What is this thing? How does it differ from the usual bow, so familiar to everyone from children's games? How does it differ from classic bows, shooting from which is olympic view sports around the world? I will answer right away. Ease of use. Simplicity and convenience. Does this mean that the compound bow is a bow for the lazy? To some extent, yes. But it is imperative to make an adjustment for twice, or even three times, the greater strength and speed of an arrow fired from a compound bow.

So what is it, and where is the difference?

The difference is that "compounds" - compound bows work not only by the force of elastic elements - shoulders.

A shot from a classic bow occurs due to the straightening of the shoulders, which the archer bends, pulling the bowstring. It is the shoulders that are responsible for the strength and speed of the arrow of an ordinary bow.

Video - Compound bow device and the basic principles of its operation

In the blocker, everything is not quite so. A compound bow also has shoulders, otherwise it wouldn’t have been a bow. They provide the power of the shot in the same way as on its predecessor - a recurve bow. But the initial speed of the boom is controlled mainly by special blocks located at the upper ends of the arms - eccentrics, interconnected by a system of cables for synchronous operation.

It is this system of blocks and cables that makes the “compound” a bow for the lazy, because its main difference from its classical counterparts is that the bow itself, after the shooter has pulled the string, helps him calmly aim and fire. The fact is that at the very end of the course of the stretched bowstring, the blocks provide the moment of disappearance of the effort that the shooter must make to keep the bowstring in a state of combat tension.

You no longer need to hold the string with your hands shaking from muscle cramps - this is the main difference between a compound bow and a simple one. All that is left for the shooter to do is to make a calm, accurate shot. It is because of this quality that I called the “blocker” in this article - a bow for the lazy.

This property of the compound bow makes it a very accurate weapon compared to conventional classic bows. In competition, the ten target that an athlete shooting in the compound class must hit is one-quarter the diameter of a typical archer's ten. These are the demands of all sports federations archery to a very accurate blocker.

How else is a compound bow different?

Many, very many.

Having retained the basic shape and purpose, the compound bow differs from the rest in the materials from which it is made. I hasten to inform the reader that only very rare and few models of compound bows had, indeed had (past tense) parts made of wood in their design.

The main materials from which the handle is made - the middle part of the compound bow - are alloys of light metals; aluminum, magnesium, etc. The main material of the shoulders is carbon. So the compound is a very technological and modern weapon, not much like the traditional bows of antiquity.

The second most important difference between the compound class is that the design of the bow and the materials from which it is made do not “get tired” like the design and materials of classical and traditional bows, from which it is necessary to remove the bowstring during storage and transportation, bringing them into an incapacitated state .

Blocker is always combat-ready. He does not "get tired" of keeping a combat watch in the service of his owner. During long-term storage, it does not need to be released, disassembled and removed from it with a bowstring and cables, just as it is not necessary to perform these procedures in reverse order to equip the bow.

Agree, serious advantages in relation to other bows.

But what is an onion? This is a sniper rifle! This is what the reader will probably say after reading my story. Partly true, no doubt. Accurate, fast and strong. Even the optical sight has, like a rifle. I'll get better. Not an optical sight - a diopter scope with a lens, a front sight, a protective hood and a level. Everything, as expected from a serious weapon, even the trigger. Surprised? Yes Yes. For shooting from the compound, it is recommended to use a special trigger device - “release”, and not fingers, not gloves and special fingertips.

The factor of muscle fatigue and fingers shaking from the tension of constant shooting disappears completely with the release.

It has a compound bow and a slotted rear sight that all rifles have. It's a pipsite. A small thing, installed right among the fibers of the bowstring, At the level of the right eye of the arrow, which has a hole in the middle, or a "sight bar" with holes of different diameters. It is through it that the shooter sees his aiming scope and further - the target. It turns out a stable long line of sight, strikingly increasing the accuracy of hits, forgiving the archer some mistakes in shooting technique.

Unlike traditional (historical) bows, modern bows, including Olympics and Compounds, are equipped with a shelf for the arrow to come off. In our century, the arrow no longer needs to be held with a finger from the side so that it does not fall out or go to the side.

The holding of the arrow remained in the shooting of the so-called "long bows", and traditional bows. Sometimes it is very painful, because the fired arrow, starting its rapid movement, burns the shooter's fingers with the shaft, I'm not talking about the contact of your fingers with the plumage of the projectile.

Therefore, for onions and sports shooting from which a special arrow shelf. With her appearance, the archer stopped holding the arrow with his fingers and no longer cared about how the arrow would fall and leave the bowstring. Now she lay on her comfortable shelf.

The shelf of the usual classic sports bow - "Olympic" is very simple. This is a plastic part, permanently fixed on the bow handle, creating the effect of an artificial groove - a hollow for an arrow. You will say that an arrow may well slip out of a small groove with a powerful bow. Maybe. But a little ahead, it is held by a metal plate “clicker”, which, working together with the shelf, forms a rigid lock, and until the athlete makes the right movement, reaches the bowstring, the arrow will not come out from under the clicker and not free from the “lock”. And then there will be a shot.

Again difficult. But if things are not so simple with regular, classic bows, what happens in the class of compounders? What kind of shelf stands on these wonders of modern technology. Right. The compound bow shelf itself is also a marvel of technology. A compound bow is already seriously different from its counterparts, therefore, all its devices are no less seriously different.

The shelf for the arrow of a compound bow is not a stationary fixture. I will say more. There are such an unimaginable number of shelves for the block that it can make your eyes run wide. Each has a characteristic difference and purpose. And most importantly! A compound bow shooter can change his stock, replacing it with another often, easily and simply. It is attached to the handle of the bow with a special screw.

Shelves of compounds do not create the effect of "hollow". On the contrary, sometimes they look like a pin sticking out of the bowl, a mustache, and so on. But the arrow will slip, the reader will say. Take it easy. She won't go anywhere. Moreover, during the shot, the shelf also springs under it, relieving the outgoing arrow from unwanted contact with the rigid structure and unnecessary friction. There are designs of shelves that are connected to the bow cable system and, when fired, generally fall from under the outgoing arrow, completely eliminating contact, providing a “clean” exit. Such shelves are called falling.

Both regular and falling limbs of compound bows are adjustable by their owners, providing the shooter with the right spring softness at the “arrow exit”, the right arrow support height and the right horizontal angle in relation to the bow handle. All this cannot be done with the shelves of classical bows, just as it is impossible to achieve such a clean release of an arrow when shooting a traditional or historical bow, when the shooter is forced to stick his fingers everywhere.

Now it's time to tell about the system for protecting the bow from throwing up during the shot. All throwing devices, when fired from them, inevitably throw up. To avoid this, the modern archer uses a stabilizer.

When the bowstring slipped from the fingers, or released from the release, the arrow, which has a long body, continues to move, sliding along the bow shelf, or along the shooter's fingers. At this moment, the bow itself, having released all the energy of its bent shoulders, throws up. But! The tail of the arrow is still firmly on the string! The arrow will go up the target, thrown there by the bow.

So that the tossing does not interfere with the accuracy of the hit, a stabilizer is attached to the bow handle, in a place below the grip of the shooter's hand. Many uninitiated people call it a "stick", asking why this "stick" is attached to the bow? Many initiates (in general terms) call it a "balancer", or "counterweight" - more correct names in comparison with a "stick".

In fact, the stabilizer has only one purpose - to pull the bow down, preventing it from tipping over and prying off the outgoing arrow. But about the stick, I do not agree. After all, this “stick” is made of carbon fiber and is equipped with a weight of a verified mass at the end, or it has a whole system of weights both inside and outside, along its entire length. Very difficult to manufacture, science-intensive and technological "stick". Separately, I would like to tell the reader about its cost, which forever cures the delusion and drives away the desire to call the onion stabilizer a “stick”.

Many bows often have more than one or two of these "sticks". Any bow, except for the historical and traditional ones, can have a whole system of stabilizers: horns, mustaches, and so on in the common people. They do appear to be horns and mustaches. In fact, these are smaller front upper and side lower branches - stabilizers. These "whiskers" and "horns" help not only to prevent the bow from tipping up, but also to block the weapon to the right and left.

Here you see how in fact everything is not simple and complicated. How now, after all of the above, is the onion perceived? A bent stick, the ends of which are connected by a bowstring? Well, this is modernity, the reader will say. In ancient times, for sure, everything was simpler, closer to nature. I hasten to assure you that it was not. Do not be deluded, do not let it lead you into the darkness of ignorance.

Neither in antiquity, nor now simply it was not. Making a bow and the skill of shooting from it was a serious heavy craft, not accessible to everyone. But in ancient times there were no compound bows! - will object to me.

And suddenly there were? What if this is a delusion? After all, the device of the modern compound is suspiciously similar to the device of the ancient Archimedean ballista. Naturally, in antiquity there were no materials from which any modern bow is made. But everything new, as you know, is well-forgotten by people old.

In general terms, I tried to tell the reader about what the “Compound bow” - “Compound” is. I hope I managed not to fall into the abyss of boring scientific and purely sports terms in the course of this narrative and bore you with snobbery.

Compound bow - compound. Very accurate, strong, fast, convenient and beautiful weapon.

Compound bow is the pinnacle of evolution, the completion of the transformation of an ordinary bow into something more. Something more that so many athletes, hunters and outdoor enthusiasts around the world have given their preference to.

And so little is known in our country! Almost nothing is known about compound bows to an ordinary Russian citizen, just as it is unknown that the competition in the “compound” class is held all over the world, along with the Olympic shooting from the classic “Olympic” bow. Often, archery tournaments are mixed, both compound archers and classic archers participate in them, fighting for one, first place with each other. Naturally, athletes shoot at the same time at the "ten" of different diameters, in the block class it is smaller. But the accuracy in the block class is greater.

