Snowboarding off-piste. Freeride - snowboarding or skiing off the prepared slopes. Is it worth freeriding on your own or with a guide?

Freeride (English freeride) - snowboarding or skiing off the prepared slopes and, as a rule, outside the service area of ​​the ski industry. It is believed that it is when skiing on untouched snow that all the possibilities of snowboarding and skiing are most fully revealed. At the same time, freeride skiing promises a lot of dangers associated with unfamiliar terrain, such as the possibility of avalanches. According to a number of experts, beginners in snowboarding and skiing should not rush to go beyond the slopes in the mountains, for this they should already have certain skiing skills. In recent years, annual international competitions freeride among professionals and amateurs.


Lightweight freeride is the simplest and most popular type of off-piste skiing, the essence of which is to climb a mountain on a lift and then descend along an untouched slope outside of prepared tracks.


Backcountry - climbing mountains that are not equipped with lifts, with a further descent from them on virgin snow. The most common type of freeride, despite the difficulty of climbing to the top of the mountain to start.


Heli-skiing (heliboarding) - throwing skiers (snowboarders) to the top of the mountain using a helicopter. At the same time, this entertainment is expensive, and in some places on our planet heli-skiing is prohibited.


Snowcatskiing (snowketskiing) - throwing skiers (snowboarders) to the top of a mountain with the help of a snowcat - a snowcat with a passenger cabin. At the same time, this entertainment is less expensive than heli-skiing.

Snowmotoboarding - snowboarder riding on the principle of water skiing or wakeboarding, only a motorcycle or snowmobile is used instead of a boat, and snow is used instead of water.

  • Freeride (eng. freeride) - snowboarding or skiing off the prepared tracks and, as a rule, outside the service area of ​​the ski industry. It is believed that it is when skiing on untouched snow that all the possibilities of snowboarding and skiing are most fully revealed. At the same time, freeride skiing promises a lot of dangers associated with unfamiliar terrain, such as the possibility of avalanches. According to a number of experts, beginners in snowboarding and skiing should not rush to go beyond the slopes in the mountains, for this they should already have certain skiing skills. Over the past years, international freeride competitions among professionals and amateurs have been held annually.

Related concepts

Ropejumping (from the English ropejumping, literally "rope jumping") is jumping on climbing ropes from various high objects (rocks, multi-storey buildings, cranes, bridges, pipes, various towers). On the territory of the Russian Federation, the legal status is not defined. On the territory of Brazil, Latvia, Turkey and Ukraine, it has the status of a legal attraction.

Read more: Rope jumping

Motorcycle tourism (English motorcycle tourism, German motorrad-tourismus, French tourisme de moto) is one of the types of tourism in which a motorcycle serves as a means of transportation. The concept of "motorcycle tourism" is ambiguous and refers to one of the types active rest, as well as to the variety sports tourism.

Ski tourism is a type of sports tourism in Russia and the CIS, which is a sport. ski tourism is a type of tourism on means of transportation - on skis. Tourist skis are used to overcome natural obstacles.

Freeride (from the English free ride - free riding) is a style of cycling (as well as a discipline of cycling), which implies cycling along difficult, sometimes artificially constructed tracks that use natural and artificial obstacles. Successful movement on such routes requires special technical training and specially adapted bicycles (usually used Mountain bikes with a strong frame, large travel front and rear suspension...

Speleotourism - visiting caves for sports or educational purposes. A kind of sports tourism, the meaning is to travel through natural underground cavities (caves) and overcome various obstacles in them (siphons, wells) using various special equipment(scuba gear, carabiners, ropes, hooks, individual safety systems, etc.). The opening of new speleotourist routes is associated with the study of caves - speleology.

Skiboards - short skis from 75 cm to 110 cm, used in skiboarding for high-speed descent from snow-covered slopes and mountains.

Ski poles are sports equipment used by skiers, climbers, tourists to maintain balance, speed up movement when skiing.

Mountain tourism - a type of tourism, which consists in the movement of a group of people with the help of muscular strength along a certain route, laid in a mountainous area in high mountains.

