If you look at how ascents were made in the recent past, it is easy to see that significant changes are taking place. Scientific and technological progress is steadily changing the face of climbing. The quality of mountain equipment is changing, new materials and technologies are being used, and this is immediately reflected in the climbing technique. This article discusses the use of ropes and belay techniques, which are the most important safety issues in mountaineering, tourism, rock climbing and some others. extreme sports sports.

Basic concepts

We will immediately agree that in the future we will consider the technique of belaying as applied only to mountaineering. The use of insurance for other purposes is not fundamentally different and is not considered in this paper.

So, the main concepts that we will encounter in this work:

ascent- an unmotivated action taken by a group of people (from one to several hundred people), which, nevertheless, has the goal of reaching the top of the mountain along the path chosen by them, more or less difficult, leaving a note there, and then going down as quickly as possible.
Bundle- two or more people tied with one rope.
Rope- a special rope certified according to the UIAA standard (details below), or as close as possible to this standard in its properties.
Insurance- a number of measures aimed at preventing the possibility of injury to climbers as a result of their fall from a greater or lesser height onto an unprepared surface of a mountainous terrain.
Base (or point of insurance)- the most convenient place from which insurance is carried out. The base is equipped with reliable points of insurance (usually - at least 2 points of insurance), which are blocked between themselves.
Point of insurance- a safety element fixed on a mountainous terrain with maximum efficiency. The rope is snapped into the belay point with a carabiner. It is desirable to use braces for more free movement of the rope.
Carbine- a metal product, steel, titanium or duralumin, with or without a coupling.
System- consists of a gazebo and harness, or only from a gazebo, put on a person. The rope is tied into the system or attached to the system using a carabiner with a clutch.
Brake device- a metal product to create additional friction when descending the rope down or when belaying. For example: figure eight, insect, Sticht puck, Grigri.
bottom insurance- the insurer is below the person he insures.
Top insurance- the insurer is above the insured (the first accepts the second).

Elements of the safety chain, permissible loads

When climbers move, insurance is carried out using a rope that binds climbers. In a fall, a person falls and hangs on a rope. If he has not previously hit and lingered on protruding parts of ice, rocks, etc. - his movement will be stopped by a rope that is snapped into the carabiners of the belay points or passes through the ledges and is held by the belayer through the belay station or ledge on the rock. At the same time, the one who breaks will not get injured if the jerk is not hard.

Rigidity of the dash is also essential to ensure that the belay points, base, or system of the strayer is not destroyed by an overly hard dash. At the same time, the climbing system is designed for a jerk of no more than 1500-1600 kg. The base is blocked by a sling (loop) or the main rope, while the sling or rope itself is designed for a jerk up to 2200 kg. What kind of jerk the belay points will withstand is unpredictable and can only be preliminary estimated qualitatively, depending on the experience of the climber. The elements themselves are made with the expectation of a breakthrough on them of 1600-2500 kg, but the conditions for their installation sometimes do not provide such a strong breakthrough and the points can fly out without destroying their structural elements. So it is believed that rock hooks can withstand 500-1000 kg, bookmarks - up to a break in the cable or loop, but, being poorly laid, they can fly out even with a very weak jerk.

Modern dynamic ropes can withstand 8-20 such jerks. It can be said that for such ropes such a jerk is in the area of ​​proportional dependence of force on elongation (of course, within the limits of the number of such jerks that is indicated by the manufacturer).

Dynamic impact - the impact of a force that changes in time, or the impact of a moving object (load). For example - a person falling under the influence of gravity. At the same time, it moves with an acceleration g=9.8 m/sec2 and its speed increases in proportion to the fall time. When they say that, while hanging on a rope, a person experiences a jerk, this means that all the kinetic energy of a person goes into the energy of deformation of the rope and the elastic force from the rope acts on the person.

The magnitude of the jerk is the maximum value of the elastic force. The elastic force during the breakdown changes along the cosine wave. When walking in the mountains, no one, of course, calculates what kind of jerk will occur when a person falls. But for a correct assessment of the situation, it is necessary to qualitatively navigate the situation and imagine what the magnitude of this breakthrough may depend on, when it is greater and when it is less.