Compound archery has long been a world sport with its own champions, its own shooting schools, its own federations. We seem to be the last country in the world where this type of archery has remained in its infancy, although more and more athletes prefer to move to the heavier compound class from the traditional Olympic “classics”.

I will touch on another, little-known topic. The theme of Hunting and Recreation with a compound bow. A topic known in any developed country in the world. Bow and arrow hunting sites can be easily found on the Internet. Note! Almost all hunters in the photographs of these electronic resources used a compound bow.

With active outdoor recreation, and in our country it is a holiday in the country, a light blocker can bring a lot of joy to the whole family and especially children when organizing mini-tournaments in archery at a target. You don't have to worry about your wife getting a muscle strain or a child with a dislocated joint. A compound bow simply will not allow this due to the peculiarities of its design. You just have to follow the general safety precautions when shooting (such as; do not point the bow in the direction of a person, etc.) the compound will take care of the rest.

Compound bow - Compound. Very accurate, fast, convenient. A bow that has become a technological marvel of the twenty-first century. I spoke about him only in general terms. Although, each of its parts, each of its accessories deserves a separate detailed story.

Vadim Andreev

LOOP ON A BOWSTRING

The loop on the string has long been a natural and familiar choice for both hunters and athletes. Since the average length of the compound bow is less than 34 inches, the loop on the string is also a recommended must. It is better to use a loop made of materials that include Fast Flite or Dyneema, although cheap nylon substitutes may well work.

How to tie a loop correctly

Some previous articles on bow and crossbow hunting:

Robin Hood toys

For the smallest or physically not very strong children, choosing a bow is quite simple. There are many manufacturers in this market, primarily Taiwanese "Man Kung" and "Poe Lang". This is a block series "MK-CB", like a stylized hunting camouflage "MK-CB009AC" (pictured below), as well as block "CO" and classic "RE" bows from "Poe Lang".

Or their twin brothers from mainland China. In the photo below on the right are typical representatives of younger models, which, in fact, are of interest to us.

There are many. Differences in size, tension, appearance - for some it is quite adult. In the kit, as a rule, there are arrows, a sight, a shelf, a gaiter and a finger guard for protecting hands, sometimes a shako (arrows are fixed in the photo). The quality characteristics of the accessories are quite consistent with the level of the bows themselves. The tension force is quite childish - up to 20-22 pounds, or 10 kg. (And you, comrade parents of a young shooter, slowly get used to pounds and inches, the entire archery tradition is historically built on these units of measurement.)

Prices are floating, until recently they did not go beyond 5 thousand rubles, now - you yourself understand ... As an option, purchase with home delivery on one of the global Internet resources.

ATTENTION! In 2016, the Russian Customs banned the shipment of bows, crossbows and ALL components to them for individuals. Therefore, all information related to their purchase on FOREIGN global resources is for reference only!

By the way, many blockers in this segment, as it were, are not quite blockers - although they have the so-called “force release”, they shoot from them with a classic finger grip, without a release (a device that allows cocking, holding and lowering the bowstring). The sight is also purely classic, sporty.

Different age, different bows. For teenagers, the choice becomes more serious, models too. Basically, they are universal: from most it is quite possible to shoot adults. And sometimes some of us even use them for poaching purposes.

Universal bows

Among the classic bows, the undoubted leadership has been held for many years by the twin brothers - Polaris from the venerable Korean company Samik and Optimo + produced by Sebastien Flute (trademark owned by the Korean Win&Win Archery). According to quite reliable information, both models, belonging to the lowest (for these companies) price category, are produced in China.

It is quite difficult to distinguish them, except perhaps by the inscriptions on the shoulders. Opinions about the quality are different, although the long-term operation of these bows in sports sections, where they are given to be torn to pieces by beginners. In addition, both models are extremely popular at all sorts of outdoor "corporate parties" (Imagine what they do with them there!?).

The length of the bows is from 48 to 70 inches (48”-70”), which covers all possible dimensions of the owners. The following plate will help you choose it (applies exclusively to sports bows, hunting ones, as a rule, 60-62 ″):
Height Bow length
110cm. - 122cm, 48"
122cm - 132cm, 54"
132cm. - 142cm, 58"
142cm. - 152cm, 62"
152cm. - 162cm, 64"
162cm. - 172cm, 66"
172cm - 182cm, 68"
Over 182cm, 70”

That is, as the child grows, you simply buy a bowstring, stronger and longer arms and screw them to the handle. Upgrade completed!
The pulling force also varies from 12 to 38 pounds. The lower limit is for children and slender teenagers. Optimal for our target group and beginner adults - up to 28 lbs (28 lbs). Anything higher, and even more so 38, is doubtful. I shot from the 38-pound Optima, experiencing a certain discomfort - it is felt that all the mechanics are working close to the limit of their capabilities. Still, it is not for nothing that these bows are positioned as models entry level. It is a pity that you can already forget about the recent 5-6 thousand rubles, the price has jumped by about half. Additional shoulders (arcs) cost about 4 thousand.

Well, you can’t ignore a very interesting model, widely known as the Interloper Olympic, aka Poe Lang RE-009. There are very encouraging rumors about their indestructibility and insensitivity to weather conditions and moisture. It is easy to believe: aluminum and fiberglass - there is nothing to swell there. The ones that come with black and blue handles at 30lbs might well fit a burly teenager. The 40-pound "Olympic Khaki" is just the main suspect in poaching, it is very suitable for swampy and generally near-water areas.

Feelings when shooting are ambiguous. The bows are somewhat oaky, at the end of an adult draw, a “stack” is noticeable, that is, a sharp increase in effort. Even after not too expensive collapsible recursives, more high level there is a certain “plasticity” of products, but this, however, is quite normal for bows of this segment.

Handle optimized for medium grip, which is much more preferable for hunting and recreational shooting - it is easier to hold and maneuver the weapon, it does not require a "tie" that limits the freedom of the shooter.

The price of the Olympics is 8-9 thousand rubles.

The classic and traditional bows of all other manufacturers can be left out of this story. Firstly, they are more expensive, and secondly, with the rarest exception, they start from 40 pounds, which is cool even for adults.

Finally, we got to compound bows. Actually, a sufficient number of models from different manufacturers can be suitable for a teenager, all of them are united by the ability to adjust the stretch and tension force. This allows not only to set the parameters in accordance with the level of physical development of the child, but also, by changing them, “grow” with him.

Compound bow: price-quality

Let's go, so to speak, on the rise. A very interesting model was recently thrown onto the market by Interloper. It is named with a claim to leadership - "Rex".

A wide range of stretch adjustment (20 - 29 inches), tension force (15-55 pounds) at a price, although it has grown to 17-18 thousand rubles, put it out of competition in this segment. The complete set is also worth reproducing in full: the bow itself, a sight with five pins and illumination, a pipsite with a rubber nipple, a fleecy shelf (the so-called “hunting”), a stabilizer and a knitting strap, a release loop, a shako, carbon arrows (3 pcs.), fingertip, a set of hex keys. This “beast” is produced in three colors, and the blue one in a special body kit is, as it were, intended for bowfishing, hunting for fish. The bow is short, exactly for a teenager - 71 cm.

It has not yet been possible to shoot from it, just hold it. But there is a certain general increase in the aesthetic level of interloper blocks. Quite a pretty bow, especially in full, even if inexpensive body kit. And it sits nice in the hand.

By the way, pay attention to the blocks. They are much more aggressive than on other Interloper products.

Well, now let's go up to the next step in the block hierarchy. In principle, here it is worth paying attention to three models of famous brands.

First: the teenage bow "Apprentice 3" (which, in fact, translates as "Beginner") from the legendary company "Bear archery". The price, complete with a “hunting” shelf and a sight, was once only 20 thousand rubles.

It is also very short - only 70 centimeters from axis to axis.

But it's still "Bear". With all the consequences. In this model, the manufacturer decided to abandon its inherent monoblock approach in favor of synchronous blocks. According to the profile, they are quite “calm”, and both a teenager and a girl will be comfortable with them. Yes, and the speed of the arrow is small, which is even preferable for friendly shooting.

In terms of maximum tension, it will completely satisfy any adult male - 20 - 60 lbs, the maximum allowed by Russian law. But the short length of the stretch (15” – 27”) at one time made me refuse to purchase the previous modification - “Apprentice 2”.

Refused in favor of a small monster - "Mission Craze". It is about the size of a Rex, looks simple, costs comparable to an Apprentice.

But it’s not for nothing that only one letter separates it from Crazy (mad). "Thug" - he received such a nickname immediately after the purchase. The fact is that in terms of potential power, this relatively cheap tiny little one quite fit the definition hunting weapons. Before the requirements of domestic GOST, my copy was weakened in a rather simple, albeit effective way - the seller insured against possible conflicts with the law. But the speed qualities still remained at the level of more expensive models.

The tension force, like the previous heroes of the review, is adjustable - but already from 15 to 60 (70 - in the original version) pounds. Drawstring lengths range from 19" to 30", covering all ranges from teenager to dashing marine.

By the way, just the other day a new generation model was released - "Mission Craze II":

It is noticeable that, in addition to the exterior, the same handle, the changes affected the blocks themselves. They don't seem to be as "aggressive" as their predecessor.

I am glad that all "Craze" for complete disassembly do not require any additional tools, setting up block synchronization should not be difficult. As well as replacing the bowstring, cables, etc.

But the main thing: the brand “Mission”, which is not yet very popular in our country, is a division of the world-famous company “Mathews”. Actually, even sellers get confused with the correct name of such bows and often write all the names together. As, for example, they did it for the next model of our review.