Canyoning (eng. Canyoning or Canyoneering) - overcoming canyons without the help of floating facilities (boats, rafts, canoes, kayaks, etc.) using various techniques for overcoming complex water-rocky terrain: rock climbing, rappelling, jumping into the water, swimming.

Freeboard (English freebord) is a board for riding on asphalt, which has six wheels. The four wheels of the design are standard, as on a skateboard, but with a wider suspension. Two more wheels are in the center of the board. These additional wheels are mounted slightly lower than the main wheels and are free to rotate around a vertical axis. Due to this modification, the freeboard has the ability to turn over like a snowboard and rotate 360 ​​° or more, without taking the board off the ground...

Avalanche (German: Lawine, from late Latin labina - landslide) - a significant amount of snow mass falling or sliding down steep mountain slopes at a speed of about 20-30 m / s. An avalanche is often accompanied side effect in the form of an air pre-avalanche wave, which produces the greatest destruction.

The Annapurna Circuit Trek, also known as the Annapurna Ring, is a multi-day hiking trail in Nepal. The route passes through the Himalayas along the paths connecting settlements in the vicinity of the Annapurna mountain range. The length of the path, depending on the choice of starting and ending points, is from 140 to 220 km, the duration of the trip is from 10 to 20 days, the highest altitude reached is 5416 meters above sea level (Thorong-La pass).

A slope that mimics features using materials that are stable at room temperature, enabling people to ski, snowboard, or tub in areas where natural snowy slopes uncomfortable or unavailable. Rope Park or Taipark (from the English tie - knot, connection, rope) - a complex of attractions located at a height of more than two meters. Everyone who enters the Thai Park has the opportunity to feel like a climber, rock climber or just a smart person. Attractions are connected in a single logical chain with general conditions passing and are divided into three groups...

Snowboarding tutorial

How was this book written? Just like many other textbooks: the available literature and the Internet are shoveled, phrases are altered, commas are rearranged, a little bit is added from oneself. That's exactly what I did. Here is the result - the tutorial is in front of you. It is easy to read - it has a lot of pictures and few adverbial phrases.

To whom is it intended? To instructors and coaches, because it will allow them to say: “Fuck him in the oven! Listen only to me! ”, Which, of course, will increase their authority in the eyes of the trainees. It will be useful for top-class athletes, because it will allow you to remember the letters and pass the time when it's too late to ride, and it's too early to go to the bar. It will help intermediate riders to prove that they are doing everything right. He will convince those who learned to ride only yesterday, and therefore those who ride better than anyone else, that they can do everything and can perfectly do without him. And, of course, it is needed by those naive who sincerely believe that it is possible to learn to ride with a book in hand.

It turns out that this book is needed by almost everyone who is interested in snowboarding in one way or another. The reward for this interest will be the drawings of the wonderful artist Mikhail Lisovoy, with whom we have been at Moscow State Technical University for six years. Bauman drew tractors that looked like tanks and cars that looked like tractors.

I want to say right away that there is not much in this book: there are no jumps and off-piste skiing, because it is useless to teach this - you can only learn there are no mathematical calculations and physical terms, because they are tiring, there are no special words and expressions, because they are incomprehensible. This book is just an ABC with which you can try to take the first step on a snowboard.
Stetsenko Volodymyr

WHAT IS IT REALLY ABOUT?

Snowboard - snow board. However, in the era of widespread in-depth study in English with a guaranteed result, you will not surprise anyone with this. Another thing is surprising: how did this simple invention find so many admirers and master the minds of millions in two decades? Is it really so interesting that people leave everything and go to the mountains, chaining their legs there to this very snow board, and rushing along the slopes on it, every minute risking breaking their necks? Why? What for? Try it yourself and you will understand that the sensations you get from jumping, flying, and just snowboarding are incomparable. TV, alcohol, drugs - these glorified substitutes for a live high will never give you the delight experienced from the feeling that the next second of your life depends not on your boss or teacher, not on the mood of a girlfriend or friend, not on a bank account or its absence. , not from the power under the hood and the state of the brakes, but only from your brains and the reaction of your body. You see rocks and trees, snow rushing past at a terrible speed, fanning out from under the board its mark on a previously untouched slope, and you feel your blood boil from the abundantly injected adrenaline. Trust me, it's worth trying...