The magnitude of the jerk depends only on the properties of the rope? - the coefficient of rigidity of the rope, on the weight of the person P and the jerk factor K. The jerk does not depend on how many meters the person went above the insurance point, how many points he made, on the length of the rope and other things. The jerk factor is the ratio of the depth of the fall to the total length of the issued rope. At the same time, the values ​​of the depth of fall or the length of the rope themselves do not affect the jerk (that is, if the depth of the fall and the length of the rope are 3 meters or they are equal to 30 meters, the jerk will be the same). There is nothing surprising in this.
Indeed, with a greater depth of fall, a greater amount of rope is involved in damping the jerk, while the jerk is the same.
The minimum value of the jerk is 2 times the weight (i.e. 160 kg with a person weighing 80 kg). Occurs when the rope is simply loaded and there is no free rope. At the same time, K=0 - there is no free fall at all, the rope begins to load immediately.
The maximum value of the jerk factor in is usually equal to K=2. Such a jerk corresponds to the case when the first in the bunch did not make a single point. At the same time, he falls to the insurer and the same amount down.

K>2 can occur only if the insurer, after the fall of the first one, has time to choose the rope. For this reason (and also for reasons of the possibility of losing insurance), it is strictly forbidden to choose a rope after the leader's fall.
Influence of friction at the top point on the magnitude of the jerk Let's consider the effect of friction on the carabiner of the top point, at which the breakaway hangs.
Here f is the coefficient of friction of the rope in the carabiner. With very high friction
(for example, the rope is stuck in the carabiner) the situation is equivalent to the case when the jerk with factor K=2 falls on the upper carabiner. Indeed, in this case f=1; (Lo-L1)/Lo=H/Lo=K/2; With this in mind, the bracketed expression below, which includes f, becomes K/2. This is equivalent to the situation when K=2 and there is no friction.
This expression in the equation is responsible for the influence of friction forces at the top point on the magnitude of the jerk. Let's analyze it. The expression L1/Lo can take values ​​from 0 to 1. In a normal situation, L1/Lo=(1-K/2).
Dependence graphs F(f) and F(L1/Lo) are practically linear. (The linearity of the graphs means that by how many times the friction or the L1 / Lo ratio has increased, the amount of jerk will increase by that many times). The charts are shown below.
There is a singularity when f and L1/Lo are close to 1.
This is visible on the charts. In this case, the magnitude of the jerk increases sharply. This corresponds to the situation if, when the first in the bundle falls, the entire rope is sharply retracted and the friction through the carabiner is high. In this case, the load will fall on the upper point, and at the same time, there will be no dampening of the rope jerk.
The graphs are given for a weight of 80 kg and a rope that, with a standard jerk
UIAA has a snatch value of 1200 kg. This situation can actually be present in practice and this must be borne in mind. For example, if at the same time the ligament is moving, the lower one is torn off, it can rip off the upper one.
When they fall at the same time, their rope will move in the upper carabiner.
At the same time, the first one in the bundle is, as it were, pulled to the top point, and when the rope starts to dampen its fall energy, it will almost not remain for this purpose, the jerk will be very tough. With such a jerk, the jerk factor can be much higher than 2.
Influence of rope dressing on the magnitude of the jerk. Consider the effect of dressing a rope. In this case, we will distinguish between the actual etching, which is included in the concept of dynamic insurance, and the friction that occurs when the rope moves between the base and the upper carabiner due to the rope moving through the carabiners and due to friction on the unevenness of the relief.
In this case, two relative values ​​are involved - the ratio of the etching force to the weight of a person and the ratio of the etching length to the length of the rope. How can we take into account the pickling realistically during the insurance?
To do this, let's find out - how to extinguish the jerk only by pickling?

The etching force is 0 if the etching force is equal to the person's weight, in which case the etching length will be equal to the person's fall depth. 0, if the etching force is N times greater than the weight of a person, then the etching length will be N times less than the fall depth.

When damping the jerk only by etching, the force of the jerk on the rope will be constant throughout the entire etching period. This technique is very convenient and versatile. Using this technique, you can walk on any rope (including non-UIAA-certified, even hemp rope). Its disadvantage is the complexity of execution.

