Feeders for feeder

For a beginner, it is not clear why there are so many different feeders and what is better to buy for your needs.

Experienced amateurs have a lot of them in stock. Depending on the conditions of fishing, one or another feeder can be used in the equipment. As a rule, it is connected to the feeder equipment through a swivel with a carabiner, and it can be changed quickly.
The main parameters of feeders: weight and volume. But besides them, there are several other important characteristics that you need to know about.

The main rule when mastering the feeder: do not buy too much, so that later you do not lie around idle.

There is no need to repeat the experience of those anglers who bought different gear just in case, but did not use many of them. With each fishing, with experience, it will become clear what gear is running, and what you can do without.

What is the weight of the feeder for the river and for the lake?

In the current, the feeder should lie well on the bottom, and not jump on it. It is allowed to move slightly (1-2m) after casting, before it hits the uneven bottom. This is achieved the right choice the weight of the feeder and the use of the main line with the minimum allowable diameter.

For the river (current) feeders weighing 60 - 80g (weak current), 80-100-120g (strong), more than 120g (very strong current) are rarely used.

The most popular weight of feeders: 70, 80 and 100g - it is with them that you most often have to catch on rivers. Such a load is suitable for medium and moderately strong currents.

If you are going to fish with a feeder on the river, then in your arsenal there must be feeders weighing 60-100g. The current can be different, even in the same area. It may vary depending on the season, precipitation, open closed locks, etc.

At the same time, do not forget that to this weight you need to add 20-50g (depending on the volume of the feeder) of the weight of the bait. And at the same time, see if the feeder test is suitable for this total mass. Most rods can handle casting more than their nominal test weight of 20-30g or more without any problems. But this should not be practiced often, especially since working with an unacceptable test changes the action of the rod.

For standing water the weight of the feeders from 30g is suitable. Adding to this weight 20-30g per bait, we get the total mass that is comfortable to throw.

What form of feeder feeder is best?

Square and round are the main cross-sectional shapes of feeders. Triangular types have been out of use for a long time.

A few years ago it was believed that square feeders are better kept in the current. But time and practice have shown that there is not much difference between them and round ones.

For the river and lake, round and square ones are used, depending on the desire.
Round, cone-shaped, winged shapes float faster when reeled out. Pulling them up is easier and faster. In this case, the load on the coil is less.

Feeder volume

Understanding the importance of volume comes with time. The larger the feeder, the more bait can be placed in it.

You may need more or less bait:

• At the beginning of fishing, it is customary to quickly deliver a large amount of food to the fishing point. And then, in small batches of bait, “support” the point.
• AT cold water(less than 15 degrees) you need less food, and more in warm.
• Carp, bream, crucian - like to eat and require more food. Bleak, roach - less.
• On the course, on the river, you can feed a lot, without fear of overfeeding the fish. On a reservoir with stagnant water, bait needs less.

Therefore, in addition to weight and shape, it is better to have several different volumes in stock.

Rockets and bullets

Two names for the same feeder designs. Rocket feeders (bullets) have an offset sinker at the end. This design allows them to fly better, one and a half times further than round and square ones.

Missiles must be in reserve. It happens that you need to catch it at extremely long distances.

Often the fish are far from the shore. Throwing the feeder to the maximum distance is not easy. But if you put a rocket, then it is easier to make such throws and they turn out to be more accurate. Moreover, such a design sails less in the wind.

Closed or open?

Again, a few years ago there were many feeders with a cap on one end on the market. Fishermen-donochniks, saving bait, considered such a cover necessary. But for the feeder it is better to use open forms. Let the bait wash out freely, lure the fishing point. This is the essence of feeder fishing.

Are grouts needed?

Such processes on the sinker are intended for better retention at the bottom. In practice, this is not noticeable. If there are lugs, they will not interfere, if not, then you should not be upset, an ordinary smooth sinker is no worse.

Flat feeders

A special type of construction with a flat sinker and ribs for attaching bait. Used in flat feeder fishing. This is a slightly different type of fishing for standing water. It differs from the classics in the technique and tactics of feeding bait with a nozzle.

Video about the variety of feeder feeders

How and where to throw the feeder?

So, after reading a lot of recommendations, knitting and tying loops for rigging, tying leashes, buying tackle .... - Finally, the feeder is assembled and you can start fishing. But how to find a fishing spot? This will be discussed below.

How to throw a feeder?

For those who are not familiar with casting technique with a spinning reel, I bring a short educational program.

. We take the feeder with two hands. For a right-hander: left at the beginning of the rod, right at the level of the reel.
. Right index finger fix the braid pressing it to the rod (see photo).

. left hand open the arc of the line stacker.
. We take the rod back over the right shoulder, the feeder should hang down to 50 cm.
. Left hand while straightening.
. Smoothly accelerate, straightening the right arm and bending the left. When the feeder reaches the "2 o'clock" position, we increase the acceleration, so that in the vertical position of the feeder, the acceleration is maximum.
. We release the index finger from the cord. The feeder is flying.
. If the cord is fixed in the clip (also when using a bank elastic), then until the moment of fixation, we build the feeder in vertical position. So that at the moment of fixing the flexibility of the feeder absorbs the load on the cord.

Where to throw the feeder?

It is clear that for successful fishing, fish must be caught where it is. And for this you need to know the potential location of its location. These are, first of all, areas of the bottom with a difference in depths: the edge of the river, rifts, underwater boulders, pits. The task of the angler is to “probe” the bottom and find promising places for fishing. Moreover, you can successfully do this without an echo sounder, standing on the shore at one point. Let's see how to do it.
Probably, many people know the “jig” wiring, in which the winding alternates with the free fall of the load. We will use it to study the bottom.

We take a feeder and hook a weight on the tip of the cord for the feeder. For this purpose, a lead drop weight is better suited. We select a small weight, such that the load is not carried away by the current. We select the study area, remember the direction of the cast (for example, along the landmark on the opposite bank) and cast the weight.

As soon as we felt the impact of the sinker on the bottom, we begin to “walk” along the bottom: we make three turns of the reel handle - a pause, we count to ourselves the time until the load falls to the bottom, the next three turns - pause again, count again, hit, the next three turns - pause , count, hit, three turns, etc. The time the weight falls between our winding and touching the bottom, and gives us information about the bottom topography. If this time increases, then there is an increase in depth, if it decreases, then the depth becomes smaller.

Thus, by exploring different directions, one can find a suitable fishing area. But that's not all, you need to fix the casting distance at this place.