RIDING STYLES AND GEAR CHOICE

Before you start riding, you need to buy something on which it is done. One of the determining factors when choosing a board, boots and bindings is the style of riding you feel like. There are no uniform standards in the names of various styles, and many equipment manufacturers, who are becoming cramped in the previously outlined framework, invent their own terms, designed to attract the buyer with their novelty. Some of them become common, and some live only in the catalogs of their authors. Below are the most common terms grouped into groups. Due to lack unified classification this division can be considered rather conditional. FREESTYLE (Freestyle, FS) - jumps, spins, tricks, acrobatics. Skating not only on snow, but also on railings, roofs, stairs, etc. Technical freestyle– skiing in snowboard parks, performing tricks on specially built jumps and in the “half pipe” - HALFPIPE. FREERIDE (Freeride, FR) - the most popular and democratic style, which includes skiing on and off the slopes on any type of snow and terrain. ALL MOUNTAIN, FULLRIDE - universal style, freeride with freestyle elements - riding on tracks and unprepared slopes with jumps, flights and other tricks. BACK COUNTRY - climbing on foot, on a snowcat or by helicopter to wild peaks and descending from them to avoid trails, lifeguards and common sense. EXTREME - riding at high and ultra-high speeds wherever possible (and where not too). CARVING, FRIKARV (CARVING, Freecarve, FC) - skiing without slipping in clear cut arcs with constant board control. ALPINE - riding on a narrow, hard board, on the same hard tracks RACING – training and competition (slalom, downhill) on specially prepared tracks. BORDERCROSS(Boardercross, BX) - not a style, but competitive discipline, which unites all ways of riding. General start and descent along the track, consisting of sharp turns, mounds, jumps. Very spectacular and interesting.


All these clear and not very clear terms can be replaced with short notations: FS, FS/FR, FR, FR/FC, FC, BX. Most manufacturers and sellers of snowboard equipment do just that. Freestyle ( FS) requires good physical training defined mental abilities, considerable courage when making jumps and readiness for falls and injuries. Freestyle can not get bored, because the number of tricks is innumerable, and learning each of them is an exciting experience. The good thing is that it allows skiing on relatively short slopes, which is important in the conditions of megacities. For the same reason, it allows you to ski almost the entire season without expensive trips to big mountains. Adherents of this style without problems and for a very a short time master other styles, as good board and body control is the basis of freestyle. Freeride ( FR) implies complete freedom. I do what I want. I want to jump - I jump, I don’t want to - I sit in a cafe. I want - I roll on virgin soil, I don’t want - I cut arcs on the track. The absence of any rules and restrictions make this style the most attractive for most snowboarders. It implies jumps and flights, but allows you to do without them ... Of course, there is a huge difference between extreme people who spend ten months a year in the mountains and vacationers slowly descending along the “blue” track, but this is rather a difference in the level of skiing. And so - and that, and another - freeride. Carving ( FC) - high-speed skiing on hard boards and in hard boots, mainly on prepared tracks. Constant control and inability to relax. The most beautiful tracks from the board on the slope. Popular with ex-skiers, perhaps due to some similarities in equipment. Abroad, every tenth snowboarder is an adherent of this style, in Russia there is practically zero popularity, obviously due to the lack of normal tracks. Carving is quite complex, and it takes time to learn it.


FS/FR, FR/FC- a certain combination of styles that allows for both. Different riding styles require different equipment. If you buy a carving board, then it’s better to forget about jumps and spins - it’s very difficult to do this with a powerful and heavy board on your feet. And vice versa: a freestyle board will not allow you to accelerate properly on the slope, striving to wag to the side all the time, and the kickback to the legs from each tubercle will not add to the pleasure of riding. A freeride snowboard is more versatile, but any versatility is always a compromise. Of course, ideally, you need to have at least a couple of boards, but you still need to start with one. So, think carefully about what you like best, watch movies, look through magazines and go to the store.

