And important element equipment is skiing. And the question of choice is especially acute for those who are just going to master the technique of skiing.

Properly choose skiing for beginners will help the advice of workers in this area. Depending on the characteristics and basic parameters of alpine skis, they are selected according to the skill level of the skier.

It is worth noting that alpine skis differ from each other in the shape of the nose, heels, the narrowness of the middle part and the softness of the products. These quality characteristics give alpine skiing stability with a smooth ride and make them convenient for learning and developing techniques.

On a note:
Types of skiing
Alpine skiing classification - the dependence of ski types on the parameters and characteristics of ski equipment. From the article you will find out what kind of alpine skiing you ride and how they differ from other varieties.

Important characteristics of alpine skiing

However, it is important to focus not only on the model of the product, but also on a number of its technical characteristics:

• Lenght and width
  According to the structural structure, alpine skis differ in length and width.

  · long skis	They have the ability to develop high speed when skiing on a plane; Give greater stability to the position of the body; They drop speed well due to the increased length of the ski edge when descending from the mountains.
  · shorter skis	Lighter in mass, nimble on hillocks and more maneuverable on icing; Increase the ability to make more turns on the slopes of small or too narrow tracks; They exert specific pressure on the edge, deepening into the snow surface.
  · wide skis	Develop a stable speed on flat slopes of the tracks; They overcome deep snow and virgin lands well, which is a huge advantage when skiing through the forest on unequipped tracks.

Useful article:
Selection of skis by height
How to choose the right skis for your height? An article about how important a well-chosen ski length is and why. We have given important recommendations that you should follow when choosing ski equipment.

The main problem faced by those who wish to purchase their own ski kit is the ability to combine the good characteristics of mountain skis with their level of skiing and versatility for ski slopes of any complexity.

• Rigidity
  The stiffness of mountain skis is understood as its ability to deflect under the influence of the body weight of the skier. Rigidity is primarily responsible for handling, i.e. how difficult / easy it will be for the skier to cope with his skis when skiing on the slopes of the mountain. Hard directional skis with high values ​​of this characteristic are more for professional skiers who have impulsiveness and powerful alpine skiing with skillful turns from turn to turn.

• Vibration damping, flexibility, torsion stability
  Based on the characteristics when choosing skis, you need to know other features such as vibration damping, flexibility and torsional stability.

  · vibration damping	Vibration damping is determined by the behavior of the ski when gaining medium or high speed. Most of the vibration absorption increases the accuracy of movement on arcuate tracks, gives additional stability when passing bumps and at the same time the edge cuts well into the ice surface, which thereby gives stability to skis when skiing at high speeds.
  · flexibility	Flexibility gives springy and elastic bending of the ski under the influence of the weight of the skier.
  · torsion stability	High-quality ski assembly, taking into account resistance to deformation, determines the torsional rigidity of the skier's stability, and is one of the main features. Advantages: Facilitates riding at low speeds (automatic tip and heel counter) and simplifies skating mistakes. Disadvantages: The low torsional stiffness of the ski keeps it on ice somewhat worse.

Recommendations and tips:
How to choose skiing?
Here - we will tell and explain in an understandable language how to choose skiing when buying. We indicate important points, which you can not do without when choosing skis for skiing on the ski slopes.

• Turning radius and sidecut
  The turning radius is the main characteristic by which the ability of certain skis to turn while passing along the slopes is determined. Larger side cuts with reduced radius for better arcing with controlled speed. Conversely, with a smaller sidecut and a larger turning radius, the skis go straighter and add speed when skiing.
  Advantages of skis with a deep sidecut and a small radius:
  1. Easily fit into a turn;
  2. Steadily keep the trajectory of movement on the ice surface and more steep slope.
  Disadvantages:
  1. On ice, when the edge slips along the ice, they lose stability;
  2. They glide a little worse on uneven terrain and mounds.
  On skis, the radius is usually indicated by the letter R and standing next to with letter digit.


• Waist Width
  Of no small importance in alpine skiing is such a characteristic as the width of the waist of alpine skis. This indicator determines the behavior of skis when passing through deep snow or ice. Therefore, a narrow waist contributes to the development of high speed when changing edges, easy fit into turns and increased handling. Wide waist helps tread through deeper snow;


• Toe and heel width
  Important for lovers of ski holidays and the role of the length of the toe of skis. The wider the tip of the ski, the more confident the skier enters the turn. Such skis give an advantage when passing tracks intended for slalom trials. Such a characteristic as the width of the heel of the ski is also important for lovers of slalom and carving. The wider the heel, the better the arc at the end of the turning maneuver;

• Operating speed range
  The operating speed range is considered satisfactory if the alpine skis make the correct course in an arc. Wide ranges of working speeds give the skis versatility.