For example, by "jigging" we noticed bottom relief difference. We wind out the weight, while counting the revolutions of the coil. We got, for example, 25 revolutions. We throw the load again in the same direction. Again we carry out a jig winding. Again found the place of the drop. We pull out the tackle. Again 25 turns. So, we were not mistaken and a real bottom drop is already looming. In the same way, we will try to “feel” the bottom several times to the left and right of the place under study, etc.

So we begin to present a picture of what is happening at the bottom. For example, it becomes clear pit whether it is or edge.

After we have found a suitable place at the bottom and are planning to feed it, we throw the weight again, farther than the studied place. We find this difference again, stop winding, take a bank elastic and fix the braid on the spool. To do this, we make three, four turns around the spool with an elastic band and fix it in the clip.

Never fix the braid in the clip! With an excessively strong cast, it may simply not withstand the load. And the bank elastic absorbs the tension of the cord well.
We wind out the weight, at the same time, we should get the same revolutions of the coil handle (in our example, 25), and we hook the equipment.

Now we know the direction (landmark on the shore) and we have a fixed casting distance. You can throw a feeder not only in the same place, but also in a potentially catchy place!

Believe me, it's better to spend even an hour exploring the bottom, and fishing in a potential fishing spot, than throwing at random and thinking: “am I fishing there?”.

Do the first few casts without a hook, just with a feeder stuffed with a crumbly mixture. For example, 4-7 casts, every 20 seconds. Of course, such frequent casts can also frighten the fish, especially since the fish have good hearing. But if fishing comes from 20 meters from the shore, and even at a good depth, then the fish feel quite confident there. And the pleasant smell of our bait will make even shy fish come up. After these casts hook the baited hook and cast at your normal pace (every 8-15 minutes on average). So it is possible to quickly create a "cloud" of bait at the bottom, and attract fish.

When fixing the bank gum in the clip, it is impossible to remove the excess braid. This can play badly when catching a large specimen, when the work of the friction clutch is simply necessary. In this case, you will need to hook the gum and tear it. Then you can work the friction clutch as usual.

For those who like to watch and listen more than read, I suggest watching a small film about the basics of feeder fishing:

Selection and winding of the cord for the feeder

In this article, we will not touch on the rhetorical question “what to choose a cord or fishing line? ”, and let's move on to buying and winding a cord for fidear. If you use fishing line, then the winding will be similar.

So, what is the feeder cord?

Market and shops big choice cord (braid) of various sections and colors. But let's think about what kind of fish the feederist is counting on. Of course, each of us wants to catch our giant, and of course we will achieve this, but when fishing on a feeder, the main part of the catch is bream, bream, small carp, roach, silver bream, rudd, crucian carp, blue bream, which rarely come across weighing more than one, two, three kilograms. Larger carp are mainly found in fish farms, but for him the method of catching is different. And for our trophies, a sufficient diameter of the cord will be 0.08 - 0.14mm.

The smaller diameter of the line allows you to cast further, it is weakly affected by the side wind and the tackle is less carried away by the current. But it is easily cut by shells, with which the edges and rifts are so richly dotted, where exactly the fish loves to feed. So a diameter of 0.12 - 0.14 will be optimal.

As for the color, it is a matter of taste here, someone prefers the cord to be as disguised as the water surface, someone chooses it brighter in order to see it well when winding it up.

There are many manufacturers of cords, recommending a particular brand is a thankless task. In our market, often the same cord, depending on the batch, can be completely different in quality. So it is better to buy in trusted stores and the product of well-known brands.

So the cord is bought, now we will wind it on the selected coil. The cord must be wound almost to the edge, stepping back only 1.5-2 mm.

If you wind the cord up to the very side of the spool, then when casting, the loops will be reset, and, accordingly, the thread will become tangled.

The purchased cord can be both 100 meters and 150, and for example 200 meters fit on the spool. How to calculate the required 1-2 mm to the edge of the boot? To do this, we need a spare spool that came with the reel. Having a similar capacity, it will help us to finish the required amount of inexpensive fishing line (for example, 0.2 in diameter) or nylon thread.

Many anglers, instead of refinishing the line, wind several layers of electrical tape onto the spool, thereby increasing its diameter. But this should not be done, because in the heat, the melted glue from the insulation will fall on the braid, and this will lead to its complete replacement.

So, we install a spare plastic spool on the reel and mount it on the lower knee of the rod. We pass the cord through a single ring, and tie it to the spool. It is better to lower the coil with the cord into the water, because the soft cord will lie more tightly and give the necessary winding accuracy. With one hand we rotate the reel, winding the line, and with the other we press the line to the rod, creating the necessary tension and winding density. After the thread is wound, if the distance to the edges of the spool is greater than necessary, then we finish the line. You can take any, it will not participate in the fishing process.

The line and cord must be spliced ​​together. A node like this might work for this:

After that, we wind the fishing line, not forgetting to create tension when winding. There should be a distance of about 1.5-2 mm to the edge of the side.

We remove this spool and lower it into the water, put a metal one, fasten the fishing line behind it and rewind the sharpened fishing line and cord in the reverse order. Do not forget to create tension when winding! Alternatively, you can pass the cord or fishing line between the pages of the book, while pinching it with your knees.

Hooks and leashes for feeder fishing

For fishing on the feeder, hooks No. 10 - No. 18 are mainly used according to the international numbering system. Larger and smaller hooks rarely have to be used.

Choosing the size and shape of the hook depends on the conditions of fishing, the type and size of the fish, the type and size of the bait.

The more passive the bite, the more picky the fish are, and we need to make our rig even more inconspicuous. And you have to put a thinner leash, and a smaller hook. But with a decrease in the hook, the possibility of a fish getting off also increases.

And what more fish, the less picky about the size of the hook.

The hook must be perfectly sharp. A good hook easily pierces a maggot, or scratches a nail. If there is a suspicion of loss of sharpness, it is better to replace the hook, because a blunt sting is an empty bite.

Hooks must be made of high quality properly hardened wire. The thickness of the wire is different. On thin hooks, the worm, maggot, bloodworm remain alive for a long time, attracting fish. But a thin wire easily cuts the lip of the fish, which leads to gatherings. This is especially noticeable with long casts. Therefore, choose the average thickness of the hook, and preferably thicker.

Popular hooks from manufacturers such as Gamakatsu, Owner, Kamasan, Trabucco, Hayabusa.

There are also counterfeits on the market. famous brands, so buy hooks in good stores that value their reputation.