Rope friction against intermediate carabiners and terrain

This factor can only be estimated. The more difficult it is for the first to choose the rope, the greater this friction. The more kinks the rope makes in the carabiners, the more friction there is as well. When working in bundles, they try to reduce this friction, as it interferes with movement. In this case, braces, a double rope and a number of other techniques are used. With a high friction value, the jerk to the upper hook can be very hard (in the worst case, there will be a hard jerk with a jerk factor of K=2). So, the friction of the rope acts as a braking device with some etching force.
Dynamic Insurance

Dynamic Insurance- pretty complex technique, which allows, in case of a partner’s fall, to reduce the jerk on the rope and on all other links of the safety chain and to secure the consequences of a fall. At the same time, the insurer does not clamp the rope rigidly, but in such a way that, when jerking, it is etched to a certain length. You can control either the force with which the belayer clamps the rope, or the length of the etch.

It is easier to control the etching force. The length of the etch will be such that corresponds to this effort. Since in real conditions there is friction of the rope on the carabiners and on the terrain, they act simultaneously with the actions of the insurer. It is necessary to evaluate how critical the fall of the partner is to a great depth of fall (are there shelves, ledges that your partner can hit), as well as the length of the free rope. If conditions allow - try to pickle the rope for a sufficient distance. At the first moment of the jerk, you should not clamp the rope strongly (suddenly the friction on the intermediate carabiners and ledges will be great). Then you need to gradually increase the force on your braking device.

If the length of the etch is too long, you need to increase the force. If you do everything right, the jerk will be almost imperceptible to your partner and you will reduce the risk of pulling out the top insurance point. It is recommended to use a braking device during belaying.
Common braking devices are "eight", "reverse" and "basket".

On the base the belayer makes insurance to the first in a bunch. The base must withstand the jerk both down (if the first one fails to make a single point or they all fly out) and up. The dash for the base can be both very hard and weak. It is important that a strong jerk does not fall on the base. This can lead to tearing out individual points of insurance and even to the destruction of the base itself (and then all the participants in the bundle will most likely die, which, of course, should not be allowed).

For the base, they usually make 2 points of insurance or more. Then they block each other.

At the top anchor point the breakaway is arrested. We have already discussed this process above. If there were no friction in the carabiner, then a force would act on the upper point that is 2 times greater than the jerk on the rope. Due to the friction force, the force N=F1+F=1.66F will act on the carabiner. In the presence of dirt, moisture, defects in the rope or carabiner, the friction force can increase, so that the actual load on the carabiner (and therefore on the belay point) is: F< N < 1.66F.

Approximately, we can assume that the load at the top point is one and a half times more than the jerk in the rope. If the point has departed, then a similar process will occur at the next point. In this case, part of the energy may or may not be extinguished (depending on how the insurance point was pulled out). If the next one fails, the fall will continue ... When passing the rope, you must make at least 2-3 absolutely reliable intermediate points of insurance. A reliable point of insurance must also be made before a difficult place, as well as after it (because at the most difficult place you can simply not have time to make a good point of insurance).

at other intermediate points. In the event of a fall, the entire main load falls on the upper (last) point of insurance. At this time, a small jerk acts on other intermediate points in the direction perpendicular to the slope. When insuring for an anchor or hooks, this moment can not even be considered, which cannot be said for the case when bookmarks are used. Bookmarks are characterized by the fact that they can only hold the jerk in a very specific direction, which usually coincides with the direction of a possible breakdown. In the transverse direction, bookmarks often do not work. Moreover, some of the bookmarks can simply fly out when pulling the rope up when the first one moves. And this means that when the top point is pulled out, you will have to fall far ... How can you secure this situation?

Knock out the bookmark with a hammer (unpopular measure, spoils the bookmark itself, after that, as a rule, it is difficult to pull it out, but it is very effective). Use only as a last resort.

The most common way: strongly pull the bookmark after it has already been installed (this way it is wedged in the crack and does not pop out under lateral loads).

Hang an additional quickdraw or carabiner on the bookmark. In combination with the above, it is widely used, but leads to additional equipment consumption.

Put another bookmark that acts in the opposite direction. These points are blocked and used together. This improves reliability. Disadvantages - additional cost of equipment and time to set up a point.