HOW, WHERE AND WHAT TO BUY

Boards are different - blue, white, red ... And also wide and narrow, soft and hard, long and short, expensive and very expensive. Unfortunately, the boards are covered general rule commodity-money relations: good things don't come cheap, so you shouldn't expect to buy a super board for little money, although the opposite situation (junk for super money) is quite possible. How to choose? Of course, if you have a snowboarding buddy ready to help, grab him and drag him to the store using both a stick and a carrot. If there is no such friend, but there is another one who has a familiar seller in the store - this one will do - let him introduce you to this seller, and he, by acquaintance, will tell the truth about the goods on display. Finally, if you don't have anyone to help you, go to a store or market and rely on the honesty of sales consultants. In most cases, they will understand exactly what you need and give good advice, but for the sake of objectivity, go around several stores and listen to different sellers - it won’t hurt. Out of curiosity, ask to tell something about the boards of competitors - you will learn a lot of interesting things. Snowboarding is a fashionable hobby, and there are many more companies that produce equipment for it than those that specialize in the production of, for example, skis, and each of these companies annually throws several new models onto the market, some of which really carry new design features. and original solutions, but most differ from last year's only in color and name. There are two diametrically opposed approaches to the choice of equipment for the training period: the first is to buy what is worse and cheaper, and when any skills appear, change it all to something more decent; the second is to buy everything very good at once, because to learn how to ride a board it is possible, allegedly, in a few days and a cheap projectile will slow down your development. There is some truth in both options. It is not worth buying a very cheap board, especially a used one, “killed”, or so, because the learning process can really be very short, and in a week the board will no longer keep up with your achievements, and when you have something more worthwhile , you will have to relearn, since a bad board does not always do everything right. And if you immediately buy a good, expensive board, then, according to the law of meanness, your snowboard talents may turn out to be equal to zero, and after three or four days of “skating” on various parts own body you will gladly sell the object of your disappointment for any money that turns out to be two or three times less than what you paid when buying it. In addition, it’s a pity to “climb” a good board over stones, hit fences and supports, substitute it under other people’s edges, and it’s impossible to avoid this until you control the board, but, alas, it’s impossible for you. It's a pity, of course, for any board, but it's a pity for an expensive one. There is another argument against wasting money: boards designed for people with a good or very good level of riding, i.e., usually have a high price. the boards are not simple, but with character, and it is very, very difficult for a beginner to tame such a projectile.


Buy an “intermediate level” board to start with, or as the catalogs say: “for good riders, advanced riders of intermediate and above average levels” (or something like that, however, no one has seen boards for the level of “below average” anywhere ”). Most likely, it will last you two or three years. If your abilities turn out to be significantly above the “average level”, after a year you will change the board to another one, a class higher, with a relatively small loss of money. A separate conversation about buying used equipment. Easiest with boots. Boots - they are boots - the size really could not fit the previous owner and they are completely new, sent to the market. Used shoes are not worth buying unequivocally. It is more difficult with fasteners, they are changed less often, but everything is in plain sight and there can be practically no hidden defects. But with a board that was in use, you need to be very careful. On the one hand, you can buy a good board cheaply, albeit actively skated, but only for a season or two, since many experienced snowboarders change equipment with just such a frequency. On the other hand, you can run into hidden defects, skillfully disguised by repairs, or buy a completely “killed” board, the entire resource of which, which is three to five years of “normal” riding, was rolled out by a crazy seller in a season. If you decide to buy an old board - be vigilant! What immediately catches the eye are scratches on outside boards and on its sliding surface - sheer nonsense. The former can be ignored at all, while the latter, even deep ones, are easily repaired. Without giving money to the seller, arrange a check for the board: take it with a friend by the nose and tail, twist it with all your might, as if squeezing water, and hold for 10-15 seconds. If it starts to crackle - drop it and take the next one. If ten to fifteen seconds after you let it go, the board still retains the shape of the propeller - throw it and take the next one.