Leads for feeder

Breaks and loss of hooks and feeders for the feeder, when fishing on the feeder, the most common thing. So the leashes will need to be knitted a lot and different.
For leashes, a high-quality monofilament with a diameter of 0.12 to 0.18 is usually used.

Diameter selected depending on the size of the fish you are targeting. If it is a roach, a silver bream, a ram, then a diameter of 0.12-0.14 is enough. It is quite difficult to find a quality fishing line of a smaller diameter on sale. If the object of fishing is underbream, bream, large carp then a diameter of 0.16-0.18 is optimal. On sale there are special leash fishing lines of different companies with windings of 20 - 25 meters. They are usually best quality than a similar fishing line in large windings.

Pick up a soft fishing line, no memory, with a good breaking load at the smallest diameter.

Many anglers prefer fluorocarbon fishing line as a leash.

Its main advantage over regular fishing line this is invisibility under water and resistance to abrasion, which is important when fishing on edges dotted with shells. Well, the disadvantage is rigidity, a relatively small breaking load and a higher price.

Average lead length for feeder fishing from 30 to 60 centimeters. And there is such a rule - the weaker the bite, the thinner and longer the leash is placed .

So its length can reach one meter.

Before going fishing, it is advisable to tie in advance several types of leashes(a better couple tens) with different lengths, diameters and different hooks. This will save valuable fishing time and will allow you to quickly adapt to the fishing conditions. It is convenient to store leashes in a special leash holder.

see also detailed video about choosing a leash line:

Feeder equipment

So, after choosing a reel for the feeder, let's move on to the "heart" of feeder fishing - to the equipment.

Probably you have heard the terms more than once: asymmetrical loop, asymmetric loop, paternoster. These are the names of various equipment for the feeder. So what should we choose from this?

The requirements will be simple:

• the minimum possibility of tangling the leash around the equipment and the cord when casting or when playing the fish.
• lack of bulky elements and ease of manufacture;
• bite sensitivity;

Mounting with anti-twist tubes

Well, experienced feederists do not like these tubes and that's it. Such an opinion may develop after reading articles on this topic. And it certainly has its justification. But for beginner anglers who may find other rigs too complicated, we can recommend using anti-twist tubes as an easy and quick way to get into feeder fishing.

Some models even provide for the installation of two hooks. It is understandable. A fisherman who has been fishing for a long time bottom tackle, knows very well what no bite is, and the more baited hooks, the more likely it is to catch at least something. But feeder rigs were just invented to enhance this bite at times! Fishermen, even fish inspectors, often come up to me and wonder: why do you have one hook? But believe me, with the right feeding and choosing a bite point, you won’t be bored, bites will go one by one, literally a few seconds after casting. Usually 3-4 hours after feeding, the catch rate is reached. So why two hooks? Or even three? They will only interfere with each other and get confused. And if the bite is weak or absent, then it is better not to add hooks, but to look for new places for fishing, experiment with bait, with bait and you will definitely find your fish.

The main advantage of the anti-twist is the ease of installation, which is really important for a novice angler. Thread a cord through it, install locking beads on both sides, a swivel with a carabiner is attached on one side, and just a loop for attaching a hook on the other. That's all. When biting, the cord slides freely through the anti-twist, signaling a bite.

Video about equipment with anti-twist tube:

But still, experienced feeders do not like these "rocker arms". And there is a reason. The sensitivity of the gear when using these tubes is minimal; on a muddy bottom, dirt gets into the anti-twist, which leads to clogging and the line getting stuck. Flight performance when casting the feeder is reduced. It has been repeatedly noted that with a careful bite, the fish took the bait with an anti-twist much more reluctantly than when using other rigs.

Simple and sensitive equipment - paternoster

Probably the most popular tool. We have already devoted a whole detailed one, where we carefully examined its advantages and disadvantages. For a while I was skeptical about it just because of its simplicity. But after much experimentation, I came to the conclusion that, although it is slightly inferior in sensitivity to an asymmetric loop, due to the minimum manufacturing time, it deserves to take its place among the favorite mounting methods.

I often fish with two feeders, one with an asymmetric loop, the other with a paternoster. The difference in sensitivity is practically not noticeable. Yes, asymmetry responds better to even the slightest movement of the feeder, or to the sipping of a worm by a fish, but is this sensitivity always necessary? In any case, the choice is yours, but knowing what a paternoster is and how to knit it will not be superfluous. It knits in a couple of minutes and is quite capable of replacing a broken loop.

We knit paternoster

Consider the two main types of paternoster.

1. Paternoster Gartner (on two loops)

We knit paternoster directly on the main braid. And you can do it at home too. Since there are no auxiliary parts on it, it will easily pass through even the smallest ring at the tip of the feeder.

At the tip of the main braid we make a loop for attaching a leash with a hook to it. At the same time, we make three or four turns, moisten and tighten the knot well.

We retreat from the connected loop a distance of 15 centimeters. And we knit a larger loop in a similar way, 5-8 centimeters long. It should be such that a feeder crawls through it.

When fishing, we pass the resulting paternoster through the feeder rings. We pass a large loop through the ring of the swivel on the feeder. We pull out this ring and pass the feeder through it. When tightening the loop, try so that the tightening is not at one point, but is distributed over the swivel (see photo). This makes it easy to change the feeder without breaking the loop. Or we use a latch, with which it will also not be difficult to change the feeder.

Loop into a loop, fasten the leash with a hook to a small loop.

And the paternoster is ready. See also video

2. Paternoster (blank rig).

We measure the loop about 10 centimeters, make a knot in three or four turns, moisten and tighten well. We cut in the middle. At one end we make a small loop for the hook, and we tie the other to the feeder.

After fishing, it should be cut off and tied new.

Asymmetrical (asymmetrical) loop

This is probably the most popular equipment for the feeder. Its main advantage is sensitivity. And the disadvantage is the tendency to tangle when casting, especially with a leash longer than 40 centimeters.

If, with an active bite, I once again throw this tackle, and there are no bites, then the overlap again. I pull it out - for sure!

For this equipment, it is important to choose a rigid fishing line with a diameter of 0.3-0.45. An asymmetrical loop consists of two parts: a twist with a loop for a hook and an asymmetrical loop itself.

1. We take two meters of fishing line and fold it in half. We measure 1.5-2 centimeters, and make a loop for the hook.
2. A twisting method that everyone can do: we fix the loop for some object, and tightly twist the fishing line 10-15 cm long. We tighten the double knot at the end. It should turn out such a layering.
3. On the remaining fishing line, we measure an asymmetrical loop with sides of 60-70 cm by 40-50 cm. Through the large side we pass a carabiner for attaching the feeder. And tighten the double knot.