The impact on the broken. The same jerk that occurs in the rope acts on the broken one.
Some depreciation is provided by the suspension system and the musculoskeletal system (this is essential when the depth of the fall is small). In addition to the jerk factor, it is essential that the fallen person does not hit the ledges before being restrained by the rope. The quality of the suspension system is of great importance. For rock climbing, they have recently used a lower suspension system - a gazebo. It is made in such a way as to evenly distribute the load. In this case, most of the load is distributed to upper part hips. According to UIAA standards, the system must withstand a jerk of at least 1500 kg (with 750 kg per leg). It is believed that short-term exposure to a jerk of 1200 kg does not cause significant harm to a person (hence the UIAA standard for a rope - no more than 1200 kg)

For mountaineering, mainly combined systems of gazebos and harnesses are used. This is due to the fact that the fall of a climber can occur in more difficult conditions and with large jerk factors. If the climber's fall does not stabilize in time, the jerk can occur in a direction perpendicular to the body (if it is only in the arbor). In this case, injuries of the spine are possible, up to its fracture. In addition, the climber can carry a backpack. In this case, the impact on the spine can become even more unpredictable. The use of a harness stabilizes the fall of the body.
The point of application of the jerk is much further from the center of gravity and the risk of spinal injury is much lower. But at the same time, a new danger arises - to get injured (fractures) of the ribs. Therefore, the binding must be carefully adjusted. In the event of a breakdown, the load should fall partly on the harness, but mainly on the gazebo.
We emphasize once again that the first one should be tied into the rope with a knot, and not fastened with a carabiner.

climbing rope
How to choose ? What criteria must it meet?

Choice

The rope as a whole is divided into dynamic, static and auxiliary. Dynamic ropes are used for belaying on the route when walking with a lower belay. Static is used for railings, in rescue work and in industrial mountaineering. Auxiliary rope is used for various other purposes, where the possible loads are much lower in magnitude than in the cases listed above.

Let's dwell on dynamic ropes in more detail. Currently, a single rope, half ropes (it is also called a double rope) and a double rope (otherwise - zwilling) are used.
single rope- best suited for sport climbing and climbing on easy "traditional" routes (where the route and rope work are not very difficult).
half rope- most suitable for more difficult rope work, or when, due to the lower force of the jerk on the divided ropes, safety is increased during a fall, or, if necessary, to organize a descent with an rappel.
double rope- will be best for mountain routes (it is much lighter than two half-ropes).
How to choose a rope when buying it is not a very simple question. Whenever the choice is wide enough, it is difficult to make it. It is easier to work with a single rope. As a rule, it is used more often than other types of ropes. It is also more versatile and a little cheaper than zwilling or 2 half ropes.

In the author's opinion, a single rope is more stable in terms of susceptibility to mechanical damage. However, the advantages of using double ropes are quite significant and the choice is most often based on personal preferences and habits. In terms of safety in using different types of ropes, we can assume that they are equally safe.

properties and specifications modern ropes:

For ropes, UIAA and European requirements have been developed. If the rope satisfies them, then its use in mountaineering is possible. The rope is dynamic and static. The dynamic rope is used to belay the first on the route (for the bottom belay). Static rope is not used for bottom belaying and is used for organizing railings, in rescue work or industrial mountaineering. There are also European regulations for static rope. Their main difference from dynamic ropes is that a static rope should not be strongly stretched (no more than 5% with a load of 150 kg).

UIAA and EN892 requirements for dynamic rope:

The jerk force must be no more than 12 kN at a jerk factor of 2 with a weight of 80 kg. (55 kg for half rope or double rope).

The rope must withstand at least 5 pulls with a pull factor of 2 and the weight given above.

Elongation under load - should not be more than 8% under a load of 80 kg (for a half rope - elongation is not more than 10% under a load of 80 kg).

Flexibility when tying knots - tested by measuring the diameter of the rope inside the knot with a load of 10 kg.

The displacement of the rope sheath relative to the core is 2 m. The rope is pulled through a special device 5 times. The displacement of the sheath of the rope must be less than 40 mm.

The marking must indicate the type of rope (single, half rope or double), the manufacturer and the CE certificate.

Requirements of prEN 1891 for static ropes:

The jerk force must be less than 6 kN with a jerk factor of 0.3 and a weight of 100 kg.

Must withstand at least 5 tugs with a fall factor of 1 and a weight of 100 kg, with a figure-eight knot.

Elongation arising from loads from 50 to 150 kg should not exceed 5%.

Flexibility when tying knots - as above. Flexibility factor (factor K=rope diameter/rope diameter inside the knot) - must be no more than 1.2.

The displacement of the rope sheath relative to the core is 2 m. The rope is pulled through a special device 5 times. The displacement of the sheath of the rope should be no more than 15 mm.

The weight of the rope sheath should not exceed a certain percentage of the total mass of the rope.

