Selection of ski boots according to the size of the foot. How to choose ski boots? Ski boots: how to choose the right ones for beginners. How to choose the stiffness of ski boots


A lot of questions need to be resolved and understood before buying shoes for skiing everyone, especially newbies.

To comfortably ski and progress quickly, you need to choose the right mountain ski boots. Properly selected shoes will help you quickly master correct technique skiing and allow better control of the skis.

Choosing the size of ski boots

This is one of the key parameters when choosing.

The size is indicated in centimeters (CM), which often causes bewilderment and stupor. For an approximate translation into the usual sizes, you can use.

To narrow the search area, you need to measure the length and width of the foot in millimeters before going to the store. Or in the store ask for a special measuring device for the feet. This will allow you to immediately go to the fitting of the most suitable models.

How to put on ski boots correctly?

So, you came to the store or ordered delivery. But you also need to know how to properly try on shoes.

How to put on and take off your ski boot

  1. Check if you have taken all the paper out of the shoe. It often happens that the last lump is left in the shoe, and for some reason it turns out to be small.
  2. Unfasten all clips. It is worth remembering that the clips tend to cling and fasten.
  3. With one hand, grasp the tongue and pull it in inside, and with the other hand, pull the opposite wall of the boot to the outside of the leg, opening the boot. For example, for the right boot, it will look like this: with the left hand we pull the tongue to the left, with the right hand we pull the right wall of the boot to the right.
  4. Insert the foot into the open boot and check that the tongue goes snugly along the leg and does not wrinkle.
  5. Fasten the boot, starting at the bottom clip and going up. First, you should easily fasten all the clips, and only then tighten them one by one.
  6. Stand up and “push through” the boot several times with all your weight. To do this, you need to lean forward, the lower leg should press hard on the tongue of the boot, while the heel should not come off the floor.
  7. Tighten the boot after it has completely sat down on the leg, but do not overtighten the leg, it should not become numb.

When trying on, it is necessary to build on the fact that the boot should sit as tightly as possible on the leg and not cause pain. This is not a normal shoe, don't expect the comfort of running shoes.

Feelings in the legs buttoned up boot right size :

  • AT vertical position legs thumb must touch the toe of the boot.
  • In the “loaded” position (tilt forward, press the shin on the tongue of the boot) - the thumb does not touch or touches the front wall very slightly.
  • The foot should not dangle left and right.

If the thumb always rests or even bends - the boot is too small for you, try the next size. And if in the vertical position of the lower leg the finger does not reach the sock, the boot is big.

How many pairs of ski boots to measure?

Here the myth is that you need to measure 10-20 pairs of shoes, and you need to walk in each pair for a couple of hours in order to understand exactly that they suit you.

Firstly, after the 2-3rd pair, you will no longer feel the difference due to the fact that the leg gets tired.

Secondly, boots are not designed for walking and there is no need to walk in them for hours.

If the shoe is for you does not cause pain and tightly wraps around the entire leg - you can stop and purchase.

Shoe width

In addition to size, ski boots differ in the width and shape of the last. Therefore, do not despair if the first boot put on puts pressure on the bone on the side of the leg or the foot dangles freely in the boot with the bottom clips fully fastened.

In addition to the comfort of the foot, the last affects the control of the ski, so sports boots are always narrow (even at the expense of comfort).

Amateur boots usually have a last of 100-110 mm, while sports shoes can have a last of less than 90 mm.

When trying on, pay attention to the fact that the foot cannot dangle left and right inside the boot. For the amateur level, this will be enough.

Choosing the stiffness of ski boots

The second most important parameter when choosing shoes after size is stiffness. Designated from 0 to 140, in 99% of cases it is present in the name of the boot model (Salomon X Pro 90, Rossignol Alltrack 80).

Rigidity mainly affects the degree of power transfer from the skier to the ski. The stiffer the boot, the “sharper” it is possible to feel and control the ski, but the feeling of comfort of the boot is less.

However, lately, all manufacturers have been very closely involved in the comfort of hard boots. Therefore, there is no strong difference in comfort between boots of the same line of low and high stiffness.

Choosing the stiffness of ski boots should be based on:

  • Weight and height of the skier.
  • Skating skills and desire to progress.

Influence of the height and weight of the skier on the choice of stiffness

By your weight, you can determine the “initial” stiffness, that is, the one from which you need to start choosing the first boots.

Correction for height and weight is basically what you need to do when buying your first boots. On all the following pairs, you will already understand what you want from the boot. Therefore, this item is most important for beginners.

For the average person, average height and not obese recommended stiffness = your weight plus 0-10 points.

For example, a girl of 150 cm, 50 kg is suitable for a stiffness of 50-60. And for a man 180 cm and 80 kg boots with an index of 80-90.

With an increase in height, the length of the lever for applying force to the boot changes, so the correction for height should be done as follows:

If you above average height, then it's worth add 10 points to the stiffness index you got from your weight.