Good riding!
We hope our article was useful to you.

Of course, the turning radius is determined not by the ski, but by the skier 🙂 Nevertheless, the ski must have its own “favorite arc”, along which it goes like on rails. The curvature of the arc changes with the edge angle. What is especially nice is that skis do not need a skier at all to cut a “favorite arc” (he can be replaced with a load). And if the desire of the skier to go along the arc coincides with the ability of the skis to cut just such an arc, then the perfect carving will probably turn out. In this note, I will consider how the ski sidecut radius and the turning radius are related for Atomic skis Redster FIS SL 165 cm (2016).

Let me remind you that such skis of the “club shop” type are being considered.

Geometric parameters are written on the "topsheet": length 165 cm, radius 12.5 m, toe width 117.5 mm, waist - 65.5 mm, heels - 101.5 mm.

A few words about mathematical transformations. First, the shape of the sidecut (work area) needs to be slightly expanded so that the width of the toe and heel matches, and the zero mark must be placed at the narrowest point of the ski. Then the form can be edged. To obtain a “trace in the snow”, you need to divide the coordinate of the side cutout obtained in this way by the cosine of the edging angle. For deflection, multiply by tangent. But in this note, the deflection calculation is not used. Next, you need to get the “X” coordinate from the assumption that the length of the edge does not change during edging (that is, the toe and heel are slightly closer). To do this, you need to calculate from the consideration of triangles the changes in the “X” projection at each measurement step (I have it after 1 cm) and correct this change in length from the middle of the ski to the edges with the sum with “accumulation”. Well, then turn the resulting curve back 🙂

If we proceed from the fact that the shape of the side cutout fits into a circle, then what shape of the trace will turn out after edging - I don’t have enough imagination trace shape. Here is the result:

It can be seen that such a transformation gives a trace that is ideally round on the scale of the graph, that is, it is quite possible to speak of a turning radius. I note that at angles greater than 80 degrees, the circle hitting the trace worsens. The value of this radius turns out to be quite strongly tied to the radius of the side cutout (equal to 12.3 m).

It can be seen that edging up to an angle of 45 degrees corresponds to a change in the turning radius from the “initial” 12.3 m to 8.7 m, and this is approximately the same from the point of view of the trajectory on short slalom turns. At an extreme angle of 60 degrees, the turning radius is 6.1 m, which is also not very similar to what happens on a slalom course.

Mattias Hargin, 2017. Photo from his blog

Near the pole, the skis visually go as if “around the skier”, which corresponds to a turning radius of less than two meters. This is the edging area from 80 to 90 degrees! But is it even possible to talk about cutting the arc at such angles?

Review of experiments on measuring edge and turning radius

Unfortunately, the answer to this question is generally not very pleasant. There is no carved arcing on the slalom track at all, and the edge angle of the skis does not depend much on what the ski with its sidecut shape “would like”. And in general, 20 years ago, skis with a completely different sidecut could also turn over strongly. I would not like to plunge into such reasoning myself. For this, the network has scientific papers. Sensors are placed on the athlete and skis, the passage along the track is recorded by several cameras, the shape of the track and the cut groove are analyzed. Articles write about different things, but one of the conclusions that concerns this note is the same: a skier is riding, not a ski, the edge angle depends on the turn that he needs to make, on the technique, on the speed, on the surface ... They rarely remember about the sidecut of the ski 🙂

I will give a figure with selective experimental data.

Above are the phases of the turn, taken from a real athlete. On the graphs, data on edge angles and the degree of drift (the angle of ski mismatch with the direction of movement). Data for three skis with different radii, the authors believe that the curves are approximately the same. He gave a drawing in order to show that the edging of skis is not at all connected with the incised arc. I will also give graphs of edging and the actual turning radius, which goes with a clear drift before the pole, and after the pole, we can say that it is insignificant. It can be seen that the turning radius is consistent with the edging (the stronger the edged - the steeper the turn), but weakly depends on the radius of the side cutout of the ski.