In this rig, the feeder slides freely along the loop, which gives maximum sensitivity to the tackle. When casting, the twist takes the hook to the side, preventing it from overflowing the loop.

Watch the video of the non-symmetrical loop

After fishing, it should be cut off and a new one tied.

In today's article, we will consider what kind of feeder feeders are, what material they are made of, their shapes, conditions of use. The main purpose of the feeder is to deliver food to the point of fishing. There are a variety of feeders, and depending on the reservoir and conditions, we will use one or another feeder for fishing. Also, do not forget that in addition to the delivery of bait, the feeder plays the role of a load and it is important that its total weight with bait be 20 percent less than the upper limit .

Depending on the type of bait used, all feeders can be divided into three types:

• Mesh feeders (cage) - designed for the use of loose bait.
• Open-type feeders (method and flat feeders) - a viscous bait is used, which should not fall apart when it hits the water.
• Feeders designed to deliver live food (cork feeders).

Depending on the material, they are metal and plastic.

Feeders made of metal mesh

According to their form, they can be divided into:

The advantage of these fishing feeders is that the metal mesh cuts the water perfectly, they resist the current better than plastic ones and reach the bottom faster. A big plus when you don't want to attract small things from the water column.

When wondering which feeders for a feeder you should have in your arsenal, I would like to note the feeders of the company brain. These feeders have a flat bottom, on which the load is concentrated, while its main mass is brought to the side opposite from the loop. As a result, when entering the water, the feeder does not create cotton, which is a definite plus when fishing in shallow waters.

The disadvantage of metal feeders is that they do not float well, this disadvantage is fully felt when fishing on deep edges and in places densely overgrown with algae.

When choosing a feeder in the store, you need to pay attention to the junctions of the gratings so that there are no notches and sharp edges.

Also, mesh feeders can have a plug, you will need it when fishing in a strong current, and also when you use live food along with bait.

The British, who are ahead of the rest in terms of feeder gear, have developed a special feeder gear Shotgun, its essence lies in the fact that when this feeder touches the bottom, a special piston pushes the bait out of it. Such a fishing feeder is not cheap, and has not yet reached us. But I hope, soon, will appear on our shelves.

Plastic feeders for fishing

As a rule, they are cylindrical with wings and without.

Better than metal ones they are suitable for fishing in stagnant waters, and their advantages include the fact that you can put more food in them than in metal ones, with the same weight. This is a direct plus when, in order to maintain a normal bite, the fish must be intensively fed. They float well, especially if the feeders have wings, and are especially effective in places with a cluttered bottom. Feeder feeders with wings work well on muddy ground, as the wings create an additional plane and prevent it from getting stuck in it.

The disadvantage of plastic feeder feeders is that they have a high resistance to water, which is why they are not recommended for use in the current, especially feeders with wings, because due to their presence they sink to the bottom even more slowly, often anglers cut them off.

When choosing plastic feeders, you should pay attention to the load at the base, if it is rectangular and strongly convex, it will create additional wind resistance when casting, which will reduce the casting distance. Here, for example, at the feeders Feeder Sport the load is quite flat with rounded edges, allowing you to throw tackle over longer distances.

Grouser feeders

Designed for fishing in intense currents, they are made of metal mesh, they are rectangular and cylindrical in shape on a flat base.
These feeders for the feeder are better kept on the bottom due to the presence of spikes on the load. In order to reduce wind resistance during flight, it is desirable to use an arched weight.

Feeder feeders for long-distance casting bullets

Very often in the canopy we have to fish at the maximum distance from the shore. In this case, we use bullet feeders. They are cylindrical or conical in shape. They can be either metal or plastic.

Shipment is of two types: the first - the weight is located at a distance from the front edge of the feeder, the second - the load is soldered into the feeder mesh itself.

These feeder feeders for fishing have minimal wind resistance, and the location of the main weight on the bow improves the aerodynamic characteristics of the feeder, so that it can be thrown at a distance of about 80-100 m even in the presence of wind. Also, these feeders enter the water, practically without making too much noise, and due to the fact that the load is not dissected along the plane, they float well.

Feeders

As a rule, before the start of fishing, a starting feed is made, for these purposes it is better to use feeders. Feeding troughs can be either plastic or metal (feed comes out faster from metal).
They have larger size than conventional feeders, in order to supply as much feed as possible in fewer casts, for the same reasons feeder feeders do not have a load or it is very small.

Feeder feeders for open type fishing

These feeders are designed for fishing in stagnant waters and weak currents.

Flat method feeders

The bait is hammered into this feeder with the help of pressing and is kept due to the presence of plastic arcs. The basis of this feeder is a flat load. Pressing of bait is carried out with the help of hands or a special mold (mould). Moreover, feeders can be various shapes and size, so the pasochka must be selected directly under the feeder. As a rule, using mold, the baited hook is pressed into the bait itself. The flat method is a more modern version of the pacifier. Thanks to its flat and wide base, it works well in muddy waters, and it can also be caught in a weak current. When using method feeders, it is important to consider that the weight of the bait used will equal or even exceed the weight of your feeder.

When choosing a flat method feeder for a feeder, you need to pay attention to the ribs, they can be located on the sides of the coil or be spaced apart, the size of the nozzle that you can use depends on the distance between the ribs of the feeder, so if the distance between the ribs is small you will not be able to insert a hook with a 20 mm bait, and at the same time, if you use feeders sharpened for wide baits and decide to use a small bait, then after casting and the feeder gets into the water, part of the bait will fall out and your bait will most likely fall out.

Drop-shaped feeders have the best flight characteristics due to the center of gravity shifted to the edge, although there are also classic flats with additional cargo. The downside of these feeders is that when they fall into the water, they are stronger than a simple classic flat, they go into it with their noses.

For fishing in shallow but heavily silted reservoirs, you need to choose flats that have a wide base and light weight.

Casting distance:

Feeders weighing up to 25-30 grams are used at picker distances;

Feeders weighing 40-80 grams - fishing at a distance of 40 to 80 meters;

Feeders weighing 100-120 grams for punching strong winds and fishing at maximum distances of 100 meters or more.

Inside the flat method feeders there is an axial hole for the slider.

In carp fishing, we need a lot of food, so special frame feeders, which are a base with longitudinal ribs, can also be used here.

