadim Timonov (St. Petersburg) – bronze medalist of the Russian Cup (2015) in bouldering.
The reserve team of CSKA included:
Maria Musienko (Krasnoyarsk Territory) - bronze medalist of the European Championship (2016) in the all-around,
Evgeny Zazulin (Kaliningrad region) - 3-time winner of the stages of the European Youth Cup (2006, 2008) in difficulty,
Sergey Skorodumov (St. Petersburg) - silver medalist of the Russian Championship (2016) in bouldering.
Russian climbers made their debut at the Winter Military World Games in March 2013 in Annecy, France. Four years ago, our athletes won six medals. Evgenia Malamid won the difficulty, the third was Yana Churikova (Chereshneva). In bouldering, Malamid finished in second place, and in speed, the entire women's podium turned out to be Russian: Churikova won, Alina Gaydamakina was second, and Malamid was third.
Eight sets of awards will be played in Sochi: two each in bouldering, difficulty and two varieties of speed (on the standard and in the classic).
COMPETITION PROGRAM
February 24 (Friday)
11:00 - 12:30. Difficulty. Qualification. Women.
13:30 - 16:30. Difficulty. Qualification. Men.
February 25 (Saturday)
11:00 - 14:00. Difficulty. Semifinal. Men, women.
20:30. Difficulty (duel). The final. Men.
21:20. Difficulty (duel). The final. Women.
February 26 (Sunday)
10:00 - 14:00. Bouldering. Qualification. Men, women.
20:30 - 22:30. Bouldering. The final. Men, women.
22:30. Award ceremony.
February 27 (Monday)
10:30 - 12:00. Speed. Classic format. Qualification. Men, women.
12:30 - 13:30. Speed. Classic format. Final round. Men, women.
15:30 - 16:30. Speed. record format. Qualification. Men, women.
16:30 - 17:30. Speed. record format. Final round. Men, women.
20:00. Award ceremony.
climbing wall
Specially for the III Winter Military World Games, a unique complex of climbing walls was assembled, which has the highest level of difficulty of tracks among similar Russian structures. The height of the structure is 15 meters, width - 12 meters, hung over the base - 7 meters, the deviation is about 30 degrees.
It is this climbing wall that has already left for Sochi on 15 trucks to be installed at the Bolshoi Sports Palace, where rock climbing competitions will be held as part of the III Winter Military World Games from February 24 to 27.
Tickets for fans and spectators are FREE (after registration).
REGISTER (https://prclimbing.timepad.ru/event/447347/)!
Official website of the III Winter Military World Games - http://cismsochi2017.ru/
Organizers: Central Sports Club of the Army (CSKA), Ministry of Defense of the Russian Federation.
FSR partners: Red Fox, DoorHan, Skalodrom.Ru. The partners in the preparation of the national team are the BigWall climbing center, the Limestone climbing wall.
Alexey Sergunin, press service of the FSR
BIATHLON
The name of the sports discipline comes from two Latin words “twice” and “struggle”, therefore biathlon was originally called the modern winter biathlon. Includes cross-country skiing and rifle shooting across multiple shooting ranges.The first race, vaguely reminiscent of biathlon, was organized by the border guards on the Swedish-Norwegian border back in 1767. In the 19th century in Norway, biathlon was formed as a sport for soldiers. The progenitor of modern biathlon, the military patrol competition, was introduced at the Olympic Games in 1924, 1928, 1936 and 1948.
Within the framework of the III Winter Military World Games, competitions will be held in the following types: sprint (7.5 km for women, 10 km for men), mixed relay (6 km for women and 7.5 km for men) and patrol race (15 km for women, 20 km for men).
patrol race- a modern type of military patrol competition (race, which is the ancestor of biathlon). It is a 20 km race for men and 15 km for women, with three firing lines. Each participating country can enter two patrols (male and female).
The team consists of four athletes - biathletes and skiers. One of the team members is the leader of the patrol, three are members of the patrol, each of whom fires from a prone position and fires one shot at the center of his installation. In case of misses - penalty loops according to the number of team misses according to IBU rules.
