First of all, adjust the position of the saddle. We set the height so that in the lowest position of the pedal the leg is straightened, but not completely, the knee should not be fully extended. Be careful not to push too hard seatpost from the frame - it has a special height limit mark.

Tire pressure

Many people still inflate bicycle tires “by touch” - squeezed with their fingers, if it doesn’t bend much, then it’s normal. In vain! This pressure in the tire is clearly not enough. Take a closer look - on the sidewall of the tire you will probably find the numbers of the required pressure, for example "40-65 psi / 2.8-4.5 bar". Yes, yes, a bicycle tire is inflated to a pressure much greater than a car tire, do not be surprised. Connect a car compressor with a pressure gauge and try to inflate the tires to the indicated pressure - you will be surprised how much easier it becomes to pedal! If you ride on the ground more often, then you can pump up to the lower limit, for better shock absorption, if on smooth asphalt, then to the upper limit, to reduce rolling resistance, this will save your strength. Consider your weight too: the larger the rider, the higher the pressure.

Correct saddle height is one of essential conditions proper fit, it is inconvenient to ride with half-bent knees.

Speaking of the tires themselves. As a rule, budget bikes are equipped with equally budget tires. They do not hold very well on the ground, and they do not “roll” well on asphalt. If you want to increase the average or top speed skiing - the first thing to do is to change tires to more suitable for the type of coverage. Choose proven brands - Maxxis, Schwalbe, Kenda, or Continental or Michelin, known to any motorist. This is not a purchase of first necessity, but you can plan yourself such a gift for some achievement - for example, 30 kilometers traveled at a time, or the first 500 km on the cycle computer odometer.

For a finer adjustment of the saddle, it can be adjusted in terms of inclination and longitudinal position. The saddle should be installed almost horizontally so that when riding it does not move forward or backward. Longitudinal adjustment is more individual, it will allow you to slightly change the distance to the steering wheel and the load on the hands

We switch gears

A bicycle is not a car with a manual transmission, many people manage to ride it without changing gears at all. Even though there are already more than 20 of them, many people prefer not to use them once again, and “break” uphill on the same stars as from the mountain. In vain! I strongly recommend clicking them more often. Firstly, the sprockets wear out more evenly on rear wheel, which means that they will have to be changed later. Secondly, by properly adjusting the load, you get less tired. But most importantly, the health of your knees depends on the frequency of pedaling (it is called “cadence”). Doctors say that it is less harmful for the joints to pedal faster, but with less load, than to “ache”, even getting up on the pedals from effort. The optimal cadence is 80-100 rpm, but it is difficult to maintain such a frequency out of habit, so it is better to stick to simple rule- choose a gear so that you can turn the pedals at the desired speed with little effort. And discard the myth that muscles will swing only under load, with "power" riding - the health of the knee joints is more important!

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Of course, it is not necessary to reach such turns! This is the destiny of highly qualified athletes. And yet it is better not to forget about the correct speed.

How to change gears correctly?

We do this only in motion, and at the very moment of switching the pedals you need to turn, but without effort. With a little practice, this will be almost instantaneous, and your bike will thank you - the rear derailleur and chain will last much longer. If the gears are clicked with difficulty, the inclusion is fuzzy, or every other time - this means that the switch cable has stretched or the settings have gone wrong, adjust the mechanism yourself or in the workshop, it's easy.

Another rule concerns the choice of front and rear sprocket combinations. Avoid positions where the chain goes “at an angle”, for example, when the small chainring is on in front and small in the back, or, conversely, large in front and behind. A small chainring is used only for difficult sections (uphill or sand, for example), a large chainring is used for high-speed driving in a straight line or downhill. Turn them on in advance, before lifting (descent). Under normal conditions, the middle chainring is turned on in front, and all reverse gears can be used with it, except for the outer ones. Failure to comply with these combinations will lead to a rapid stretching of the chain (it works with a warp) or disengagement of the chain from the sprocket, in which case it may jam.