Static breaking force - the rope must withstand at least 22 kN (for ropes with a diameter of 10 mm or more) or 18 kN (for 9 mm ropes), with a figure-eight knot - 15 kN.

Marking - at the ends of the rope, the type of rope (A or B), diameter, manufacturer and EN, to which the rope corresponds, are indicated. The band in the center must show the type of rope (A or B), model, manufacturer, number and year of manufacture.

Here are the UIAA standards for other equipment used in mountaineering:

Anchors, hooks, anchors: 25 kN

Carbines, along the longitudinal axis (carabiner): 20 kN

Carabiners, along the transverse axis (carabiner): 4 kN

Safety loops (sling): 22 kN

System (harness): 15 kN

Ice ax handle strength 12 kN

Everything lately more people tends to spend their holidays more actively. One of these ways is mountaineering. By this is meant its sports component. This sport is perfect for people with an adventurous temperament who love risk.

At the same time, you need to understand that mountaineering is divided into several varieties and their requirements are different. This applies to both physical and psychological preparation.

The most common is combined mountaineering. Climbing takes place in low mountains. At the same time, there is a complete set of reliefs from gentle ascents to rocks and snowy slopes. In this regard, you have to take quite a lot of variety. This significantly reduces the group's movement speed and forces the use of bivouacs. For ascents over 5,000 meters, acclimatization is required.

Rock climbing- this is a rather specific type of mountaineering. It consists in climbing low mountains with a predominance of rocks. Such rises occur quite quickly. In this case, equipment is required a little, which further speeds up the process.

High-altitude mountaineering is the most difficult kind. Only experienced athletes are engaged in it. The difficulty lies in the severe weather conditions on high altitude. The main difference is the need for long-term acclimatization of the body.

Therefore, the ascents are "jerk", that is, having risen to a certain height, the group descends a little lower to rest. Climbing can take more than a month. Above 8,000 meters, the "death zone" begins, finding a person here is very difficult.

Another type is "bigvole climbing". This is a fairly young form of mountaineering. Here they overcome long sections of rocks in length, reaching at least half a kilometer.

Develop a variety of qualities required in the process of ascent. As special physical skills and theoretical knowledge are developed, they move on to practical training on the ground.

Be sure all beginners learn ways of insurance and self-insurance. The use of carbines and other devices is being studied. At the same time, instructors strive to avoid gaps in knowledge. After all, the oversight of one member of the team can lead to the death of the entire group, especially on high-altitude climbs.

Initially, training takes place on various simulators, with the help of which various mountain conditions are simulated. It can be rope paths, ladders and so on. Plain pedestrian crossings with overcoming natural obstacles are often used.

Mandatory for all climbers is work on the climbing wall. Here the skills of climbing on sheer walls are developed. Strength endurance also develops.

The second stage of training consists in climbing routes with low level difficulties. After that, the training is considered completed.

climber equipment

used in mountaineering different kinds equipment. First of all, these are various ropes and safety devices. It should be noted that the cost of equipment is quite high, but you should not save on safety. For example, ropes can be purchased at a price of thirty thousand rubles per bay. Arbor-type safety devices are sold from 15,000 to 25,000 rubles.

You can buy somewhere for ten thousand. Other climbing equipment is offered at a price slightly below 20,000 rubles. can be purchased for five thousand rubles.

Winter and summer mountaineering

The differences between these two species are not too big and rather blurred. It must be said that high-altitude mountaineering is always a rise in winter conditions. When climbing the middle mountains, the difference lies in the length of the day and the height of the beginning of the snow cap. In summer it is much higher.

There are also differences in the main dangers. In summer, the snow cover at altitude is unstable, which can cause snow avalanches and glaciers. In winter, fresh snow covers the ice cracks, making crossing them a risky business.

How to stay safe on a slope

It is necessary to move along the slope only in a group. This will make it possible for one athlete to quickly come to the rescue of the other members of the group in case of problems. It is impossible to move along the slopes with free-lying stones, especially to lean on them. Movement at night is prohibited. This can lead to injury to climbers.

Climbing is quite an interesting, but at the same time a difficult sport. To master it, you need to have a good physical form as well as special knowledge and skills. But at the same time this great way for relaxation and psychological relaxation.

FAR members receive a 10% discount on all publishing products.
The cost of publications is indicated without discounts.

The paper version of the classifier contains information as of March 31, 2013. Up-to-date information about routes and archive of descriptions can be found in the "Mountains and routes" section.