Sprint- a type of biathlon race for 10 km for men and 7.5 km for women with two firing lines. Biathletes start at intervals of 30 seconds. After the first round, shooting from a prone position is performed, after the second - standing. Biathletes themselves choose firing positions on the shooting range for shooting. For each miss, a penalty loop of 150 m is provided.
mixed relay- biathlon team competition. The team consists of four athletes (two women and two men). Each biathlete completes one stage, which is 6 km for women and 7.5 km for men, with two firing lines.
One representative from each country starts at the same time and, having run their stage, they pass the baton to the next biathlete from their team. Women go first, then men. There are two shootings at each stage: the first one is lying down, the second one is standing. The athlete has three spare cartridges for each shooting. If the biathlete uses up spare cartridges, then for each subsequent miss, a penalty loop of 150 m is provided.
Krasnoyarsk
Season 2017. Big gathering, world military games
Hi all!
And so the New Year began.
There are many plans for him, even more work. So I'll start slowly.
The first week was spent in Krasnoyarsk with festivities, slides, rocking and bouldering in Yuzhny. And my hands itch - they want to climb the rocks. And there is free time, and the session is closed - it's decided, let's go. Where? It's expensive to Thailand, dad doesn't have a visa to Europe, the result is Türkiye!
Road to the rocks. January in Turkey.
Türkiye - I was already here in 2014. Even then I liked this place, but I fell head over heels in love with this trip.
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year 2014. Photo - Dmitry Veprintsev
In 2014 we went for 10 days, took beautiful photos, and I climbed my first 8a onsight - Sarkit Soul. It's quite a long route, 7b to circuit 1, 8a to circuit 2. I approached her already tired (it was 4 or 5 days of climbing), and I climbed 7b to hitch. I’m climbing, climbing, braces are hanging on 8a, I think - okay, I’ll climb, where I fall, I fall there. I fit to the upper key, I look: well, climb heavy 3 more quickdraws, then bend and it’s still not known how much (I mentally prepared to climb 5 heavy quickdraws). I climb the key, I strain, I climb out of the bend and see .. CHAIN! At first I couldn't believe my eyes - but it was her. Hooray!!! For me it was a big surprise, because in that trip I didn’t climb more than one eight. That's how they are, onsights - full of surprises (although usually they are not always pleasant) Wow. It was great! The first day we climbed, the skin was worn out. The weather was gorgeous - the sun, the rock is warm. I regretted not taking shorts.
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Cleopatra 8a. Photo - gopro. Satisfied :)
I also climbed 7b, c, c+ just for fun, gain volume and have fun.
When hungry. Photo - gopro.
Since there was little time, and every day the next day it was raining in the forecast, we went climbing instead of a day of rest. And it turned out that we climbed for 6 days in a row :) One day Sergey Rozhkov from Perm took pictures of me on a very beautiful line colonist.
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Photo - Sergey Rozhkov.
Photo - Sergey Rozhkov.
Photo - Sergey Rozhkov.
There are a lot of rocks, I want to try everything, but it's time to go to Moscow for the training camp of CSKA before the world military games. The World Military Games are the largest military sports event, they are called the Military Olympics, and for this purpose the strongest athletes of the country were called to CSKA. The first part of the training camp in Moscow took place at the climbing wall, where the games were planned to be held.
Project/implementation
The climbing rome was installed in the Patriot-Expo building in the Moscow region, where we went almost every day. With Dasha Kan and Olympic champion Svetlana Khorkina.
I climbed classical speed and bouldering. The height of the climbing wall is about 16 Meters, so climbing 2 tracks in a row to the end was very difficult. Gradually we got used to the volume. After 2 weeks of assembly, the climbing wall was dismantled and taken to Sochi, and we went to Germany, to Munich.
Great hotel, great rooms!
There are a lot of halls in Munich: there are commercial ones, such as the network boulderwelt, there are halls of the German federation DAV (Friemann).
Salzburg. Signboards in Salzburg.
We also managed to get to the largest Outdoor exhibition - ISPO Munich. There I was lucky to meet the CEO of the company. SCARPA- Sandro Parisotto, see good friends and distributors Scarpa Russia Andrey Kazakov and Anya Piunova.
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SCARPA-girls with the director of SCARPA international Sandro Parisotto.
Heinz.