If a belowsubtract 10 points.

The influence of the level of riding on the choice of stiffness

Conventionally, the stiffness of boots can be distributed according to the level of skiing as follows.

Table of correspondence between the stiffness of ski boots and the level of skiing

There is a myth that beginners need "soft" boots, that it is easier to start skiing this way. And "hard" boots are intended only for professionals.

This is not true. You need to understand your physical training and a desire to progress.

On the this moment all amateur models of boots are quite comfortable, regardless of stiffness. And manufacturers advise to buy shoes in a tougher way.

For example, you are a beginner, and according to the table, shoes with a hardness of 60 to 90 are suitable for you. Here it is worth making an allowance for physical fitness and the desire to progress.

You are physically strong, even athletic - take boots 10-20 points of stiffness higher. This will allow you to progress faster and more, because there will always be enough rigidity.

If your goal on the slope is communication, gatherings in a cafe with a group of friends, a sports achivments far from number one then take the most comfortable, because it is unlikely that the potential of the boot will be fully revealed.

The choice of ski boots according to the style of skiing

In general, all ski boots are similar in shape at first glance. But riding styles have their own requirements for boots. Therefore, manufacturers make lines of boots that best suit a particular style of riding. You can identify them in the manufacturer's catalog or by the following features.

Sports- hard and narrow boots with a large inclination of the top forward, one-piece plastic thick sole. 4 clips and a wide belt. Designed for maximum transfer of effort at the expense of comfort.

Ordinary- medium forward lean, medium stiffness, comfortable boot width, sometimes rubberized sole with a small tread.

Universal (all mountain)- have features that make long walks in boots easier, such as walking / skiing switch, rubberized outsole with WTR tread, stiffening ribs to make the boot lighter.

Freeride and backcountry- often only 3 clips, improved boot insulation, walking / skiing mode, outsole with tread, holes and grooves for ski bindings.

Park boots - 2-3 clips, medium hardness and shock-absorbing inserts.

ski boot molding

When choosing a boot, remember that after purchase it is desirable to mold them. Those. precisely adjusted to a specific foot using special technology.

After all, it is impossible to foresee in advance how littered the foot is, the size of the protrusion of the knuckles, the exact shape of the foot, etc. In addition, these parameters of the left and right legs may differ.

Different shoes have different molding technology.

Thermoforming outer boot

To begin with, it is worth determining whether the shoe is moldable or unformable.

At the moment, almost all boots support molding, with the exception of very cheap models. The only difference is the molding technology.

Exactly thermoformed shoes include models made of special plastic:

  • Atomic Memory Fit
  • Salomon Custom Shell
  • Fischer Vacuum

Also, boots from other manufacturers have the possibility of thermoforming.

Conventional thermoforming

Consists of 3 stages:

  1. Heating the outer plastic boot in a special oven,
  2. Putting on a heated boot on the foot.
  3. Cool down in the correct position of the leg.

As a result, the boot expands in places where there is excessive pressure on the foot from the inside of the boot.

Fischer Vacuum

Almost repeats conventional thermoforming. The only difference is the cooling process. The boot worn on the foot is placed in a chamber where the external air pressure on the boot is increased.

Thermoforming Fischer Vacuum

As a result, the boot expands in places where the pressure of the foot from the inside and narrows in places where the pressure of the foot from the inside is not enough.

Fischer claims this is the best technology available.

Inner shoe molding

Internals are also moldable and unshaped.

The fit of the liner is to use thermoformable foam or to fill the liner with foam personally after purchase.

Standard liners are heat molded at the same time as the outer boot, but the degree of fit depends on the number of thermoformed layers (pictured above).

Atomic Redster Foam Liner

The Atomic Redster Foam Liner is molded according to a completely different technology: we put on the liner and boot, fasten it, fill the liner with special foam. After drying, we get a perfectly fitting inner boot.

ski boot construction

In general, different ski boots are similar to each other and inherit the basic details and principles when they are created.

Clasps

They work on the same principle on all boots: clips (sometimes called "buckles") cling to the comb and tighten. They differ only in shape and adjustment possibilities.

Clips are made of various materials: plastic, aluminum, different alloys. All of them are reliable enough for the corresponding purpose of the boot.

It is worth paying attention to:

  • The wide handle will be comfortable with gloves.
  • The ability to adjust the position of the comb without and with the tool will allow you to most accurately fit the boot to your foot. These are additional holes for the comb bolt.
  • Micro-adjustment of the upper clips will allow you to more accurately adjust the degree of tightening. It looks like the ability to unscrew the clip.
  • Micro-adjustment in the lower leg will be very useful, but it does not happen on all models.
  • Protection against opening is needed only on sports models so that the boot does not open when touching the poles.

Separately, it is worth mentioning the technology of fasteners on top HEAD models.