Correct chain position

Incorrect chain position

The photo shows that if the gear is chosen incorrectly, the chain bends strongly, which leads to its accelerated wear.

Overclocked? Let's slow down!

Overwhelming majority modern bicycles have "manual" brakes, the left one - on the front wheel, the right one - on the rear. Accustom yourself to direct the main effort when stopping to left hand, and then during emergency braking, the hands themselves will remember how to do it right. Rear brake is auxiliary only. It is much easier to block it, which can lead to loss of stability and a fall. There is no need to be afraid to “fly over the steering wheel”, as we were frightened in childhood - to prevent this from happening, it is enough to get up and slightly shift the “fulcrum” back. Practice in calm conditions and you will see how short the stopping distance becomes. However, be careful on slippery surfaces - sand, soil, wet asphalt ... Under these conditions, you can block the front wheel without calculating the effort, this is fraught with a fall. Again, only practice will help to avoid this.

Good health!

What else is important for the health of a cyclist? Water! If you are traveling for more than half an hour, be sure to take water with you. This is important for the same knees - with a lack of water, the lubrication of the knee joint deteriorates. Drink regularly! Even if there is no thirst, if it does not seem to be hot outside, you still need to drink. Little by little, but often. A flask on the frame allows you to do this even without stopping, and for more "advanced" lovers there are special backpacks with a water tank and plastic tube with valve.

Last but not least, road safety. A cyclist is not a pedestrian and, in the absence of cycle lanes, must ride on the carriageway and not on the sidewalk. Be as visible to drivers as possible! Bright clothes, reflective reflectors - there is nothing superfluous here. If you leave even at dusk, be sure to hang a red bicycle light behind you, preferably in flashing mode, and it won’t hurt during the day either. Front - LED headlight. And do not miss the hole, and you will be better seen.

Feel free to show the direction of movement with your hands in advance - drivers see and understand this, but still, before any maneuver “across” the lanes, that is, before changing lanes or turning left, actively turn your head to make sure the maneuver is safe. Remember that you are vulnerable, even if you are right according to the traffic rules.

A lot of people think they know how to ride a bike. But is it really so?

If a person can ride a bicycle for a couple of kilometers and not fall, then he is inclined to believe that he is well versed in the technique of riding it. But, as elsewhere, there are many specific aspects in this matter, having understood and mastered which any cyclist will be able to ride more efficiently and safely.

Bike start

A lot of cyclists, even with experience, cannot take the time to learn and get used to how to get on and off the bike correctly. And their bad habits come back to haunt later when climbing a hill or in a dense stream.

It is very important to learn to ride in a straight line, without throwing from side to side. Most often, people level the movement of the bike after reaching a certain speed of about 8-13 km / h. Familiarization and practice correct technique starting on a bike will allow you to accelerate faster to the desired speed, and accordingly the bike will be less time "subject" to you.

Some startup errors

A lot of cyclists are accustomed to jumping on the bike in a "cowboy" way. This is not surprising, learning to ride bicycles is very big size, it is almost the only effective way climb it. It looks like this: a person stands next to the bike, puts one foot on the pedal, and the other pushes off the ground and throws it over the saddle of the already moving bike. This technique is highly dubious and dangerous, since at the start the weight of the cyclist is transferred to the bike at the moment when it is under a large slope. And this in the future can lead to breakdowns of the frame or wheels. Bicycle wheels are generally not designed for large side loads, and this jumping technique does just that.

The next technique is called "shuffling jumping" - the cyclist stands with one foot on the pedals, and with the other foot pushes off the ground in an attempt to accelerate. At the same time, it is not possible to quickly control a bicycle, and it is generally impossible to start moving uphill in this way.

"Fly jump" - this launch technique is less popular, but no less dangerous. The cyclist, holding onto the handlebars of the bicycle, runs beside him, and then jumps into the saddle. It's dangerous and ugly.