As bait for method feeders, various cereals, plasticines with flavors are used (meaning the degree of viscosity of the bait), you can also buy specialized bait in the store.

Spring feeders

They were actively used by our anglers even before we had feeder equipment. This feeder consists of: a spring or coil, a plastic tube and a weight, which can be positioned both on plastic tube, as well as on the axes.
The tube is hollow inside, or a cord can be passed through it. It is these feeders connected in series in the amount of three pieces that are the classic “crucian killer” tackle. The name speaks for itself.

Feeders for animal feed

Often in the process of fishing, we need to supplement the place of catching with animal food (both pure and as part of bait), cork feeders are used for these purposes. They are made of plastic. There are small holes on the surface of the feeder through which the feed is washed out.

Cork feeders for fishing are

• Closed
• semi-closed
• open

And now let's figure out which feeders for the feeder, when they are used. Closed, equipped with two plugs, semi-closed have one blind or removable plug. They are used for fishing in medium and strong currents. Open feeders do not have end caps and are designed for feeding in stagnant water bodies and in weak currents.

Which feeders for the feeder should be depending on the weight

The first rule for choosing a feeder by weight is “you should use the lightest feeders that are suitable for the given fishing conditions and the equipment you have”. The most common feeders for stagnant ponds are 20-30 g, here the weight of the feeder will depend only on the casting distance. For a weak current, feeders weighing up to 40 g are used, on rivers with an average current up to 60 g, with a strong one from 60 g and above. The weight of the feeder feeder for fishing also depends on the depth of fishing and the strength of the wind, since a feeder that is too light will sink for a long time and be blown away by the wind in flight. Also, the line will sail in the wind, dragging a light feeder along the bottom.

When you use a quiver tip for bite signaling, your feeder should not slide along the bottom, straightening its sensitive tip. If you cast the tackle and the feeder clearly does not lie on the bottom, then put a heavier one, it is advisable to have an arsenal of feeders with a difference in weight of 5 grams, this will give you the opportunity to choose the feeder with the highest quality for fishing conditions.

Video what feeders for feeder are used by anglers

I hope after today's review you have no questions left about what feeders for the feeder exist and how to use them depending on the reservoir.

The presence of a feeder in the rig actually gave the name to the English bottom rod, since the word "feeder" is translated as "feeder"! Therefore, it is not surprising that the effectiveness of fishing depends on the functionality of this most important component of the feeder equipment. Yes, there are results! An improperly selected feeder can jeopardize the very ability to catch fish. So let's find out how to choose a feeder feeder?

Lyrical introduction

At the beginning of the development of the feeder, the author of these lines had the imprudence to trust one of the "experts" of the Kyiv bazaar "Bukhara", where you can still buy anything in terms of fishing. So, the seller “vaporized” a picker rod with all the equipment and a spring feeder, assuring that it the best option for the Dnieper. The next day, the “spring” with bait flew into the water and immediately, carried by the Dnieper jet, collected the gear of the fishermen standing downstream ... It turned out that the 30-gram feeder was completely unsuitable for the current. Therefore, the first lesson that your obedient servant learned from all this is that the weight of the feeder must correspond to the conditions of fishing. On the river, 60 g may be enough, and sometimes 150 grams are blown away. In calm water, 20-40 g is usually enough. It is also important that you first need to choose a rod for specific conditions, and then buy a feeder for the feeder.

Choosing a feeder for ponds without a current

There are many forms and varieties of structures that affect the efficiency of bait supply, casting distance and ease of use in certain conditions. So, for calm water, the following types of feeders are best suited:

• "Springs" or "Spirals"– affordable and effective solutions for fishing in ponds, bays, lakes with pickers and light rods. The design is based on a spiral "body" with a central rod-tube and a sinker attached at the back. The advantages of "springs" are in the simplicity of equipment, the aerodynamics of the shape, which allows you to cast far, in the fast return of feed and the sensitivity of the equipment. Since the feeder is sliding, bite information is instantly transmitted to the quiver tip.

• "Kegs" made of metal mesh- classic options for effective fishing in ponds without a current. Moreover, depending on the conditions, they can be either open (without plugs) or semi-open (removable plug on one side). They are distinguished by excellent aerodynamic properties, very convenient in terms of filling with food, they hold loose bait well, delivering them to the fishing point. In addition, they can be used in classic feeder installations, fastened to an anti-twist tube, etc.

• Round models made of plastic have all the functional features of metal mesh feeders. In addition to everything, they are usually equipped with small longitudinal planes, therefore, during the reeling, they quickly break away from the bottom and soar into the water floor, bypassing bottom obstacles in the form of vegetation, shells, stones and just various rubbish. They can be equipped with a removable plug for a longer washing out of the feed.

• Method feeders- these are “nipples” and “spoons” improved, again by English fishermen-athletes, only the bait is held not by wire, but by longitudinal or transverse planes. Method feeders are divided into two types: flat (flat weight and transverse ribs) and triangular (longitudinal ribs). They are served with pressed bait to an already fed point and look like a big ball of food, which the fish begins to dig and suck until it comes across a hook with an even more attractive bait.

All of the above feeders are ineffective in rivers, since the round shape will not allow them to resist the flow and stay in a baited place. Method models are carried even more by the current, washing away open food before they reach the bottom.

Theoretical digression

The weight of each feeder is indicated on its sinker, but how do you know how much it weighs with bait. The most obvious, simple and accurate way is to weigh it on an electronic canter. If there are no scales, you can use the formulas to determine the volume:

• For rectangular - L x W x H;
• For triangular - L x W x H / 2;
• For round ones - 3.14 x D / 2 x D / 2.

If the result is multiplied by a factor of 1.2, we get the approximate weight of the bait. Adding it to the mass of the load, we determine whether the weight of the bait and the feeder fits into the test range of the feeder rod.

Feeder feeders for fishing on rivers

The flow requires from the feeder not only a heavy sinker, which it would not demolish, but also a certain design and shape. Unlike models with a round section, triangular, square and rectangular feeders perfectly keep the jet. Thanks to the fine mesh baskets, the food is gradually washed out, keeping the fish close to the rig for as long as possible.

In principle, the feeders of these forms also work in reservoirs where there is no current. But then it is necessary to select models with a large cell, so that the food dissolves more easily and attracts fish better.

For fishing in high jet conditions, lugs feeders are best suited. The sinkers of such models have large spikes at the bottom, with which they “cling” to the bottom and are held in one place.