  • Double Power - An additional lever on the clip makes it easier to tighten the boot.
  • Spine Tech and Spine Flex - better distribute the load on the comb.

Belt

Strap with Velcro or metal buckle at the very top of the outer boot. Designed to maximize the transfer of force to the boot.


Varies in width. A wide belt better fixes the shin in the boot and allows better transfer of force.

  • Freeride and park boots with 2-3 clips, as well as sports boots have a wide strap
  • Regular boots have a medium-width strap.
  • Children have the narrowest strap or they are not equipped at all.

Belt width ranges from 20 to 70 mm.

ski boot sole

There are 3 sole standards:

DIN (ISO 5355)- the standard of ordinary boots. Sports shoes are also made on it. Plastic straight outsole. On sports models, it is one-piece and increased in height, which must be ground down for a specific athlete.

Touring (ISO 9523)- the standard for ski touring boots. The sole is higher, there are holes for TLT mounts (holes in the toe on the sides and a special groove at the back), a deep rubber tread, roundings in the toe and heel for “rolling” when walking.

WTR (Walk-to-Ride)- a kind of intermediate option between DIN and Touring. Used on All-Mountain boots. A rubberized tread is characteristic, but the height is less than that of touring ones.

Don't forget to check if the boots fit your ski bindings.

Walk/Ride Switch

Allows you to get additional boot travel when walking. All-mountain, freeride and backcountry boots are equipped with this switch.

The technology is very convenient for long-term hiking in boots. Walking in such boots is much more comfortable than without such technology.

When skiing on a groomed slope with lifts absolutely not needed.

Insulation for ski boots

How quickly feet get cold in boots is influenced by 3 factors:

  1. The warmth of the sock.
  2. The thickness and insulation of the inner boot.
  3. Whether the boot will be pulled or not.

Often the feet can freeze from the fact that the shoes are overstretched and the blood flow is disturbed. Or you stand upright for a long time when the calf is crushed and the blood flow is also disturbed.

Ordinary cotton or wool socks are not recommended because they do not properly wick moisture away from the foot.

Ski socks always indicate how warm they are. Accordingly, it is worth wearing a sock suitable for a specific temperature.

The inner boot is insulated mainly due to the thickness of the foam from which it is made. It is worth remembering that the thickness of the foam may vary in different areas of the boot. In addition, sports boots always have a thinner liner than regular boots for better power transmission.

On some models you can find electric heating. Don't forget to charge these boots.

Pay attention to:

  • Insulated zones - only fingers or lower leg can be insulated.
  • Velvet layer for added warmth
  • Is there a separate layer of insulation (for example, 3M Thinsulate).
  • Presence of heating.

Which brand to choose?

Currently, you should not pay much attention to the manufacturer when choosing shoes. That is why the paragraph is at the end of the article.

Each manufacturer has different lines of boots that have different lasts and different “buns”. Start from what exactly you want to get from the boot.

In addition, boots and skis from different manufacturers are almost always compatible (remember the soles).

ski boots price

The price of ski boots directly depends on the number of options and technologies used in the boot, as well as the stiffness of the boot.

The stiffer and more fancy the boot, the more expensive. And vice versa.

In this article, I do not consider cheap or expensive worth buying, because this is a personal matter.

Outcome

The sequence for choosing a boot comes down to the following 4 points:

  1. Pick the right size and fit.
  2. Choose the stiffness of the boot.
  3. Decide on the features and options you need.
  4. Make the mold as you wish.
  • Discount shop with low prices and good choice– dfsport.ru.
  • A huge network of ski shops - sportmaster.ru, alpindustria.ru.

And I'm very interested, did the article help you in choosing? Do I need to cover something else on this topic or did I make mistakes? Write in the comments!

You can read about how to correctly choose a ski suit in one of my previous ones. Today we will talk about ski boots, and about such an important parameter in choosing these shoes as stiffness.

Each skier (whether a beginner or a professional) should have his own boot model that suits him best. Shoes borrowed from friends or from a rental can cause leg deformities, calluses and terrible bumps. Reasons: incorrectly selected stiffness and size.

Rigidity of ski boots

The flex index is the force in Newtons that bends the shaft by one degree. The stiffer the boot, the better it transfers the force of the foot to the ski and better controls it. As a general rule, the stiffer the boots, the more expensive they are.

The stiffness of ski boots is measured from 15 to 160 units. This parameter can usually be found on the boot itself, on a sticker or in the product passport.

A common mistake that beginners usually make is to purchase shoes in the wrong category for their riding experience.

Beginner skiers you should choose boots that are softer, with a stiffness of 15 to 60 units. If your foot is less than 39 sizes, only a stiffness of 15 to 30 will suit you. Boots for beginners perfectly cushion, sit comfortably on the foot and forgive mistakes, that's just easy movements or turns body, such boots may not be noticed. Modern models for beginners are very often equipped with "walking - skiing" modes, so that you can quickly get used to the boots.