In general, there is nothing new in the fact that a skier rides, and not a ski 🙂 But the topic of the note is to see how the ski “wants” to ride. To do this, you need to understand at what corners of the edging it can cut the arc. There is no clear answer. So I have to rely on what I see. Based on my observations of free descents on a gentle hill and a “morning soft ice” surface, cut arcs throughout the turn are possible at edge angles up to 45 degrees. The corresponding calculated turning radius of 8.7 meters is approximately the same as observed. Of course, I can’t confirm this, I just mean it 🙂

Turning radius in the track, calculations

Now let's move on to setting the route. This season (2017) we set 9.5 meters (or slightly less than " 6 skis", ski in a straight line 1.64 m) between the gates. I’ll see what the “divorce” of the track should be so that the skis can pass it 🙂 With a track corridor width of 3 meters, the minimum radius of two conjugated arcs (see the figure on the left) is 7.5 meters, which corresponds to an edge angle of 52.5 degrees. In principle, it is believed that such a trajectory is not the fastest, it is better to “raise” it a little, so that you approach the pole a little more across the slope, and not straight down as in the figure. This will increase the radius and increase the width of the path corridor. But I won't do it here.

Mathematically corridor ( W) can vary from zero (the radius is infinity) to the distance between the gates ( L). In the corridor width range, the trajectory can be described by conjugated circles. This limit corresponds to an angle of 45 degrees between the straight line connecting the gate and the downward direction. In our case, this width is 6.7 meters, the corresponding radius is 3.4 meters, which corresponds to an edge angle of 74 degrees. The general formula for the radius of the trajectory in this range is: . Since the ski has a maximum radius of 12.3 meters, this imposes a restriction on the minimum trail opening equal to 1.84 meters (the corresponding edge angle is “equal” to zero 🙂 That is, if the route corridor is less than 1.84 meters, then a straight line must be inserted into the trajectory vertical section.And if the route corridor is more than 6.7 meters, then a straight horizontal section must be inserted into the trajectory, and the turning radius on the round parts of the trajectory must be equal to half the downward slope component of the distance between the gates.

In the range of the route corridor width from 1.84 to 6.7 meters, the calculated trajectory radii and the corresponding edge angles look like this:

Unfortunately, when setting the tracks in the last season (2017), the distance between the gates was measured strictly with skis, and the transverse “divorce” was set “by eye”. Therefore, I can’t say for sure about the width of the corridor of our tracks. I won't do it again 🙂

Vitaly Sizov sets the track. Photo — Sergey Ezhov Vitaly Sizov

I turned to Vitaly Sizov, he sets the width of the route corridor strictly, measures it with skis. He puts a stick, then the next one, then moves horizontally from this stick until he is exactly under the top stick. And considers skis. Not for every milestone, but for verification. Vitaly reported the following parameters: "If the distance between the poles is 6 skis, then the horizontal distance is 1.5 skis - open, 2 skis - normal, 2.5 skis - closed."

If we translate this into the width of the corridor in meters and into the corresponding calculated edge angle, then it turns out like this:

• "Open", width = 2.5 meters, turning radius = 9.0 m, edge angle = 43 degrees;
• “Normal”, track width = 3.3 meters, turning radius = 6.8 meters, edge angle = 56 degrees;
• “Closed”, track width = 4.1 meters, turning radius = 5.5 meters, edge angle = 63 degrees.

Alexander Mistryukov

Alexander Mistryukov said that he puts it “by eye”, on a steep slope of about 5 meters (R = 4.5 m, angle = 68.5 degrees).

In general, it turns out that in order to “cut through” the slalom track, you need to master skiing with an edge angle of about 60 degrees. It should also be taken into account that in the calculations the edge-over occurs instantaneously. In fact, of course, there is no such thing, which is probably why the shape of the arc in the track is not a circle, but a “comma”, and you need to turn over more. But also the trajectory of a slightly larger radius, since it is “wider and higher”. Therefore, most likely, in general, the calculated edge angle and the real one approximately coincide.

The edge angle of 45 degrees, which I mentioned above as typical for a carved arc in free skating, is generally “nothing”. This corresponds to a track corridor of only 2.6 meters. And it’s a shame that if you don’t turn the skis at all, then the corridor of the track is 1.84 meters. That is, only 76 cm of additional width between the poles corresponds to the transition from flat skiing to a 45-degree angle. It turns out that the ability to turn skis to an angle of 45 degrees is not much different from not being able to turn them at all 🙁

Only geometry was taken into account. The steepness of the slope, overloads, grip with the slope were not taken into account. Nevertheless, indeed, slalom skis can “pass the slalom track themselves” 🙂 You just need to be able to turn them powerfully and not “go off the rails”.