Correct starting technique

You need to stand above the frame so that both feet are on the ground. Most often, the leg is thrown over the saddle, if you have a low handlebar, then the leg can be thrown over it. If the frame is low, then the leg can be thrown over it, after tilting the bike for this. Do not immediately sit in the saddle, moreover, if it is correctly configured, you will not succeed.

Place the pedal so that it is turned 45 degrees upwards. You can put any pedal, choose which foot is convenient for you to start moving.

Place your foot on this pedal and press it hard. At the same time, using the pedal as a step, rise and sit in the saddle. The force of the leg will then begin to accelerate the bike.

If you're having trouble getting started, take the time to practice. This is very light vehicles and it is the safest. You need to get used to it and then you can quickly accelerate the bike to a speed that allows you to ride confidently.

Bike stop

Stopping is less difficult when cycling, but bad habits still exist. It is better to get rid of them as soon as possible and replace them with the right methods.

Downshift first

With a standard gearshift system on a bicycle, gears can only be changed when it is moving. It is important to develop the habit of downshifting before braking. Then at the start it will be easier for you to pedal and you will quickly gain safe speed. Usually the rear derailleur is transferred to a large sprocket, and the front derailleur to the second largest. In an emergency, forget about the stars and just slow down. And at a standard stop, make it a habit to shift gears.

When feet touch the ground

Some cyclists put their feet on the ground very early, perhaps to compensate for bad brakes. But this can be very dangerous.

While stopping, put your weight on one pedal that is in the down position (if freewheel). And the other leg should be ready to land on the ground, but not touch it until the bike has almost come to a halt.

If you put your foot on the ground too early, then the following can happen: the brake affects the entire system "bike + cyclist", when you put your foot on the pavement and transfer weight to it, the brake only affects the bike. Since the weight of the bike is less, it stops, and your body continues to move forward by inertia. As a result, the body flies on the steering wheel, which can lead to a fall.

Although at first glance these tips may seem ridiculous, but trust me, following them will make your riding safer and more efficient.

Have you ever wanted to go outside and ride a bike? Are you trying to teach someone else how to ride? Many adults still do not know how to ride, and many children really want to learn. There is nothing to be ashamed of here. Better join the most useful and convenient form of personal transport as soon as possible. You can’t do without preparation, tips and a few falls, but anyone can learn to ride a bike.

Steps

Part 1

Safe driving rules

Find the right place. For training, a convenient place away from traffic will do. It is best to choose a flat area without holes and potholes (access road or sidewalk). If there is no suitable place near the house, then you can study in the parking lot or in the park.

• At first, it is better to ride on a lawn or on small gravel so that the fall is not as painful as on asphalt. Keep in mind that on a soft surface it is more difficult to keep balance and pedal.
• If you want to learn how to balance and pedal on hills, then find a place with a gentle slope.
• Find out if you can drive on sidewalks and other places in your city.

1. Clothing for cycling. Knee pads and elbow pads protect the joints from damage and scratches, so it is recommended to use such pads. Pants and sweatshirts with long sleeves will also provide additional protection in case of falls.

   • Do not wear baggy pants and long skirts, as they may catch on the sprocket or wheel.
   • Choose closed-toe shoes to protect your toes from falls and contact with moving parts of the bike.

2. Wear a helmet. Helmets are recommended for both beginners and experienced cyclists. Nobody knows when it's possible to have an accident. Broken bones mend fairly quickly, but head injuries that are common in crashes can have lasting effects. In some cases, a helmet is a legal requirement.

   Go out to study during the day. You can ride a bike at night, but beginners are advised to learn during daylight hours. It will take a long time to learn how to maintain balance. Over time, you will start to go to less safe areas, so it is important to see the obstacles. At night, it is more difficult for drivers to spot a cyclist.

   • If you have free time only at night, then wear light-colored clothes, install reflectors and headlights on your bike.