Experts boots with a stiffness of 60 to 100 units are suitable. These boots have a large number of adjustments, and are made of a material that is stiffer. These boots must be chosen based on the place where you are going to ride, taking into account your weight. These boots come in different colors: for off-piste skiing and skiing on prepared tracks.

Sports boots are used only by professional skiers. The stiffness of such boots is from 100 units to 160. The number of adjustments on such models is the maximum.

Varieties of ski boots

Men's boots have a narrow and elongated shaft, this is due to the physiological characteristics of the structure of the lower leg in men, as well as the fact that calf muscle located higher than in women. Men's shoes in the heel are slightly wider than women's.

Women's boots boast a hidden heel that gives skiers the ability to press the toe of the foot into the ski during the turn and more easily regulate the movement.

Unisex boots, this, as they say: "Neither ours nor yours." These shoes are made for both men and women, and do not really suit anyone, because. does not take into account the structural features of the legs. Do not rush to buy such shoes on sale, you will make it worse for yourself.

Children's Shoes softer than adults, and their soles are narrower and lower. These boots are much cheaper.

Freeride boots Ideal for riding on fresh snow and wild slopes. These boots are strong enough, easily tolerate temperature changes, equipped with metal fasteners "inside out".

Boots for carving very elastic, soft. Ideal for skiing on ready-made tracks, they perfectly absorb and obey the owner.

Freestyle boots designed for ski jumping, performing complex tricks. These ski boots are equipped with a second shock-absorbing sole.

Buckles on ski boots

When choosing ski boots, be sure to pay attention to the clips (fasteners) that this or that model is equipped with. Plastic clips can easily crack in the cold or when strong blow, so it is better to give preference to boots with metal clips. You should buy boots with four clips and a strap, only in this case the boots are well fixed on the leg. This is necessary for your own safety. There is also such a good thing as micro-adjustment clips.

Another important feature is the presence of canting, which regulates the internal slope of the boot. Canting is especially necessary for skiers with X-shaped or O-shaped legs.

How to choose the right size ski boots?

The main rule: take boots clearly in size, you can not take ski boots one size larger. Your size is the length and width of your foot. For exact definition these parameters, use a special meter, which can often be found in specialized stores. Moms: never take shoes for a child to grow!

How to put on ski boots correctly?

Try on ski boots for a long time - at least 15 minutes. Put on your boots by fastening the clips and tightening the straps around the shaft (the strap should not be tightened all the way - this typical mistake). In this position, you impair the blood supply to your legs, and they quickly freeze on the slopes. In these 15 minutes, walk around in boots, squat in them, fasten them to your skis. Do not take shoes if you feel discomfort or pressure. Different manufacturers make boots using the same lasts, and if you don't like a pair from one brand, go straight to another rather than try on five pairs from the same manufacturer.

Thermoformable zones

Good boots are almost always equipped with a thermoformable felt boot. During skiing, the fabric of the inner soft felt boots slightly heats up and swells the foot, making the boot fit as comfortable as possible. You should not mold the boots with a special hairdryer, be patient until the slope.

Heated ski boots

The boot warmer function is a very useful thing, especially for active skiers. The legs are the coldest part of a skier's body, and also the most difficult to warm up. These shoes are made from special fabrics. The heating function can be controlled by a special remote control.

In this lesson, we pay special attention to the choice of shoes.

Why? Remember, for sure, at least once in your life your favorite shoes were rubbed. Now think about the dangers of improperly selected ski boots for active and intensive skiing for many hours? Not only spoiled mood, but also calluses, additional falls or quickly freezing feet.

We avoid this and choose comfortable shoes that will give you a lot of positive and the most positive emotions!

Ski boots exist for both men, women and children

Each shoe is designed for a person, with a certain weight, size and physiological characteristics, so you should not try to save money and buy children's shoes instead of women's. They are NOT SAFE for adults.

You can determine which shoes are for whom by using appearance, with the help of a sales assistant or get information from the "price tag" or "passport" attached to each pair of boots from the manufacturer.

Each “group” has its own characteristics of boots, based on physiological differences:

Shaft on men's shoes elongated and narrow Bottom part shins in men are longer than in women, and the calf muscle is located higher. In the "ankle" area and in the heel, men's shoes are wider than women's.

Women's boot has a “hidden heel”, which allows skiers to more easily adjust turns - press the toe of the foot on the ski during the turn.

Unisex boots designed for both women and men, but in fact they are suitable for units, so in the end they do not take into account the structure of the legs of either one or the other. Therefore, such boots can often be found in the "Sale" section.

Boots up to 22-23 cm are considered children's! Their soles are narrower and lower than those of adults. They are made of softer materials, and cost an order of magnitude cheaper than adults.