The Russian Mountaineering Federation expresses its gratitude to the team that worked on the publication of the classifier, namely: the leading expert Vladimir Shataev, the chairman of the classification commission Alexander Odintsov, the editorial and publishing group represented by Sergey Shibaev, Maria Volgina and Alexander Yurkin.

Cost: 400 rubles

"School of Mountaineering" is a textbook of the Russian Mountaineering Federation, which includes both a description of modern mountaineering techniques and general knowledge for organizing and planning an ascent.

Mountaineering School contains chapters on the history of mountaineering, the nature of mountains, meteorology, orientation, psychology, avalanche training, environmental influences, first aid, selection of equipment, trail travel, rocky, ice and snowy terrain, small group rescue, requirements for equipment and much more. The book is aimed at beginners and advanced climbers, but it will also be of interest to people who are passionate about outdoor activities in the mountains.

The cost of the allowance is 1000 rubles. FAR members receive a 10% discount.

Badges and credentials

Certificate and badge "Alpinist of Russia"

Cost: 300 r.

Cost: 500 r.

Cost: 500 r.

Cost: 300 r.

Methodological / teaching aids

The publication is intended for a wide range of climbers and mountain tourists. recommended as study guide for cadets of educational projects of the FAR - Token "Rescue in the mountains" and the Central school of mountaineering instructors.

Drawings: Ilya Gladky

Cost: 300 r. (not available)

The manual is intended primarily for instructors and leaders of climbing groups, as well as for those who are interested in the nuances of communication within a climbing team. The publication contains practical advice to resolve possible disputes that affect safe behavior man in the mountains.

Illustrations: Yulia Terentyeva

Cost: 150 r. (not available)

The manual describes the main actions carried out when working with a helicopter in mountainous areas, compiled a list of typical rescue operations and the specifics of using aviation in them, as well as information on emergency signals, types of helicopters, etc.

Specialists and experts of the HeliAction helicopter company also took part in the creation of the manual, Russian Union rescuers.

Cost: 150 r.

« The best way to survive in an avalanche is not to fall into it,” the author of the book cites the well-known postulate of avalanche safety and thus opens the first part of the publication devoted to forecasting and assessing the avalanche situation, incl. classification of avalanches, the reasons for their occurrence, descent, factors affecting the degree of avalanche danger and the methodology for its determination.

The second part of the publication is devoted to the rules of conduct in case of an accident in an avalanche, equipment and search and rescue operations. The publication is illustrated and accompanied by graphic diagrams.

Cost: 200 r. (not available)

Guides / dictionary

The publication is aimed mainly at climbers and mountaineers. different levels qualifications. The guide includes up-to-date information about the existing rock routes of the region.

Most of the Bezengi routes were prepared with the technical support of Vento.

All descriptions in the guide are illustrated with color photographs and diagrams. The publication also contains general information about the Bezengi area, about travel and living conditions at the base, contacts and more.

Cost: 350 r. (not available)

The guide provides descriptions of the most popular climbing areas of the Italian region of Valle d'Aosta - Monte Rosa, Monte Cervino (Matterhorn), Monte Bianco (Mont Blanc) and Gran Paradiso.

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The guide also contains materials on the classification of Italian routes, there are addresses and coordinates of mountain huts, shelters, tourism centers, CAI offices, emergency phone numbers, etc. The appendix contains a Russian-Italian phrase book and a large map of the Valle d`Aosta region.

Cost: 300 r.

"English-Russian / Russian-English climber's phrase book"

The English-Russian dictionary includes over 2500 words and phrases; Russian-English dictionary contains about 1700 words and phrases. Russian-English phrasebook includes about 500 phrases and sentences. Convenient and modern alphabetic navigation and a novelty - a visual dictionary! This, as well as the pocket size of the edition, makes it very convenient to use.

Cost: 500 rubles, FAR members - 10% discount.

"Mountains" - a magazine for climbers and about climbers. (not available)

The official publication of the FAR for the mountaineering community and all fans of sports and active rest in the mountains. The materials of the magazine reflect various aspects and directions of mountaineering in Russia: from the coverage of the events of the FAR to the discussion of the most pressing issues in the development of skyrunning, ski mountaineering, ice climbing and classical mountaineering.

Release frequency: 1-4 times a year

Chief Editor: Marina Sivokon

How to order?