Looking into his bottomless eyes, I read - a genius. I asked him a little - what inspires him, how he is looking for something new. Inspired by nature, rocks, climbing itself. He also works a lot with the material, textures, their combination, sometimes the material itself tells you what to do with it. Heinz climbs a lot, and in the process he thinks about what can be done, how he can improve the model. So in the process of climbing, there was a "rib" on the heel of the Furia, and I think a lot of other details.
Our team. Photo by Eddie Fowke.
Photo by Eddie Fowke. For the first time in my life I jumped on a fitball. Pants full of happiness :). Photo by Eddie Fowke.
One weekend, Dima Fakiryanov and I went to visit Maxi Klaus, the head coach of the German national team for difficulty and our close friend.
Mountain air inserts :)
Time passed, I had to leave, but I didn’t want to - I liked Germany so much.
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Marienplatz Munich.
Plane, Moscow, CSKA hotel, new uniform, morning - we are flying to Sochi on a military board.
From the hotel in Moscow to the hotel in Sochi, our journey was about 10 hours, there was no food anywhere, so our muscles caught a strong catabolism.
Hooray, Sochi! Great hotel, great food! :) We arrived on the 22nd, I had a start on the 27th - classic and reference speed. It was good that I had enough time to move away from flights and rest. In the shape of:)
The organization and conduct of the entire event were at their best - professionalism was felt after the Olympiad.
Climbing wall. Photo - Leonid Zhukov.
In difficulty, the final was a duel. Video of the finals:
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Women's final. Katarina Posh vs Jessica Pils. Photo - Leonid Zhukov.
As a result, women: 1 . Jessica Pils (Austria) 2 . Katarina Posh (Austria) 3 . Mina Markovic (Slovenia) 4 . Daria Kan (Russia) For men: 1 . Jacob Schubert (Austria) 2 . Domain Skofic (Slovenia) 3 . Marcello Bombardi (Italy) 4 . Dmitry Fakiryanov (Russia) In men's bouldering, the first gold for Russian climbers was brought by Vadim Timonov. Silver went to Manyu Cornu (France), bronze went to Domen Skofich (Slovenia). Arman Ter-Minasyan and Dmitry Sharafutdinov were among the Russians in the final. Vadik presses. Photo - Leonid Zhukov.In women, Jessica Pils from Austria won the second gold in a row. The second was Olga Yakovleva, the third was Mina Markovic (Slovenia). Olga Yakovleva. Photo - Leonid Zhukov.
In the final of the Russians were also Tatyana Shemulinkina and Evgenia Lapshina. Speed. While trying out the classics, my hand hurt, and I lost my qualifications. Got with 6 time on Dasha Kan.
I knew that Dasha was well prepared, so I had thoughts to cancel this race in order to save energy for the standard.
Video of the classic finals:
Among men, Sergei Luzhetsky won the gold, the second was the worker Jacob Schubert, the third was Vadim Timonov, who in the 4th for the breakdown fell on the leader Sergei Luzhetsky and fell off at the very beginning of the race, thereby saving a lot of energy. After the end of the classics - running to put on a military uniform, rewarding, then change clothes and already testing the standard. I didn’t have time to warm up, I didn’t even have time to glue my fingers with glue.
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15 minutes before the start of the standard)))
Here, for the first time in a long time, a reference wall was certified. The hooks are super big and rough. Friction is not the best (as in Tyumen or CSKA), but good enough.
After testing with almost no rest qualification. Got 1st from 8.35. At first, a lot of people showed up for the standard, but as a result, 6 people performed for women. This worked out well, because after the classics everyone was very tired, and they didn’t want to climb a lot. 4ka. The media wanted a new record, but my goal was to win a medal, so I just had to clean up all the races. In the final with Aurelia Saarisson, I "saved" the ending and finished with a time of 8.21
Photo - Leonid Zhukov.
In the men's standard, Guillaume Moreau from France won one!!! one hundredth from the Italian Leonardo Gontero. Bronze medal for Sergei Luzhetsky. Fascinating closing ceremony... the plane to Moscow, I take the Chinese visa and go home (though not for long)! In the next part: the stages of the World Cup in China, preparation for them and a lot of interesting things! Thank you very much for your attention!!!
Special thanks to:
- Central Army Sports Club - Beal for equipment and safety while climbing -Sportmedicalgroup and ARES tape for health and the best One Trak kinesio tapes for motivation and energy of AZTEC Winter Sports Academy