Feeders for special purposes

In addition to the classic and method models, there are feeders designed for specific purposes. Depending on the weight, they can be used both in current and in calm water.

• "Bullets" for over long casts - made of metal mesh or plastic. The main difference is the location of the load not along the entire length along one of the sides, but at the end of the basket. This design allows you to make long and ultra-long casts even against the wind.

• Feeding models- designed for feeding fishing points and are characterized by increased feed capacity, equipped with small loads or not loaded at all. Their task is to deliver as much bait as possible to a given sector in order to attract fish as soon as possible. After creating a bait table, you can cast a standard feeder.

• Feeders for animal components- created for throwing worms, maggots, bloodworms. These are closed models with small holes so that the larvae or worms can gradually leave the feeder. One end is plugged, and the other is equipped with a lid for loading live bait. Of course, you can deliver animal components to the fishing point along with bait in classic feeders, but in this case, the larvae and worms will very quickly find themselves in the water and they will either be carried away by the current or eaten by a trifle. But special feeders are made in such a way that animal components leave the feeder for a long time.

Overview of feeders

The classic version of the "spring". The model is distinguished by the absence of a load and the presence of a central tube for mounting sliding equipment. It is perfect for fishing in shallow waters without a current, as well as as a bait feeder, since the model is able to instantly drop the bait. Simplicity of design and high quality production guarantees the durability and efficiency of the use of this model.

This model is perfect for calm waters and slow flowing rivers. The advantages lie in the presence of planes, which, with the first turns of the coil, raise the feeder into the middle and upper layers of the water. Therefore, the model is indispensable where there are a lot of shells, debris stones and other obstacles on the bottom, over which this model easily passes during the winding of tackle.

The universal model is perfect for both calm water (small weights) and flowing water (large weights). A feature of this model is a metal mesh with a large cell for effective washing out of bait and its rectangular cross section, which prevents rolling in the current. The plug keeps the feed on the jet. If necessary, it can be removed to increase the intensity of feeding.

An excellent option for catching carp on the feeder. The model has excellent flight qualities and is intended for long-distance casts. During winding, it quickly breaks away from the bottom and hovers above it due to the petal shape. Therefore, it is excellent for fishing in reservoirs with a barbed, rocky or overgrown bottom. Due to the high transverse ribs, the bait is well kept in the feeder.

Results in conclusion

By and large, if the weight of the feeder with bait falls within the test range of the rod, then it can already be safely cast without fear of breaking the blank. Another question is whether you can fish effectively. First you need to decide on the weight. For a flow, you will need a feeder of at least 60 g. If we are talking about a strong stream, then you will have to stock up on feeders of 90 g, 100 g, 120 g or more. In ponds, bays and lakes, a feeder weighing up to 40 g is enough. In calm water, the shape of the feeder is not decisive. But in the river it is better to catch on models with a rectangular or triangular section. Of course, if you are fishing both in current and in calm water, you need to have several pieces of feeders of different designs in order to always be ready for fishing. Long-range models will not be superfluous, and feeding options will certainly come in handy in order to quickly “set the table” and start catching fish. And remember, feeder - consumable, so at least a few pieces should be in your fishing bag on every fishing trip.

From right choice rigging largely depends on the success of fishing. This issue must be taken responsibly. One of the main elements is its feeder. They differ in a number of indicators. A special group includes feeders for a strong current. What this equipment is, its varieties, as well as the methods for making it with your own hands - all this will be discussed further.

general characteristics

The equipment of the feeder rod implies the mandatory use of a feeder. This follows from the name of the type of fishing itself. The word "feeder" in translation from of English language means "feeder".

This element of the rod delivers the bait to the required place of fishing. In this case, the feeder has a certain weight. Therefore, it also performs the function of loading. The feeder reaches the bottom and stays there, spraying nutrients around. It is important that it is not carried away by the current.

When fishing for fish, the feeder should not cling to the vegetation on the bottom and stones. Therefore, certain requirements are put forward for its weight and shape. There are feeders designed to freely spray the internal composition in the pond. Other designs, on the contrary, supply nutrients in small doses. The choice depends on the characteristics of fishing.

The weight

The feeder for fishing in the current should be heavy enough so that it is not carried away to the side. It should lie flat on the bottom. Too light feeders bounce along the course. Of course, you should not expect that in a strong current it will lie down tightly to the bottom. A displacement of 1-2 m is allowed. It rests against the unevenness of the bottom, fixing in one place. The weight of the feeders can be as follows:

• 60-80 g - for a weak current;
• 80-120 g - for a strong current;
• more than 120 g - for a very strong current.

The last of these options is rarely used. Such feeders are more suitable for fishing on mountain rivers. Most often, for medium and strong currents, feeders weighing 70, 80 or 100 g are purchased. experienced fishermen note that, going to the river, you need to have several feeders in your arsenal. They differ in weight and volume. it is possible to choose the best option for existing fishing conditions. Even in the same place, the current can change depending on the time of day or season.

Rod test

The equipment of the feeder rod is selected in accordance with the strength of the current. However, do not forget about the test of the form itself. This range is marked on the rod. These numbers indicate the maximum and minimum weight of the rig that can be used for this form. In this weight range, it is possible to produce the most accurate casts.

If the feeder weighs more than indicated on the test, this may lead to breakage of the rod while fishing. If the rig is too light, it will not allow you to cast it far enough.

To take into account the requirements of the test, you need to add another 20-50 g to the weight of the feeder itself. This takes into account the volume of its internal space. The larger the feeder, the more food will fit in it. It is allowed to exceed the upper threshold of the test by 20 g. Otherwise, the action of the rod may change. Fishing with such a blank can be inconvenient.

The form

Feeders may vary in shape. Existing varieties can be divided into two large groups. These are square and round designs. This figure is defined in the cross section of the product. Previously, triangular feeders were used. However, today they are almost completely gone from use.

It is also worth considering that earlier among the fishermen there was an opinion about greater stability in the course of square feeders. Today, many years of experience in the use of such gear has shown that there is not much difference. The choice depends on the preferences of the fisherman. On the course, fish are successfully caught with both types of feeders.

And over time, fishermen still come to the conclusion that round, cone feeders are a little better. They are easier to wind ashore, without creating additional load on the coil. They float faster when the line moves. This contributes to fewer hooks on the tackle for uneven bottoms or algae.

How to choose tackle?

When choosing the best feeder feeders for the current, you should take into account the recommendations of experts. They highlight some of the most efficient rigging configurations best suited to these conditions. These include:

• metal grids with a lead plate;
• semi-closed feeders;
• structures with spikes or hooks;
• semicircular feeders with a flat base.