Conclusion

Slalom skis do have their own “favorite” arc, where they can cut through a typical (in the amateur sense) slalom course. But without the ability to cut arcs with edge angles from 60 degrees, you won’t get close to this favorite arc 🙂

Before looking at specific skis, you need to decide what you plan to do on the slopes.

How to choose skiing for the intended purpose

Carving or piste skis (Carving)

Dynastar carving skis. evo.com

These skis are designed for skiing on ready-made ski slopes, they allow you to easily enter sharp turns and ride with carving equipment - not on the entire sliding surface, but only on the edges (narrow metal strips along the edges of the ski, with which turns are made).

Unlike racing skis, carving skis are softer and can be ridden with imperfect technique. Therefore, they can be chosen by beginners and those who prefer prepared slopes.

What to buy

Skis for professional racing (Racing)

racing skis Salomon. evo.com

These are special carving skis for slalom (SL), giant slalom (GS), super slalom (SG) and downhill (DH). Models are very different in geometry and features, designed for athletes and cost a lot.

What to buy

Universal skis (All-mountain, All-terrain)

Universal skis Armada. evo.com

These skis are suitable for skiing on compacted slopes, and for freeride on virgin lands, and for downhill skiing. Such skis are inferior to specialized ones, but their capabilities are quite enough for comfortable amateur skiing.

What to buy

Freeride skis (Big-mountain, Backcountry)

Skis for freeride Salomon. evo.com

These are wider skis for skiing on unprepared slopes. The increased width of the skis keeps the freerider on deep fluffy virgin ground, and also allows you to jump from rocks without harm to health.

What to buy

Skis park, for freestyle (Park & ​​Pipe, Freestyle)

Moment park skis. evo.com

These are skis designed for acrobatics and ski jumping in special parks, passing mogul tracks.

Often park skis are twin-tip models with the same curved toe and heel. In such skis, a freestyler can land comfortably after a ski jump with both his back and his face.

What to buy

Having decided on the purpose of the skis, you can begin to select a specific pair. In this case, several parameters must be taken into account: the length, stiffness and radius of the side cutout.

We will not consider skis for professional racing, as they are selected in accordance with a specific sports discipline, and the pros do not need recommendations. Better focus on choosing equipment for beginners and advanced.

Alpine skiing options

Length

The length of skis depends on their purpose and the width of the waist - the narrowest point of the ski.

• Carving, freestyle. To choose the height of carving or park skis, subtract 5–10 cm from your height.
• Freeride. If you choose less wide skis (with a waist of 80 mm), subtract 5 cm from your height. If you are wider (waist from 90 to 110 mm), add 10 cm.
• Universal. If you choose skis with a waist less than 85 mm, subtract 10 cm from your height. If the waist is more than 85 mm, the appropriate length will be -5 to +5 cm to your height.

Rigidity

Rigid skis allow you to develop high speed without losing stability, including during turns. However, hard skiing requires good technique.

Carving skis have greater longitudinal and torsional stiffness than universal skis. Due to this, the centrifugal force that occurs at high speed is compensated. With a lack of rigidity, it will not be possible to make a clear turn: the skis will break into side slip.

The more weight, the more rigid skis are needed to hold it.

It will be more convenient for beginners and amateurs to ride on soft skis, for example, universal ones. They allow you to make mistakes in technique and provide a more comfortable ride. In addition, the stiffer the ski, the higher the price, so for amateur skiing it is preferable to choose soft ones.

As a rule, ski stiffness indicators are indicated on the product card or on the ski tag.

Sidecut Radius

Sidecut radius depends on ski geometry. The larger the radius, the wider the arc along which your skis will pass.

Carving skis are divided into several types depending on the style of skiing. Slalom has a short radius - 9-12 meters, which allows you to move in small arcs. Long-radius skis with indicators of 17-25 meters are designed for wide slopes and allow you to develop high speed.

There are also medium-range skis with performance from 12 to 17 meters. Due to the reduced radius, these skis listen better on turns and, unlike long-radius ones, allow you to ride on rather tight, crowded slopes.