The "Thug" has a younger brother - "Mathews Mission Menace". Although it is noticeably longer and the stretch is adjustable from 17 to 30 inches, the strength is “only” from 16 to 52 pounds! (joke) The price, depending on the color scheme, for some reason fluctuates higher and lower than that of Craze, by a couple of thousand rubles.

When buying, be sure to take into account that, unlike the Rex and even the Apprentice, the Mission bows are sold without additional accessories. That is, a shelf, a sight, a pip-site, and so on and so forth, you will have to buy more. And in this case, the situation obliges: it is not necessary to complete Mathews products with cheap Chinese devices. Therefore, the final amount may not be childish at all.

And further. All considered blockers are distinguished by a small "axel" - the distance from the axis to the axis of the blocks. Due to the sharp angle of the stretched bowstring, the classic "Mediterranean" grip is almost impossible for them - the fingers and the arrow will be pinched. Accordingly, the kids will have to master a rather complicated technique of shooting with a release. And you can’t avoid buying it for thousands of dollars in two or three or four.

Regarding the quality of the models considered here, it must be said that all bows are worth their money, and any mechanism, even purchased at an exorbitant price, can fail. Think Murphy's Laws.

Here, in fact, our review ended. Surely, there are other bows not mentioned in it, quite suitable for children and teenagers. In this case, I apologize to their manufacturers and sellers - I described only what I personally close and not very familiar with. I will try to follow the same approach in my other articles.

Ahead of us is the choice of an adult bow.

Types of bows: who is who

But first, we have the last, rather difficult, choice: classic or tradition. It is exacerbated by a fair amount of confusion. It would seem that it is simpler - everything that mankind used before the advent of sports bows belongs to the traditional ones. But here, depending on the online store, I meet my “Leopard” either in one category or another.

Therefore, let's agree for the time of reading the article that we will classify all recursives (collapsible and solid), as well as the "modern longbow" with a shelf for arrows, and leave the traditions of the real "longbow"-odnodrevki (the oldest version of the bow is a stick with a rope) and various recursives of Asian type ("Mongolian", "Korean", "Hunnic").

We will not pay attention to the material, since the horn and veins of animals are somehow not very popular now.

I piled up this whole garden only because they are very different, classic and traditional bows. The most important difference is the shooting technique. Let's take a closer look at typical representatives.

Collapsible bow, aka "takedown"

So: the classic "Leopard II" from the Korean "Samik", collapsible recursive, aka "takedown" (takedown).

An exemplary hunting bow is short (60 ″), without any possibility of installing an additional body kit (you will have to, as the student from the joke said, “drill holes”) and very light, in a word, sharpened for running hunting through coppices.

The handle is optimized for medium grip and holds perfectly without any binding to the wrist. Let it be considered that this slightly reduces accuracy, but we are not in competition. The bow stretches softly and confidently, does not tan at the end of the stretch by 28″. I tried to pull "to the ear" - also without problems.

I took it for 9 thousand. At the same time, he was also eyeing Samik's "Deer Master" (here it is, on the right). That one was a thousand more expensive and, judging by the Internet descriptions, it was, as it were, higher than the Leopard. I didn’t understand what the joke was then and I don’t understand now, especially when I read on one authoritative forum that their shoulders are interchangeable. Previously, at least I sinned on the superiority of the "deer" hangers, and the handle I initially liked my own more, in "Deer" it already very much resembles "Palaris".

Although there is clearly something here, since the bowstring base of the Deer Master is almost an inch larger. Yes, and Samik himself positions it a little higher than my predator.

But back to Leopard. It's really not even suitable for amateur sports. Olympic bows are much longer, which means they are more stable, they are easier to pull, again there is a sight. In addition, intuitive shooting requires regular training in the wild, and, as always, there is not enough time for them. Yes, and there is nowhere to shoot in the winter and in the off-season.

For lovers of aimed shooting, there is "Samik SHT". In fact, the same "Leopard", but with holes for the sight, plunger and stabilizer. That is, it seems like a classic "Olympic", only a little short, but the plunger, like that of the "Polaris", will not work correctly due to the thickness of the handle. Therefore, I don’t see much point in taking it, except to put a sight ...

In principle, the only thing that all these bows need for recreational and even hunting use is gluing a simple shelf for fifty dollars (pictured on the left). It will allow the use of plastic-feathered arrows, which are cheaper and more durable than those with natural feathers.

If you prefer a natural product, then everything is even simpler: a piece of leather, short fur or a fleecy part of the Velcro fastener is glued onto the shelf (ledge in the handle). And the plumage will be whole, and the tree of the shelf will not be scratched by arrows.

Another extremely important point. If you are not going to hunt, but just want to shoot a lot and have fun, do not chase power. In any case, before the first campaign for prey, you will change more than one bow and learn how to shoot perfectly, otherwise this campaign will end with a maximum package of mushrooms. But when you walk into the gun department of a hunting shop, you'll find that there will be bows on display with at least 50 pounds of draw force, which is at least a dozen more than your original allowance.

Sellers can be understood: for some reason, the vast majority of buyers are sure that stretching even a training 40-pound bow a couple of times and confidently shooting it at least fifty times in a row is one and the same. I was lucky, because, having sold my first blocker, I followed the recursive already prepared. "Deer Master" was just presented in the singular with shoulders of 60 lbs. In fig, in fig - my constant "couriers" brought a 40-pound "Leopard" to order.

He is alive and well even now, for any reasonable distances his strength is enough for the eyes, and further on and on the hunt no one ever shoots, there the distances are generally from 15 to 30 meters. Actually, I mainly practice on them (see “Where to shoot from a bow and crossbow?”). And, I repeat, I would take a blocker for hunting, because without a miss to hit the target from the minimum 60-pound “takedown” suitable for this task, to be honest, I can’t do it.

Of course, the world did not converge on some relatively budget "Samiks". There are a lot of their analogues. For example, "Ragim Impala".

Here, as on the "SHT", there are even "holes" for the body kit. The price, like that of the Leopard, but again, the handle, in my opinion, let us down. Although the version of "DELUXE" is different, prettier. Reviews are different. What cheered me up, there are obviously fewer negative ones for Samik products, although Ragim has been on our market quite recently and in terms of sales, this, it seems, Italian company does not reach the Koreans.

And, of course, there are many branded collapsible and non-collapsible recursives. Beautiful bows from "Hoyt" with a sort of fantasy motifs. There's no doubt that the "Game Master II" pictured on the left shoots as cool as it looks. It also costs quite well, about 40 thousand, its even more serious fellow "Buffalo" - for 50.

Against their background, chic bows from Bear Archery even look somehow modest. In fact, they cost about half the price. Unlike Hoyt, the company is famous for non-separable recursives and longbows. "Bears" (the slang name for Beara's products) are generally positioned as predominantly hunting bows.

Strong, unpretentious, like blockers, like classic models, now and then light up in commercials about hunting on all continents. Yes, and their names are characteristic, animal-militarist: "Kodiak", "Grizzly", "Magnum" - music! If this is not enough for you, please: "Super Kodiak" (pictured)!

This "beast" is already much closer to what is called "tradition", more precisely, to one of its representatives - "longbow". In translation, this means only "long bow", based on medieval English samples.

Traditional bow: Europe and Asia

To be honest, in early childhood, not having iPhones, and some people even TVs, we remade the sea of ​​these “longbows”. They just didn't know what they were called. They even followed some kind of technology - they cut the trees in winter, in the absence of sap flow, peeled them from the bark, and then dried them.

It is clear that modern factory or bows from masters are head and shoulders above our old crafts. Here, for example, "Sir Henry" - a real traditional longbow from "Bearpaw".

And his appearance is purely factory, and there is a leather trim on the handle, and the bowstring is not made of rope, but, it seems to me, Dacron. And all this for less than 5 thousand.

I can’t tell much about such “rarities”, it’s just not my topic. What should be taken into account, if you are interested in them, then it is considered good form to observe a small historical entourage. So, they should be shot with wooden arrows with natural, naturally, plumage. The clothes also match: coarse fabric, a lot of natural brown and red leather, no capron for you.

This is far from the main thing. All classic models are essentially centrifugal (blockers by definition), that is, the arrow passes almost through the vertical centerline of the bow and is not very affected by the so-called "bow paradox". Accordingly, it is relatively easy to aim and hit. But in a longbow, the arrow, due to the lack of a cutout in the handle, looks to the left. How they manage to send it exactly to the target - this is the essence of the art of archery. Is there anything new to think about? But the taste of victory will be much sweeter!

Exactly the same difficulties are faced by shooters from another type of traditional bow - Asian. Here they are exacerbated by the short length of the weapon, which does not allow shooting with a "Mediterranean" three-finger grip. You can pull the string with two fingers, middle and index, but this trick will not work on strong bows. You will have to master the technique of shooting with a ring. This, I will report to you, is generally something with something. But there is a story about her too.

In the photo on the right - one of the fastest bows of the "Asian" type "Wind Fighter". It is considered extremely unsuitable for a beginner precisely because of nimbleness and skittishness.

Very short, only 50 inches, available in strength from 20 to 60 pounds, costs about 13 thousand rubles. Buying too weak, but calm, I don’t see much point, you can immediately take a more accommodating onion and not “compromise” a formidable name.

Actually, this is what I did, having taken “SKB” at one time, in decoding and translation - “Samikovsky Korean bow”. Yes, yes, again from Samik, well, he makes good and inexpensive bows.