Choose boots for your future riding discipline

Although for different ski disciplines intended different types shoes, their choice does not have much influence in the learning process. You will only feel the difference when you ride confidently.

Therefore, or try to immediately understand which of the directions is closer to you. Or decide to go empirically and buy versatile boots first.

If you have not decided on your future riding style, choose boots for beginners:
- They are softer, more easily and intuitively adjustable. Often, these boots are equipped with a “walking-skating” (“Ski/Walk”) mode, which is designed to get used to the boots more quickly.
- At the same time, they are in a lower price category, and you can save a lot on the first stage.

If you want to ride on unprepared slopes and fresh snow, then choose freeride boots:

Freeride boots are very durable and will withstand long and intense skiing, frequent changes in temperature and much more. The fasteners on them are metal, the bottom one is made “inside out”, so fresh snow cannot get inside the clip and open it during the ride.

If you want to sports skating with sharp and precise turns on prepared tracks, then buy carving boots:

- They are quite soft, elastic and well cushioned. The boots convey well all the commands and efforts of the athlete to skiing and at the same time help him maintain balance.

If you are going to jump from trampolines and slide on railings doing tricks, then take freestyle boots:

- They have a second shock-absorbing sole so as not to kick your feet during frequent jumps. It is best to purchase boots with metal clasps (clips), since in very cold weather the plastic may crack upon impact.

Choose shoes according to stiffness

Rigidity will transmit your command through the boot to the ski when you want to edge, stand on the edge of the ski, make a big or small turn.

Rigidity is measured by a value from 15 to 160. The value is usually applied directly to the boot, on a sticker on the boot, or listed in the "passport" attached to each pair of boots from the manufacturer.

Soft boots suitable for beginner

For beginners, stiffness from 15 to 60 is considered optimal.

For a foot up to 23 cm, only stiffness from 15 to 30 is suitable.

Soft boots are able to forgive mistakes, i.e. they will successfully respond to the athlete's confident commands, but may not notice slight movements. Plus, they provide excellent cushioning. They are easier to move on the slope.

Rigid boots suitable for experienced skiers

Rigid boots respond perfectly to all skier commands, including erroneous ones. Because of their rigidity, they require more effort and skill to handle.

We select your size

The right size is your comfort while skiing, and how comfortable it will be for you to move and control your skis.

In fact, the size is the length of the foot and the width of the block (foot).

The size of the foot can be selected using the “poke” method, or you can use a special meter, which is often found in stores (contact a consultant).

With the help of the meter you will understand both the length and width of your foot. After that, you can choose shoes, immediately focusing on the desired size.

Trying on shoes

Try on your favorite boots. Be sure to fasten the clips (clasps), tighten the strap on the shaft. Please note that you should not tighten the strap to the end, because after wearing it for a long time on a slope, the blood will stop flowing down and the leg will freeze.

If you are not sure that the boots are 100% suitable for you, then walk around in them for about 15 minutes, try to tighten the strap more or less, “bounce” your foot in the air, fasten them to your skis and try to sit down and stand several times. After this time, you will definitely feel the “true” comfort of the boots.

Parents!

In no case do not take shoes for children "for growth"! It is very dangerous!

To determine the size, fasten the boots to the skis, put them on the child and ask them to sit in front of you several times. If the little skier manages to stay upright, then the boots fit.

You can order boots online.

But only if you are sure about this particular pair. For example, if you have already measured them in the store. Otherwise, it is likely to miscalculate, either with the size or with the rise of the boot.

To help the size table (length) of the boot:

How much should ski boots cost?

In Russia, the average cost of ski boots varies from 3,000 to 30,000 rubles.

At present, in Russian sports shops manufacturers are popular: Atomic, Salamon, Fischer, Rossignol, Head, Technica, Roxy and others.

Brand ratings vary depending on the country of manufacture, country of purchase and cost of boots, so we do not advise you to pay attention only to specific brands. These concepts are too unsteady, and change every few years or even more often. Much more important are the materials from which the shoes are made.

Decide how much money you are willing to spend on a purchase and start researching boots in this price range.

The main points that affect the cost:

1) Notice the fasteners. Metal clasps are more durable and wearable than plastic clasps, which break quickly and are more susceptible to damage from weather changes, impacts, jolts, and other factors.

2) Ski/Walk - additional ski boot mode, when you can switch them to "skating" or "walking", making skiing more convenient.

3) Inner boot can be made from different fabrics, have an additional insole and heating functions (including from a special remote control).

4) thermoformed zones. The essence of thermoforming is that when you accelerate, the fabric of the inner soft boot heats up and envelops the foot, adapting to it and giving maximum comfort, which is especially important for those who want to ride for hours.

5) Rigidity - an important parameter, from the value of which the cost can change dramatically. The softer the boots, the cheaper they are, the stiffer, the more expensive.

Should you take your shoes off?

It is worth it if they are no more than 1-2 years old, there are no visible flaws, damage.