Radius universal skis is from 15 to 18 meters. This radius is suitable for those who are just mastering the ski slopes.

Due to the increased width, freeride skis have a large sidecut radius - about 20 meters. Such models are best chosen by trained skiers.

Alpine ski designs

Now there are three main designs of alpine skis and many mixed options.

The core of such skis is usually made up of several layers of wood and synthetic materials and is reinforced with carbon or fiberglass mesh.

From the sides, the core is closed with plastic walls, on top - with a decorative strip, and from below - with a sliding surface. Due to several layers of the core, the strength of the ski increases and depreciation increases.

Unlike Sandwich, these skis do not have side and decorative trims, and the core is closed with one monolithic structure that reaches the edges.

Cap provides less weight and more torsional rigidity of the ski, which, in turn, increases its handling. In addition, production is less expensive, and therefore such skis are sold at lower prices.

Monocoque (monocoque)

This is development brand Salomon, a one-piece composite body to which the sliding surface is glued. Inside the case there is a core made of wood or light synthetic materials.

Skis made using Monocoque technology have high torsional rigidity and low weight, which ensures cornering stability and less sensitivity to track irregularities.

In addition to these three designs, there are a large number of mixed options. For example, Monocoque-Sandwich or even Cap-Sandwich, when the middle of the ski is made according to one technology, and the ends - according to another.

Alpine skiing materials

Alpine ski cores are made from lightweight wood, plain foam, or a combination of wood and synthetic materials.

Wooden cores perfectly dampen vibrations, provide good ski control and uniform elasticity along the entire length.

In cheaper skis, foam cores can be found. For example, the Cap structure is filled with light synthetic foam. Foam does not provide such stability and elasticity as wood, but it weighs less.

Foam core. backcountry.com

The next layer is the core braid made of composite materials. The stiffness of the ski depends on it to a greater extent. The braid is made of fiberglass, carbon and fibers of other materials in combination with epoxy resin. To increase the rigidity, the braid can be supplemented with metal plates made of light alloys, such as aluminum and titanium.

In the production of a sliding surface, combined materials are also used. For example, polyethylene with the addition of graphite. Graphite reduces the electrostatic charge, due to which small ice crystals and dirt stick to the sliding surface, and polyethylene ensures better retention of the ointment on the surface.

How to choose ski bindings

The choice of fasteners depends on several parameters.

1. Mounting standard. There are several binding standards that are suitable for boots with a certain type of sole:

• Alpine Mounts. Suitable for ISO 5355 soles. This standard applies to most trail skating boots.
• Frame mounts. In such mounts, the front and rear are connected by a frame. Due to this, the skier can not only ride with a fully secured foot, but also unfasten the heel to go skiing, for example climbing a mountain. Most of these bindings are compatible with ISO 9523 (Touring) soles.
• WTR (Walk to Ride). Developed by Salomon. Boot bindings with a higher WTR sole with tread for comfortable walking.
• MNC (Multi Norm Compatible). These bindings will fit any sole standard: ISO 5355, ISO 9523 and WTR.

2. Elastic fastening. This is the maximum force at which the fastening will not unfasten, but will return the boot to its place.

Bindings for carving skis have a little elasticity. It is enough to shift the boot by 1 cm, and everything will come unfastened.

Freeride bindings are more flexible, as they are under more stress when riding wide skis on unprepared slopes. To release the freeride binding, the boot must move to the side by 2.5-3 cm.

3. Ski stop width. Ski-stop (ski-stop) is a metal bracket that is needed for braking if the ski comes unfastened. Looks like two wires on the sides of the mounts.

The waist (narrowest point) of the ski should be narrower than the ski stop. Otherwise, you will not be able to put the mount on the ski.

If the ski stop bracket is too wide, it will protrude far beyond the boundaries of the ski and cling to the snow when skiing. Therefore, choose a ski mount only after you choose the skis themselves.

4. Features of fastening on a ski. Bindings are installed on skis in different ways.

• With screws. This is the most secure installation method. Cons: You can't use multiple skis with the same binding. In addition, the screws break the structure of the skis a little, so if you want to change the bindings, holes will remain from the old ones.
• On a platform with holes. Some ski models have a binding platform. In this case, it is better to buy mounts from the same manufacturer: the platform holes will match the mounts and you will not have to spend a lot of time on installation.
• On a platform without holes. If the ski has a platform without holes, any bindings will work, since you will make the holes yourself.
• On a platform with guides. For such platforms, special fasteners are needed, which are put on the guides, after which the screw is tightened. Such bindings are easily changed to the size of the boot, which can be useful if several people ski on the same ski.