If swellings or breaks are visible on the planes, and traces of glue are visible on the side surface, drop it and take the next one. If traces of strong, transverse impacts are visible on the edges (there is nothing to even talk about cracks) - drop and take the next one. If the board is absolutely flat, without deflection in the middle part (see the picture on page 18) - throw it and take the next one. And when the boards in the market run out - go to the store. By the way, boards, boots, bindings are common goods and, like any other product, they are covered by the manufacturer's and seller's warranty, just feel free to remind the same sellers about this when buying and, at the same time, clarify the warranty. Very few people are able to choose a thing in which they understand nothing, therefore the most important thing in choosing a board (boots, bindings) is the choice of a consultant. If you decide to take full responsibility for this vital step on yourself - buy what you like: the color of your eyes, jacket, gloves or even an umbrella. After all, it's your board and, above all, you should like it.

SOFT AND HARD

All snowboarding equipment can be divided into “soft” and “hard” (further these terms will be used without quotation marks). Rigidity increases from FS to FR and from FR to FC. There are no specific stiffness criteria, except for some conventional units that allow you to compare equipment from one manufacturer within your own model range, but does not give any indication of the softness or stiffness of a particular board or boot compared to the boards or boots of competitors.


Learn more about steering the board in WHY IT RIDES AND HOW TO RIDE IT (Part 2) Snowboards that are at the extreme poles of softness-hardness differ from each other so much that it is just right to enroll them in different types sports and recreation. Is it possible to do on a soft board what is inherent in a hard one and vice versa? Unlikely…


The differences are already in the design of the board: a soft board is softer, which is understandable, wider, shorter and lighter. All this is necessary in order to jump, perform tricks and land as securely as possible. On a soft board, the legs are almost perpendicular to the board and fairly wide. This ensures high stability. On a hard board, the legs are at a large angle. You might think that this happens because the board is narrow, but in fact the opposite is true: the board is narrow because the legs are turned out. This is necessary in order to move the body from one side of the board to the other as quickly as possible, changing the direction of movement. On a soft snowboard, after a jump, you can land on the tail or on the nose, but due to the board's compliance, soften the landing and, without losing balance, stay on your feet. On a rigid board, this will not work - you will just stick into the snow. A soft board is lighter and therefore easier to perform various tricks on it. But on a hard board, you can accelerate to great speed, because it vibrates less and does not lose grip on the snow even on a bumpy slope. Performing carving turns (carving) on ​​a hard board is a pleasure, on a soft board it is annoying, because the board is pressed through at the most interesting moment and you find yourself in a “lying” position. Riding a hardboard in the woods can cause trouble for both you and the woods, because frequent short turns are not her forte. In virgin soil, both very soft and very hard boards behave equally badly. The former are pushed through in the middle and cannot pick up speed, while the latter are not pushed through at all and bury their noses. The exit is a freeride board. Due to the fact that soft boots and bindings allow some freedom of the legs, and the board itself is wider, it reacts to your actions somewhat slower than the rigid one and allows you to correct mistakes directly during these actions. This is impossible on a hard board - the reaction is instantaneous and mistakes are not forgiven, so it is better to learn on soft equipment. But these are all extreme poles. There are a huge number of snowboards that combine the advantages of both soft and hard equipment. Freeride boards have these properties, with which, perhaps, you should start training, unless, of course, you want to devote yourself to exclusively soft or, conversely, only hard discipline. The shorter and softer the board, the easier it is to learn on. Firstly, because such a board is more maneuverable, especially at low speeds, and they are unlikely to be large at the beginning of training; secondly, a soft board forgives mistakes, of which there will be plenty; thirdly, soft equipment is much more comfortable than hard. Many manufacturers make boards specifically for beginner snowboarders. They are relatively inexpensive, because they have a simple design and have low reliability. You can buy such a board if you are able to change them several times a season or if you strongly doubt whether you need a snowboard at all. In other words, you only want to try, for which, by the way, there are rentals. In all other cases, you need to buy a board of an average or above average level, because the training will pass quickly enough and the board low level very soon it will slow down your development.


You should be very careful when buying boards of the “top” level. Of course, it is very pleasant and prestigious to have such a board, but keep in mind that the more serious the board, the higher the requirements for its owner. If you can somehow agree with the “middle” board, then the “upper” model will take revenge for every mistake or even inaccuracy. Think about it, would you learn to ride by riding wild mustangs, or would you prefer a quieter horse? Let's say you have made a choice - the board of the company XXX “FS/FR for good riders”, what next? Start trying on the board for yourself. First of all, the length. There are many recommendations, such as: “a freeride board should be above the chin and below the nose.” All this is true, but in fact, the board should, first of all, correspond to your weight, not height. In the passport of any board or in the catalog of the manufacturer, you can always find the line “rider weight” - that’s what you need to focus on. Probably, it is not necessary to remind that a good seller has boards with passports and catalogs in place ...