Part 2

How to get on a bike

1. Learn on a level surface. The bike is more stable in the driveway, sidewalk, no-traffic road, and park path. There are no slopes, so it's not high to fall, it's easier to keep your balance and stop.

   • Low grass and fine gravel will become good choice. Falling on them doesn't hurt as much, but it's hard to pedal to get around.

2. Adjust seat height. Lower the seat so that the cyclist can sit and still have both feet on the ground. The lower the seat, the easier it is to stop with your feet and not fall. Adults don't need extra wheels, but they will help kids keep their balance, just like special bicycles without pedals.

   • You can remove the pedals so that they do not interfere, but this is not necessary.

3. Check the brakes. Understand how brakes work. Get off the bike and roll it next to you. Depress the brake levers to become accustomed to their location, operation and required force. Brakes make cycling easier, as they allow you to make an emergency stop at any time.

   Place one foot on the ground. You can position yourself on either side of the bike, but it is much more convenient when it is on the side of your dominant hand. For example, a right-hander might stand to the left of the bike. Lift your right leg, throw it over the bike and plant it on the ground on the other side. Hold the bike between your legs.

   • Feel the weight of the bike between your legs and keep your balance as you try to sit on the seat. Use your feet as support so you don't fall to one side.
   • Stay centered on the bike and distribute your weight evenly on both sides of the frame. Sit up straight and don't lean over.

4. Start a smooth movement. Don't pedal and push off with your feet. Raise your legs and put on the pedals. As you move, try to keep your balance. If the bike starts to lean to the side, put one foot out and gently push off the ground.

   Look straight ahead. If you look at obstacles, then the bike will run right into them. Try to direct your gaze along the chosen route of movement. It will take some time to get used to and not be distracted by the sides.

   Start pedaling. Put one foot on the ground, and the other rest on the pedal that is pointing up. Push off, put your other foot on the bottom pedal and start moving! Maintain balance for as long as possible.

   • The faster the movement, the easier it is to maintain balance, but at speed it is more difficult to control the bike.

5. Get off your bike. Don't brake with your feet. Learn to use the brakes. Stop pedaling, put your weight on the bottom pedal and apply both brake levers on the handlebars. At the moment of stopping, rise a little and put your feet on the ground.

Part 3

How to ride slopes

Practice going down gentle slopes. Roll your bike to the top of the slope, get on and off without pedaling under the influence of gravity. Get off and then repeat the descent as many times as you can to learn how to balance and control the bike while moving.

Brake when descending slopes. If you are already comfortable with your feet on the pedals, gently apply the brakes the next time you descend. Learn to slow down your bike so that you don't lose control or tip over the handlebars.

1. Start pedaling on the flat ground at the foot of the hill. Climbing a hill is more difficult than driving on a level road. Lean forward or even stand up from your seat to push the pedals with more force. Climb the slope and go down a few times until you get used to it.
   • When you feel confident, try driving to the middle of the hill, stop, and then continue up again.

• With confident driving, you can raise the seat higher and touch the ground only with your fingertips.
• Always use personal protective equipment, including a helmet and visors.
• It is more difficult for beginners to learn how to ride bikes with gears. On such a bike, you need to shift into a higher gear in order to climb a steep slope.
• Do not rely on other road users. Always keep an eye on cars and other cyclists.
• Look ahead while driving. If you look to the sides, then the bike will also lean to the sides.
• Learn to ride with an assistant (parents or adults). Help is welcome at any age.
• Learning in a group is more fun. If you're afraid of falling off your bike, take inspiration from other beginners who learn without fear.
• If you don't have a helmet and visors, then learn to ride on grass and away from busy roads.

Warnings

• Check local laws. Some cities require helmets to be worn at all times, or driving on sidewalks is prohibited.
• Cyclists often get into accidents. Always wear a helmet to protect your head from injury. Shields will protect you from scratches and fractures.
• First learn how to ride a bike, and then learn the rules of road safety, do not exceed the speed limit, watch the cars and follow the road signs.