How to choose sticks

1. Material. Sticks can be made of aluminum or carbon fiber and fiberglass. When choosing aluminum models, pay attention to the numbers on the stick. For example, 5086 or 6061 is an indication of an alloy. How more number, the more rigid and durable alloy.

Models made of carbon fiber and fiberglass are lighter, stronger and more expensive than aluminum, however, they do not last forever: if you damage a stick made of composite materials with a sharp edge of a ski, it will quickly break under load.

2. Shape. Sticks for normal skiing are straight. For downhill, such as giant slalom, are curved. This shape allows athletes to remove the rings of sticks behind their backs during the descent, increasing aerodynamics.

the-raceplace.com

3. The size and shape of the rings. The rings at the bottom of the stick are designed so that the stick does not go deep into the snow. Freeride models have big rings so that the stick holds well on soft, fluffy snow. The poles for piste skiing are equipped with small rings that will not interfere and cling to the boots while skiing.

Some manufacturers make sticks with interchangeable rings for different conditions skating.

4. Stick length. This is the most important indicator.

To find the perfect length, turn the stick over and grab it under the ring. If in this position a right angle forms between the forearm and shoulder, this stick is right for you. Some experts advise adding 5-7 cm to this length to take into account the immersion of the stick in the snow.

Before choosing sticks, put on ski boots: they will add a few centimeters to your height.

As for the lanyard (the strap that secures the stick on the arm), it is not advised to wear it. During a fall, ski bindings will automatically release your boots, but you are unlikely to be able to remove the lanyards from your wrists as quickly. And this is fraught with injury. Therefore, you may well choose sticks without lanyards or cut them off after purchase.

What to buy

Ski boots options

First, we will tell you what characteristics ski boots have, and then we will analyze how to choose boots depending on your style of skiing.

Rigidity

This characteristic indicates how much effort you need to make to change the angle of the boot top. The stiffer the boot, the better your muscle forces are transferred to the skis.

Soft boots dampen efforts due to the bending of the bootleg. As a result, ski control is reduced.

The stiffer boots you buy, the easier it will be to manage your skis.

However, hard boots have a drawback: while skiing, they can rub your feet, cause pain and swelling. Therefore, beginners are not advised to buy too hard boots.

sole type

ISO 5355 standard. Most ski boots (carving and sports) have soles of this standard.

ISO 5355 outsole. ebay.com

Touring (ISO 9523). The standard boot for ski touring or cross-country travel up and down. These boots have a higher rubber sole with a deep tread. Sometimes shoes are sold with interchangeable pads that allow them to be used with regular bindings.

Touring outsole. gearinstitute.com

WTR (Walk to Ride) is the standard for freeride boots that require special WTR bindings. Some models of these boots can also be used with Touring bindings.

WTR outsole. lugaresdenieve.com

Shoe width

Shoe width - the distance between the walls of the boot at its widest point. Should match the width of your foot. As a rule, this parameter is indicated on the boot, and you can measure your foot directly in the store or rental: usually there are special rulers there.

There are boots with adjustable shoe widths. They indicate the range, for example, from 100 to 150 mm.

Remember: in too wide boots you will not be able to fix your legs well, so it will be difficult for you to control the skis while skiing. Therefore, it is better to focus on the numbers and not buy too spacious shoes.

thermoforming

This is the ability of the boot to conform to the shape of your foot when exposed to heat.

Inner boot in thermoformable material. backcountry.com

Some boots can only be molded problem areas, in others the entire surface of the boot is molded.

If your boots are labeled Auto Fit, they are thermoformed while you wear them, from the warmth of your foot. A few days of riding is enough for the self-molded boots to adapt to your features.

Walk around the store for 10 minutes before buying shoes. So you will understand whether your boots are tight or not, they need thermoforming or it is worth trying on others.

Custom Fit shoes are designed for hot forming with a special dryer. Hot forming is done in the store after trying on, if it seems to you that the boot fits in size, but it presses a little in some place.

First, the boot is heated with a hair dryer for about 10-15 minutes, then you put it on, fasten the clips and stand for about 10 minutes. Then remove and leave for at least an hour until the material hardens in the desired position.