The same 50″, strength 40-50-60 lbs, the price today is 11,500. It would seem that there is not much difference with the Wind Fighter. But take a closer look at the photos: the significantly smaller base of the Wind Fighter is immediately evident than that of the SKB. The smaller the distance from the stop of the handle to the bowstring (base), the more agile the bow, but also faster.

But this is not the only thing, it seems that these models also have completely different material for the arcs. In "Korean", in addition to wood, there are already traditional beam polymers. What's inside the Fighter? It looks like carbon. Yes, and his shoulders also look somehow different ...

Anyway. We found out the main thing: any traditional bows are much more difficult to master than any classic ones, and therefore even more interesting. Not very suitable for Sunday recreational shooting. The price is comparable (if you do not touch the brands).

It is not surprising that it is Asian bows, and even longbows of all kinds, that are so loved by craftsmen. Still, collapsible recursives are a product of the last decades, and ancient traditions have managed to soak into our blood for thousands of years.

Well, a little from myself.

1. Wood for the bow

In my experience, I fully agree with acacia, maple and hazel as excellent choices. The only pity is that the tree species listed in the article do not grow everywhere. And not everyone can confidently distinguish beech with ash from other hardwoods. But there is another tree that is quite widespread, well-known to everyone and at the same time completely uncharacteristic of onion building. This is an ordinary spruce.

But there is one subtlety here. Pay attention to the lower branches. They are usually longer than all the others, and they have needles only at the ends. From the very beginning, they are shaded and grow in length, trying to get out of this shadow. Thus, all other points of growth are oppressed, and side shoots are much weaker than those of the upper branches. This means that knots, that is, the main defects of any wood, are much smaller here and they are small. The only thing is that the needles at the end should be green, this indicates that the branch itself is alive.

With the exception of resinous secretions, spruce branch is an excellent starting material for homemade onions.

2. Bowstring

“They don’t go into the forest without a knife and a rope” - there is such an ancient rule. As for the latter, not everyone is suitable for a bowstring. Again, from experience, I recommend the widely used construction plumb line with the Stayer cord, known to professionals as the "lace". It does not swell, does not rot, does not stretch, in a word, it fully meets all the requirements of camp life, including archery.

And it costs a penny - it is unlikely that you will take expensive Dacrons with Fast-Flights as a universal rope on a trip.

It is clear that the cord is folded 6-8 times, then loops are made at the ends, and when put on a bow, it twists 15-20 turns (clockwise for right-handers, counter-clockwise for left-handers). You can do without a protective winding for a practically disposable product.

Important addition: it is better to make a loop only from one end, and simply tie the other. So you can adjust the "base" of the bow (the distance from the handle to the bowstring). Shoot, but not “blank”, from it, lengthening / shortening the bowstring, and stop at its length, providing maximum comfort of the shot with maximum strength. Achieve the absence of unpleasant vibrations, the bow should not be too sluggish and too twitchy, skittish. Take the “base” of 15 centimeters as a basis, and dance from it. Then you can make a second loop, but you can do without it - let the knot always remain tied, remove the bowstring for a period of inactivity, you will only use one shoulder for storage and transportation.

The so-called "nest" for the arrow (pictured) according to the results of the shooting (Google help!) Is created using several turns of thread, followed by sizing. Or generally thin strips of adhesive tape (adhesive plaster).

3. Arrows

This is perhaps the most difficult in our case. If the bow itself can look rather clumsy, then the requirements for shells for it are much tougher. To be honest, it is better to purchase both arrows and arrowheads, albeit the cheapest, but factory-made, in advance and store them in a drawing tube and a box with foam rubber. Nothing will happen to them (see "").

I must say right away that in the field to achieve their uniformity in spine (bend), texture, weight, etc. impossible. That is, they will fly differently. There can only be one way out. Do not chase the quantity - make three or four more or less the same arrows and mark them. Then, having shot, you will already know: "Yeah, this one with coal longitudinal stripes takes a little to the left, and that one with rings - up." After training, it will be possible to recognize them even by touch, at night, for example.

How to calculate the length of future arrows based on your own individual stretching- the subject of a completely different story. It is understood that these procedures, as well as the actual technique of shooting from traditional bows, have long been known to you. Otherwise, after a lot of effort, you will get nothing more than a toy that shoots “in that direction”. In a word, learn and train in advance.

Now about the manufacturing process itself.

Good (and relatively straight) shafts are obtained from skinned shoots of wild rose, the same hazel. There is nothing particularly tricky, everything is clear intuitively.

We used reeds/reeds extensively in childhood. In principle, workable shells were obtained. Difficulties will arise with the slit of the shank and when shooting from strong bows - this material is too fragile.

The third option is the so-called "hot" arrows. Yes, yes, they are the most, from fairy tales and epics. The name comes from the word "stab". Simply put, you get blanks for them by dissolving a log into boards with an ax, and then boards into more or less straight bars. Finish the latter with a knife, trying to achieve the best geometry and relatively uniform thickness of all products. Then it is desirable to smooth them as much as possible, to grind them with the same sand.

It is very difficult to make a normal shank slot (pictured) without special tools such as a needle file. Quite enough is a centimeter central slot with a semicircular profile of the bottom, preferably not cut out, but sawn and burned out at the end, for example, with a red-hot nail.

As for the place for attaching the tip, it will depend on its type (about them below) - either a slot, if it is inserted, or a cone, if it has to be put on an arrow.

4. Plumage

Remember the main thing: feathers for one arrow should be from one wing, left or right. Otherwise, it is clear that the feather is split with a knife along the rod, wrapped with threads indented from the heel and glued. The classic triple (at an angle of 120 degrees) plumage is difficult to reproduce in the field, but it is quite possible to get by with double, from below and from above.

The flight feathers of waterfowl, for example, geese, are considered the best, while crows are not very quoted. But here's what you're lucky to find.

5. Tips

The problem rivals in complexity the manufacture of a shaft. The simplest and, by the way, practical option is to purchase them, as well as insert bushings, in advance and take them with you. Otherwise, you will have to do it yourself from improvised materials.

Leave immediately the idea of ​​flint tips - the art of its processing is a thing of the past along with the Stone Age. We have three main options to choose from.

Can tip. Rectangles are cut out of a thick-walled (not beer) can, twisted into cones, the points are flattened symmetrically by the butt of the hatchet. The front end of the arrow with periodic fittings is slightly ground down under a cone (a large chamfer is removed) so that the tips look strictly along its axis, then they sit on the glue. Tested by many years of children's shootings.

bone tip. Tubular bones of animals and birds, including those already split lengthwise, can be found anywhere at the place of the feast of predators. It may be necessary to overcome innate disgust, but the result is worth it - a durable, extremely sharp fragment with jagged edges will inflict terrible lacerations on the prey and ensure deep penetration into the flesh and rapid blood loss. When hit "in place", of course.

Glass shard tip, an analogue of the hooligan "rose". Broken alcohol bottles are even easier to find than feathers and bones. They are regularly exported even from Antarctica. Glass can be carefully chipped to give it a characteristic triangular shape with an opposing “tail” – it is much easier to work with it than with stone. Actually, we will get an analogue of the ancient flint product (pictured). The finished tip is inserted into the slot with a shank, wrapped with threads and glued. Wounds from him are also extremely dangerous.

All of these products are essentially disposable. But we are not going to use them for sports, so the “one tip - one roe deer” layout looks very attractive.

Learning from the Neanderthals

In the end, you can do without tips at all. I bring to your attention one instructive story that will add some optimism.

In 1979, a group of “necromancer” archaeologists dragged the carcass of an elephant that had died in the zoo into the cellars of the Leningrad Zoological Institute of the USSR Academy of Sciences and did an absolutely amazing thing. According to the ancient stone tools of the “Heidelberg man” and early Neanderthals at their disposal, modern copies were made and meticulously tested in practice. It turned out that the wonderful flint "knives" - flakes, perfectly cutting the flesh, are not able to cope with the skin - the so-called "hacks" are needed. And it is better to cut the tendons also with special tools with notches found at ancient sites.

But we are interested in something else. No objects resembling arrowheads were found in the excavations - for hundreds of thousands of years they simply did not exist, this is a product of relatively recent times. Meanwhile, the skeletons of hundreds and thousands (!) of elephants, rhinos and other similar animals are found at the sites of our most ancient ancestors (that's why scientists were delighted with the opportunity to train on an elephant). What were they obtained with? The only suitable object was also petrified spears with fire-burnt tips. A natural question arose: what, this is a rhinoceros!?

Here it is necessary to note one detail. Archaeologists in general are very different from armchair humanists who study the souls of excellent (and not so) impulses - from art historians-sociologists to lawyers-psychologists. It is not for nothing that archeology is one of the most disliked subjects among students of history departments, the ability to “beautifully do blah blah blah” and mechanically memorize dates will not help here, real knowledge and skills are required. In addition, even during student field practice, archaeologists have to get acquainted with a kind of benevolent “hazing”, that is, they do a lot of work with a shovel and scoop, throwing tons of soil under the close supervision of senior comrades. In general, they are a kind of proletarians of mental labor, having not only a head, but also properly sharpened hands.

Here, scientists also did not blunder by making copies ancient weapons and having plenty of training with them on an unfortunate animal. I quote: “So, a wooden spear with a tip burned at the end can be driven into the carcass of an elephant to a depth of 60-80 centimeters. With one blow." Q.E.D. Of course, the carcass of an elephant is very different from a powerful and aggressive beast, but modern people (even archaeologists!), to put it mildly, physically lose not only to Neanderthals, but also to our immediate great-grandfathers Cro-Magnons, whose average height was about 185 centimeters.