It is worth noting that all of the listed types of structures designed for strong currents must be made of metal. Plastic products, even in the presence of dense, heavy bait, are not able to stay in one place in the pond. They will be carried away by the current, which reduces the effectiveness of fishing.

Metal feeders with lead plate

The ideal option for fishing on the course are products with a lead plate. The mesh for feeder feeders of this type is large. Most often it has the shape of a flattened cylinder. A lead plate is soldered to one of the sides of such a product. Its mass is at least 50 g.

The presented version of the equipment is attached to the main thread using a nylon leash. The bottom of such a feeder is covered with a perforated metal plate. Its top is open for the possibility of pouring bait inside.

Thanks to this design, the equipment is securely held at the bottom of the reservoir. The feeder quickly drops down after casting. The side to which the plate is attached weighs more. Therefore she is bottom feeder, which it is adjacent to the bottom.

This shape allows the bait to quickly leave the mesh container, spreading over the water. In the direction of the flow, a "path" of nutrients appears. They arouse the interest of the fish. The mixture is washed out of the container fairly quickly. This can be both an advantage and a disadvantage. At the beginning of fishing, this feature is an advantage of such feeders. However, some types of fish can quickly get fed up, ceasing to show interest in the bait.

Semi-closed structures

Feeders for strong currents can have a semi-closed design. This significantly slows down the rate of leaching of the bait. This type of feeder is more suitable for catching bleak or roach. After intensive baiting of the place of fishing, you need to change the feeder to a semi-closed container.

The walls of this design are also made of large metal mesh. However, one side of it is closed with a plug (may be removable or non-removable). A piece of lead is also attached to the side. Due to the partially closed design, the windage of such gear increases. Therefore, it is worth choosing semi-closed type feeders that are heavier than conventional products with a metal mesh and a lead plate.

Studded structures

Strong current grouser feeders are very popular today. It can be either open or semi-closed design. It also includes a lead plate. However, its surface is distinguished by the presence of special spikes.

Due to the presence of lugs, such a feeder is firmly fixed at the bottom of the reservoir. Even a strong current is not able to carry it aside. However, the scope of the presented equipment is limited. It cannot fix well on the rocky bottom. Grousers perform their function only on a sandy or muddy bottom.

At the same time, in the reservoir where such a feeder is thrown, there should not be snags, dense vegetation. Otherwise, it will be difficult to get equipment from the reservoir. It remains at the bottom more often than other structures, breaking off the main fishing line or leash.

Semicircular feeder

Feeders for strong currents can be semi-circular. They are made of metal mesh. Also, similar structures can be made in the form of a spring. The bottom of such a feeder is flattened. A lead plate is attached here.

The weight of such equipment may vary. Typically, the weight of such a structure without bait varies between 45-50 g. This is a fairly small mass for a structure designed for flow. However, its good fixation at the bottom is achieved by an increased area of ​​the flattened base. The plate of such a feeder is flat. It can be quite heavy.

The hemisphere of the body creates resistance to the flow of water. This also has a positive effect on the strength of holding the course of the feeder in the current. At the same time, such structures are easier to get out of the river. They float faster when winding the line on the reel.

Homemade designs

Many fishermen prefer to create a strong current. It's quite an interesting process. To make one of the above designs, you will need to prepare suitable materials and tools. The first step is to prepare the lead. Its weight must be chosen in accordance with the strength of the current on the river.

The mesh can be made from the corresponding part of the car's oil filter. Also, for work you will need a thin stainless steel wire and cardboard. Lead is poured into a metal container. You should also prepare a container with sand.

A number of tools should also be prepared. You will need scissors for metal, self-tapping screws with wide hats (for metal). Also in the work you will need a screwdriver.

Since lead is a hazardous material for human health, it can only be smelted outdoors or in a very well ventilated area. Otherwise, you can be poisoned by the vapors of this metal.

When considering how to make a donkey with a feeder, you should consider a few tips from fishermen. To smelt lead, you need to take a small metal container. The base of the feeder can be made from a tin can. If desired, you can use an old metal or tin container.

To shape the feeder, you can use an ordinary matchbox. If its size does not fit, a form is created from cardboard. However, it is worth considering that its height should not exceed 1 cm. At the same time, the length and width of the form may be different.

At the preparatory stage, the presence of a sealed ring should be provided in the design. It is made from metal wire. A swivel and fishing line will cling to this ring. To do this, a piece of wire about 30 mm long is cut off. It is folded in half. One of the smaller sides of the cardboard box needs to be pierced with wire. Inside it, the "mustache" is straightened. After that, the cardboard form must be buried in the sand so that all its surfaces are covered with it.

Making a feeder

Having prepared everything you need, you can consider how to make a donkey with a feeder. Most often, the sinker is made of lead. However, you can take plates from a car battery. They need to be properly cleaned.

Lead must be melted in a prepared metal container. When it melts, the contents are poured into a cardboard box in the sand. The material must dry. This happens after a few minutes, you can get the finished plate. It is simply removed from the mold.

The body of this product is most often made of a material such as a car oil filter grille. The cylinder is cut lengthwise. Then a strip is cut from the grid. Its width is equal to the length of the lead billet. The length of the strip is usually made about 10 cm or a little more. When cutting the mesh with scissors for metal, you need to make sure that the edges are even. Otherwise, the fishing line will constantly break when fishing for fish. Next, the mesh is rolled into a cylinder. The round holes on both sides should line up.

Completion of installation

Considering how to make a feeder feeder, you should consider in detail the procedure for completing its installation. A self-tapping screw must be installed in the rolled mesh. With it, the body is screwed to the lead plate. If the self-tapping screw passes through the lead plate, its excess must be cut off with a hacksaw.

After that, the feeder can be put on tackle. If necessary, its bottom can be made deaf or perforated. The bottom can be plastic. Such a plug is screwed to the grid using stainless steel wire.

Having considered how to choose feeder feeders for strong currents, as well as how to create them yourself, you can equip your bottom gear correctly. On a strong current, the equipment will not be carried away to the side, which will increase the catchability of the feeder.

For fishing on the course - and has its own nuances. Mastering it is not difficult, but you need to remember some points.

The main thing - the choice of distance and point for fishing, as this is a decisive factor in fishing on fast-flowing rivers.

What is required to choose the right fishing spot with a feeder on a river? A number of tests need to be done.