Warming

Ski boots are insulated with down, wool and various synthetic materials, such as 3M Thinsulate hydrophobic insulation.

Unlike natural materials, synthetic materials have the ability to wick moisture away from the body, so you won't be riding in sweaty socks. At the same time, they should also be made of synthetic material: it is better to leave cotton and wool for other purposes.

How to choose ski boots for their intended purpose

evo.com

These boots will suit you if you are going to ride exclusively on prepared slopes and just for fun. That is, you will not work on speed and technique, set personal records and get out of the track to ride on untouched snow.

Boots for carving come in different stiffness. For beginners, boots with a stiffness value from 60 to 100 are suitable, for progressive amateurs - from 100 to 130.

When choosing boots, do not chase softness and convenience: you will be comfortable in the store, but on the track, when the skis are poorly controlled, this advantage will not seem so significant to you.

The sole of carving skis is equipped with heels made of soft material. This allows you to conveniently climb stairs or walk on the floor, for example, if you are going to relax in a cafe.

The main characteristics of skis:
- length (size)
- width
– stiffness (average, static/dynamic)
- distribution of stiffness along the length of the ski
- torsional stiffness (torsional stiffness)
— geometry (sidecut depth, sidecut radius, sidecut law (shape))
- waist width (width of the ski under the boot)
- toe length (distance from the front binding to the toe of the ski)
- vibration characteristic (the ability of the ski to absorb vibrations)
- impact absorption.

What are these characteristics?
1. Length
More long ski:
- more stable at speed (when skiing flat)
- more moment of inertia - better stabilize the position of the body
- easier to slow down (larger edge length), especially when riding in the mountains
- go better on virgin lands (deep snow)
More short ski:
- easier to turn (more nimble)
- it is better to ride on short slopes (you will have time to make more turns)
- better on ice (more specific pressure on the edge - better cut into the ice)
- better on hillocks (more nimble)
- lighter in weight.

2. Width
Narrower ski:
- better on ice (in the limit - skate)
- better on hillocks
- more lively and agile
- lighter in weight
Wider ski:
- goes better in deep snow / virgin soil
- higher stability at speed (on a flat slope)
- higher stability (confidence)

3. Ski stiffness
Softer ski:
- starts to work correctly (flex in an arc) from lower speeds
- better absorbs uneven terrain
- Properly designed soft skis
better hold on the ice (when skiing on the edges)
- go better on virgin lands (soft snow) Harder ski:
- more impulsive - more powerful skating, powerful rollover from turn to turn
- better hold on ice (with lateral slippage of the edge)

4. Geometry
Information block and catalogs usually contain the following information:
140 - ski size in cm
110/73/99 - measurements of skis in mm: the width of the toe, waist and heel, respectively
11,7 - sidecut radius in m.
The last two values, that is, measurements and the radius of the sidecut, determine the so-called "geometry" of the ski. The sidecut radius is measured using a special technique, and it can be used to judge the ability of skis to carve turn.

The larger side cut(smaller sidecut radius), the more the ski tends to go in an arc and, therefore, allows better control of the speed when carving skiing.

The smaller the side cut(larger turning radius), the more the ski tends to go straight, therefore, allows faster skiing.

Skis with large (deep) sidecut (small sidecut radius):
- Easier to turn
- better hold on ice and on a steep slope (when skiing on the edges)
- they hold worse on ice (with side slipping of the edge)
- go worse on bumps and bumps.
The smaller the size of the ski, with the same measurements, the more steeply the ski is able to turn when carving.

5. Waist Width(width of the ski under the boot)
The narrower the waist, the higher the speed of edge-over (it is easier to enter the turn) and handling, the wider - the better ski behaves in deep snow.

6. Toe length(distance from the front binding to the toe of the ski):
Large toe length - better behavior in deep snow, the ski floats better in virgin snow. Shorter toe length means easier and faster turn entry.