At the very least, we figured out the children's bow, it's time to think about yourself, your beloved. Since we are confident in our own prudence and firmness of character, the breadth of choice and the limits of spending funds this time will have no boundaries! This, of course, is another joke - the principle "measure seven times" will never lose its significance. Although we have a choice, yes - it has expanded considerably.

First, a few words about the bows of the Olympic class - "olympics" (not to be confused with the same name of one of the junior models of Interloper).

As an ideological opponent of amateur real sports, I really do not advise you to immediately purchase high-quality sports handles, shoulders, body kit. If you really can’t bear it at all, and you can’t find a section or an experienced archer in your locality, then buy the good old Samik Polaris or SF Optimo with 68-70-inch shoulders and a draw force of no more than 30 pounds for 5-6 thousand rubles.

You will have to purchase accessories more or less sharpened for sports: an SF fingertip (500-600 rubles), a shelf for a classic bow (plastic - 50, spring and magnetic from 200 to 400 rubles), a sight (native "SF Optimo" - 600 rubles , a higher level from SF or "Cartel" - up to a thousand).

Leggings (forearm protection) can be bought for 200-600 rubles, or you can make it yourself (two elastic bands and a sidewall from a flat shampoo bottle), a beginner is unlikely to be able to pick up all kinds of stabilizers and balancers for his bow himself, but the cheapest, again from SF there will be a thousand and a half.

You won't need a plunger (budget - 600 rubles): "Polaris", like a number of Samik's recursives, is not quite a full-fledged "Olympic" and needs to be reworked.

You can, however, immediately purchase a semi-professional handle like "Sebastien Flute Premium" and the corresponding shoulders (9000 + 6000 rubles), but here I am already invading an unfamiliar area.

Even in this case, you will only receive the starter kit. A real Olympic bow with a body kit will cost tens of thousands of rubles, and even without a professional trainer right choice it will be difficult to say the least.

But then, if later, after shoveling a mountain of literature, training hard and, of course, having stuffed all possible bumps, you don’t go astray and really go to buy an Olympic-class bow, then you will have full “respect and respect” from all amateur archers. Although in this case, without having a well-placed technique, you will not be able to make your way into big-time sports, unless you are a nugget shooter.

For you, as well as for all beginners, the corresponding section provides links not only to books, articles and forums, but also unique training videos. For which a huge thanks in absentia to the real Masters Alexandra Lebedeva, Lyudmila Arzhannikova and Vsevolod Masyakin.

In general, I must say that in everything that concerns bows, I by no means act as an expert, but rather a person who has not yet managed to forget his first steps in this field and perfectly remembers the sensations of a damaged nerve with the wrong grab the bowstring. It is better to get advice on the material part and professional shooting technique from professionals.

I went exactly this way and therefore I provide you with links to articles by really competent specialists. In principle, you can gain your wits on thematic forums, but the really useful material is scattered across posts there, and it’s better to go to them not with the question “What to buy for ten thousand?”, But already having a little idea about the subject of conversation.

Archery training. The archery section of our website contains information about almost all well-known archery clubs and sections in Moscow and Russia. If you have information about the existence of a section (club) that is not in the list, you can add it. Choose the right place for archery. In most sections, archery classes for children are free. Sets of children and adults in the section usually take place at the beginning school year(September), but most coaches continue to accept newcomers throughout the year. In sports schools, as a rule, beginners are given a bow for beginners, arrows and the necessary equipment. In extreme cases, you can buy a bow for shooting in numerous online stores selling bows, crossbows and related products. The cost of a bow for a beginner is about 3 thousand rubles. Join. Just one word of warning: Archery is a very addictive sport, it can drag on, and for a long time ;-)

NEWS section in the world of archery. This section constantly publishes news happening in shooting sports, opening of new sections or clubs, competitions, archery tournaments, changes in competition rules, interviews with coaches and archery athletes and much more. You can publish your announcement (article, news) about an upcoming (or past) competition, tournament, or other event. Please indicate the coordinates of the organizers, the date of the event, the place, etc.

The passion for archery in our country arose relatively recently and almost spontaneously, mainly after the appearance on the screens of the saga about the adventures of the hobbits. Judging by the number of materials in Runet about bows and shooting from this ancient throwing weapons, the number of followers of Robin Hood and William Tell is growing exponentially.

The most burning question for neophytes is where to start, how and which bow to choose? There is no single answer to it, so we will try to tell you a little about everything: types of bows, their advantages and disadvantages, selection criteria - a process in which you will have the last word. So, let's find out what kind of bows are for shooting, which one to choose for hunting, and in general, what to choose, a bow or a crossbow?

The design of a weapon for throwing a feathered stick with a sharp end has been improved over the millennia, refuting the saying about the futility of the invention of the bicycle. Therefore, today we have three varieties of bows.

The basic rules for choosing bows are presented in this video:

Traditional

Those that our ancestors used until the moment a firearm fell into their hands. These are the bows of the Indians, Papuans, Eskimos, Chukchi and other indigenous peoples. This and replicas military weapons peoples of Europe and Asia.

They are made using well-known and restored technologies, using natural materials - wood, leather, natural adhesives. There can be no talk of any mass production of such products, each bow will have its own characteristics, style of behavior, one might say - character. Mastering the traditional bow takes years of daily practice.

We will talk later in this article about which traditional bow to choose.

Classic

These are bows used in sports and therefore called "Olympic". They are related to the traditional ones by the way of accumulating energy for a shot - by bending the elastic branches (shoulders) of the bow. Most of these bows have a recurve shape - a double curvature of the shoulder.

This design allows you to store twice as much energy with the same length of the elastic beam. Everything is very simple - one arc works in compression, the other in tension. Europe owes the appearance of recurve bows to the Huns - a nomadic people who came from the Steppe.

The sporting purpose of the classic bow predetermined the fact that they began to install elements on it that made it possible to significantly increase the accuracy of shooting and to exclude elements of chance from the training process as much as possible. These are sights, balancers, shelves for arrows from which they descend without hitting the handle, vibration dampers.

They are related to the traditional ones by the way of holding the arrow when the bowstring is pulled. The most famous are two of them: English - the shank of an arrow between the index and middle fingers, as well as Native American - the index finger (the shank lies on it) is held by the bowstring with the middle and ring fingers.

The most essential element of the classic bow, despite its external insignificance, is the shelf on which the arrow is held. The ingenious design, the types of which are innumerable, allows the arrow to descend from the bowstring without hitting the hilt with plumage. This made it possible to abandon natural feathers, replace them with rigid stabilizers and significantly increase accuracy.

Sports rules prohibit the installation of devices on a classic bow, with which you can build a line of sight based on more than one point.

In addition, pulling the bowstring is always a strength exercise, because as the shoulders bend, their resistance increases. Therefore, learning to shoot from such bows is almost as difficult as from traditional ones. But training can be systematized and achieve good results much faster.

Block

We owe their appearance in 1969 to Holles Allen, who lived in Missouri (USA). The design is based on a system of blocks (chain hoists), which increase the force applied to the running end as many times as there are these blocks.

The energy for throwing an arrow is accumulated not only in the shoulders, but also in the system of cables, one of the branches of which is the bowstring. A feature of these bows is the "wall" effect - the release of force when the maximum draw point is reached. It reaches 80 percent. If, for example, the MK-SV75 compound bow has a maximum pulling force of 27 kilograms, then at the moment of aiming, the shooter needs a force of 4 kilograms to hold the bowstring.

The power diagram when pulling the "blocker" is a mirror image of the same process in the classic bow. First, there is an overcoming (peak of effort) of the elasticity of the shoulder, which has potential energy. As the tension increases, it accumulates in the cables (turns into kinetic), and the force applied by the archer to the bowstring falls. Athletes have recognized this phenomenon as a scam, so compound bows are not allowed in the Olympic Games. But it became possible to equip it with such elements that equated its effectiveness with firearms.

In addition to shelves for arrows, balancers and vibration dampers (optional), compound bows are equipped with complexes for building a line of sight. This is a sight with a ring frame and a pip-site - a ring in a bowstring through which the arrow can see the target.

But the most interesting detail was the release - a device thanks to which the shooter pulls the bowstring with the shoulder and elbow joints, like a lever. Fingers are not involved in this process, the hand is relaxed. Choosing a compound bow is not an easy task.

The most popular block models are:

How to choose a bow for shooting for beginners, block for hunting, sports or otherwise - you will learn all this below.

Choice problems

When choosing throwing weapons, they usually focus on compliance with historical truth (aesthetics), combat effectiveness, ease of possession, and price.

Truth and aesthetics

Many people are drawn to archery by the desire to be like the elf Legolas, other fantasy or historical characters. Although archaeologists have proven the fact that English archers suffered from monstrous scoliosis.

• Most faithfully repeat the contours and design traditional bows Samik products (ex. ). They have a handle made of glued solid wood, and removable shoulders are laminated with an external plastic coating. The only thing that can be installed on them without damage to the structure is a shelf that allows you to use arrows not only with natural plumage. The model (Sebastian Flute) is similar to them. Bows are also good.
• real olympic recurve bows produced by SF. The series starts with the Axiom model. They have an aluminum handle, on which you can install a sight, balancer, plunger, shako. This is a transitional option between tradition and classic: their shoulders are laminated - wood covered with plastic. There are options for classic bows, completely made of modern materials. For example, the Blue Knight Bow (), which has fiberglass shoulders and an aluminum handle.
• Compound bows- this is an industrial aesthetic, they are a machine for throwing arrows.