And remember that for a long time the shoes look like in the store, but every year they lose some of the elasticity and become more fragile. You may not notice this, but with severe wear and tear, this factor can play a role. Therefore, take a closer look at a used accessory with triple attention.

Only after choosing the boots we buy ski poles

Ski poles are your mainstay while skiing or skiing, and a must for all sorts of ski tricks.

Since, in fact, sticks are more likely consumable skier, we advise a beginner to choose a stick according to two parameters - length and cost.

How to determine the length of a stick?

A suitable pole length is ¾ of the skier's height:

Turn the stick upside down and stand it vertically, holding it with your fingers under the ring.

The angle formed by the shoulder and forearm at this point should be 90 degrees. If there is such an angle, the stick is suitable!


What affects the cost?

The cost is mainly affected by the material from which the ski poles are made and their rigidity.

Almost all modern models ski poles are made from light metal alloys, so you are unlikely to find very heavy poles.

Rigidity for beginners is not much difference. It matters already for professional athletes. Therefore, it makes no sense to overpay for it.

On average, ordinary sticks can cost from 1,000 to 10,000 rubles.

Ski binding adjustment

For beginner skiers, in order to avoid various troubles on the slope, I recommend entrusting the installation of bindings to the employees of the store where you buy them! They can do it quickly and correctly.

After installing the mount, it must be adjusted to the sole of the boot:

Put the boot into the binding - insert the toe of the boot into the toe of the binding

Then lower the heel of the boot into the mount

Adjust the binding if the heel of the boot does not match the length of the binding (the end of the binding is too far or too close)

To do this, twist the lever to increase or decrease the length of the mount. The adjustment lever is usually located in the middle of the binding (between the nose and heel) and looks like a "screw" or a sliding "bracket".

When the length of the boot and the binding match, click the binding - lower the heel down (using the lever on the heel of the binding).


Check if the boot is loose in the binding.

Adjust one more parameter on the mount - actuation force.

This parameter allows the skis to automatically unfasten at the time of a fall to reduce the danger to the athlete.

On the toe (on the head), as well as on the heel of the mount, find the scale - the actuation force regulator.

Determine the number you need - this is your weight divided by ten. This is the value above which it is impossible to set a figure in any case, otherwise the ski will not come unfastened when it falls, and this is fraught with injuries. For example, with a weight of 80 kg, the figure should be no more than 8.

Please note that this scale must be adjusted both on the toe and on the heel of the binding!

So, we chose ski boots, picked up the right ski poles and fixed the bindings on the skis! It's time to get your gear right, and very soon you will be able to hit the slopes and feel the joy of skiing!

Enjoy the shopping!

This is the most important component of your ski gear and it is worth spending a little more time, money and energy to find the right pair with a comfortable fit. Your boots are the only way transfer all the intentions of the body to the ski, so for the best control and performance, the exact fit of the boots to the feet is important.

The body of ski boots is made of hard plastic, so conflicts between the shape of your feet and the shape of your boots can lead to health problems. The goal of choosing the right ski boots is to find the right size and shape that you feel comfortable with without sacrificing performance on the slope.

Each rider's foot is unique and there is no one "one size fits all" way to fit a boot. The size, shape, stiffness and other features of your ideal pair of boots depend on the level of skiing, wishes, height and weight, the number of days you intend to ride per year, terrain and other factors. Because of their construction and the function they are supposed to perform, ski boots will never be as comfortable as everyday sneakers, and you shouldn't try to rate them the same.

Remember that the foam used to fill the liner will shrink over time, so if a new boot feels stiff, it will become softer after a few days of skiing. When choosing ski boots, consider the following points:

Skier Level

Start by thinking about whether you fit into the table below. This will give you an idea of ​​what type of boot, flex, and other features to look for in ski boots. We have broken down the types of skiers into three groups based on skill level:

Beginner / advanced rider

You prefer green and blue trails and tend to ride groomed, groomed terrain. You are still mastering skiing, but you are progressing noticeably. The best option for beginner/intermediate riders is a softer to medium flex and a fit that will allow them to ride comfortably all day long.

Progressive / advanced rider

you enjoy different speeds and riding conditions, including steeper descents, and require more precise control from your boots. You ski on both blue and some black runs and experiment with off-piste routes. Advanced skiers ski regularly, for several years in a row, and should look for a medium flex boot with a precise fit that will give you complete control in a wide variety of conditions.

Advanced / Expert

You ski all over the mountain with confidence! You can easily transition from marked trails to the backcountry and navigate all types of snow, including powder, ice and hard snow. You should look for boots with high stiffness and a very precise fit.

Expert-level boots are sometimes deliberately made smaller, both in length and in volume, and then separately work on the most comfortable fit of the boots. By the way, boots for professional park riders are usually softer and more comfortable than for expert freeriders.