• by email: [email protected], the subject of the letter is “Ordering publishing products”
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Payment by bank transfer:

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Confirmation of payment (copy of payment) must be sent to [email protected] website, [email protected] with an indication in the subject of the letter "Order of the publishing products of the FAR".

After payment, you can pick up in a convenient way for you either in person or use the services of transport and courier companies.

Address: Moscow, Maly Tolmachevsky lane 8/11 building 1.

Self-pickup can be paid in cash.

Today I present to your attention a mega book on mountaineering, namely "" from a series of books - " School of mountaineering»

The book leaves behind all similar publications! If you want to be a mountaineer, know all the basics (and more) about sports tourism, this is the book for you.

Suitable for everyone involved sports tourism, mountaineering, rock climbing, speleology and directly saving people in the mountains.

This is the BOMB, just download and read a little, watch and understand. I wish you a pleasant reading and mastering the material, I personally read it.

Name: " To help the climbing instructor»

Format: PDF
Pages: 245

Quote from the book:

The preparation of this version of the manual is based on the publication of the book “For the Instructor
mountaineering”, which in 2001 received the recommendation of the State Committee
Russian Federation for physical education, sports and tourism as an educational
allowances for students of higher professional educational institutions of physical
culture.

The work used the development of leading instructors-methodologists and trainers in
mountaineering; abstracts of the participants of the 1st International Conference "Actual
problems and issues of training specialists in mountain views sports" (Moscow),
excerpts from the speeches of leading athletes and mountaineering coaches in
periodicals. The opinion of leaders was taken into account

Part one
Training mountaineering

• (P.P. Zakharov, with the participation of: S.A. Shibaev, B.L. Rukodelnikova, E.V. Kuznetsova, M.E.
• Volkov)
• The role of the instructor in the training of climbers
• (P.P. Zakharov, with the participation of B.L. Rukodelnikov)
• Instructor? Guide? Conductor? Porter?
• (A.A. Gerasimov, with the participation of: Yu.S. Emelianenko, P.P. Zakharova)
• Safety and Reliability Principles
• (A.I. Martynov)
• Safety training
• (P.P. Zakharov)
• Safety of the educational process
• (P.P. Zakharov, with the participation of: B.L. Rukodelnikova, E.V. Gerasimova, Ya.V. Dyachenko)
• insurance training
• (P.P. Zakharov)
• Tactics training
• (P.P. Zakharov, I.A. and A.I. Martynov)

Part two

• Initial training for the badge "Alpinist of Russia" (NP-1)
• Means and methods of insurance
• Rock climbing (individual technique and insurance)
• Walking on rocks in bundles and insurance
• (individual technique and combinations)
• Walking on trails, grassy slopes, screes and moraines
• Crossing the mountain rivers
• Organization of bivouacs during high-altitude hikes and ascents
• First aid and transportation of the victim

Initial training (NP-2) -

• (fulfillment of the norms of the 3rd sports category)
• Belay techniques (work on a belay stand)
• (individual technique and combinations)
• Snow driving and insurance
• (individual technique and combinations)
• Ice travel and insurance
  (individual technique and combinations)
• Transportation of the victim
  improvised means on mountainous terrain
• Organization of a bivouac on a mountainous terrain
• Organization of high-mountain trips and ascents
  in the period of preparation for the badge "Alpinist of Russia"
  and fulfillment of the norms of the 3rd sports category

Part Three

• Sports training (SP) -
• fulfillment by climbers of the norms of the 2nd sports category
• (SP-1 - partial fulfillment of the norms of the 2nd sports category)
• Dynamic Belay Techniques
• (work on a safety stand)
• Technique of movement on rocks in bundles and insurance
• Snow technique and insurance
• (individual technique and combinations)
• Ice movement technique and insurance
• (individual technique and combinations)
• Transportation of the victim by improvised means
• Setting up a bivouac on snow and ice terrain
• Sports training (SP) -
• (SP-2 - fulfillment of the norms of the 2nd sports category)
• Organization of insurance and self-insurance
• Climbing and insurance
• (individual technique and combinations)
• Snow driving and insurance
• (individual technique and combinations)
• Ice travel and insurance
• (individual technique and combinations)
• Transportation of the victim on difficult terrain
• improvised means
• Avalanches
• Group actions after a breakdown
• Organization of rescue operations by a small group
• Ways to get around in the mountains alone
• Used and recommended literature

All you have left is