This video will tell you how to choose the right bow for a beginner shooter for hunting:

combat effectiveness

• Classic bows give all the energy to the arrow during the descent of the bowstring. Due to the short duration of the force impulse, the arrow flies at a speed of no more than 50 m / s and does not have a large penetrating power. However, this allows you to increase the rate of fire if you do not draw the bow at full strength or do it in a jerk.
• At blocker the arrow accelerates relatively slowly, and the peak of force occurs at the moment it leaves the shelf. The arrow flight speed reaches 90 m / s, it is possible to use heavy arrows with high penetrating power. That is why such bows are most often positioned as hunting ones. Incomplete stretching of the bowstring is impossible, the rate of fire is low. But the accuracy and accuracy of hits is comparable to firearms.

Ease of ownership

First of all, this is the ability to customize the bow for yourself.

• Classic models are not in vain made collapsible. And due to the fact that for adjustment it is necessary to change the shoulders - for shorter or longer, rigid or elastic. When choosing such a bow, it is customary to focus on the growth of the shooter. Although the British proceeded from a different consideration: a longbow with the same tension force is less deformed, and therefore lasts longer.
• Blocky the bow is adjusted by changing the position of the blocks on the eccentrics. This does not require high qualifications from the owner, additional costs for the purchase of shoulders and bowstrings.

Wherein:

• By today's standard, a classic hunting bow cannot be longer than 60 inches (150 cm). Sports bows reach a length of 70 inches. The length of blockers does not exceed 90 cm; it is less problematic to wade through the forest wilds with it.
• In terms of weight, only the classics used in the barebow variant win over blockers - without a modern body kit, including sights.

Price

This is the most controversial criterion. If you evaluate the bow in combination with combat effectiveness and richness of equipment, then compound bows turn out to be cheaper.

• For example, Samik Polaris, which the manufacturer positions as a bow for beginners, is a good choice, costs more than 11 thousand rubles, and only a bowstring and a simple shelf are included in the package. The force of its tension is not more than 36 pounds (16.3 kg). A set of interchangeable shoulders costs at least five thousand.
• Compare it to the same tier Barnett Vortex compound bow, which costs 15k. Tension force from 19 to 45 pounds (9 to 21 kg), adjustment does not require any investment. The delivery set includes three arrows, a sight with three pins, a shelf, a shako.

Conclusion

If you want to master archery as an art, shapes and lines amuse your aesthetic taste, then buy the classics, which, by the way, can also.

Compound bows for those who value practicality first of all, who have no time to visit the training halls, and want to achieve good results quickly. But if you want to switch to classic bows, then they will have to learn again.

This video will tell you how to choose arrows for a bow:

The popularity of hunting compound bows today is so high that in megacities, where the vast majority of the main buyers of compound bows live, sales of TOP-class bows are more than twice that of smoothbore weapons, although bow hunting is still prohibited in Russia. Such popularity is associated with the exclusivity of the compound bow hunt itself, and with the opportunity to join the aesthetes of a rare type of hunting, to show comrades an outlandish type of hunting and equipment, as well as the lack of need to license such purchases, and the indomitable desire of still young, but already wealthy people to compete with Nature on an equal footing, dressing the hobby in such a technologically new, but such a long-forgotten adventure environment, memorable from childhood. Even on the sports shooting range, fellow archers always come up to chat with the archers, whose bows are painted in mountain camouflage colors. It is always interesting for a stand-up, even eminent one, to see what new hunter-archer masters have created, and to listen to stories from the world of wildlife, from which stand-ups are far away in their daily 100-shot training. You are guaranteed popularity. But until the first mistake, which, of course, they will not forgive you. You are different from both. Therefore, the hunter-archer must be above chance. And this gives only experience, and, often, not at all pink.

Having reviewed bow hunting itself in general terms in a previous article, and also providing our readers with a detailed guide to compound bow shooting (links at the end of this article), today I would just like to give a few recommendations to novice “compound hunters” for faster involvement in the professional process of developing useful personal experience. This is always best perceived when you tell people what you use yourself. Moreover, as always, the equipment was selected for me by professionals of the highest level. Here are some of their tips in my interpretation, taking into account personal feelings, and I will tell you. So, how to choose a compound bow for hunting.

Choosing a compound bow for hunting

We are not rich enough to buy cheap things, so you need to choose the right bow for hunting. This classic French proverb can be safely attributed to hunting bows. But with a few caveats. There are a lot of manufacturers of compound bows, but today there is no alternative to the American manufacturer. For the most part, this is due to the fact that bow hunting in America is a very popular and widely promoted activity, which means that the manufacturer has long been focused on demand. The industry is rich and historically backed by Native American roots, which results in the most advanced machines in the field of hunter-archer. Importing a hunting bow to America is a much simpler matter than importing it to Ukraine (although, if you do not have an invitation from the Federation of Shooters or a hunting society, you can still negotiate with Ukrainian customs officers if you have printouts from their own legislation with you, which they are completely unaware of). The laws of Ukraine are so poorly developed that they contradict themselves. Therefore, if you do not have a copy of the Decrees on the recognition of compound bow shooting as a sport and documents on certification of your bow not as a throwing weapon, it is better not to advertise the bow at customs. Just put it on the top luggage rack (since it's flat and not visible), and forget about its existence. As a rule, customs officers do not climb up, limiting themselves to a superficial glance. Therefore, neither I nor my friends had any problems. But copies of documents certified by the seal of the seller should always be carried with you, otherwise you can lose an expensive thing. Our customs officers know the law much better, but hunters are viewed with suspicion, forcing bows to be checked in, knowing full well that declaring 60-pound hunting bows as "recreational and recreational sports equipment" can only be done for good money in a well-developed industry, and that a smoothbore weapon with a 60-pound bow can only compete in rate of fire, no matter what it is loaded with. Well, nice, we have fewer problems, more freedom. Yes, and no one has yet killed anyone from the block player in Russia. Either all archers are people of high psychology, or people with such a level of wealth for "showdowns" prefer rapid-fire firearms.

I also want to immediately warn the user from attention to idle tales of various kinds and legendary legends about the home-grown "Wilhelm Tells" in Russia. These already exist in the scary tales that roam among aspiring archers. For example, not long ago another story “about a bear littered in a second on the spot with one arrow to the neck” flashed by. Yes, such a case took place. However, this archer went to his "boar ambush", and was not going to hunt a bear at all. Moreover, the shooter had no choice - the bear had already stood up when the archer began to make a Hamlet decision. And the most interesting thing is that the experienced shooter was not at all going to release the “Robin Hood Arrow” from his bow, but tritely tried to quickly and lethally shoot at the heart of a rising bear from a fairly close distance. Even if he succeeded, a bear at such a distance would probably have time to tear it. But, by the will of Chance, the arrow turned out to be smarter than the shooter and landed exactly on the clubfoot's neck, interrupting the latter's all potential for movement. The bear collapsed dead on the spot, and the archer sat there for a long time with trembling hands, wondering how in such an amazing way at such a distance he so successfully missed with a fright. Any other shot could have cost him his life. But the legend is overgrown with details, and the participant in the events simply prefers to keep quiet. A compound bow is not a deadly weapon at all - it is only a tool for filigree craftsmanship, which you will have to hone for more than one year. And only then will you be able to show anyone that a modern compound bow is much more effective and more pleasant than any smooth-bore, and often rifled hunting weapon, allowing you to beat both a bird and the largest animal in any conditions at distances inaccessible to firearms. At the same time, not being a weapon at all.

As for the choice of a particular manufacturer of a compound bow for hunting, each wader always praises his swamp, however, all well-known sellers and archers for hunters recommend MATHEWS MacPherson bows first of all. The BEAR bows are closest to them, but the “bear”, compared to the “Matthews”, is a rather rough and unreasonably heavy machine, which is by no means important when hunting with a bow. BEAR should be taken if you are going to hammer nails or push bushes with this bow, and your physical condition is quite decent, and you love every opportunity to “pump up a muscle”. Otherwise, you will have to use a good expander for some time before using the bow to pump up the triceps, biceps, dorsal and other muscles that will allow you to comfortably aim by stretching the BEAR. The so-called "reset" (that is, the ability of the bow eccentrics to remove tension from the archer's hand when it is pulled) is 80% for MATHEWS (that is, the efficiency of the block mechanism is such that it reduces the archer's effort to hold the arrow in the stretched bow by 5 times compared to the primary string tension). I do not think that each of you will pull BEAR at least three times (or even once). The BEAR's trunnion cable handling is generally ridiculously flimsy, and so on. All this was explained to me personally by several repeated champions of Russia in archery, and I myself checked their advice many times on my own experience, having dragged both BEAR and MATHEWS, and their clones many tens of kilometers through the forest and through the fields.

Firstly, this is a 2008 model, and in 2009 nothing significant happened in this area. Let me explain.
Of course, McPherson in 2009 released new model"Monster", but it has no significant value for us. There are many reasons for this. "Monster" is redundantly powerful. The standard "Switchback" will pierce the moose through and through from a distance of 60 meters, and will kill at least from 100 (if you can hit it from that distance). It is possible to bring down elephants from a bow, but hardly anyone among us hunts elephants with a bow (if this happens, then such a buyer himself knows what he needs without me). We also have nowhere to shoot lions through tangles into the mane, as well as hippos. "Monster" exceeds the force of string tension allowed in Russia for bows sold without permission from the Department of Internal Affairs. "Monster" is very difficult to stretch, and not everyone can do it (and if you have a stretch of 29-30 feet, then on the third time it is quite difficult even for "jocks"). It will be funny if you are tired and cannot stretch the bow in front of the object of hunting. Yes, if it's not very sad later. If you have a large draw (29-30) and tips weighing 140 grains, then the power reserve of an arrow fired from a Switchback from a distance of 60 meters (the limit for a smoothbore weapon) is such that you can hardly find that bear in Russia ( including the white one) whom it cannot kill. I don't think any beast in Russia would require a 29 foot drawback Switchback at all to have a tip weighing more than 125 grains. And that is not all.