The size

Ski boots are measured using the Mondopoint scale, which is based on the length of your foot in centimeters. In fact, Mondopoint is the length in centimeters.


Choose your size carefully. While most people can comfortably walk in shoes that are too big or too small, skiing is more of a challenge, so everything must fit perfectly.

When trying on ski boots, we recommend wearing a thin or very thin sock. A thicker sock can be a bit warmer, but the plastic shell and foam liner provide more insulation for the foot, and the extra thickness in the sock between your foot and boot reduces ski control and response. For this reason, the best skiers wear the thinnest socks.

Beginner/advanced skiers should choose boots with the Mondopoint length listed, or slightly longer if they feel the boot is too small. Keep in mind that the foam in the boot will shrink after a few rides and you will have plenty of room for your toes.


Progressive/advanced riders should also choose a boot size close to the size shown in the table, or slightly shorter but with more stiffness. Pay attention to the width of the boot, and if possible, choose one that sits more comfortably on the foot.

Advanced/expert skiers typically choose a boot size 1/2 down to the specified size for ultra-precise feel and response. Professionals choose hard and very hard models.

Size tables of famous ski brands:






Suitable size

Small to moderate pressure on your thumbs, when the boots are fastened and the legs are upright, usually indicates that after some use the boots will take perfect size. If the boot seems too small, try bending it hard by lifting it up. upper part behind the sock and direct the knee with force forward to the tongue several times. This will push your heel back into the heel of the boot and create more room in the front.

Check the fit of the liner to make sure the pressure is coming from the toe of the liner and not from the hard plastic shell. All ski boots wear well. And it's better to have a boot with a perfect fit at the end of the season than the first time you try it on.


boot body

A common method of measuring liner length is called "body fitting" and it's a good way to check how close your boot is to the correct size. To do this, you need to pull out the liner of the boot. Then insert your foot into your bare body and slide it forward until your long fingers do not touch the body wall. Then check the distance between the heel and the back of the case. Most people do this with their hands or some object of known thickness.

When measured with fingers, a distance of "one finger" or "one and a half fingers" (15-22 mm or 0.6 to 0.9 inches) is considered appropriate. A gap of more than two toes is generally considered large, while less than one toe falls into the "expert racing boot" category.


Note that ski boot manufacturers don't make half-size outer shells, so 26.0 and 26.5 boots usually have the same shell. If you are trying on a size 26.5 boot and it seems too big, go for the next size 25.5 instead of 26.0.

insoles

The perfect fit doesn't just depend on the length of your boot. Like the foot, every ski boot has its own unique shape. Most shoe manufacturers now make two or three separate models or "insoles" to match. various forms legs. As a rule, these insoles can be divided into narrow, medium and wide, and they are related by the width of the forefoot.

Narrow shoe insoles usually have a forefoot width of 97 to 98 mm, and they are also quite narrow in the middle. These shoes are best for people with narrow and thin legs.

The middle insoles have a forefoot width of about 100 mm. Boots with these insoles are well suited for riders with medium foot widths. They provide a softer fit due to a smooth transition from the wide part of the insole to the heel.

Wide insoles are best for skiers with wider, longer legs. The width of such an insole in its front part goes from 102 mm to 106 mm.


If you know what width of insole you usually use in street shoes, then choosing the right insole is not difficult. For example, a foot with a width of "A" or "B" feels better in a boot with a narrow insole, while a foot with a width of "C" or "D" usually corresponds to an average insole of about 100 mm. Skiers with an "E" foot width or larger should look for the widest insoles of 102mm or larger.

As with boot length, insole width is not an absolute standard among different boot manufacturers, and everyone has their own sizing formula. But we made good general recommendations.

By the way, stiffer high performance boots were previously only available with narrower insoles, and experienced skiers who had more wide legs, were forced to simply endure the pain or completely redo the insoles for themselves. And beginners and advanced skiers looking for soft stiffness often had no choice but to buy a wide “comfortable” insole, even if they had a very narrow and small foot.


Fortunately, this trend is actively changing, but experienced skiers with very wide and big feet and beginners with very narrow and small feet may still be faced with a limited choice of insoles.

Ski boot manufacturers often make more than one model with different stiffness, so if you find a boot that fits well but doesn't like the stiffness, see if that model is available in a softer or stiffer version.

Boot size

Volume usually (but not always) goes hand in hand with forefoot width. Shoes with a narrow forefoot tend to have less volume through the midfoot and heel, while boots with a wide forefoot tend to be more comfortable throughout their length. Boot manufacturers do not prescribe volume as a number, unfortunately, therefore The best way find out if the size of the shoes is suitable for your foot - try them on.

Rigidity

Rigidity in ski boots refers to how difficult or easy it is to bend the boot in half. The stiffness of boots ranges from very soft to very stiff, indicated by a numerical "flex index", which is usually a number between 50 (soft) and 130 (very stiff). Often this number is written in outside cuffs.