If your height does not greatly correspond to your weight (a basketball player with the weight of a gymnast, for example), the board should be chosen a little longer, if the proportion is reversed, shorter. Another factor influencing the length of your future board is your temperament: if you are sure that you will ride energetically or even aggressively - take a board a little longer than recommended - it will be more interesting. In order to understand if the board is right for you in width, you need shoes. If you don't already have them, take any pair of your size from the store to try on. Place the boots on the board the way they should be (don't forget the angle of the bindings! See page 24) and see how far the toes and heels protrude from the edge of the board. If it is 1-1.5 cm - good if 2-2.5 cm - you may have problems making carved turns or when riding on steep slopes(protruding socks and heels will “scratch” in the snow) if your boots do not reach the same 2-2.5 cm to the edge of the board, it will be very difficult for you to control the board and you are unlikely to get pleasure from such riding. When defining. Whether the chosen board suits you in width, it should be borne in mind that a wide board behaves better on virgin soil, but worse on any other snow, the wider the board, the slower and more clumsy it is, the wide board is harder to manage, but more stable. Don't despair if you have big size legs - many board manufacturers produce models specifically for "big-footed", ask the seller - maybe you are lucky.


It’s a shame, but one of the most important parameters of the board is its rigidity, you won’t be able to check it in the store. To learn how to understand how much one board is stiffer than another, you need to bend them so much both along and across, and with a “screw”, that neither boards, nor time, nor hands are enough. Of course, to determine the difference between a soft children's board and a champion car, you don't need much intelligence and experience, but it's unrealistic to distinguish boards of the same class and the same level by stiffness without proper experience. You will have to trust the recommendations of manufacturers and the advice of sellers. When it comes to board construction, don't be fooled by words like "triaxial weave" or "elastomeric edge cushioning". The more long and incomprehensible words, the more expensive the board. A person who is able to explain these and other abstruse terms should be awarded the Nobel Prize in the field of translating meaningless phrases into a language that no one understands. There are only three principal structures: CEP, SANDWICH and SANDWICH-CEP. Some manufacturers use only one of them for all their boards, others use all three, so the question “Which is better?” there is no clear answer. Everything is fine. The same can be said about the filling: there is either a tree, or a tree with some obligatory cosmic addition, or something completely incomprehensible and of unearthly origin and completely without a tree. Board, and not wood? And from what? ...


Freeride (English freeride) - snowboarding or skiing off the prepared slopes and, as a rule, outside the service area of ​​the ski industry. It is believed that it is when skiing on untouched snow that all the possibilities of snowboarding and skiing are most fully revealed. At the same time, freeride skiing promises a lot of dangers associated with unfamiliar terrain, such as the possibility of avalanches. According to a number of experts, beginners in snowboarding and skiing should not rush to go beyond the slopes in the mountains, for this they should already have certain skiing skills. Over the past years, international freeride competitions among professionals and amateurs have been held annually.


Lightweight freeride is the simplest and most popular type of off-piste skiing, the essence of which is to climb a mountain on a lift and then descend along an untouched slope outside of prepared tracks.


Backcountry - climbing mountains that are not equipped with lifts, with a further descent from them on virgin snow. The most common type of freeride, despite the difficulty of climbing to the top of the mountain to start.


Heli-skiing (heliboarding) - throwing skiers (snowboarders) to the top of the mountain using a helicopter. At the same time, this entertainment is expensive, and in some places on our planet heli-skiing is prohibited.


Snowcatskiing (snowketskiing) - throwing skiers (snowboarders) to the top of a mountain with the help of a snowcat - a snowcat with a passenger cabin. At the same time, this entertainment is less expensive than heli-skiing.