Types of modern skis:
- Reisling - sports - for participation in competitions, for special slalom, giant slalom, mogul, etc.
- Freeride - skis for skiing outside prepared slopes mainly in virgin lands (deep fluffy snow), for example, Salomon AK Rocket.
- Olmountain - universal all-relief (the most versatile, for any slopes and snow conditions, for example, Salomon X-Scream.
- Frikarv - for expert skiing mainly on prepared slopes, although in this group one can distinguish the so-called universal carving skis, which are less sensitive to uneven terrain - for example, Salomon Crossmax.
- Sportcarv - for amateur skiing at low speeds, mainly on prepared slopes.
- New school freestyle - trick riding and jumping both in the snow park and on ordinary slopes with varying degrees of training, for example, Salomon Teneighty.
- Supercarv, or Fan-carve, or radical carving - "carving" riding, as a rule, without sticks, with a strong blockage of the body on the slope. Due to the extremely deep sidecut, strong centrifugal force is generated when riding, for example, the Salomon Axecleaver of the Streetracer series.
- Skiboards, or snowblades - special carving skis, usually less than 1 m long. They are produced with lightweight fastening without the possibility of automatic operation when falling, which is allowed by international safety standards, provided that the skis are shorter than 1 meter

There are several standard features in snowboard geometry that many riders know, or guess what they mean. First of all, this is: the length and width of the snowboard, everyone is familiar with these concepts, but what does it mean: effective edge length, sidecut radius, board bend? In order to deal with this, this article exists. Let's start from the very beginning.

Snowboard length.

Everything seems simple - this is the distance from the toe of the snowboard to the heel, but ... depending on the styles of skiing, weight, level of the snowboarder, the selection of the board is done a little differently (we will tell you more about the selection of the board in the next section, for now, only technical data). Short boards are easier to control when jumping and turning (important for freestyle), while long boards are good for freeride and backcountry. Usually the manufacturer indicates in those. board passport for what length of the projectile this or that weight of the rider is designed.

Snowboard width.

Usually, the manufacturer refers to the width of the waist in the description (English Wais - the narrowest point of the board). The wider the snowboard, the better it will hold the “powder” and not burrow, the narrower, the more speed will develop on a prepared track. Also, some companies have special "extended models" for big-footed ones, the letter "W" is simply added to the size indication, which means Wide.

But on a par with this, there are: the width of the heel (Tail) and the width of the toe (Nose), sometimes their indicators may differ from each other, most often this happens on freeride boards, where the toe is wider for better gliding on virgin soil. Freestyle boards are more symmetrical.

Effective edge length.

The next important characteristic is the length of the edge, which touches the slope when riding and making turns, usually 20-35 centimeters shorter (depending on size) than the snowboard itself. It is extremely rarely indicated by manufacturers on the board itself, but rummaging through the Internet can be found at the office. sites. The greater the effective length of the edge, the more stability and control the board has. And the smaller, the sharper and shorter you can make turns (arcs), such boards are better suited for "powder".

Sidecut Radius, or bend (Sidecut Radius)

Another important characteristic of a snowboard is the radius of an imaginary circle, part of which just passes through the edge of the snowboard (everyone remembered geometry lessons at school))). Boards with a small cut-out radius are more maneuverable, i.e. allow you to make sharper carved turns, ideal for freestyle. Boards with a large radius allow you to make wide smooth turns, are more stable at high speeds, and are more suitable for freeriding.

Previously, boards had one side cutout, i.e. the same radius along the entire length, but now manufacturers make boards with several radii, for example:

Progressive two-radius cutout (two equal radii at heel and toe);

Progressive multi-radius cutout (two equal radii on the toe and heel, the other in the middle).

This is due to the fact that when passing the track or performing this or that trick, the rider constantly transfers weight along the board, to the middle, to the nose or to the heel. Therefore, in right moment the desired bend begins to work, which allows you to more clearly enter the turn or more accurately land the board on a trick.

Now a few words about the shape of the board. Didn't know that boards come in different shapes?))

Directional is when your board has a longer nose than the heel, and is generally softer. It is good to roll on such "powder", they will not dig into the snow and provide a reliable "surfacing". Also more stable at high speeds.

Directional Twin - absolutely symmetrical board, but the tail is stiffer than the nose. Suitable for those who like to ride in their own and "not their" stance, especially for lovers of "half-pipe". In general, a universal board, due to the shift of the mounts forward or backward, you can ride it on the "powder" and on the prepared track.

Twin-Tip - absolutely symmetrical board. Toe and heel of the same stiffness, shape, width. Ideal for the park and halfpipe, because these are the types of riding where the rider most often rides in both stances. This shape of the board appeared much later, in the early 90s, in the era of the development of parks, tricks on the rails and other technical elements freestyle.

Well ... and we mastered this section)) and now we go directly to the selection of a snowboard.