The method for determining the stiffness index is not standardized between boot manufacturers, so a boot with a stiffness of 100 from one company may not match the same stiffness index from another company, so use the numbers as a starting point, but don't get too hung up on them. In addition, some companies use a scale of 1-10 to rate hardness.


Professional athletes and some expert skiers prefer boots with a stiffness of more than 130, and these boots are usually available on special order with a very small insole and forefoot widths from 92mm to 95mm.

Riding level beginner-progressive progressive-advanced advanced-expert expert racer
Rigidity rating 60-80 85-100 110-120 130+
Feel soft medium hard very hard

Again, since there is no standard for measuring stiffness, it is best to use the stiffness index only as an aid to choosing the model you are interested in or to compare models within the same brand.

Terrain, speed, and snow type also play a role in boot stiffness. Pros and freeriders often opt for slightly softer boots than the top World Cup racers, and park pundits prefer even softer boots.

Mixed snow and very rocky terrain often require a little more cuff movement, while hard and smooth snow surfaces (e.g. racing tracks), requires more effort and pressure on the skis, which guarantee boots with more rigidity. The serious beginner can handle both medium and hard boots perfectly, while some experienced skiers prefer shoes with more rigidity.


Your height and weight also contribute to choosing the best boot stiffness. A rider of small height and weight (for example, a woman) will not transfer much pressure to the ski boots and, therefore, to the skis, so very stiff boots will only limit the movement when skiing.

Riding level beginner-progressive progressive-advanced advanced-expert expert racer
Rigidity rating 50-60 65-80 85-100 110+
Feel soft medium hard very hard

Because women have a lower body mass for their height and leg height than men, women's ski boot flex ratings are slightly lower.

Cuff shape

The fit of the cuff to the size and shape of your lower leg is important part ski shoes. The shape and height of both the shell and the liner can be an important consideration when choosing boots for women (whose shin is usually lower and proportionately larger than men's) and simply for those with a large shin.

If the upper buckles on the boots are very tight, then most models have upper buckles that can be moved to several different positions, sometimes with a screwdriver or wrench, which gives you a greater range of adjustment. Most manufacturers now produce women's special boots that are designed to comfortably accommodate larger and lower shins.


Tilt angle

As a rule, ski boots have a fixed angle of inclination between 11 and 18 degrees vertically. The angle or angle of the boot (lower inside of the boot) relative to the ski is usually fixed, but can sometimes be adjusted by placing shims under the bindings or wedges between the boot and the liner. Some skiers are more sensitive to lean than others.

Peculiarities

Ski boots offer a number of special features to enhance performance, comfort and ease of use.

Inners

The lining is a removable soft inner part boot that protects and insulates the foot from the hard outer shell. Over time, all liners mold to the skier's foot, and those that feel too hard the first time you try them on will take on the shape of your foot after a few days on the slope.

Some boots offer a fully customizable, heat-resistant liner that can be heated in-store and will instantly mold to your foot and won't change when it cools down.


Thermoformed body

Some brands (Salomon and Atomic) offer boot shells that can be heated in a convection oven and made to order. This process will allow you to change the shape of the outer shell of the boot, which is, let's say, too rigid. The thermoforming process must be carried out by qualified personnel.

Reinforced strap

This is the Velcro strap at the top of the ski boot cuff (some boots come with mechanical buckles). When tightened, the strap increases the power transfer and control of the boot. It acts as an additional adjustable buckle and helps reduce the gap between the foot and boot.

Buckle micro adjustment

This feature is necessary to achieve an accurate fit of the boot. The micro adjustment actually shortens or lengthens the buckle and allows you to fine-tune the straps. Turning the buckle clockwise tightens it and makes it tighter, while turning the buckle counterclockwise makes it longer and loosens the boot.

rear spoiler

This is a removable element that is located between the liner and the outer casing, directly behind the lower leg. It does two things: pushes the liner forward a bit and fills in the top cuff to reduce the gap between your leg and body, which can be important for those who want to place the liner a little forward or for skiers with very thin feet.

Hiking mode

Many ski boots have the ability to switch from fixed ski mode to hiking mode. This feature is becoming increasingly popular on hiking boots that are designed to be used both in ski area as well as in mountaineering.

Sole

The rubber outsole aids in walking and hiking on rocks, ice and pavement. Many hiking boots have soles that are curved forefoot for better snow traction and a natural gait.


Buying shoes online

Now that you know what boots you need, you can start looking! We strongly recommend that you do not buy shoes based on price or color alone. It is better not to save on suitable ski boots.

Nobody knows your feet better than yourself. If you think you've found matching shoes that fit great and have just the right amount of firmness, wear them at home for a bit before hitting the slopes. Both you and the shoes must understand that they are made for each other!

In our catalog you can choose ski boots from famous brands for every taste!