There is an opinion that anyone who can drive a couple of laps around the yard and not fall already masterfully owns a bicycle and knows everything about riding technique. However, as with other activities, there are levels of skill, and a cyclist who has learned proper technique and practiced it enough will ride safer and more efficiently.

Start

Many veteran cyclists never find the time to learn how to get on and off their bike properly, and their bad habits do them a disservice in traffic or when climbing hills.

One of the basic cycling skills is riding in a straight line, without swaying from side to side. Most people can't level their trajectory until they reach a certain minimum speed, usually around 8-13 km/h. Learning proper start technique will allow you to reach this critical speed faster, and the bike will be partly out of your control for a fraction of the time.

Some mistakes

• Cowboy saddle riding is popular among cyclists who have learned to ride too big bikes. Indeed, this the only way ride a bicycle whose frame is too high for the rider. This questionable and unsafe technique is as follows: you stand next to the bike, put your foot on the pedal, then push off with your other foot and throw it over the saddle of the already moving bike.
  In cowboy jumping, the weight of the cyclist is transferred to the bike at the moment when it is tilted at a significant angle. Because of this, in the future, damage to the frame and wheels is possible. bicycle wheels, in particular, are not designed to withstand serious side loads, and this unfortunate jumping technique puts a heavy load on the wheels.

• The "shuffling jump" looks like this: you stand with one foot on the pedals and try to accelerate the bike by pushing off the ground with the other foot ... you cannot quickly control the bike, and thus you cannot start moving uphill.

• The "fly jump" is a lesser known but no less vicious technique that involves the cyclist running alongside the bike and then jumping into the saddle. Racers sometimes do this, but it is dangerous and ugly.

Correct starting technique

1. Stand above the frame with both feet on the ground. Most of you will have to swing your leg over the saddle first, but if you have a low handlebar, you can also throw your leg over the handlebars. If your bike has a women's frame or even a low frame, you may be able to swing your foot straight over the frame. Sometimes it is necessary to pre-tilt the bike.

2. Don't try to sit in the saddle when the bike is stationary, this is often not possible if your saddle is properly aligned.

3. Turn the pedals so that the pedal on the side of your weak foot is turned at an angle of 45 degrees upwards.

4. Place your foot on this pedal and press it hard.

The following will happen at the same time:

- you can use this pedal as a step on which you will climb and sit on the saddle;

- the force transferred to the chain drive will start to accelerate the bike.

If you haven't learned it yet, take the time to practice. It may look complicated, but it's actually much easier. Once you get used to doing the above, it becomes second nature. You will ride better and safer as you can quickly accelerate the bike to a speed that allows you to move with confidence.

Stop

Stopping is not that difficult for most cyclists, but there are bad habits to break and good tricks that should be learned.

Downshift first

If your bike has a standard gear system, then it only works when moving. It is very important to develop the habit of downshifting to the nearest lower gear before braking so that you will have a well-chosen gear to resume movement. Usually switch the rear derailleur to a large sprocket, and the front derailleur to the second largest. Naturally, in an emergency, you only brake and don't care about the gears, but with a normal, controlled stop, you can learn to shift gears automatically.

When feet touch the ground

Perhaps out of a desire to compensate for bad brakes with shoe outsoles, some cyclists lower their feet too quickly, which can be painful.

At the moment of stopping, you need to transfer your weight to one pedal (which should be in the lower position if the bike is equipped with a freewheel). The other foot should not touch the ground until the bike has almost come to a stop.

If you put your foot on the ground while the bike is still moving, the following will happen. You are already stopping with the help of the brakes, and these same brakes affect the entire system "bike + cyclist". If you lower your leg, your weight is transferred to your leg, and the brakes now only work on the bike, which is much lighter than you. The braking force, which only brought the bike and rider to a smooth stop at a controlled speed, would be just enough to bring the bike to an instantaneous stop on its own. Meanwhile, the moment of inertia keeps you on the path of movement until the private parts of your body are freaking out on the stem of your suddenly stopped bike ... oh!