We will talk about them below. For tests, you can use a marker rod or a classic feeder. It is important that there is a good braid. It will accurately convey all the irregularities of the bottom.

Determining the fishing distance

By repeated casting, bottom irregularities are determined and localized.

The relief of the bottom is transferred to the rod, “thumps”, as when fishing with a “jig”. When casting the bait far enough - about 70 meters - the bottom of the river should be fairly even and clayey. If, when pulling the sinker towards him, the fisherman feels hesitation, a kind of “blow” on the rod, it means that stones or other obstacles have met on the way.

After the optimal location for fishing with a feeder on the current localized, the number of turns of the rod reel is counted in order to determine the casting distance.

Knowing the number of turns of the coil, when the tackle breaks, it will be easy to throw the feeder feeder at the exact fishing distance. Fishing in the river should be on the border of stones and a flat place - where there is clay. If the marker weight does not stick at the bottom, then it is clay soil.

The depth of the fishing spot is another important parameter. Since it is difficult to determine the depth when pulling the sinker, when casting a distance, you can roughly calculate the depth by the number of turns of the rod reel until it touches the bottom of the river.

fishing technique

Fishing with a feeder on a river requires accurate casting and slow pulling.

Lure

For the delivery of bait, special ones are used for the current. For bait, the simplest goods from the nearest supermarket or market are used.

It is mixed in a large bowl. Harvested at one time 3-5 kg.

Components

Snap for the flow

The feeder on the river can be equipped in different ways over the course of time. For strong fish, a fishing line with a thickness of at least 0.14 mm should be used. The use of hook No. 14 is considered optimal and universal, which in sports topics considered large but reliable.

Rods for feeder fishing in strong currents are equipped with numerous options for sinkers, feeders, line reels.

An asymmetric loop is considered to be a universal installation of feeder fixtures for flow.

A flat feeder with a flat feeder is beginning to enjoy great popularity in Russian reservoirs. This method of fishing is applicable on reservoirs with a muddy or overgrown bottom. allows the feeder to fall clearly with the sinker down, and the food is a slide at the top. The fish finds food and bait, swallows it, moves it off the point and is hooked by the weight of the trough.

Feeder equipment with anti-twist

This feeder equipment is used when fishing on a feeder in a river for peaceful fish, such as:

• crucian carp;
• bream;
• roach;
• Amur;
• carp;
• carp.

Symmetrical and asymmetrical flow loops

Such installations are used when the bait needs to be pressed to the bottom as much as possible and at the same time get self-setting. Symmetrical and asymmetrical loops are knitted only on monofilaments. There were many attempts to tie rigs on braided line - nothing worked, they get confused.

You can fish on the main line and on the main mono line. It is allowed to knit the montage on the main line, or knit in advance and somehow fix it to the braided line. There are two ways to knit montages.

A symmetrical loop often saves on boggy silt.When knitting a symmetrical loop, you can use twisting. But often twisting is not used. For knitting, a triple straight knot is used. This forms a lead under the leash. A loop is knitted at the tip of the branch so that it is all straight and not puffed up, a branch is formed under the leash. A swivel is threaded, the fishing line is folded in half and a knot is knitted - a triple straight line.

All knots must be moistened to prevent burning of the fishing line. The protruding ends of the fishing line must be cut flush so that the equipment does not become entangled. It remains to fix the feeder and go. This rig is similar in its properties to a sliding rig. sports equipment without withdrawal, with the only difference being that the feeder is limited by a loop.

An asymmetric loop for mounting feeder equipment for fishing on the current is made right at the fishing spot. A small loop is knitted where the swivel with a leash will be attached. Then a twist is made, so, let's say, an “anti-twist”, about 20 turns of a “pigtail”, so that the leash does not get tangled in the feeder and everything above. The loop is made 15 centimeters long, or maybe 12, then the loop is knitted, the “pigtail” is fixed.

You will need a bead as a buffer so that the loop does not break, and a swivel to which the feeder will be attached. The main fishing line is shifted by 1 centimeter, so that there is a free movement of the feeder, and a loop is made. The loop should be more voluminous so as not to get confused. At this installation is ready, it remains to put the feeder.

This is the perfect montage for flow. In both cases of symmetrical and asymmetrical installation, a swivel with a special fastening should be used to easily change the feeder.

Rig with anti-twirl tubes for flow

• First of all, you will need the anti-twist itself. They are different - longer and shorter. The main fishing line is taken and threaded into the tube. At the opposite end of the tube, the fishing line can rest against a rubber plug. It needs to be removed. After that, the plug is put through the hole on the fishing line and returned back to the tube.
• The next step is to put a bead or stopper on the fishing line, after which a swivel is tied, preferably with a special hook for quick replacement of leashes. The swivel is tied behind the ear with a clinch knot. The bead is necessary to prevent interruption of the swivel assembly when the device is loaded with a feeder.
• After that, a leash 15–20 cm long is attached to the swivel, less than the main fishing line in thickness. This is necessary if, when fishing with a feeder in a current, the hook will catch on an insurmountable obstacle. In this case, the leash will break, and the main line will remain intact.

Other

Another type of installation when fishing on a feeder in a current is a paternoster. Its advantage is simple installation and low probability of tangling the fishing line of the leash.

Paternoster is knitted with a fishing line from 0.2 to 0.35 mm. Many people practice paternoster knitting on the main line. If the main line is braided, then the paternoster is made from a separate monofilament. In the manufacture of this installation, a swivel is put on the fishing line, 25–30 cm of fishing line is measured, and a paternoster loop is knitted on this segment.

The loop under the feeder can have a branch up to 15 cm, but it is usually made 5-10 cm long. On the formed branch - the antennae - a separate loop is knitted under the leash. After that, the paternoster is ready to go. It is enough to attach the feeder to the carabiner of the swivel, and on the other hand attach the leash.

Playing on the current

Fishing with a feeder in a strong current requires a more powerful rod, a heavier feeder and special fighting techniques in the current of the river. The main way of playing, for example, trophy bream is pumping out.

This is especially true when using braided fishing line as the main one. It is unacceptable to try to pull out the resisting big fish. A bream that has come out at a distance to the surface can easily get off the hook. Having taken a sip of air, such a fish begins to beat intensively in a panic, and interfere with a calm stretching ashore.

To prevent this, the fish is loosened and the fish is gently pulled up with a rod with a reel spool held by a finger. At the end of pulling up with a rod, a fishing line is selected with a reel, with a gradual lowering of the rod to the water. So several cycles are repeated - until the extraction of prey from the water.