Snowmotoboarding - snowboarder riding on the principle of water skiing or wakeboarding, only a motorcycle or snowmobile is used instead of a boat, and snow is used instead of water.

Freeride ( free ride) is snowboarding outside of prepared slopes and, as a rule, outside the service area of ​​​​the ski industry. It is believed that it is when skiing on untouched snow that all the possibilities of snowboarding are most fully revealed. At the same time, freeride skiing also promises a lot of dangers associated with unfamiliar terrain, for example, the possibility of avalanches, so beginners should not rush to go beyond the track in the mountains, for this they should already have certain skills in skating technique.

If you have mastered all the lessons of the snowboard school on Slenergy, then you are quite ready to start conquering unprepared slopes. The main thing is to remember about the conscious control of your body, which Ilya talked about on

It is recommended to start freeride training on ski resorts, where there are unprepared sections near the tracks. As a rule, such sites are safe from the point of view of the possibility of avalanches. And also, in case of emergency, they will be able to help you here.

1. Lead up exercises

In order to experience all the delights of freeriding, you need to learn how to become light, while not burying the nose of a snowboard in the snow and calmly control the board. The following exercises will help you with this.

Learning to be easy

Remember: where your attention is, there is your strength.

Raise your arms, bent at the elbows, to a level above the solar plexus, focus on your shoulders.

Squat down a little and lift your body up with the aspiration of your shoulders, while not pushing off with your legs, otherwise you will dig into the snow.

Learning not to dig in the snow

In no case do not concentrate on the legs: this will lead to the fact that you will dig into the loose snow and fall under it.

Stand on the board, spread your attention evenly on your shoulders and move your body back, while not shifting your attention to your back leg. Look ahead.


Always feel the snowboard under you, and when going downhill, feel its nose.

2. Freeride technique

Consider the features of the stance and distribution of attention, which you learned about from the lead-in exercises.

Crab game with hands

The most simple technique skating, according to Ilya Kosyachenko. You need to create accents of attention with the help of unpretentious hand movements, then you will be twisted in the desired direction.

Start moving down the slope, shift the body a little back, raise your hands above the solar plexus, look forward.

When you want to turn, start making a crab with your palm. If you want to turn on the heel edge, then use the crab to draw attention to back hand, and if on the front - on the front.


If you need to stop turning, just stop doing the crab and put your attention evenly on both hands.

Repeat this movement first to the left, then to the right. Try to control your speed and do not accelerate too much.

Be careful! Under the snow there can sometimes be stones, bushes and other obstacles.

Related twists

Instead of crabs, you can use any active hand movement to create emphasis and twist.

First practice on a gentle prepared slope.

In order to turn, it is necessary to distribute attention from the axis of the first turn in the center (on the shoulders), and only then create the next axis of turn. Always feel how the board is sliding, look forward.

Important! Any sudden movement can bury your board in the snow and cause you to fall. And it is very difficult to get up and continue moving in a freeride, so try to avoid falls.

If you feel like you are digging into the snow and falling, try to pull yourself up by raising your hands above your solar plexus center.

Today you learned how to properly distribute your attention on the board and body when moving in freeride and understood how to perform basic turns in conditions of skiing on an unprepared slope.

Lesson step by step instructions

1. In freeride, you need to be light. To do this, all your attention should be on the hands raised to the level of the solar plexus center. You seem to be pulling your shoulders up.

2. In no case do not concentrate on the legs: this will lead to the fact that you will dig into the loose snow and fall under it.

3. Always feel the snowboard under you, and when moving downhill, feel its nose.

4. The main stance in freeride: the body is shifted slightly back, the arms are raised above the solar plexus, the gaze is directed forward.

5. When you want to turn, start making a crab with your palm. If you want to turn on the back edge, then use the crab to draw attention to the back hand, and if on the front - to the front.

6. If you need to stop turning, just stop doing the crab and put your attention evenly on both hands.

7. If you feel like you are digging into the snow and falling, try to stretch yourself by raising your hands above your solar plexus center.

And at the next, final lesson of the season, Ilya Kosyachenko will tell you how to maneuver among the trees on high speed in freeride. See you!

Music used in the video: Kygo & Selena Gomez - "It Ain't Me".