There is one more “but” that only experienced archer hunters know about. After a lethal hit, a large animal retains another 30-50 seconds of life, during which it is able to reach the hunter. Therefore, careful archers take a hunting companion with a smoothbore or a carbine (just in case), and careful and experienced archers ... take not extremely powerful bows, or loosen the screws for clamping the bow shoulders. That's exactly what I do.

In fact, the arrow should not fly through the beast. It is much better if she remains in the body of the beast, thereby fixing it muscle corset and often skeletal mobility. Thus, it seems to bind the beast's mobility until it starts to turn off, thereby limiting its mobility, and accordingly increasing your safety. Therefore, I unscrew the fixing bolts on both sides of the bow by about 180 degrees on the wild boar, 360 degrees on the wolf and gilt, 540 degrees on the hare and black grouse (the latter are not dangerous, but pulling out of the ground or tree trunk in the first case 30, and in the second 7 centimeters of the arrow and I also don’t want to constantly change the blades on the tips). For the same reason, they unscrew the same amount for game, and also in order to find their arrow when they miss, either by themselves or with the help of a dog. By the way, carbon arrows float successfully, so lifting them from the water is quite possible, which means shooting at waterfowl (the arrow dog can easily find and bring it, it won’t bite through the carbon).

Secondly, and the DXT models from MATHEWS, which are supposedly more modern than the Switchback, are also less recommended by me for all hunters. There are also several reasons.

For example, indeed, DXT is more compact and lighter than Switchback (not by much, but still it is). However, if you have a large stretch (i.e., long enough arms), then when mounting a shako with arrows already 28 feet, you will realize that the arrows are much longer than the bow, and all the compactness of the DXT was useless. With arrows longer than the bow itself, the whole structure looks purely visually not quite aesthetically pleasing, and this is often important for a TOP buyer. In addition, at big stretch when shooting, the bow itself does not behave as we would like - a large bowstring stroke affects a small structure more strongly, damper overloads are great, and this is already serious. Moreover, the DXT is a rather delicate thing, and the powerful connection of the shoulders with the handle (frame) of the Switchback is much more reliable in all sorts of accidents, and even more necessary if you use the course of the shoulder screws to adjust the tension of the bowstring. After one of the Barnetts I bought broke down in this very place, I personally lost the desire to buy structures lightweight in this place from any manufacturer. Even such eminent as MacPherson.

Thirdly, Built-in MATHEWS harmonic stabilizers, the new Barracuda bowstring, wooden grips, stylish ties, impeccable paintwork, powerful roller tensioners, cool design, classic metal logos, etc., make MATHEWS bows not just a powerful weapon, but also a work of technological art. , which is just nice to pick up after all the other angular-pompous, dirty-camouflaged "multi-humped camels".

If you don’t like one Switchback model, you can try its modifications, and there are a lot of them. They differ in just a few details. For example, McPherson himself describes the Risen-seven as follows (let alone my S2):

With this bow, you get the most comfortable compounding bow with a comfortable 7" brace height and the smoothest performance a Mathews compound bow has ever had. This is the best dynamic performance achieved by Mathews. Compound bow - the smoothest shooter! The new block with two peripheral weights operates quickly and quietly. Fast like an LX, smooth like an OutbackT: ...a killer combo! As a leader in vibration absorption devices, Mathews takes this compound bow one step further by incorporating two dampers into the slider retraction. The Mathews compound bow uses: New string highest quality. Branch with a slider on ball bearings System of mufflers of harmonic vibrations (dampers). Arch pockets. String holders. Linear stop (determines the center line, ergonomic). Complete set: hanging quiver, hunting regiment and sight, stabilizer, knitting.

Characteristics:
BRACKET HEIGHT: 7""
PULL LENGTH: 25
LENGTH FROM AXLE TO AXLE: 33
HANDLE LENGTH: 25 1/2
STRING/CABLE LENGTH: New ZebraR Barracuda String
BOW WEIGHT, POUND: 4.34 lbs
AMO MOUNTING SPEED, ft/sec: 241
IBO STANDARD MOUNTING SPEED, ft/sec: 318
PEAK LOAD, lbs: 40, 50, 60 lbs
RESET %: 80%, 65%
UNIT TYPE: StraightLine C1 Cam"

Buying a compound bow for hunting

It is not enough to choose the right model of a compound bow for hunting. You have to be very careful in choosing your seller. The bow is not a smoothbore weapon. The bow is assembled for a specific shooter, taking into account his personal strictly individual anatomical features. This is not for you to adjust the butt stock. Everything is completely different here, you can’t undermine anything here. And only a good implementer can competently do this. Judge for yourself. The length of the shooter's arms determines the stretch, and, accordingly, the length of the arrows. The strength of the shooter determines the strength of the draw of the bow, and, accordingly, the weight of the arrowheads. The length of the shooter's neck determines the choice of shelf for the arrow and the choice of scope. Features of the anatomy of the shooter's wrist determine the choice of release (a device for smooth descent of the bowstring), because it is almost impossible for hunters to shoot without a release, due to the necessary accuracy of hitting at long distances. The release allows you to release the bowstring just like in a firearm - with a trigger (with or without a handle, flexible design, or rigid, long or short). The structural features of the shooter's face and its stretching determine the choice of pip-site (the second aiming device after the sight, which is attached to the bowstring). It is almost impossible to shoot well from someone else's bow.

Therefore, the seller must be not only an experienced professional, but also an experienced practical hunter, and even be well equipped for pre-sale bow preparation. The store, at a minimum, must have a bow press for assembling it, a stand for placing sights on the bow and choosing the type of future shooting geometry with this attachment, an arrow trimming machine, a stand for plying plumage at the customer's choice, and so on. Moreover, after assembly, you should be given several lessons in block shooting so that your bow does not fly apart at the first empty bowstring, you do not cripple strangers, do not shine an arrow from half a kilometer into the window of a house on the outskirts, do not kill anyone with an arrow fired into the air (and an arrow - not a bullet - in this situation it will easily kill), they wouldn’t have recaptured left hand with a bowstring when fired, and indeed, they would hit something. And for this, the pins (sight lines) on the sight must be set in accordance with the now individual ballistic characteristics of your particular bow. Accordingly, the store should have its own archery range nearby, and a qualified master should conduct classes with you. Better "master of sports", and even better - "champion of Russia". The choice here, unfortunately, is small. Personally, I took my bows to INTERLOPER, which I don’t regret at all, especially since this is the only seller directly related to Russian Federation in archery. In this case, you will be selling and tuning the bow by a “Champion of Russia” and an experienced compound bow hunter, and in the shooting range you will meet more than one “multiple European champion” who will give you some individual advice. Our archer athletes are very fond of hunters, and they often notice that many hunters shoot no worse than themselves. Yes, and it will be interesting for you to look at those 4-5 people in Russia who shoot from classic bows (without any reset) at a distance of 100 meters and hit 10-centimeter targets with the whole beam from one quiver.

We buy attachments and accessories for a compound bow for hunting

I hasten to please you that the round sum in which the bow itself is estimated is only 50% of the complete set required for shooting from it. And here we are waiting for a whole bunch of mythologized questions. Archer-hunters are exactly the same thrashers as gunsmiths. Therefore, you will hear plenty of tales not only from colleagues, but also from sellers. Marketing has not been canceled either. The fact is that it is attachments (as in any business) that bring more dividends than new models of basic equipment. That's what sellers are trying to do. Let's try to save you some money, and at the same time significantly improve the result. Here, the most expensive is almost always not the most effective. Moreover, the choice of one detail inevitably influences the choice of another. Buying "all the best" means 100% ruining the result. Let's explain.

Arrows. Of course, Carbon Express. Why, you will understand below. However, it is impossible to choose an arrow without choosing a tip and plumage. The best plumage is the shortest, and the most expensive, oddly enough. The difference is about 10-15% speed. However, speed is needed only for a powerful fight, and you won’t go for a bear and a duck at first. In addition, at first you will successfully lose a dozen arrows, and it is better to look for an arrow with large and bright plumage (4”), and not with small (2”) and camouflage. At the start, I chose CX Edge 350 USA arrows - in terms of characteristics for an average beast, they are in no way inferior to the best, and at a price they are three times cheaper. Get more experienced - buy "Carbon-Express Mimetic" with a short 2" tail. It is three times more expensive, but faster and less noticeable, especially with a shako full of arrows (and it is always full before meeting the beast). Earlier than after a year of practice, you will not need TOP models. Significance and arrow speed are only important when your ability with a bow is close to professional. And for a good shooter, the distance and visibility of the arrow does not matter at all. So - a paradox - when you can need better arrows - then you simply won't need them. Well, except perhaps when hunting for a wolf from close range, or for something very exotic and protected, perhaps for cats. The beast must be fast and vigilant, and the distance is minimal. But such situations are few. If you are not a master of disguise and tracking, the beast will not detect you visually and not by arrows much earlier than coloring and 10% arrow speed will matter. The animal that may need TOP arrows will smell you at least a kilometer away, and their coloring will not help you much.

Moreover, you will not go hunting with the same arrows with which you practice shooting. Firstly, you will pretty much wrinkle the plumage of training arrows, and secondly, you will probably blunt their tips if you train not in a shooting range, but in nature. In any case, you will inevitably lose some of the arrows, no matter how well you shoot. Sometimes when shooting in nature at low targets (and I always use empty plastic bottles, which, alas, are full everywhere), the arrow very easily enters not just into the grass, but "under the skin", sometimes burrowing completely underground. Often, it is not the plumage that sticks out of the ground, but half of the arrow with the tip that came out after overcoming some underground section of the trajectory. Empty bottles are also good for training because after piercing they continue to travel with the arrow. At the very least, you should not go hunting if you cannot "lay down" three cans in a row with 25-30 meters with three arrows.