How do I get into Carnegie Hall?

If you are one of the many cyclists who, despite years of practice, have not overcome bad habits related to starting and stopping, then it is never too late to improve your technique. These recommendations may seem ridiculous at first, but as soon as you use them at least once, you will see that life has become better, life has become more fun ... Practice! Train! Train!

Both amateur cyclists and professional cyclists quite often test their endurance during training, more or less giving all the best to them. Subsequently, the effectiveness of each workout is significantly reduced and the rider's body does not have time to rebuild. They are so heavy that the forces do not have time to recover normally. This leads to a state of decline, chronic overwork of the cyclist's body. The rider will no longer be able to train productively.

If a rider feels the desire to learn how to ride a bike faster, has certain sporting ambitions, zeal, then the regimen of the training itself should be clearly regulated: training days should be quite heavy, but at the same time, days of rest should be spent in complete relaxation.

How to learn to ride a bike faster

The correct construction of the training process

When it comes to relaxed cycling, everything is simple. Jim Rutberg, a professional cycling coach, states that a rider should not sweat during a relaxed ride. It is necessary to try to keep a measured pace, imagining that "they took the bike with them for a walk." The very pace of the ride should be such that even people of retirement age can make such a trip without any special difficulties.

Much more difficult is the case with training days. In order to fully control the riding process, the cyclist must use special devices that collect and analyze objective indicators his success. These include heart monitors, power meters in various combinations, cadence sensors, and more. The ability to receive static data helps the cyclist to set realistic goals for the current level of training.

If the rider does not use such electronic devices, then Jim Rutberg suggests the following. You should carefully listen to your body, make a scale from 1 to 10, where you can indicate the levels for the efforts applied during the training process. One is the minimum effort as in relaxed riding, ten is the maximum possible load.

Therefore, during the training day, the cyclist should engage in various degrees of intensity:

Levels 5 and 6 help the rider increase their aerobic endurance. This should be a fairly serious pace of driving, during which it will be difficult to talk, you can only say jerky short phrases. Depending on the physical form for a cyclist to ride during training at levels 5 and 6, he must spend 15–60 minutes;

Loads at levels 7 and 8 make it much easier for the rider to tackle any climb. At the same time, the highest pace of driving is observed, during which it is almost impossible to talk. Jim Rutberg recommends working at this intensity in three intervals of 10 minutes each. Five-minute inter-interval breaks should be observed;

Levels 9 and 10 correspond to the maximum power and speed of the rider. Such a load is performed at intervals of 1-2 minutes. At this pace, you should train for 12-20 minutes.

The main thing is not only to correctly distribute training days and rest periods, but also to calculate the effort during skiing.

So, you've decided to test your strength during the training week? Jim Rutberg recommends several types of schedules depending on how many times a week you train.

Cycling three days a week:

• The best option is cycling every other day. For example, Monday, Wednesday and Friday;
• Monday and Wednesday in this case should be heavy training days. On Friday, you need to ride more calmly and for a long time.

Cycling four days a week:

• there are two types of effective schedules: Monday/Wednesday/Friday/Saturday and Tuesday/Thursday/Saturday/Sunday;
• Monday and Wednesday, as well as Tuesday and Thursday, should be heavy training days. Calm and measured skiing should be carried out on weekends.

Cycling five days a week:

• the best schedule is Tuesday/Wednesday/Thursday/Saturday/Sunday;
• Tuesday and Thursday, as in previous schedules, should be heavy training days.

Once every three weeks, it is necessary to plan a weekly recovery period, during which experts advise making only relaxed trips that are light in pace and load (not necessarily short in mileage). If you have not previously followed any training schedule, then the described methods will allow you to get significant results after the fourth week, and after three months you will become a completely different cyclist.