Tips. If you're tall enough, it's pointless to pick tips heavier than 125 grains from 29 feet. Someone to beat them. Dispel doubts - "sports" tips 17/64 Combo Points are very convenient to beat small animals, including foxes, and medium-sized birds, including pheasants. For the latter, take slightly weighted "sportsmen", and that's enough. Many "hunters" say - "but these tips fly crookedly", "and those ones fly crookedly", "but these ones fly straight". By the word "crooked" - "crossbow" tips with wide blades are meant, and by the word "straight" - "nail" with narrow blades. My friends, you do not have arrowheads flying crookedly, but arrows. You buy cheap arrows that dangle like boiled pasta in flight, and accordingly, any sailing tip will take it away when the arrow bends. Not the tip of the curve - don't buy bad arrows. For any animal larger than a fox, I use a Spitfire 85 3-Blade 3-PAK (three is enough, you should always carry an alternative at the ready). Moreover, all three blades of the Spitfire have a microscopic saw on each blade, so it goes much better than a knife into butter - it just flies through, breaking through the bones. There are alternatives, and this is a matter of taste. Hook shockers MK-F008/125 made in China were originally designed for fishing. Chinese-made shockers are much cheaper, but when buying them, you must certainly weigh them on electronic scales and pick up tips with the same weight. Purely practically, the “shocker” pierces through both fish and birds, and when shooting at a bird, it allows you to “hook” the plumage and does not rebound like a “sportsman” when it hits the plumage obliquely, which is especially beneficial when shooting capercaillie and black grouse. But shooting a hare with a “shocker” is unaesthetic - you will tear the object. The hole in a small animal should be one and neat. However, shooting at such a nimble and lightning-fast object as a wild pheasant, a flying duck, or a running hare without a shocker is problematic. Therefore, personally, I always carry three different types of tips of the same weight in my shako, and I select the arrow of the right type before shooting.

Shako. A shako (generally understood - a “quiver”, although this is not a quiver) must be taken as a regular one for this bow. "Regular" differ in the number of arrows placed in them. Non-standard tips cut the soft lining in the blade keeper, and the shockers crush it with their hooks, leaving dents and cuts forever. So either choose tips that match the slots, or get ready for some design to be ruined right away. An experienced shooter wears a shako for no more than 3 arrows. Those who like to shoot - 5 arrows. I personally consider a shako for 7 arrows for hunters to be generally inappropriate. And heavy, and interferes, and no one has fired so many arrows in one series at a real target. Unless you decide to drive pheasants and partridges in dense bushes and generously flavor it with carbon.

Stabilizer and knitting. This counterweight is necessary in order to prevent the bow from falling over after the shot, and also to dampen the inertia of the shot. The tie merges the bow with the brush, prevents the bow from tipping over, falling out of the hand, makes it easier to carry, allows you to shoot holding the bow only with your little finger (or not holding the bow at all (you can’t squeeze the handle when shooting). Moreover, a good stabilizer is poured into silicone in the shape of the handle, and in this configuration, it is convenient to carry the bow by the stabilizer, or even place it on the shoulder when moving in thick grass and undergrowth.Hands rest.Since the correct stance of the archer consists, among other things, in the element of virtual support on the bow, as when leaning on the hand on the protruding wall corner ( training exercise for block shooters), then the stabilizer and knitting serve to calmly hold the bow, when its weight is not kept from falling at all, but simply imprinted into the near third of the shooter's palm. The stabilizer and binding should be good enough and, above all, comfortable on the hand, matching the balance of the bow. When you stand “in the corner” to develop a grip on the handle, then you will understand how important the quality of the stabilizer is. I use Shock Stop Black from the same manufacturer as the bow.

Krag. Don’t put on a legging on your left hand once, and you will immediately understand why it was needed. That's exactly what happened to me. I put on a legging a hundred times (especially in the heat and in the forest, when sweat pours out from under it, or ants crawl under it), and I thought that only beginners needed it, but for the 101st time, tired of the march at 10 km, I took it off at a halt, and after 15 minutes, on the very first arrow, I realized what a bowstring strike on the left back of the forearm was like. The hand, tired from carrying the bow in readiness, and relaxed after resting, stood up during sudden shooting under the bow "inside out", for which it was immediately "bruised" by 10 cm when lowering the bowstring at a speed of 340 feet per second with a power of 60 pounds. A loud statement consolidated the success, and for 3 days I had to walk with a mark on my hand that did not decorate the archer at all. I immediately remembered my field part of the service, when we calculated the "dushmans" by bruises near the collarbone. Leggings need to be taken short and anatomically suitable for you personally. If it puffs up in the area of ​​​​the elbow bend, then you run the risk of getting a bowstring there. I use 3-Strap Armguard Mossy Oak from Tarantul. I would modify her straps.

Release. This is a trigger device, the importance of which is very great. When hunting, this thing will always hang on your right wrist. Therefore, the release should be no less comfortable than a watch strap and should not interfere with the use of a knife, or get tangled in branches. A rigid release with a metal body allows you to smoothly adjust its length and eliminates stretching, moving out, uncomfortable location of the trigger tail, it is always quickly groped “without looking” due to weight and size, which is very important before shooting at any suddenly noticed animal (and it always ). Hard release when wet and will not stretch over time. Handles in releases are not needed at all. They just get in the way. The straps stretch all the time and are very dreary to adjust. The verdict is: Cobra Mamba R1. Do not shorten the fastener immediately, because in winter you need to wear gloves on top of the release, and sometimes the sleeves of the jacket.

Shelf. This “launching pad” is supported by the front of the arrow. Oh, how many wonderful discoveries will be opened to you by sales managers and colleagues. Well, spit on all these tips easily and easily. 80% of "new developments" are a means of making a profit, and they are useless for hunting. They will successfully lie to you that the “bristle” shelves hold the arrow during any movement and in any position of the bow, and they will also advise split ones so that the arrow can be inserted from the side. But it shouldn’t be any - that’s the catch, it should be strictly vertical and in liquid level, and the arrow has nothing to do on the shelf until the shot itself, and the slot interferes with the uniform course of the plumage. I have not yet seen a master who could accurately shoot in any position of the bow. The stroke of the hand after the shot for different positions of the bow is different, which invariably affects the result. Moreover, - a shelf with bristles transmits to the arrow all the vibrations of the hand after the bowstring is lowered. This means that the bristly shelf not only reduces the speed of the arrow by 15%, but also significantly worsens the accuracy of the hit, superimposing all the vibrations of the bow itself on the arrow during its entire passage through the shelf. The best shelf is the missing shelf. These include “recessed” or “falling” shelves, which sharply go down when the bowstring is lowered. Thus, the arrow with its front part hangs in the air, as it were, without experiencing any friction of the bristles or vibrations of the bow frame. Its course is now affected only by the grip with the bowstring from behind. And if your tired or “nervous” hand “fell” after the shot, then the arrow will go only slightly lower (the bow falls forward and down, which means the bowstring goes up, respectively, the arrow itself, resting only on the back of the bowstring, pecks with the tip down) that at a boar at a distance of up to 30 meters, it doesn’t matter at all when aiming from behind under the shoulder blade or into the lung - well, you will get into the region of the heart, in extreme cases - into the peritoneum, which is also not bad, the result of a defeat with a three-bladed tip will differ little in lethality - a maximum of 30 seconds to full "stretching", and hardly more than 10 meters of "residual travel". In the worst case, hoist an animal that will not go far. With a fleecy or rubber shelf, due to “transmission” errors, you run the risk of sticking the arrow right in the middle of the indicated distance. My choice is the Quiktune 2000RG RH. The stock change is a complete rebalancing and reconfiguring of the bow, including changing the saddle for the release hook. So choose the shelf once.

Aim. The favorite accessory of all hunters, including archers. A good aim is a good shot. The sighting device in the block beam consists of two aiming points. The first point is the sight itself, the second is the pip-site, that is, such a device on the bowstring that acts as an aiming frame on the gun. In the bow, the opposite is true - the adjustment takes place at the front point, and the point on the bowstring is only limited-movable (it moves synchronously when the position of the sight itself changes). With a pip site, things are relatively simple. The hole size must be chosen to exactly include the rim of the main sight. The "elastic bands" on the peep site tend to break at the most inopportune moment, so you need to limit yourself to just a small ring of the right size, leaving the rubber bands to lovers of incomprehensible devices of dubious effectiveness. The sight itself should be chosen carefully. All “adaptations” with lenses tend to get littered and covered with drops, so it’s better to forget about them, otherwise by morning you will not only see a wild boar or a hare in this sight, but you won’t see anything point-blank at all. Multi-pin fluorescent sights with a light accumulator are the ideal choice. I am using Cobra DR Five 0.19 Pins. Not a cheap "toy", but worth the money. Such a sight can be safely leaned on the shoulder when carrying without fear of moving it, and in the dark, the luminous pins will be clearly visible in any situation. They are very good for aiming at any distance.

Attaching and adjusting the equipment yourself is quite difficult, but for those who wish, you can read all this in a short guide to compound bow shooting, published earlier, and you can download the original Mathews documentation from the links below. Benefits of this kind are quite rare, so we are glad that we can help you with something.

If you are interested in purchasing a compound bow or crossbow, then I advise you to contact the Interloper crossbow center. You can view the full range of compound archery equipment on the INTERLOPER website.

With best wishes and see you soon, Andrey Shalygin

Original Mathews documentation: